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Old 05-27-2012, 09:18 AM   #64981
dr_man
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Location: Edmonton, AB
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Thanks.
What are you guys using to protect rims from a damage when changing tires?
Unfortunately I scratched my rim a bit, before I cut up a shampoo bottle in a search for tough but not too thick plastic rim protectors...
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:19 AM   #64982
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Another newbie question...
How do you lower DR 650?
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:21 AM   #64983
ER70S-2
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Like Numbers said, unseat, lube well, inflate. I've had to use tire pressures above 60 psi to get some beads to seat.

I balance most of my tires because I enjoy the garage time. That and the miles of pavement I have to ride.

You don't need anything fancy, two flat surfaces and your axle will work. I used 8" pieces of solid core solder wrapped around the spokes for a long time, some guys use crimp on fishing weights. I've recently upgraded to the set-screw type weights.

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:26 AM   #64984
ram1000
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Location: Tricities Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_man View Post
Hi I am new guy here, from AB, Canada. I have a 91 DR 650 in a showroom condition, with 3000km on her.
I have a tire change question, I am totally new to this so don't laugh.
I decided to do the tire change myself, at least the front, to see how hard it is.
It turned out to be not so bad.
Two questions,
- do you have to balance your wheel every time you change a tire?
- how to make that round pattern on a tire match exactly the curvature of the rim? (I think you guys know what I am talking about, there is a line on a tire that is supposed to be about 1/8" away from the rim and show that the tire been put on properly...) Mine dives in under the rim for 2 or 3 inches...
I run the pressure up to 50+ lbs. to pop the bead on when it fights me, but I put soapy water or even WD40 on to help it pop out. The one precaution is to make sure your tube is not overlapping itself in the tire when you increase pressure to pop the bead on. You can dust the tube with baby powder before slipping it into the tire to help it expand without lapping itself.

Secondly I went to Texas a few years back on a new bike and the tire was worn out when I got there. Since I always change my own tires I changed it in my son-in-laws garage and didn't have any way to balance it. I tried it all the way home (2000 miles) and have stopped balancing my tires as a result of the experience. I no longer do many rides that I get over 75 or 80 mph and have not noticed any difference on my street bikes. I'm going on 8 or10 new tires now with no balancing.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:39 AM   #64985
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_man View Post
Another newbie question...
How do you lower DR 650?
If it is a 1996 or newer the rear shock has two mounting holes in it on the bottom of the shock. Raise the bike on a lift or even a bucket and let teh swing arm hang down. I use a car jack then to raise it just to hold the weight and take out the bolt connecting the shock to the linkage. then jack it up so that the upper hole in the shock can be bolted to the linkage. Tighten it up and your there. The manual says to turn the spring retainer upside down before reconnecting the shock but I have ridden many dirt milies with my wifes DR650 and bottomed out the shock many times with no affect so I leave it as is. If you no your going to leave it lowered you can go either way with this.

On the front you can just slide the forks up into the triple clamps. I slide them about 1 to 1.5 inches up depending on how it feels in the corners. The higher it is, in relation to the rear, the better it steers around a berm or paved corner for that matter. The manual says to take the fork apart and without going through the entire process you remove the spacer at the top of the fork and place it at the top of the dampening rod between the top out spring and the rod end. Both of these methods will lower you bike about 1 to 1.5 inches and you can get another 1.5 inches by replacing the seat with a Suzuki gel seat. Effectively lowering your bike 3 inches. From there you can even gain a little more by setting your bike with a little more sag although the better rider you are the more you will want to set it for your real riding skill and weight.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:48 AM   #64986
victor441
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Harbor Freight sells an MC wheel balancer for $50 that works OK, bought one because I could see my front wheel hopping slightly at freeway speed and a balance fixed that...it can be used as a makeshift truing stand too. From what I've read front wheel balance is more important than rear


victor441 screwed with this post 05-27-2012 at 09:53 AM
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:12 AM   #64987
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. matteeanne View Post
Considering trying the DR (Have DRZ 400)
Are all DR's air cooled? Do the die easily? Hows the stator? Can it support heated gear?
All DR's are air and oil cooled.
DR's do not die easily. If you are asking about heat-induced death, I have never heard of a DR overheating. They are damn tough. They are also so simple, that 99% of problems can be fixed in short time without special tools.

The stator is as good as any other stator, but outputs only about 200W maximum at speed. If you have a heat troller, you can probably run a vest or jacket and grips; but you have to be conscious of the power draw and what all you are powering, A lot of guys install a small voltmeter to make sure they aren't overloading their charging system. There are ways to rewire the stator for more power at speed - but the cost is less power or even the battery discharging around idle.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:34 AM   #64988
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post
Secondly I went to Texas a few years back on a new bike and the tire was worn out when I got there. Since I always change my own tires I changed it in my son-in-laws garage and didn't have any way to balance it. I tried it all the way home (2000 miles) and have stopped balancing my tires as a result of the experience. I no longer do many rides that I get over 75 or 80 mph and have not noticed any difference on my street bikes. I'm going on 8 or10 new tires now with no balancing.
Glad to see some real experience on this. Balancing on dual sports always is debated. But it was settled for me several years ago by my friend Peter.

