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Old 05-27-2012, 01:15 AM   #64981
Eddieb
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: The Tron, New Zealand
Oddometer: 945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
The Galfer SS brake hose I mounted was (like most SS brake hoses) a smaller outside diameter than the stock rubber hose. I took a short section of fuel line, cut a slit in it and wrapped it around the SS brake hose so that the factory clamp would grip the SS brake hose just as tight (maybe slightly tighter) as the factory rubber brake hose. I routed the SS brake hose inside the fork slider like it came from the factory without any issues. I do have the stock size front brake rotor. The brake hose hasn't moved in the clamp at all.
I did the same except with a couple of rounds of electrical tape, the clamp grips fine and hasn't slipped since.
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:22 AM   #64982
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
I had the same rotor set up, I ran the line on the outside of the fork with no issue.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=789569
Good to see your still playing on the Dr650 thread my dude. Congrats on the Triumph, I'm jealous!
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:35 AM   #64983
Weldman
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Can't remember what size I'm running on back at the

moment w/out running out to the garage to check (I'm in a hammock drinking coffee and I ain't gettin' up yet)
but yeah the 244's I'm running front and rear felt squirrelly as hell for about a week until I got used to them. I think all
knobbies and semi-knobbies feel that way for awhile when you've been used to road-biased tires. I felt the same thing when I went from Michelin Anakees to MT61s on my KLR. I think it's a perceptual thing ...

I love my 244's on the DR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I spent a week trying to get used to this shinko 244 5.10-17 on the rear of my DR and man, that thing is squirelly. Gravel, and asphalt, the rear just never seems planted. I usually run a Shinko 705 or a Heindenau K60 on the rear, and a K60 on the front. Anyone knows if this is normal, or is the size of the tire making my steering seem weird? I did notice that the 244 seems to make my bike seem taller.
Thanks,
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:50 AM   #64984
TrophyHunter
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Tech23 & eddieb - thx. I looked at that solution and didn't know if it would mildly crush the line. That's answered now and I'll make the better mod.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:25 AM   #64985
mr. matteeanne
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Dualsport Paradise, Olympics
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Considering trying the DR (Have DRZ 400)
Are all DR's air cooled? Do the die easily? Hows the stator? Can it support heated gear?
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:05 AM   #64986
vicster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I know the common thought is that the stock carb sucks- so here's just a little balance: I've ridden (happily) 44,000 miles from sea level to 14,000 feet, with a completely stock carb and airbox and never had it stumble, surge, miss or otherwise misbehave. Totally reliable.

Some might say that I don't know what I'm missing and that could be true. Ignorance (and no carb problems) is bliss.

.............shu
I know I wish I'd just left mine the hell alone. I had a little lean surge, at sea level at colder temp's, so I opted for the PC jet kit. Followed instructions cutting the air box, etc. Waaayyy too lean no matter needle position, so I started blocking the air box back off with duct tape. Finally have it running OK, but am only getting 44mpg where before it never dropped below 50mpg. My advice would be either do no more to the stock than remove the brass plug or replace the whole carb. IMHO
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:37 AM   #64987
gone fishing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicster View Post
I know I wish I'd just left mine the hell alone. I had a little lean surge, at sea level at colder temp's, so I opted for the PC jet kit. Followed instructions cutting the air box, etc. Waaayyy too lean no matter needle position, so I started blocking the air box back off with duct tape. Finally have it running OK, but am only getting 44mpg where before it never dropped below 50mpg. My advice would be either do no more to the stock than remove the brass plug or replace the whole carb. IMHO
My two cents on carb mods. I am lucky that I have two DR's. A 97 and a 99. The 97 motor is stone stock except for a twin air filter after the stock one fell apart. All of it mods are to make it my version of the perfect commuter bike, happy trails racks, boxes, centerstand, cee bailey. I commute 15 miles one way on two lane roads and it averages right at 60 mpg. The 99 has a dynojet kit with a cut airbox and a 14 tooth front sprocket. It runs great and has a bunch more low end power than the stock 97. It gets about 44 mpg. I guess what I'm getting at is that you need to consider what your going to use it for before you start changing stuff.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:53 AM   #64988
dr_man
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Location: Edmonton, AB
Oddometer: 12
Hi I am new guy here, from AB, Canada. I have a 91 DR 650 in a showroom condition, with 3000km on her.
I have a tire change question, I am totally new to this so don't laugh.
I decided to do the tire change myself, at least the front, to see how hard it is.
It turned out to be not so bad.
Two questions,
- do you have to balance your wheel every time you change a tire?
- how to make that round pattern on a tire match exactly the curvature of the rim? (I think you guys know what I am talking about, there is a line on a tire that is supposed to be about 1/8" away from the rim and show that the tire been put on properly...) Mine dives in under the rim for 2 or 3 inches...
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:18 AM   #64989
dr_man
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Location: Edmonton, AB
Oddometer: 12
Thanks.
What are you guys using to protect rims from a damage when changing tires?
Unfortunately I scratched my rim a bit, before I cut up a shampoo bottle in a search for tough but not too thick plastic rim protectors...
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:19 AM   #64990
dr_man
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Location: Edmonton, AB
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Another newbie question...
How do you lower DR 650?
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:21 AM   #64991
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Like Numbers said, unseat, lube well, inflate. I've had to use tire pressures above 60 psi to get some beads to seat.

