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Old 05-22-2012, 05:09 PM   #64726
jon_l
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suguzzi View Post
Does anybody know the different size tubes that will work in the 120 or 130 17" rear? I have been trying to buy a spare for a trip to Alaska next month and having a hard time finding of the logical sizing. Have looked at several sites as well as calling Janet and Jessy to no avail. Any one know some alternate sizes that will work with no problems? Thanks in advance.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...cle-Tube/TUBES
Bridgestone Heavy Duty Motorcycle Tube 110/100x18
Part# 1002890002
Our price: $24.99
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:13 PM   #64727
suguzzi
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Kenilworth, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...cle-Tube/TUBES
Bridgestone Heavy Duty Motorcycle Tube 110/100x18
Part# 1002890002
Our price: $24.99
Rocky MT, bought out our local multi- Jap bike dealer and I went there this morning and they did have the 21" but did not have anything close for the rear, did not know the 18 would work. Thanks, all taken care of now. Got to love this forum.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:24 PM   #64728
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
And that's not the standard swingarm?
At the time 2003.
1998 TL1000S
2002 GSXR 1000 front end with Ducati 996 wheel.
2002 996 SSSA with its wheel and TL1000R Ohlins shock.

The frame lugs needed cutting which I did and then machined a lapping mandrel so they were perpendicular to the pivot.

Way off topic of DR's but in the line of anything will fit if you want it to.
Measurements are a good start.



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49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:33 PM   #64729
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
At the time 2003.

Way off topic of DR's but in the line of anything will fit if you want it to.
Measurements are a good start.
Nice work!

Measurements. In one of my lives I am/was a surveyor and did lots of precise measurements setting up hydro turbines and shafts and measuring movements of dams and other major civil structures. Measurements, interesting stuff.

Steve
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:43 PM   #64730
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post
Here's my experience, I initially did the DJ kit and was happy with it for a couple years, then when I put in the FCR39, which as you may already know is very close to the TM40, the difference was incredible...

Stock carb --

DJ Kit --

FCR39 --
+1,000,000,000,000

The FCR is amazing to me, FINALLY, a dual sport with the throttle response I've been missing! Reminds me of my old TT500/600 or my KTMs. I've been unhappy (and didn't know why) with my DRZ400, DR350, and my first DR650 before installing the FCR on my second DR650. The finess of the Keihin FCR is worth every penny it cost me.

I rode the first big group ds ride this weekend on the DR since installing the FCR and you couldn't get the grin off my face with a belt sander. Smooth as an electric motor, throttle control to lift the front wheel over ruts and roots, and power wheelies all day long! Got asked by other riders what I had done to my DR to make the front come up so easily. FCR Carb and 14 tooth CS are a great combo!

The best thing though is the throttle response from idle, such smooth, instant power delivery, if I wanted to I could stay in 2nd and 3rd gear as I slowed for switchbacks and then just roll on the throttle, no need to downshift unless I wanted to.
Thank You! MXRob for all your efforts getting the FCR dialed in for the big DR!
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GaThumper screwed with this post 05-22-2012 at 05:49 PM
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:50 PM   #64731
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!
When I was doing track days with the GSXR I used one of these for safty wire. Bikemaster drill guide:




Overkill for the DR in my opinion. Just use some blue loctite. Or if you never want to take it apart again without a propane burner... use the red or green.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:54 PM   #64732
ADV8
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!
What bolt on the DR would not stay put with a dab of blue Loctite ?
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The person who got you the billet DR650 third gear set, you're welcome.
49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:13 PM   #64733
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm surprised that you're finding loose bolts. The only two I had trouble with were the two holding the heat shield on the pipe by your right ankle. Are you sure you aren't thinking of yer buddy's KLR? I think I've checked my spokes a dozen times in 32k miles, only found a few that needed a little tightening. Have you been bouncing this thing off of the rev limiter for those 3k miles? (it gets buzzy up there)

I put blue Locktite on any bolts or screws I take out, for whatever reason, like farkles.

Harbor Freight has 1/16" drill bits, pack of 10, for $KLR cheap. Seems someone said to drill an allen head from both sides, not straight through. I've done it that way for 'awhile'. Make sure you start close enough to the edge so that the bit doesn't hit the solid center of the head. If it does, it will probably break when it 'turns' into the center of the head.

I drilled mine with an electric drill, bolts clamped in a vise. Gently, let the bit cut its way through. Watch your drill alignment and remember it's a 1/16" bit, just the weight of the drill will break it if you push crooked.
Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 miles a week)... maybe it's the DG exhaust, but most likely it's the revs I keep the bike at. I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

I'm willing to bet my neutral safety switch, or whatever it is, is already loose at 3k miles, and will fall apart by 5k at this rate (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?). Safety wiring may seem like overkill for some, but if I can do it well I'd rather set the bike up right.

