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Old 05-26-2012, 12:01 AM   #64921
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Also, the FCR usually costs more than a TM for no gain.
The FCR has an air-cut valve that reduces decel popping with a free-flowing exhaust. It's moving parts are also protected better against mud and grime.
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:31 AM   #64922
996DL
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Opened airbox per Jesse specs, unmodified oem exhaust, Dynojet kit with Jesse's suggestion of 155 DJ mainjet for said exhaust, Kientech extended fuel screw aprox. 1 1/4 turns out, drilled slide and most importantly DJ needle's clip leaned to 3 down from the top, to TOTALLY eliminate the rich off idle flat spot, at 2200' asl elevation.

Two identical bikes (07 & 08) set up this way (skipped drilling the slide on the second and retained backfire screen as well), both run great with excellent gas mileage figures and I look forward to grabbing a couple of inexpensive, discarded low mileage BST40's somewhere down the road, for high mileage replacements.

Financial advantages over FCR and TM40 alternatives, priceless.

Each to their own, but horror stories of rejetted BST40's, is so fucking amusing.

996DL
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Old 05-26-2012, 01:18 AM   #64923
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Opened airbox per Jesse specs, unmodified oem exhaust, Dynojet kit with Jesse's suggestion of 155 DJ mainjet for said exhaust, Kientech extended fuel screw aprox. 1 1/4 turns out, drilled slide and most importantly DJ needle's clip leaned to 3 down from the top, to TOTALLY eliminate the rich off idle flat spot, at 2200' asl elevation.

Two identical bikes (07 & 08) set up this way (skipped drilling the slide on the second and retained backfire screen as well), both run great with excellent gas mileage figures and I look forward to grabbing a couple of inexpensive, discarded low mileage BST40's somewhere down the road, for high mileage replacements.

Financial advantages over FCR and TM40 alternatives, priceless.

Each to their own, but horror stories of rejetted BST40's, is so fucking amusing.

996DL
yust don't ever ride a dr650 w/a properly set up tm40 or fcr39 carb, and you will remain happy. my bike ran fine w/the stock carb. but now, it really runs great...

doug s.
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Old 05-26-2012, 01:36 AM   #64924
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
yust don't ever ride a dr650 w/a properly set up tm40 or fcr39 carb, and you will remain happy. my bike ran fine w/the stock carb. but now, it really runs great...

doug s.

Some people like that rubber band throttle cable feeling. It keeps things from happening too quickly.

Tech23
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:17 AM   #64925
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
DAMN!!! There's sum rokz.

There are also ample opportunities to make a mistake that would ruin yer whole week!!!

Rockin' good tunes, too.
The 1150 rider put his foot down at the wrong time and the rock moved...
Torn muscles up the back of his leg.
That's why I got to ride the 1150...
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:29 AM   #64926
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XPLRN View Post
The reason I put the asterisks around the word *round* in all the above verbage is that Suzuki designed it that way......using round rubber bushings that seat up against round stand-offs from the frame to reduce vibration to the operator's feet. As stated above they could have saved A LOT of money over this 16+ year production run if they would have just eliminated the vibration dampening feature of the operator foot peg

PS..........my bike was the test bike for the prototyping of these drop brackets so that is why I have the above info.
Even with flush mounting against the plates, the tip of the footpeg moves about 5-10mm.

I even used a large washer on the outside to try to reduce the movement.
The washers just bent.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:01 AM   #64927
Potosi Joe
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I like this idea. I was very disappointed to find dust in the carb hose with my new filter. Thanks Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This is mostly a repeat post on my part, for those keeping track.

I don't care for the K&N style air filters, but at least this one has some surface area compared to the dry POS that comes stock. If you're going to use one of these, at least use the lube designed for them.

I thought I'd put this in Krusty's DR650 Index, but I haven't, so I can't post a link. It's another one of those I'm going to have to finish tomorrow. I'm runnin' outta daylite.

Quickie:
For those with a memory, it was the one with Rusty Rocket's idea of using a Briggs & Stratton lawnmower filter.

