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Old 05-28-2012, 11:17 AM   #65071
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Good point. I don't use rim locks on my DR650. But I think Peter does have them on this XR650R ... unless he removed them. The point is ... especially for off road ... perfect balance is not required. For high speed riding over 90 mph you get some action with a badly out of balance tire. I haven't, so have not balanced the wheels. I can see the need however with rim locks if you're doing lots of high speed (over 80 mph) speeds.

I don't know your friend Peter so I can not attest to his knowledge. But, I do work with some of the biggest names in racing here in NC. And I can tell you this for a fact: It is amazing what RACERs don't know. All those guys think they are doing something new when they are just taking a new take on old technology. Example: Piston sprayers and coating. The 1928 Pontiac split head 6 had both piston sprayers and coating on the piston from factory. Yes, there is some new technology, but most of it is recycled. With todays CAD programs and automated systems it is just now more available and affordable.

So, back to the question at hand: is balancing necessary? no...but it doesn't hurt. Doesn't take but a minute to balance one. While you may not feel vibrations your bearings might be getting the crap shook out of them for no reason. Some of this chain vibration problems some are having may be a balance problem at the wheel they don't feel in the bars but is being multiplied at the chain. Harmonics are terrible on anything mechanical or metal.

I think a little common sense goes a long way and I for one balance my wheels not for what I can feel but what I can't.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:38 AM   #65072
DockingPilot
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Procycle TM40

Anyone know if the throttle pull tension can be lightened up a bit ? Talking the Procycle pumper. Did a 700 mile (NJ to Bennington Vt), 2 day trip this weekend and man, by 1500 yesterday afternoon my frikin forearm was talking back to me and I'm not that much of a wuss. Although my wife may argue that.
Anyway to turn down the spring tension ?
52mpg btw with 50% off pavement and some good throttle crackin.

A few from the trip up and back.





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Old 05-28-2012, 02:39 PM   #65073
TBKahuna
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Location: Northern New Hampshire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Any of you guys running something like the Fuzeblock FZ1 or similar on your DRs? I want to clean up the wiring on my bike eventually, and am looking for some good places to mount the block. I'd be running my heated grips, HID headlight and battery tender/heated vest off of it.
Olas,

Look at www.easternbeaver.com. And no, it's not that type of beaver. They have a 3 circuit gizmo that I used on my previous DR.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...3_circuit.html

Although the owner/builder lives in Japan, I have found shipping to be not only reasonable but quick. I've used his products on my GS1200 and my previous DR. He does quality work and his website is very informative.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:46 PM   #65074
John E
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Drilling the swingarm?

I think I already know this but thought I'd put it out there anyway.

Would I be risking life and limb if I drilled a 8mm hole thru the swingarm and then ran a steel bolt thru it?

Making an attachment for my new and improved trail jack and I'd like to mount it near the rear axle.

8mm bolt, retaining nuts on both sides, tightened down with nylock nuts. Other idea was to drill thru from the bottom and run a bolt with an exposed head on the bottom side to attach the jack to. I THINK going thru sideways would be less likely to cause any problems but that's just a wildassed, non-metallurgical engineer idea.

Any thoughts?

For reference, I don't plan on doing any hardcore dirt riding, fire roads, wide trails and pavement only, no jumps or single track.

And yes, I know I'm probably a bit obsessive about this jack thing, started another thread about it in the Garage forum, what can I say, I should have been a half-assed engineer/designer instead of a halfassed EMT...;^) It's just that every time I think I've got a neat, easy, workable solution, I see another way to make it work and fire up the drill press and the grinder.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:51 PM   #65075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
Why not pull it apart and see if it can be fixed?
You can often get new brushes at sears hardware, or an electric motor shop.

Are you sure its really bad and its not a switch/wire problem?
i think i will try this.i have had luck before with a toyota starter.
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #65076
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well i pulled the cover off to check to see if the starter was trying to engage and there was atleast half a gallon of gas/oil
behind the cover?? the bike has been sitting for acouple years before i recently bought it. i'm guessing the fuel drained down or something,but i would think that side of the motor is suppose to be dry? with the generator and things in there? any advice?? i have been working alot and havent had time to buy a manual yet. also there is oil in the airbox?
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:30 PM   #65077
acesandeights
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Just wanted to say, 80% worn trail wings kick ass on single track that's been in the shade for the last six months with only a few weeks of melted snow on them. Yeah, completely wet, completely muddy, deep sink holes are no match for trailwings! Or, at the end of all this I mean to say, don't take the trailwings off paved roads...you've been warned!
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:55 PM   #65078
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Anyone know if the throttle pull tension can be lightened up a bit ? Talking the Procycle pumper. Did a 700 mile (NJ to Bennington Vt), 2 day trip this weekend and man, by 1500 yesterday afternoon my frikin forearm was talking back to me and I'm not that much of a wuss. Although my wife may argue that.
Anyway to turn down the spring tension ?
52mpg btw with 50% off pavement and some good throttle crackin.
Beautiful pics Frank!

I've complained about the stiff pull on that POS Carb for a couple years now. No one has ever commented on it and I could not figure out why ANYONE would put up with that crap.