Thanks for the harbor freight idea - I didn't think any of their bits would be any good.
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:32 PM   #64734
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Wow, 40 years I've been working on bikes, why didn't I think of that. That's why I read this thread. Never know what's up next. Thanks

The hair drier is an un-sung hero: peals stickers, softens cold rubber, dries drywall mud quickly etc. I am always finding new uses for it, I've even heard some people use it to dry their hair!
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:45 PM   #64735
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!
You must have a very unique Dr650. Not many nuts/bolts come loose on most of these bikes. Sounds like someone may have "fiddled" with your bike? Two things came loose on my bike:
1. one of the bolts on the exhaust heat shield.
2. One or two of the rack bolts. (not really part of the bike)

Nothing else has ever been found to be loose or lost ... even after 1000's of miles of washboard roads in Baja.

In most cases anything loose ... can simply be tightened up. I don't even use Loc-Tite on my fasteners ... Only on the bark buster hardware, caliper bolts, handle bar bolts ... that is about it.

Just curious ... what nuts and bolts have you lost so far?
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:48 PM   #64736
jessepitt
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[QUOTE=Mambo Dave;18745379]Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?).

No! Absolutely not! Get a street bike.
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:54 PM   #64737
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

.
You need to stick with loctite. Even safety wire will let a bolt loosen a little; it just wont come out all the way. Safety wire is used in areas like airplanes, race cars, race bikes because it can VISUALLY be inspected quickly to see if it will fall out. Also, safety wire can fail due to improper instalation. There are specific ways you must wire a bolt or you are just pissing in the wind (like using needle nose pliers).

As an engine builder and someone who has experience with both loctite and safety wire---the loctite is better it just can't be seen once the bolt is installed.
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:56 PM   #64738
AST236
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Lower Alabama
Oddometer: 1,982
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
+1,000,000,000,000

The FCR is amazing to me, FINALLY, a dual sport with the throttle response I've been missing! Reminds me of my old TT500/600 or my KTMs. I've been unhappy (and didn't know why) with my DRZ400, DR350, and my first DR650 before installing the FCR on my second DR650. The finess of the Keihin FCR is worth every penny it cost me.

I rode the first big group ds ride this weekend on the DR since installing the FCR and you couldn't get the grin off my face with a belt sander. Smooth as an electric motor, throttle control to lift the front wheel over ruts and roots, and power wheelies all day long! Got asked by other riders what I had done to my DR to make the front come up so easily. FCR Carb and 14 tooth CS are a great combo!

The best thing though is the throttle response from idle, such smooth, instant power delivery, if I wanted to I could stay in 2nd and 3rd gear as I slowed for switchbacks and then just roll on the throttle, no need to downshift unless I wanted to.
Thank You! MXRob for all your efforts getting the FCR dialed in for the big DR!

That's what I was looking for. Thanks
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:16 PM   #64739
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 miles a week)... maybe it's the DG exhaust, but most likely it's the revs I keep the bike at. I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

I'm willing to bet my neutral safety switch, or whatever it is, is already loose at 3k miles, and will fall apart by 5k at this rate (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?). Safety wiring may seem like overkill for some, but if I can do it well I'd rather set the bike up right.

Thanks for the harbor freight idea - I didn't think any of their bits would be any good.
That's a fast pace for the DR650. Traffic flow must have picked up from when I lived there in the early 1990's. I lived in West Palm and commuted down to all the beach towns ... even as far as Miami some days. Average pace then was about 70 to 75 mph. Not much enforcement.

The startling thing I remember riding that freeway was the kids who would
suddenly hop the barrier and bolt across five lanes of high speed traffic. One kid jumped RIGHT in front of me (I was on my old XL600R in the fast lane) I missed him by two feet. Locals said it was Crack dealers. Whacko!

Going up to Daytona once in a while I noticed the pace picked up to about 80 mph. If you're going 95 mph you need a sport tourer. Buy a used Vstrom or Bandit 1200, older Ninja 1000, or any number of freeway cruisers. My DL1000 Vstrom could cruise at 90 mph all day and never even break a sweat. Just 5000 RPM at measured 92 mph. (overdrive 6th gear),
45 mpg.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #64740
Olas
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Englewood, CO
Oddometer: 3,953
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm 180 in street clothes and I'm still using the stock spring on my Cogent and it's at its limit (with a 17 lb tailbag). But the stock bike has buddy pegs, so Suzuki thinks the 6.5 ok for 2-up, I can live with that. The 7.5 can only make things better for two-up. If I was 20lbs lighter, the stock 6.5 would be even better. My point: suspend the bike for how you usually ride it (solo?), then slow down with a pillion. If you usually ride aggressively and/or are chasing KTM and Husky riders, the 7.5 with real damping will help control the DR's 366 pound weight.

I think the stock shock has too many limitations. A heavier spring will overload the damping, the stock spring can't handle the DR's weight in the aggressive bumpy sections. I've had the Cogent with rebound for about 20k miles now and even though I squealed like a little girl when I paid for it , I've been happy since then. I couldn't see spending $500 without getting the rebound adjustment.

I can ride quickly but the DR is too heavy for anything rougher than Rollins Pass, aggressively. IMO

I don't know. Maybe a Procycle gold valve kit?

One vote for save your money, send the stock shock to Cogent and live happily ever after. The big question is 'how good is the 420 you already have?' It may be comparable to the Cogent, then that would be a waste of your money.
Thank you for the response! I appreciate the suggestions. Maybe we should meet for a ride someday and trade DRs for a few miles...You can try out my DR outfitted with the 420... Of course, we are of different weights but not by much.
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