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Old 05-27-2012, 06:39 PM   #65041
pirate1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Check this link. Sounds like a possibility. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/635...tch-locked-up/
That is exactly what is happening with mine, that is a great post..thanks for the help.
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:43 PM   #65042
Muni59
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Tools for the Road

Hi All,

I did a search, but didn't find what I was looking for. I have not read all of this thread.

I have a new DR650. I'm planning on my first trip (majority on pavement) and would like to know what you all put in a good tool kit. I am not mechanical myself, but would like to carry tools so that I may have help from a fellow rider. There are tool kits that are already put together from Amazon.com. Is this a good starting place? What DR650 tools should I have along? I would appreciate your experience to what you would and wouldn't leave behind.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:16 PM   #65043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Couldn't find anything I could buy that fit my exact needs. So I decided to make some. Went to local hardware store for supplies. 1/2" tubing and bender. Then started bending and fitting.

.



Really happy with results.
Very nice job!!!
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:42 PM   #65044
NJ-Brett
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Why not pull it apart and see if it can be fixed?
You can often get new brushes at sears hardware, or an electric motor shop.

Are you sure its really bad and its not a switch/wire problem?




Quote:
Originally Posted by local1 View Post
ok....my bike is a 97,the starter is fried. is this starter used on other suzuki products? since my wallet is saying look for used ones i need all the help i can get?
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:50 PM   #65045
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Couldn't find anything I could buy that fit my exact needs. So I decided to make some. Went to local hardware store for supplies. 1/2" tubing and bender. Then started bending and fitting.
I don't think that is 1/2" tubing - it more looks like electrical conduit (that has a 1/2" Inner-Diameter). The bends also look like you used a conduit bender instead of a tubing bender. Still fine, but I think you should be clear on what you used for anyone else thinking about buying the materials.

Also, if it is electrical conduit, people should be aware that the zinc coating on the outside makes poisonous fumes, and should only be brazed or welded with good ventilation present.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:40 PM   #65046
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muni59 View Post
Hi All,

I did a search, but didn't find what I was looking for. I have not read all of this thread.

I have a new DR650. I'm planning on my first trip (majority on pavement) and would like to know what you all put in a good tool kit. I am not mechanical myself, but would like to carry tools so that I may have help from a fellow rider. There are tool kits that are already put together from Amazon.com. Is this a good starting place? What DR650 tools should I have along? I would appreciate your experience to what you would and wouldn't leave behind.
As recommended before, start with the basic toolkit that comes with the DR. Upgrade this basic kit as you can, but these tools DO work if you need them.

The first thing I'd add is an AMA or AAA membership with roadside assistance. If you get AAA, read the fine print about motos and what kind of service they give you. AMA is like $39/yr, and they support motorcyclists. Their roadside service covers any vehicle you own, even RVs and trailers. AAA is a bit more, but you might get discounts for things like hotels and restaurants. I believe AAA charges more to add things like motos, RVs, and trailers to the coverage.

Then I'd add a flat-repair kit. I carry spare front and rear NATURAL-rubber (patchable) tubes, 2 MotionPro combo tire levers (24mm wrench and 12/13mm wrench), a patch kit, pressure gauge, and a mtn bike pump. I also carry an EnduroStar trailstand, a BeadBuddyII, and a 12V inflator, but these are more luxuries than necessities for fixing a flat. Many people also recommend at least 3 tire levers. I've not really needed a 3rd, or a bead breaker, but most people do. I also carry a piece of rope stout enough to pull the bike with. 15ft is enough to tow carefully with, wrapped and stomped on right peg of towing bike to left peg of towed bike. Un-stomp if you need to get loose in a hurry.

A multi-meter, JB QuikWeld or QuikSteel, electrical tape stored wrapped around some tools, a few feet of 12-14AWG stranded electrical wire, a spare masterlink or two, a small chain-breaker tool, various sizes of zip-ties, a roll of duct tape, WD40 or similar, a fluid transfer pump or length of fuel hose for siphoning, and some baling wire might be handy too. I also carry a Leatherman multi-tool (needle-nose pliers, wire cutters/strippers, philips, flat, knives, awl, corkscrew, margarita blender, etc.).

I can carry all this in a Moose dualsport front fenderpack and a set of ATV Logic tank panniers, neither of which is very expensive. Drill the fender and zip-tie or bolt a fenderpack to the fender, if you're going to use one. They have a tendency to fall off and get lost if you don't.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:41 PM   #65047
Mambo Dave
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Maybe some of you have some ideas here re: fuel mileage. I'm getting seemingly progressively worse gas mileage after each fill-up lately.

This last tankful (stock tank) had me hitting reserve somewhere around 78 miles?

I only just got this bike two weeks ago or so, but even when I was REALLY pushing it, I was getting better MPG. Lately I've been trying to tone it down in RPM's for my commutes (staying under 85), being even and smooth on the throttle, until my Procycle shipment with the larger front sprocket arrives (taking seemingly forever), yet in toning it down I'm getting worse fuel economy.

It still runs as good as it originally did, so I don't think I've worn out the rings or anything. Maybe it's me trying 89 octane vs. 87, or maybe it was the switch to Shell gasoline for this last tank (not a company I generally trust after they took over 1 million vehicles out here in south Florida with sulfur contamination... of which I was affected and wasn't paid for)? Have we just now switched over to the summer formulation of fuels? That could be it I guess.