I only rode the TM40 carb'd bike for about an hour ... and I could already feel it. I have Carpel Tunnel ... and the wrist has been broken as well ... so it's a bit sensitive. The spring tension reminded me of an old Moto Guzzi (I owned two) or my buddies Laverda Jota 1200 Triple. Crippling throttles.

One thing I learned riding enduros in the "old guy" class was the importance of proper ergos and easy to operate controls.
I attended some great Enduro seminars lead by Larry Roessler and Dave Bertram and this was something they mentioned ... and a bunch more. A poorly set up bike will wear you out. Riding in tough off road, you need every advantage and every trick just to make through the four or five hours and 90 miles of Hell. Even a slightly stiff throttle is simply UNACCEPTABLE. Your street bike should be the same.

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Old 05-28-2012, 07:00 PM   #65079
goodcat8
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TM40 is "crippling"?
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:08 PM   #65080
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Anyone know if the throttle pull tension can be lightened up a bit ? Talking the Procycle pumper.
If it is not light and does not snap back to closed, it either has a cable or cable routing problem or to much tension on the closing cable.
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:13 PM   #65081
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by local1 View Post
well i pulled the cover off to check to see if the starter was trying to engage and there was atleast half a gallon of gas/oil
behind the cover?? the bike has been sitting for acouple years before i recently bought it. i'm guessing the fuel drained down or something,but i would think that side of the motor is suppose to be dry? with the generator and things in there? any advice?? i have been working alot and havent had time to buy a manual yet. also there is oil in the airbox?
Rot Row! Was there water in there too?
Probably the Carb Float needle is leaking, allowing fuel to migrate into crankcase. Not good. Good reason to shut off fuel after riding.
What year is your bike?
Do NOT attempt to start bike. No idea what sort of damage this could have caused. Drain everything, let dry until ALL fuel (and water?) has evaporated.

Pull carb, clean and rebuild. The Clutch may be ruined if it sat in fuel or water. Replace. The DR uses a Stator (like a generator) and it lives in Hot oil. But fuel? Might have ruined it, dunno. Looks like a big job. Oil in air box is not unusual and not serious. Someone probably overfilled the bike with oil. The main crankcase vent will pump excess oil into air box. Just clean it up and learn to check oil. You may get lucky ... but no guarantees.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:01 PM   #65082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Anyone know if the throttle pull tension can be lightened up a bit ? Talking the Procycle pumper. Did a 700 mile (NJ to Bennington Vt), 2 day trip this weekend and man, by 1500 yesterday afternoon my frikin forearm was talking back to me and I'm not that much of a wuss. Although my wife may argue that.
Since there were a few comments on this, I went to the garage & twisted my FCR and my son's TM40. Def lighter pull on the FCR but also less snap back. I'll check his routing again and also keep it in mind when I mount up my TM40 next weekend. It's been too long so I don't have a comparison to the stocker.

Beautiful pics - my kinda ride right there.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:08 PM   #65083
John E
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Anything worth doing...

is worth modifying...;^)

The new and improved jack uses a ratchet, a nut and washer, a piece of tubing and a threaded rod to raise and lower the bike at either end. Once I finish up the base for it it'll lift the bike on dirt or pavement and the whole thing will break down into a pretty small kit.

I wrote about the issues I was having with using a simple lever type jack in another thread, in a nutshell, I'm just not comfortable trying to lift the front end of the bike and place a jack in place at the same time. The rear is easier using the pannier rack for leverage but it is also problematic when the bike is loaded for camping.

I've got one bad knee already (osteo arthritis and a ruptured PCL) that gives me problems on occasion and can cause my knee to simply give way at times. I do most of my riding alone and I wanted to be able to use the jack by myself and minimizing the chance of having any problems with it or with the knee.

I like to make stuff, especially stuff that serves specific needs and this little project does that.

Thanks for the thoughts on the swingarm, my plan is to drill thru the swingarm and then run a stainless steel bolt thru it, use some nuts to lock it in place and an nylock to hold the whole thing tight against the swingarm creating a small steel button of sorts that the top of the jack fits into. It will look like a small frame slider when I'm done, already put one on the skid plate and it works like a charm.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:13 PM   #65084
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
TM40 is "crippling"?
I noticed the increased spring tension on my first ride with the TM40...other than noticing it, it was never an issue and I completely forgot about it and never felt like it needed to be reworked...and I'm real picky about the operation and positioning of my controls. I guess it presents itself as an issue to some more than others. I'd make sure the cables are routed properly and lubed, that includes making sure the inside of throttle tube is clean as well as the handlebar under it and apply a light coat of grease or graphite if you do a lot of mud riding.

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Old 05-28-2012, 09:28 PM   #65085
goodcat8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I noticed the increased spring tension on my first ride with the TM40...other than noticing it, it was never an issue and I completely forgot about it and never felt like it needed to be reworked...and I'm real picky about the operation and positioning of my controls. I guess it presents itself as an issue to some more than others. I'd make sure the cables are routed properly and lubed, that includes making sure the inside of throttle tube is clean as well as the handlebar under it and apply a light coat of grease or graphite if you do a lot of mud riding.

Tech23
Agreed. I had the 40 on my last DR. At first I thought "WTF"? After a few minutes didn't notice it. When I'd get on my KTM the throttle felt loose and sloppy in comparison. All personal preference I suppose, assuming the throttle is set properly and not pinching anywhere, but "crippling" is a bit dramatic I think.
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