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Old 06-16-2012, 08:10 AM   #65971
GaThumper
Road Less Traveled
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Thank you so much for this confirmation that I am not a complete basket case!

I kept reading all these glowing reports on the off-road capabilities of the DR, and was thinking to myself "what's wrong with me?"

Had been involved too long with off-road riding, that's what's wrong with me.


Therein lies the problem: all the worthy trails are 200 miles away; do I really want to take a KTM to a 4-hour drone through highways before getting to the good parts of the ride? That's why I got the DR, I thought it would handle the street portions well, and the dirt sections respectably.

Of course now I'm thinkg of how objectionable can the KTM be on the street?

When I first started riding (late '80s) I would take my (street legal) XR or IT on the road without any concerns, but the trails back then were only an hour away. Nowadays I don't enjoy the long asphalt drone even on the DR, so how is a dirt-specific machine going to feel on the same roads?


I was afraid you were going to say that, but at least now I know.

I'll give the DR the benefit of the doubt and keep it through the summer (after all, I don't feel like wrenching a new bike during prime riding season); if it doesn't work out, then I'll try something new in the fall.

Thanks for all the help and honest assessment!
You have met the enemy and he can not be defeated. You must decide how to live with him!

What I have found is any bike light enough to be GREAT in the woods is no fun droning the slab, and any bike heavy enough to be fun on the pavement is difficult to handle in the woods.

It can be done, I ride with groups from the KLR650 forums a good bit and there are quite a few guys who enjoy rough single track and rock gardens on a KLR650 and it's heavier and less dirt worthy than our DR650 (in my opinion). The KLR and the DR can go into some really rough terrain as attested to by many many riders here on ADV.

And there are plenty of people who are just as happy to slab it on a KTM, Husky, etc. because they value the lighter weight and better suspension of a true dirt bike off road. (of course we're talking small high performance bikes and not big adventure bikes) You'll probably need to change the oil after every ride, and enjoy adjusting valves etc. more frequwntly.

I had a KTM 450exc and it was GREAT off road, but I hated hitting the highway for a stretch on it. FOR ME, it was not going to be an acceptable dual sport. So I ended up trailering it to the riding areas and using it strictly off road.

Then I tried a lighter weight dual sport and it was better off road than my DR650, but not fun on the highway. I would trailer it the 2-3 hours to the base camp for a DS ride and it was fine for riding 150-200 mile dual sport rides.

The DR650, FOR ME, is fun on the road. When we pop out of the woods and set off for an hour on the highway to the next woods section, I enjoy it instead of enduring it on the smaller bike. And the price I pay is less off road agility. It can be taken as deep as you want to go in the woods, but for me I choose to stick to FS roads, jeep trails, and mild singletrack.

So you'll have to make your choice and figure out how to make it work FOR YOU. For many this means owning two (or more) bikes and selecting the right bike for the ride of the day. For others it means riding a big dual sport and compromising in the woods, or riding a high performance dirt weapon and compromising on the street.

As I made the transition from pure off road riding to dual sport, it took me a few bikes to figure out that dual sport = compromise, there's no right or wrong bike, it's an individual decision, and I needed to decide what I was willing to compromise. That's why you'll see dual sports referred to as 50/50 or 80/20, and I don't think there there will EVER be a 100/100 dual sport!

Have fun on the DR this summer and then try something else. That's part of the fun to me. I've enjoyed the quest for the perfect dual sport, even as I've come to realize there is no PERFECT dual sport. Dual sport to me, as in life, is more about the journey, and less about the destination.

Good Luck! and most of all Have Fun!
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:12 AM   #65972
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
A 150/70 will be 21mm (.83") taller than a 120/70. The first number is the width of the tire, the second number is the height of the tire (sidewall) expressed as a percentage of the width (70% in this case). 70% of 150mm is 21mm greater than 70% of 120mm. Variations of tread height may also be a factor for different types of tires.
the tire will actually be ~1.65" taller, as i stated above - there are two sidewalls in the diameter of a tire. it will make the bike sit about 0.83" higher in the rear, which is half the total height difference...

doug s.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:36 AM   #65973
JagLite
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 933
Thumb Suspension 101 - the easy way

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Probably needs a whole new thread.

I've done everything from revalve/respring standard suspension, rebuild modified standard suspension, replace standard suspension, to cut all the standard suspension mounts off the main frame and fabricate new ones to suit rear ends from different bikes. It's been a slow learning process. Combined with a book on building frames for competition use it's been very instructive. There are many things I regret along the way. Cutting off and completely changing the suspension is not one of them.


I did learn there are easy and hard ways to do everything.

The easy way is to let someone else do it and copy them.




I'll need to make a new photobucket account for all the pics and do step by step on each modification. Stay tuned.
That's the spirit! I like the EASY way!

Share with others what you have learned through hard work, a lot of time, and no doubt a LOT of money.
There will always be, uh, concerned individuals who are convinced that the factory way is the best way and any changes will be dangerous.
Some probably believe that changing the tires can be fatal.

