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Old 05-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #64711
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greener556 View Post
I'm gonna do my NSU screws this weekend hopefully.

I'm gonna order some new bolts 5x15x.8mm.

Are there any good write ups to follow??

Thanks
Although not a write-up, several good pics and info here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15
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2004 DR650: 60,653 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:07 PM   #64712
Olas
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Location: Englewood, CO
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My bike came with a Progressive 420 rear shock installed as well as the stock shock. I am currently in the process of rebuilding the stock rear shock and am looking for some input.

It has the stock, 6.5 kg/mm spring (Yellow) and Racetech recommends upping it to a 7.5 for my weight (160 lbs without gear). If I were to ride the bike 2-up every once in a while, will the 7.5 spring and heavier weight oil handle this ok?

Also, I've read that 10W rear shock oil is an improvement for riders that want to ride a little on the aggressive side and that it may be to harsh for regular road/dirt road conditions. True? This is with the stock valving.

Anyone here that has done these changes to the stock rear shock please speak up and let me know what your weight and style of riding is and how it improved the ride (if at all).

Also, does the seal head need to be replaced if it's taken out? It was not leaking before I took the shock apart. I will need to replace the shock bumper, mine is falling apart.

I never rode the bike with the stock shock, so I can't say how it handled with it. Since it is off the bike now, I figured I'd take the time to go through it and have it handy and maybe try it out and compare it to the 420 that's on there now, which has a rebound and preload adjustment but no compression adjustment.
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:35 PM   #64713
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northeaster View Post
When I just tried to do this maintenance procedure on a new to me '98 I snapped the whole deal off, and now have a hole in the muffler where the lower plug was. Can I run it like this? or should I have a nut welded on and plug it back up? Quite a bit of exhaust is blowing out the hole.
Mine was missing one day. I think a rock may have hit it and broke it off. I just epoxied it shut. That was a year ago and no trouble so far.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:17 PM   #64714
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
My bike came with a Progressive 420 rear shock installed as well as the stock shock. I am currently in the process of rebuilding the stock rear shock and am looking for some input.

It has the stock, 6.5 kg/mm spring (Yellow) and Racetech recommends upping it to a 7.5 for my weight (160 lbs without gear). If I were to ride the bike 2-up every once in a while, will the 7.5 spring and heavier weight oil handle this ok?
I'm 180 in street clothes and I'm still using the stock spring on my Cogent and it's at its limit (with a 17 lb tailbag). But the stock bike has buddy pegs, so Suzuki thinks the 6.5 ok for 2-up, I can live with that. The 7.5 can only make things better for two-up. If I was 20lbs lighter, the stock 6.5 would be even better. My point: suspend the bike for how you usually ride it (solo?), then slow down with a pillion. If you usually ride aggressively and/or are chasing KTM and Husky riders, the 7.5 with real damping will help control the DR's 366 pound weight.

Quote:
Also, I've read that 10W rear shock oil is an improvement for riders that want to ride a little on the aggressive side and that it may be to harsh for regular road/dirt road conditions. True? This is with the stock valving.
I think the stock shock has too many limitations. A heavier spring will overload the damping, the stock spring can't handle the DR's weight in the aggressive bumpy sections. I've had the Cogent with rebound for about 20k miles now and even though I squealed like a little girl when I paid for it , I've been happy since then. I couldn't see spending $500 without getting the rebound adjustment.

Quote:
Anyone here that has done these changes to the stock rear shock please speak up and let me know what your weight and style of riding is and how it improved the ride (if at all).
I can ride quickly but the DR is too heavy for anything rougher than Rollins Pass, aggressively. IMO

Quote:
Also, does the seal head need to be replaced if it's taken out? It was not leaking before I took the shock apart.
I don't know. Maybe a Procycle gold valve kit?

Quote:
I never rode the bike with the stock shock, so I can't say how it handled with it. Since it is off the bike now, I figured I'd take the time to go through it and have it handy and maybe try it out and compare it to the 420 that's on there now, which has a rebound and preload adjustment but no compression adjustment.
One vote for save your money, send the stock shock to Cogent and live happily ever after. The big question is 'how good is the 420 you already have?' It may be comparable to the Cogent, then that would be a waste of your money.
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2004 DR650: 60,653 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:32 PM   #64715
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinairflyer View Post
A few months ago I ordered the Seat Concepts seat kit for my '02 DR650 and asked for the foam to be a little softer than standard as I only weigh 130 lbs. and am 72 years old so my old rear end is not as tough as it once was.... and I ride some pretty long rides on the DR.
72 and still riding a DR!! I have another 8 years. I'm learning about that skinny ole butt syndrome, a 1/4" of body tissue between my pelvis and the 'very firm' Corbin.

Quote:
After riding the suggested 500 miles to break in the seat it was still somewhat firmer than I needed. All it took was one email to Robert at Seat Concepts to get the reply 'send the foam back, we'll fix it'. The new foam, a little softer, was received and it is almost perfect now, I'm sure it will be just exactly right after 500 miles or so.

My 185 lb. buddy also bought the kit for his DR650 and it was perfect for him as delivered.