Peter rides an XR650R ... and a few other bikes. His day job is working on the Yosh Suzuki team for Blake Young and Martin Cardenas (both AMA Super bike guys). Peter's been at this about 15 years. His job on the crew? Suspension, wheels and tires. (among other things) Peter said his XR650R ... nor any of this other dirt or dual sport bikes ... benefit from balancing the tires. He said if speeds got up over 120 mph, you MIGHT need balancing. I've done both road and dirt rides with Peter for 10's of thousands of miles all through California, Nevada and Mexico.


Winter riding in Nevada.

Generally if the bead is fully and evenly seated all the way round and the tube not folded, then your tire should run smooth ... unless the wheel is bent or you have a faulty tire (which does happen).

You can go ahead an balance the your wheel/tire ... but I doubt you will notice much pre / post difference if all else is in good order.

I have a balancer rig and I use it on my 1050 Tiger and other street bikes. But I've never balanced tires on dual sport bikes I've owned. (XL, KLR, KTM, DR (3) ) No issues.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:37 AM   #64989
FCPB
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front fender

so i changed out the stock front fender on my '09 DR for a RM250 front fender, mainly for aesthetics but also for the more aerodynamic design (would notice the front catching air at speed sometimes). my worry though is that the RM250 fender is about 4 inches longer on the back, and though it clears just fine it obviously covers more of the air box and engine (the RM250 is liquid cooled, so it makes sense). it has a couple of vertical slits on the back for airflow, but i'm wondering if I should cut out a couple more or drill some holes out on it to let more air flow through? the stock fender has a few horizontal slits on it...

am I worrying about this needlessly?
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:41 AM   #64990
Load Clear
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Rear Axle Nut

Ok, First - I am a tool tool. Even so, adjusting the chain tension on my 2012 seems like something I can handle. The high quality Suzuki wrench and pipe for leverage is not breaking the locking nut. Only cutting into the nut (and popping mine...)

I have tried a few searches but cannot find a socket size for the nut (none I have fit). Any help and advice would be welcome.

Thanks - LC
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:48 AM   #64991
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I spent a week trying to get used to this shinko 244 5.10-17 on the rear of my DR and man, that thing is squirelly. Gravel, and asphalt, the rear just never seems planted. I usually run a Shinko 705 or a Heindenau K60 on the rear, and a K60 on the front. Anyone knows if this is normal, or is the size of the tire making my steering seem weird? I did notice that the 244 seems to make my bike seem taller.
Thanks,
I've only used the 244 front, but I have a rear here waiting. Several things at play here:
What tire are you running up front?
Is it worn out?
What pressures? (front and rear)?

I found the front 244 to move around quite a bit. It was OK off road running about 17 psi. and 20 psi on the rear (worn out) Distanzia.
With a new rear mounted I found the front 244 moved around less, still, not like a road biased tire at all.
So a worn tire can affect a brand new tire at the opposite end and vice versa.

On the 244 for street use I would try Suzuki's recommended pressures.
22 psi front, 25 psi rear. More if hauling a heavily load or pillion.
Also ... keep in mind some NEW tires are really squirrel - ly until they wear down a bit. So give them a chance. Match with a good mate up front, get pressures right, give them 500 miles. Report back!
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:50 AM   #64992
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Ok, First - I am a tool tool. Even so, adjusting the chain tension on my 2012 seems like something I can handle. The high quality Suzuki wrench and pipe for leverage is not breaking the locking nut. Only cutting into the nut (and popping mine...)

I have tried a few searches but cannot find a socket size for the nut (none I have fit). Any help and advice would be welcome.

Thanks - LC
You mean the castle-nut?

I almost never use a crescent wrench for mechanical repair, but I tried one on my new (to me) 650 castle nut and it took the nut right off (after the pin was removed). It was on there with low enough torque that I didn't feel bad about tightening it back down with the same ~13" crescent (adjustable) wrench. My best guess is 24mm.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:58 AM   #64993
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Ok, First - I am a tool tool. Even so, adjusting the chain tension on my 2012 seems like something I can handle. The high quality Suzuki wrench and pipe for leverage is not breaking the locking nut. Only cutting into the nut (and popping mine...)

I have tried a few searches but cannot find a socket size for the nut (none I have fit). Any help and advice would be welcome.

Thanks - LC
God help us. (and you mate) My advice?
BACK AWAY FROM THE BIKE .... NOW! DROP THE TOOLS!

TAKE BIKE STRAIGHT TO SHOP. DON'T STOP FOR COFFEE OR FOR ADVICE FROM UNCLE JETHRO.

P.S. I'll bet $100 the chain does NOT need adjustment!
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:00 PM   #64994
Load Clear
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Thanks

Thanks Mambo & Zdiver. Have a nice craftsman set but only up to 19mm. Mambo, it looks like the cotter pin has gone away and a locking nut is used now instead. Of course I stared at it for 20 minutes because the owner's manual was not updated.
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:02 PM   #64995
beezerjuice
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I have a 2000 model and the lean surge bugged the hell out of me. I tried a bigger pilot jet and then the Dyno Jet kit. The bigger pilot jet did nothing and with the Dyno Jet kit, the bike ran poorly, mileage when to hell and with the airbox cover off, the bike was loud.I found the simple solution--put a .025" washer under the needle base. This raises the needle to richen the mixture at just off idle and the lean surge went away. The fuel mileage went back to 50mpg.
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