I don't know what to think.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:40 PM   #65048
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCPB View Post
so i changed out the stock front fender on my '09 DR for a RM250 front fender, mainly for aesthetics but also for the more aerodynamic design (would notice the front catching air at speed sometimes). my worry though is that the RM250 fender is about 4 inches longer on the back, and though it clears just fine it obviously covers more of the air box and engine (the RM250 is liquid cooled, so it makes sense). it has a couple of vertical slits on the back for airflow, but i'm wondering if I should cut out a couple more or drill some holes out on it to let more air flow through? the stock fender has a few horizontal slits on it...

am I worrying about this needlessly?
I run a YZ450F fender with NO holes. I haven't had any issues riding sand in Florida. The oil cooler isn't blocked. Cut/Drill it if it makes you feel better.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:10 AM   #65049
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Maybe some of you have some ideas here re: fuel mileage. I'm getting seemingly progressively worse gas mileage after each fill-up lately.

This last tankful (stock tank) had me hitting reserve somewhere around 78 miles?

I only just got this bike two weeks ago or so, but even when I was REALLY pushing it, I was getting better MPG. Lately I've been trying to tone it down in RPM's for my commutes (staying under 85), being even and smooth on the throttle, until my Procycle shipment with the larger front sprocket arrives (taking seemingly forever), yet in toning it down I'm getting worse fuel economy.

It still runs as good as it originally did, so I don't think I've worn out the rings or anything. Maybe it's me trying 89 octane vs. 87, or maybe it was the switch to Shell gasoline for this last tank (not a company I generally trust after they took over 1 million vehicles out here in south Florida with sulfur contamination... of which I was affected and wasn't paid for)? Have we just now switched over to the summer formulation of fuels? That could be it I guess.

I don't know what to think.
You are getting 78 miles with 3 gallons? Are you sure it was filled up all the way, or that someone didn't reset your trip meter or something? My bike gets about 58 mpg. Yours gets around 26?!
I think it's time to take your carb apart.

By the way, you will get a bit less mileage with higher octane gasoline because higher octane gasoline actually has a lower energy density to avoid compression ignition in high compression engines (not the DR.) So, higher octane gasoline in a vehicle not designed for it is a double waste of money. You spend more money and actually get less power.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:20 AM   #65050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregdee View Post
So, fold it over and put a zip tie or piece of wire around it?
Get a vacuum cap from the autoparts store. Remove the vacuum hose from the petcock to the carb. Cap the fitting on the carb.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:18 AM   #65051
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
You are getting 78 miles with 3 gallons? Are you sure it was filled up all the way, or that someone didn't reset your trip meter or something? My bike gets about 58 mpg. Yours gets around 26?!
I think it's time to take your carb apart.

By the way, you will get a bit less mileage with higher octane gasoline because higher octane gasoline actually has a lower energy density to avoid compression ignition in high compression engines (not the DR.) So, higher octane gasoline in a vehicle not designed for it is a double waste of money. You spend more money and actually get less power.
I agree with the energy density of the higher octane - I tried 89 octane twice, but this last tank was regular.

My fill-up was just a hair over 2.5 gallons. So that's 2.5 gallons to reserve from just about an inch and a half from the top of the filler neck - which is where I fill it to since I don't like it over-flowing at the gas pump. 2.5 gallons to under 80 miles... hopefully that DJ needle and jet kit will get here soon. I can take the carb apart then, but I'm really not sure what I'd be looking for with this progressively worse fuel economy.
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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." --
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:20 AM   #65052
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Generally if the bead is fully and evenly seated all the way round and the tube not folded, then your tire should run smooth ... unless the wheel is bent or you have a faulty tire (which does happen).
Or if you run a rim lock.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:26 AM   #65053
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beezerjuice View Post
I have a 2000 model and the lean surge bugged the hell out of me. I tried a bigger pilot jet and then the Dyno Jet kit. The bigger pilot jet did nothing and with the Dyno Jet kit, the bike ran poorly, mileage when to hell and with the airbox cover off, the bike was loud.I found the simple solution--put a .025" washer under the needle base. This raises the needle to richen the mixture at just off idle and the lean surge went away. The fuel mileage went back to 50mpg.
You could also jet the DynoJet kit correctly and get 48-50mpg.

If you use the washer, it's also best to remove the snorkel and adjust the mixture screw to suit as well.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:06 AM   #65054
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
You could also jet the DynoJet kit correctly and get 48-50mpg.

If you use the washer, it's also best to remove the snorkel and adjust the mixture screw to suit as well.
Yup. I did the Procycle kit and tried to follow the directions as closely as I could. I get about 50MPG and I don't baby it. My front end lofts easily enough in 1st or 2nd and it rips on up to slab speeds nicely. I notice surging when cruising at low-to-mid-range RPMs on windy days, but it starts and runs well other times. This thing is a bulldozer in 1st gear through deep sand.

I shake my head when people claim they need a pumper carb, free-flow exhaust, and 14/42 gearing to wheely or run slab 2up on these things near sea level, or that re-jetting would ruin their 48MPG. Something aint quite right with their tuning or their bike, and it may be something minor, like O-rings or float adjustment in the carb.
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:16 AM   #65055
John E
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Hmmm....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
I am waiting outside the garage door now so I will be first in line when they open on Tuesday. I am sure no one ever taught you and you learned everything on your own.

So it's got about 2 inches of play in it but sounds like it's smacking the crap out of the roller and swingarm. I was going to roll it one click to see what it feels like. <-- any advice on that?
Which wrench are you trying to use? If it's the one in the tool kit, it should be a stamped steel 24mm wrench with a flattened out piece of tubing that fits over the end to give you some extra leverage.

Can you describe what the wrench is doing a little more clearly?

I've been asking some pretty basic questions here lately too, the guys who post here regularly know their stuff, even the one who suggested you back away from the bike. He may have given you a bit of grief but he knows an awful lot about the DR, give him another chance, I'm sure he'll mellow out a bit...;^)
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