The anemic little stocker is on the right (and it's swollen, I had just cleaned it in gas). It was dry and scary dusty.





How to get the stock one out to clean, oil, re-install. Put the plastic clip back in, then push the oiled Briggs in on top.




With Rusty's idea, shown here, completely neglected , there was no dust in the rubber tube. You can see where the sludge was flaking off, exposing fresh, oiled filter surface area.
Just like the original Filtron foam filter was designed to do. Oops, mighta dated myself a bit there.



More better:
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:52 AM   #64928
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Long Distance Gearing?

Month from today leaving on a 2500 mile trip, will be nearly all on-road as couple guys coming along are taking street bikes/cruisers.

I'll have my DR650 on supermoto wheels and currently running a 14/43 gearing which is real fun around town but pretty rev happy for 60mph (~4300 rpm). How would switching to 16/42 be for the trip? We don't really plan on taking freeways but mainly back roads and small highways were we will average about 50mph or so.

I'd like to keep the revs down a bit lower to help save on fuel.

Any of you guys running the 16/42?
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:14 AM   #64929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Month from today leaving on a 2500 mile trip, will be nearly all on-road as couple guys coming along are taking street bikes/cruisers.

I'll have my DR650 on supermoto wheels and currently running a 14/43 gearing which is real fun around town but pretty rev happy for 60mph (~4300 rpm). How would switching to 16/42 be for the trip? We don't really plan on taking freeways but mainly back roads and small highways were we will average about 50mph or so.

I'd like to keep the revs down a bit lower to help save on fuel.

Any of you guys running the 16/42?
I'm about to do a 5K run and have been running 16/42 for awhile. It works well for pavement and mild dirt roads and extends the happy zone about 10mph. 70-75mph (80mph indicated) is comfortable for me on the slab and 2 lane pavement is just as much fun as with stock gearing, it just lacks some low speed grunt.

You could leave the 43T rear if the chain is long enough, mine is two notches below "2" on the adjusters with a 12k mile chain.

Good luck.
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:28 AM   #64930
gregdee
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acerbis 5.3 gal tank install

Please help! I get the impression this must be obvious because no one is discussing it. We just received an new 5.3 gal tank for the wife's DR and we're trying to install it. But I can't figure out what to do with the other line that goes over to the output side of the carb. The petcock that came with the tank only has a single connection while the stock one has two. Do I use the stock petcock?
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:32 AM   #64931
Olas
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Originally Posted by gregdee View Post
Please help! I get the impression this must be obvious because no one is discussing it. We just received an new 5.3 gal tank for the wife's DR and we're trying to install it. But I can't figure out what to do with the other line that goes over to the output side of the carb. The petcock that came with the tank only has a single connection while the stock one has two. Do I use the stock petcock?
Plug it and hide it somewhere...It's not needed unless you're using the stock vacuum operated petcock.
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:35 AM   #64932
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Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Plug it and hide it somewhere...It's not needed unless you're using the stock vacuum operated petcock.
So, fold it over and put a zip tie or piece of wire around it?
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:51 AM   #64933
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Those are stock forks. The fork gaiters should be slid up to the bottom triple.

DAMN!!! There's sum rokz.

There are also ample opportunities to make a mistake that would ruin yer whole week!!!

Rockin' good tunes, too.
As suspected, thanks for the info!
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:02 AM   #64934
Olas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregdee View Post
So, fold it over and put a zip tie or piece of wire around it?
I took the hose off and used a plug from the auto parts store to plug the outlet on the carb.

You could also stick a bolt in the hose and then zip tie the bolt to secure it.

Folding it over might work, but with heat and time it might create a leak where it was folded over as the rubber cracks.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:30 AM   #64935
zdiver1
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Rubber hose?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Look at the fitting closer, there's a groove cut the full diameter. It doesn't matter where the bolt tightens.
Really sorry to hear the one NSU was already backing out.

OBTW:


However, it comes with this:

spend all that money on that cool disk and no SS hose.
I would imagine the big disk with the rubber hose is equal to a stock disk with stainless steel hose in braking power.

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-26-2012 at 10:19 AM
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