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Old 05-25-2012, 07:19 PM   #64921
opium89
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Hi folks,

I just brought home a 2000 DR650 with 15000 on the clock. The person I purchased it from said the owner before him had "replaced the front forks". My question is, what did he replace them with? Any easy way to tell if these are stock forks? They're awfully squishy, which indicates to me they are probably stock sticks. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:06 PM   #64922
TrophyHunter
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Pics would help. And Congrats.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:18 PM   #64923
SprintST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Good evaluation. If I didn't want the low end control in the technical stuff, I'd have stayed with the stocker and some simple mods. I ask my DR to do some crazy stuff sometimes and it helps to have the FCR / TM40.

If you listen carefully, I almost stall it a couple of times even with the FCR, 14 tooth and other mods. Sorry for the repeat for some here and to all for the clicking - needed the rubber holder on my GoPro.



Click the pic ^^^^^^^^ Getting started again was easier with the pumper, too. Not to say this can't be done with the stock carb at all....just preference.
I've ridden TrohpyHunter's DR and it was a totally different beast than my stocker. Smooth, responsive and lots of low end power.

Me thinks that kind of off-road travel might be a little on the challenging side for me.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:35 PM   #64924
Mambo Dave
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How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:45 PM   #64925
notarat
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Did some wrenching on my 2012 DR650 this afternoon after work.

Mainly, did the first oil change with new filter and checked the NSU.

After draining the oil and loosening up the Ricochet Bash Plate, I removed the bolts holding the clutch cover on the bike.

Then I removed the bolts connecting the oil lines to the clutch cover

Located the two flat tabs that are used to pry the cover off the engine and it came off with zero issues. The gasket was perfect so I decided I'd reuse it


I checked the NSU and the lower, easier to access bolt was quiet snug.

The top one, however, was already loose and backed out about an eighth of an inch! (I have less than 550mi on this bike)

So...looks like the problem still affects the 2012s even with the use of an hex socketed bolt.

I took a normal 4mm hex key and put it into the vise and cut it quiet short in order to slide it behind the clutch. Man that was a pain in the ass backing that bolt out the rest of the way...

Once I removed it, I applied loctite blue, and reinstalled it, and snugged it down very well.

Then I repeated the process for the other hex bolt

when it came time to reassemble the bike, I ran into a problem and I'm hoping I can get some assistance resolving it because I haven't been successful searching for an answer.

The banjo bolt that secures the oil line that enters the clutch cover on top, near the filler...I can't seem to get the hole in the banjo bolt to line up with the hole in the banjo collar on the oil line.

It's 180 off.

At finger-tight, the banjo bolt hole is 90 past the oil line collar's hole.
Snugged down to recommended torque, it's 180 off.
If I were to try to tighten the shit outta it, it'd still be 90 off

(Crude example of what I'm talking about)


Can I get some assistance on how to handle this issue? (If it is an issue, at all, though I do believe it is a major one)
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:50 PM   #64926
ER70S-2
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Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-25-2012 at 09:12 PM
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:01 PM   #64927
doug s.
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carbs...

when i got my bike, it had an aftermarket yoshimura can on it. the airbox was opened up; i can only imagine the carb was properly set up, cuz the bike ran fine. no hesitation, surging, etc. but, i wanted to put the better carb on it, so i found an fcr39 off ebay, already set-up for a dr650, including merge racing spring. i guess i got lucky, cuz i paid ~$130 shipped. and, it was plug-n-play, already set up for open airbox and aftermarket exhaust. i also added the gsxr-style muffler, hi-flow fmf powerbomb header and hi-flow kientech midpipe. the bike positively rips, now. and i am getting 45-50mpg. my bike has a 16t front sprocket, but w/smaller diameter rear tire, (150-60-17), the gearing is almost identical to stock. you have to be careful not to lift the front wheel when accelerating hard...

i know there's folks that are fine w/the stock carb, and my old set up also worked fine. but the improvement is really nice, and i have read so many stories of people having problems w/the stock carb, and so many stories of those who upgraded their carbs even after modding the stockers, and getting great results. i think it is a no brainer upgrade...

ymmv,

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Old 05-25-2012, 09:27 PM   #64928
notarat
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QUOTE=ER70S-2;18769666]Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens. [/QUOTE]

It was well past sunset when I reached that point of the re-assembly so it would seem I missed that fact.

That's definitely great news to hear! Thanks for the info!

I think I can unclench my sphincter now.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:30 PM   #64929
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
dunno the carb pricing for buying new...

re: the way you use your bike, an fcr39 will be great - my bike runs great at 80-85 and pulls strong to 100. it might pull past that, but i backed off... and this is pretty accurate, w/trail-tech speedo, not stock speedo...

check mxrob's info about the fcr carbies:
http://mxrob.com/mxrob_007.htm

https://docs.google.com/present/view...R0MmpjbQ&hl=en

doug s.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:31 PM   #64930
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
How much is a FCR from MxRob? I looked at his website and don't see prices.

I fully understand the argument about low-end power and the DR, yet I run mine at high revs for sustained highway high-speeds, so maybe that smaller 39mm carb would be counter-productive for the every-day way I use the bike right now.
It'll handle highway running just fine. It just really smooths out the running at low revs, and improves throttle response everywhere.

You pretty much have to find your own FCR39, but if you contact him, he may set one up for you.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:43 PM   #64931
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:


I had originally replied, "That's definitely great news to hear! Thanks for the info, but don't think I've forgiven your ass for linking that damn rotor", but I deleted that last bit from my reply because I didn't want to stir up shit.

You fucking bastard.

Only reason I haven't ordered one already is because I was afraid it wouldn't fit with my Maire rotor protector...

That looks sweet as hell though.

Congrats! <-- with envy
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:48 PM   #64932
ER70S-2
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:51 PM   #64933
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
I've ridden TrohpyHunter's DR and it was a totally different beast than my stocker. Smooth, responsive and lots of low end power.

Me thinks that kind of off-road travel might be a little on the challenging side for me.
Yep, the DR does it all quite nicely.
3 DR's an XR and an 1150GS in our little group...
http://youtu.be/aw4-ZQyOK0g?hd=1&t=8m3s

Includes my first ever ride on an 1150
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:06 PM   #64934
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Pics would help. And Congrats.
Try these...sorry the garage is a little cramped at the moment! Best I can tell these look to be stock. Then again, what do I know?







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Old 05-25-2012, 10:24 PM   #64935
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Hi folks,

I just brought home a 2000 DR650 with 15000 on the clock. The person I purchased it from said the owner before him had "replaced the front forks". My question is, what did he replace them with? Any easy way to tell if these are stock forks? They're awfully squishy, which indicates to me they are probably stock sticks. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!
Those are stock forks. The fork gaiters should be slid up to the bottom triple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Yep, the DR does it all quite nicely.
3 DR's an XR and an 1150GS in our little group...
http://youtu.be/aw4-ZQyOK0g?hd=1&t=8m3s

Includes my first ever ride on an 1150
DAMN!!! There's sum rokz.

There are also ample opportunities to make a mistake that would ruin yer whole week!!!

Rockin' good tunes, too.
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2004 DR650: 61,382 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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