The foam is quality and the cover is quality with double stitched seams. Easy to install and fits perfectly. I also bought a seat kit for my KLR250 and it is a great upgrade from the stock seat also.

Give these guys a try if your seat is not what you want. www.seatconcepts.com

L D 'Thinairflyer'
Thanks for the great info for us 'more mature riders'.
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2004 DR650: 60,653 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:35 PM   #64716
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I use a hair drier and heat the boot before install.
Wow, 40 years I've been working on bikes, why didn't I think of that. That's why I read this thread. Never know what's up next. Thanks
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2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:55 PM   #64717
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
BTW,
In regards to the NSU job,
even though I cleaned my threads before locktiteing them and I left my cover off overnight before buttoning her up and adding oil, I wanted to try a little experiment.
I took 2 bolts and 2 nuts.
(1) I sprayed down with WD40 and dipped in oil. I then applied Locktite and threaded the nut and put it on my bench.
The 2nd, I went a step further and dipped the bolt and nut in motor oil, applied Locktite, threaded the nut but this one I submerged in motor oil.

Next day, I went into the lab too see the results of my half assed experiment

Result:
I could not remove either nut without higher then normal force. Meaning the locktite still cured and held the nuts believe it or nut. I still gottem. No way they are coming off without a wrench and a socket.

So for all you "ham fisters" out there........I suppose you can sleep a little better now
Thanks for that info. I always figured that oil would destroy the loctite and it wouldn't help. This makes it easier to sleep at night, not worrying if I got every last drop of oil out before reassembly.
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2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:55 PM   #64718
ScottDill
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Location: Ontario
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Yeehaaa

I just came across this picture of me from 2010 "screaming" across the Makgadikgadi Pan in Botswana. I thought the DR fraternity might appreciate......


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Old 05-22-2012, 03:01 PM   #64719
JMR
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 44
New Acerbis tank

Shes almost tricked out the way I want her. Latest addition is the new Acerbis tank (5.2 gal to near the top). First trip was out the pony express trail. We camped under the eclipse:



So far so good with the new tank. Perfect fit with the stock seat.

I like it!
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:05 PM   #64720
Afry
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Location: Ramona, Ca
Oddometer: 534
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinairflyer View Post
A few months ago I ordered the Seat Concepts seat kit for my '02 DR650 and asked for the foam to be a little softer than standard as I only weigh 130 lbs. and am 72 years old so my old rear end is not as tough as it once was.... and I ride some pretty long rides on the DR.

After riding the suggested 500 miles to break in the seat it was still somewhat firmer than I needed. All it took was one email to Robert at Seat Concepts to get the reply 'send the foam back, we'll fix it'. The new foam, a little softer, was received and it is almost perfect now, I'm sure it will be just exactly right after 500 miles or so.

My 185 lb. buddy also bought the kit for his DR650 and it was perfect for him as delivered.

The foam is quality and the cover is quality with double stitched seams. Easy to install and fits perfectly. I also bought a seat kit for my KLR250 and it is a great upgrade from the stock seat also.

Give these guys a try if your seat is not what you want. www.seatconcepts.com

L D 'Thinairflyer'
Seat Concepts products and the people behind them are the best in the business. I went to their shop and watched as they installed my klr seat. They treat you like long time friends and the seat is one of the best mods I did.

I am now about to take my DR seat there but this time I'm getting the gripper cover as this project bike is a little more dirt orientated.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:13 PM   #64721
fizzerfz1
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Location: Woosta county, MA
Oddometer: 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post

So here's the question. How much more of an improvement will I see if I drop the coin on a new TM40 pumper from Uncle Jesse? Will the pumper work ok w/ the stock exhaust or do I need to budget an additonal bit of jingle for a GSXR can and midpipe?

I understand this is a fairly subjective question, but given the combined experience on this thread, I'll take subjective answers and make up my mind from there.

Thanks......
Here's my experience, I initially did the DJ kit and was happy with it for a couple years, then when I put in the FCR39, which as you may already know is very close to the TM40, the difference was incredible...

Stock carb --

DJ Kit --

FCR39 --
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:18 PM   #64722
Mambo Dave
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Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:20 PM   #64723
Richguzzi
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Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 63
Looking for a frame for crashed DR


Here's another frame I just saw.... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/3020877155.html

Richguzzi screwed with this post 05-22-2012 at 03:21 PM Reason: Adding info
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:23 PM   #64724
suguzzi
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Location: Kenilworth, UT
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Tube sizes

Does anybody know the different size tubes that will work in the 120 or 130 17" rear? I have been trying to buy a spare for a trip to Alaska next month and having a hard time finding of the logical sizing. Have looked at several sites as well as calling Janet and Jessy to no avail. Any one know some alternate sizes that will work with no problems? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:25 PM   #64725
fizzerfz1
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Location: Woosta county, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!
Have you tried loc-tite? Is that not for preventing the bolts from vibrating off?

I feel that the safety wire is like wearing the second underwear over your pants. Maybe necessary for the airplanes and some other purposes, not necessary for the DR, if you wear the first underwear under your pants (loctite).

YMMV as always
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