|05-16-2012, 07:26 PM||#64426|
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Prince George, BC Canada
2015 DR 650
We can handle it....We're Canadian
|05-16-2012, 07:42 PM||#64427|
Road Less Traveled
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Just that some of us like red wigglers, some like pink worms, and some like NIGHT CRAWLERS!
So, there will be many different suggestions, it depends a lot on the type of riding, and there what's good for one of us may not be a priorioty for someone else. Ultimately, that's why we call it customizing, you need to consider all the upgrades and choose the ones that fit you and your budget.
First get familiar with http://www.procycle.us/ and http://www.kientech.com . There are some cool parts available elsewhere, some of which can't be had from Kientech or Procycle, but these are two of the best for what they do.
Second, it's going to take a while to read all 4300+ pages and almost 65000 posts in the big DR650 thread so to make it a little easier to get started check out the DR650 index
Here are my thoughts off the top of my head...
#1 - remove the top chain roller and replace with a set screw.
#2 - evaluate the seat and decide if it will work for you.
#3 - if riding off road, look at a skid plate, hand guards, and a 14t front sprocket
#4 - if you weigh over about 180 lbs you may want to mod the suspension to your weight
#5 - decide if you want to play around with the stock carb or get an FCR or TM pumper, exhaust (aftermarket or GSXR) and open the airbox.
along the way, take your time, enjoy the bike, learn what others have done to theirs, and RIDE!
Dirtly: 2009 Suzuki DR650SE Road Sofa: 2001 Yamaha (ad)Venture 1300
Dirtlier: 1999 Suzuki DR350SE Old Sport: 1979 Suzuki GS1000E
1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (for sale) 1987 Yamaha TT600 (for sale)
|05-16-2012, 07:43 PM||#64428|
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Wilseyville, CA
My Smugmug, it's how I roll.
|05-16-2012, 08:15 PM||#64429|
Joined: May 2012
Location: SF Bay Area
Break In proceedure
So as far as breaking in what's the concensous?
Ride it hard, put it away wet has mostly worked in the past
Is there an magic milage when the motor starts 'loosening up'?
|05-16-2012, 08:29 PM||#64430|
on the road o'dreams
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
|05-16-2012, 08:53 PM||#64431|
on the road o'dreams
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
I would not be in a hurry to blow that wad of 100's burning a hole in your pocket. Slow down. Read this thread ... from the start. Check out the Index threads ... but most of all get out and ride. Most of what the DR650 needs to will become obvious after a few thousand miles.
I also do touring on my bike. It's now pushing 50K miles. The Corbin seat was one of the best things on my bike. The stock seat is NOT GOOD for touring. Top of the list.
My Ohlins shock is probably the next best thing. I've tried hard bags (GIVI E46) and three different sets of Soft bags. Soft bags are my choice if you intend to go off road.
DDM Tuning HID headlight conversion. The best $30 you will ever spend.
Once you get out on some dark roads with the stock light ... you'll understand.
Before you jump in and start buying foolish stuff you don't need, learn to do the maintenance on your bike. The DR does not need much but plenty of guys seem to screw this up badly. The Index threads are helpful for learning ins & outs of the DR.
Every possible problem or topic has been recycled here 10 times. So just start reading.
At this point an early oil/filter change is a good idea. (Not synthetic oil) Now I'd run a bit harder, going up through the gears with more authority, but not wide open to red line.
Try snapping off throttle off, letting the motor come down in RPM. Really good for break-in. REPEAT. Only run 20 minutes sessions, let cool. At 500 miles it's safe to go 100%, IMHO. Another oil change. But the BIG DR650 PISTON will not fully seat until 2000 miles or so and will put out more power and get better fuel economy as it goes.
|05-16-2012, 09:00 PM||#64432|
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
I think you can be a little more aggressive with acceleration and backing off to put a high vacuum in the cylinder cycles.
I would dump the oil within 500 k (300 m)
You get one shot at bedding the rings in,my DR took 1600 or more kms (1000m) to loosen up and not (appear) to run hot.
The piston showed some blow by at 42k and the area around the exhaust valves showed the oil had been doing some work (brown)
I wonder now if I could have run it in a little harder as I will do next time.
First mod,put a Line 7 rain jacket on the back (for the wet season)
The person who got you the billet DR650 third gear set, you're welcome.
49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
|05-16-2012, 09:42 PM||#64433|
Joined: Dec 2010
|05-16-2012, 09:46 PM||#64434|
Joined: Nov 2011
New to DR, question about used purchase...
Hey everybody. Been lurking for a long while on this site studying, getting inspired and lately researching DRs. I'm 80/20 off road guy but dig not having to truck the bike to the trail. I have a big old cool R100GS but I'm ready to have a bike that's smaller and quicker for the city. I'm also 5'8" and 155 lbs so looking for not ultra big. DR seems to be the choice and I love the way they look. Always been a dirt bike lover. Anyway, my main question is I'm looking at an '07 that's been down once. Plastics damage appears to be the only issue. There are lots of extras, IMS tank and Seat Concepts seat the two main ones. My question is what should I look for and be aware of since it's been down (low speed). Also it's got 17000 miles on it which is a little high but seems well cared for from talking to the dude. He's probably on here actually. He's been great so far. $2500. Good deal? I'm driving from the Bay to LA for it (700 miles). Dig the price or wait and get something closer, cleaner, less miles? Love the advice on here. Thanks in advance.
|05-16-2012, 10:01 PM||#64435|
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western Washington
The Suzuki dealers in the Puget Sound area (Seattle) are some lazy SOBs. I emailed everyone around the sound via Suzuki's website and only got 1 reply. The dorks at Tacoma Powersports wanted full MSRP and that set-up fee crap. Wut-wut?!