I balance most of my tires because I enjoy the garage time. That and the miles of pavement I have to ride.

You don't need anything fancy, two flat surfaces and your axle will work. I used 8" pieces of solid core solder wrapped around the spokes for a long time, some guys use crimp on fishing weights. I've recently upgraded to the set-screw type weights.

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Old 05-27-2012, 10:26 AM   #64992
ram1000
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Tricities Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_man View Post
Hi I am new guy here, from AB, Canada. I have a 91 DR 650 in a showroom condition, with 3000km on her.
I have a tire change question, I am totally new to this so don't laugh.
I decided to do the tire change myself, at least the front, to see how hard it is.
It turned out to be not so bad.
Two questions,
- do you have to balance your wheel every time you change a tire?
- how to make that round pattern on a tire match exactly the curvature of the rim? (I think you guys know what I am talking about, there is a line on a tire that is supposed to be about 1/8" away from the rim and show that the tire been put on properly...) Mine dives in under the rim for 2 or 3 inches...
I run the pressure up to 50+ lbs. to pop the bead on when it fights me, but I put soapy water or even WD40 on to help it pop out. The one precaution is to make sure your tube is not overlapping itself in the tire when you increase pressure to pop the bead on. You can dust the tube with baby powder before slipping it into the tire to help it expand without lapping itself.

Secondly I went to Texas a few years back on a new bike and the tire was worn out when I got there. Since I always change my own tires I changed it in my son-in-laws garage and didn't have any way to balance it. I tried it all the way home (2000 miles) and have stopped balancing my tires as a result of the experience. I no longer do many rides that I get over 75 or 80 mph and have not noticed any difference on my street bikes. I'm going on 8 or10 new tires now with no balancing.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:39 AM   #64993
ram1000
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Location: Tricities Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_man View Post
Another newbie question...
How do you lower DR 650?
If it is a 1996 or newer the rear shock has two mounting holes in it on the bottom of the shock. Raise the bike on a lift or even a bucket and let teh swing arm hang down. I use a car jack then to raise it just to hold the weight and take out the bolt connecting the shock to the linkage. then jack it up so that the upper hole in the shock can be bolted to the linkage. Tighten it up and your there. The manual says to turn the spring retainer upside down before reconnecting the shock but I have ridden many dirt milies with my wifes DR650 and bottomed out the shock many times with no affect so I leave it as is. If you no your going to leave it lowered you can go either way with this.

On the front you can just slide the forks up into the triple clamps. I slide them about 1 to 1.5 inches up depending on how it feels in the corners. The higher it is, in relation to the rear, the better it steers around a berm or paved corner for that matter. The manual says to take the fork apart and without going through the entire process you remove the spacer at the top of the fork and place it at the top of the dampening rod between the top out spring and the rod end. Both of these methods will lower you bike about 1 to 1.5 inches and you can get another 1.5 inches by replacing the seat with a Suzuki gel seat. Effectively lowering your bike 3 inches. From there you can even gain a little more by setting your bike with a little more sag although the better rider you are the more you will want to set it for your real riding skill and weight.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:48 AM   #64994
victor441
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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Harbor Freight sells an MC wheel balancer for $50 that works OK, bought one because I could see my front wheel hopping slightly at freeway speed and a balance fixed that...it can be used as a makeshift truing stand too. From what I've read front wheel balance is more important than rear


victor441 screwed with this post 05-27-2012 at 10:53 AM
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:12 AM   #64995
Feelers
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Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Oddometer: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. matteeanne View Post
Considering trying the DR (Have DRZ 400)
Are all DR's air cooled? Do the die easily? Hows the stator? Can it support heated gear?
All DR's are air and oil cooled.
DR's do not die easily. If you are asking about heat-induced death, I have never heard of a DR overheating. They are damn tough. They are also so simple, that 99% of problems can be fixed in short time without special tools.

The stator is as good as any other stator, but outputs only about 200W maximum at speed. If you have a heat troller, you can probably run a vest or jacket and grips; but you have to be conscious of the power draw and what all you are powering, A lot of guys install a small voltmeter to make sure they aren't overloading their charging system. There are ways to rewire the stator for more power at speed - but the cost is less power or even the battery discharging around idle.
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