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Old 06-09-2012, 08:08 PM   #65671
Jon_PDX
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Thanks for the info. I'll check them out.

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Old 06-09-2012, 08:53 PM   #65672
BergDonk
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Tm40

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
For the TM that is obviously lean.
Check the ring on the front of the carburetor that goes into the manifold just to be certain.
Just posted over on the Oz thread.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12052
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12053
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:19 PM   #65673
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
Thanks, B&B Offroad an Australlian equipment mfg. Its not cheap but for some reason I was getting allot of scratches from my boots and decided to use the frame guards to prevent it.

www.bboffroad.com.au/
Jesse @ Kientech carries the B&B frame guards for the DR350, maybe he can get the ones for the 650, too? I'm interested in them myself so I'll check with him next week and report back here. I need to call in an order for GSXR exhaust hanger and plate anyway.

http://www.kientech.com/DR350FrameGuard.htm
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:56 PM   #65674
Thumper Dan
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NSU upgrade - torque specs and gasket question

Hi all,

I know this subject has been flogged to the hilt but is it absolutely necessary to use a torque wrench to do the clutch cover bolts back up to spec. The only reason why I ask is because I don't have a torque wrench but if its important enough, may buy one?

What are the specs for the clutch cover bolts: I tried to find but couldn't locate.

And when I put the gasket back on, is "gasket goo" (or similar product) necessary?

thanks heaps from the very new noob.
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:46 PM   #65675
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
...is it absolutely necessary to use a torque wrench to do the clutch cover bolts back up to spec. The only reason why I ask is because I don't have a torque wrench but if its important enough, may buy one?
The bolts holding the cover only go to around 7 ft/lbs of torque which is not much,its only a 6 mm bolt.
At the most it would be seated by hand and no more than a 1/4 turn more.
Seat them,then just nip them up,with a new gasket just fit it as it is,just make sure the surface on the case and cover is clean and free of any old gasket material.

PM me if you need a link to the manual.
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ADV8 screwed with this post 06-09-2012 at 11:53 PM
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:03 AM   #65676
ER70S-2
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A torque wrench isn't necessary if you're a tool guy, how's your 'touch'? Instead of a torque wrench you could buy a 1/4" drive ratchet set and use it for all the 6mm bolts on your bike. Just a little bit past snug. There are a dozen of them, just look for leaks and re-snug. This is a case where loosish is way better than stripping a hole in your alum case.

My mechanic wizard buddy just puts a coat of grease on those gaskets, they almost take themselves apart next time.

If you don't have it apart yet, allow time to get the old gasket off, don't be in a hurry. My gasket was damn near welded to the clutch cover and broke into several pieces when I removed the cover. Pematex makes a gasket remover, but it takes a long time and several applications in my case. I won't use a steel blade on an alum gasket surface, too easy to FU. Someone mentioned using an old credit card.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-10-2012 at 11:08 AM
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:42 AM   #65677
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
Some pics of the new "adventure" set-up. Wheels are WARP 9, 19"X2.15" front, 17"X4.25" rear (laced to my OEM hub). Tires are Shinko 705, 110/80-19 front and 150/70-17 rear.
Your front tyre is mounted backwards.
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:37 AM   #65678
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Your front tyre is mounted backwards.
He's right; it is.
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:35 AM   #65679
Albie
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Just don't ride in the rain and you'll be OK.
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:56 AM   #65680
sandwash
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I think I might have scored on a set of wheels and rims from a 08,
500$.Shipping is going to get me though.Their are in FL and I am in AZ.Seems like a good deal.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:49 AM   #65681
MSrider
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Location: Florence, Mizzippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
The TM40 and the BST40 are the same size and flow the same air. I always ran my BST with the needle at 4 down, thats 2 up from the bottom. 3rd notch was ok and it got me 48 mpg but, the surging was increased so, 4th notch was my preference.

With the TM40 you can run the needle leaner due to the pumper aspect. Mine runs great at the 3rd notch and gets better economy than the BST. 50 mpg plus is easy to do.

Both carbs run the same main jet for the set up. My TM40 likes more out on the pilot screw though. I run it about 2 3/4 turns out compared to 2 or less on the BST.

So, if both carbs were set at 3rd notch, 150 main and about 2 turns out they will both run about the same above say 3,000 rpm... I'm guessing there. The TM40 will give better throttle response and pull at a lower RPM better than a vacuum carb. Thats it, no big HP gains, no squid go fast BS.

If your having trouble its probably the install or the carb is not set up like you think. If you did not verify needle position, main jet size and AP rod position then you don't know where your at. Many times its an intake leak, loose or ill fitting boot, a bad choke knob fitting, vent lines going up hill etc..
good info on set-up.

the carbs may be the same size but the TM flows a good bit more air at W/O throttle than the BST.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:36 AM   #65682
planemanx15
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Cee Baileys

Any short guys like myself (68") have the Cee Bailey's Commuter windshield? how do you like it?
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:38 AM   #65683
N.dica
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OK i sprayed around the carb with choke off using starter fluid. There was a slight increase in rpm but it wasnt huge. The thing is i have both manifolds on as far as they will go and the collars are screwed in as tight as they will go. I dont know how to create a better seal than that. How could I seal the manifolds better? Im also taking the bastard off to muck with the pilot jets.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:18 AM   #65684
TrophyHunter
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jonkohl - good catch.

N.dica - can you post up a few pics of the TM40 installed? I'm not adept at tuning carbs but something on the install may look off.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:25 AM   #65685
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
OK i sprayed around the carb with choke off using starter fluid. There was a slight increase in rpm but it wasnt huge. The thing is i have both manifolds on as far as they will go and the collars are screwed in as tight as they will go. I dont know how to create a better seal than that. How could I seal the manifolds better? Im also taking the bastard off to muck with the pilot jets.

I bet you have found your problem. I may not seem like much but it doesn't take much of a leak to mess you up. As far as getting a better seal; just go slow and careful. Clean an check the mating surfaces carefully. I have had a leak that went away for no apparent reason after I took the carb off and put it back on carefully. Could have been a tiny piece of sand or something, who knows. Good luck.
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