According to a recent Craigslist safari, the dealer in Everett has a '11 in stock and they're pushing the 0% as a draw. Yeah, effers, I emailed you and wanted that white one--you could'a sold it if you weren't no-answering losers.
Anyway, the local guys did okay, but I had to negotiate kind'a hard for a few hundred off. They didn't even try to offer any hardware (rack?), gear (helmet? Gloves?), or services (like my upcoming 600 miler) as a way to negotiate price and financing. Overall, "okay" was the best that I can say they did and it was the 0% that was the best deal. I think Suzuki needs to beat their dealers with a stick, actually. They've got to be losing a lot of sales. Or, maybe people put up with this to be part of the club? I dunno.
Anywho... I don't like my bike's "concrete gray" uber camoflage/anti-hi-viz look, but what'cha'gonna do? I had some reflective "slap bands" laying around and they attached well to the forks in order to get some more profile on the front. A bit geeky, but oh well. I *think* that a larger tank in black and an all-black Seat Concepts seat would give it a black-n-gray look that might not be so bad.
|05-16-2012, 10:13 PM||#64437|
here and gone....
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Taos, New Mexico
Just graduated from nursing school so I decided to treat myself to something...
Procycle always provides...
The new tank...
1. The bike is clean because I just washed it.
2. I'm OK with the seat.
3. Black is the fastest color.
|05-16-2012, 10:13 PM||#64438|
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Here's about how I'd do it:
- Xena disc-lock, Xena Claw, and 15'-30' (Lowes or Home Depot) security cable.
- Scotts stainless oil filter. I'd want it ready when I do the Motoman break-in.
- LocTited stainless setscrew to replace upper chainroller, and LocTited stainless allen screws for NSU.
- Removed safety switches and helmet lock.
- Valve-adjust toolset. (Kientech or Procycle)
- MotionPro T6 combo tire levers-24mm and 12/13mm, a Bead Buddy of some sort, and EnduroStar Trailstand.
- MotionPro chain-breaker tool.
- 2 sets of natural-rubber innertubes, bagged in talcum powder, and a patch kit.
- Pressure gauge and mtn bike pump.
- Skid with ears, and some case armor. (Procycle)
- Spare clutch/brake levers. (Procycle)
- Decent handguards.
- Braided stainless front brakehose.
- Seat Concepts kit, with height of your choosing.
- Megalock tooltube (Ebay), or tractor manual holder (Tractor Supply)
- Suzuki or Happy Trails tailrack.
- Givi or Happy Trails 55L topbox. Use an M3 plate on an extended Suzuki rack to mount a Givi.
- PacSafe 80L sack to secure your riding gear when parked. (Ebay)
- Wolfman Expedition dry saddlebags with Gen2 sideracks and Rotopax waterjug mount.
- Happy Trails touring pegs.
- Procycle lowered pivot pegs.
- Fabbed pillion-peg drop-brackets for improvised "rearset" position.
- Wolfman tankbag.
- ATV Logic tank panniers with HUGE upgraded velcro strips for tank.
- Safari tank (natural), with dual Raptor petcocks and locking cap. Don't fill it when you want less weight.
- Fabbed adjustable sidestand.
- Fully-adjustable DR-Z400E/S suspension (Ebay, classifieds), with proper-rate springs.
- 2 UNI or TwinAir airfilters and a K&N crankcase vent filter. (Procycle)
- FCR39 carb, with line filter, tuned per MXRob instructions.
- GSX-R or 'Busa muff with Kientech midpipe.
- DR250 taillight, dual-color red/white light-bolts (www.customdynmics.com), and an Al plate to mount license tag.
- Dual-filament front signals. (Ebay, newer TW200 or XT225/250 are likely donors)
- LED bulb replacements, including 3-flash red tail/brake bulb. (www.superbrightleds.com)
- Hi/Lo HID headlight and extended aiming screws. (Procycle)
- Rear signal conversion kit (www.electricalconnection.com)
- Amber LED foglights.
- TurboCity above-headlight rack. (Good for carrying tents, rods, and sleeping mats)
- CBR MOSFET regulator/rectifier conversion, with spare. (Ebay)
- Spare CDI, ignition coil, and pickup coil. (Ebay)
- Fender brace (Kientech or Procycle) and Moose dualsport front fenderpack.
- AMA membership with roadside assistance.
- Garmin weatherproof GPS for boat/moto. (WestMarine)
|05-16-2012, 10:46 PM||#64439|
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
That's an ugly looking bearing, it would have destroyed the hub. Good set of pics.
How it looks, note the 'kink' allowed by the looped ends.
There is also a visible gap between the two ends.
Tech23 suggested that they might be 'screwed' together'. This didn't seem possible: if a turnbuckle didn't have a left hand thread at one end, it would never tighten. When 'screwing' the two ends of a spring together the same thing would happen; as you twist one end, the other would follow, untwisting. I had a fork seal in the garage, so I took it apart. Sure enough, it was indeed screwed together.
This one doesn't kink because the ends are screwed together. It's also almost invisible when assembled because of the tapered fit.
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-17-2012 at 02:17 PM Reason: Added last photo
|05-16-2012, 11:02 PM||#64440|
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Milton, Wisconsin
Anyone try the scorpion trails on there DR? I have two rims now so I am going more 90/10 or 80/20 on the 17' rim.
07 DR650SE w/ FCR MX carb
01 Honda VFR800FI
73 Honda SL125
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