The other 99% of us love to learn what others have done and how it works out over time.

I bought an 05 RM 250 (with the engine remains in a box) specifically with the intention to follow your lead and change out the front and rear DR suspension with the RM.

To have a pictorial write-up of your latest & greatest will be extremely helpful when I tear into mine this winter.

I am tuned in!

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Old 06-16-2012, 10:11 AM   #65974
johnkol
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
FWIW, my current 2 wheel fleet is as follows:
for the wife - 1982 Yam XT250, 2006 Kaw KLX250/300, but mine too
my dirt options - 1981 Yam IT175, 1998 Hus FE 501, 2007 Hus FE650, 2008 Scorpa SY250R
for the long haul - 2008 Kaw 1400GTR (AKA Concours 14)
and for everything else - 2009 Suz DR650SE
Wow! Looks like how my stable would have been if I hadn't sold any of the bikes that I acquired over the years.

I envy you!
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:56 AM   #65975
johnkol
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
When I took my rear wheel to the tire shop to replace my 5 year old OEM traiwing they said it was one of the toughest beads they ever had to break.
I removed my 6-year old OEM Trailwing last year, and I didn't find it that difficult to break the bead. I did initially waste my time attempting to use a c-clamp and a bead popper, but then I broke the bead with just two tyre spoons.

The trick is to use one spoon in a traditional way to push the tyre down, then use the other spoon upside down, lodge it deep inside the tyre/rim gap that the first spoon has created, and then pull this second spoon towards you. The idea here is to grab the tyre bead with the hooked tip of the second spoon; once you do that, a good pull on the spoon against the rim will unseat the bead quite easily.

In all the above it is essential to have the valve core removed; with it in place, unseating the bead is a lost cause.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:53 AM   #65976
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVwanaB View Post
How is the engine vibration at speed?
is there a noticable vibration difference?
Smoother everywhere. My commute is all interstates and it moves really fast. I have the bike geared for highway, so 80/85 mph is no big deal. Hell it hits 90/100 very, very easily. No vibrations. Just wind.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:57 AM   #65977
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
Oddometer: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
one of the reasons i do not like this kit is because the cylinders are NOT aluminum. i would much prefer nicasil coated aluminum cylinders than steel-sleeved cylinders. better wear, better heat transfer, more even expansion w/pistons, so you can have tighter tolerances. unfortunately, due to size issues, a completely new cylinder would have to be manufactured, and i guess there is not enough of a market for a big-enough production run. some day, i will have over-sized pistons/cylinders installed in my buell, and you can be sure i will be going w/aluminum cylinders. they are simply better in almost all applications...

ymmv,

doug s.
The way Suzuki told me to break the bike in made quick work of that nicasil. Cylinder was toast. Pretty sure every other thumper on the market has a steel bore.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:58 AM   #65978
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
Oddometer: 8,283
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
A teaser...before I broke it on the last ride...but I've cut the damaged frame rail out and fixed it now.



It was time to strip stuff and apply grease to bearings anyway. I believe it has around 40,000km on it now.
I know I'm partial, but: The DR, when it is set up like this has such classic looks. It looks to me like what a dirt bike should look like! (even with the stock forks.)
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 06-16-2012 at 12:12 PM
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:12 PM   #65979
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADurstewitz View Post
The way Suzuki told me to break the bike in made quick work of that nicasil. Cylinder was toast. Pretty sure every other thumper on the market has a steel bore.
interesting. 'most every pic of a disassembled dr650 engine shows the cylinder still in great shape...

the carbide bore process talked about earlier looks good, if you are gonna use a steel bore:

http://bore-tech.com/Carbide%20Bore%20Process

doug s.
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:29 PM   #65980
Tech23
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Arizona Desert
Oddometer: 458
Quote:
Originally Posted by MADurstewitz View Post
The way Suzuki told me to break the bike in made quick work of that nicasil. Cylinder was toast. Pretty sure every other thumper on the market has a steel bore.
Just wondering what air filter you are running and how much off road riding you do?

Tech23
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:04 PM   #65981
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 306
nsu and gasket oil outlet leak?

Hi all,

I've just upgraded the NSU sensor with locktite and safety wire etc. Not the most pleasant job in the world, which was getting the all screw out and then having to thread wire through; anyway, I've done it.

What I've ran into is the outlet (inlet/out oil hose.........not sure) has a weep in it and I've tightened it up pretty good. I didn't think there was any gasket associated with it.

Any solution to fixing this, has I cannot tighten anymore without busting something???



Sorry, I did try to rotate and resize this picture but with no success This is the best I could get :)
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod

Thumper Dan screwed with this post 06-16-2012 at 05:31 PM
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:09 PM   #65982
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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There was an 0-ring in there.
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:10 PM   #65983
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,110
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Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:23 PM   #65984
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Hah! I had a new 76 RM125 as well,first good 6 speed longer travel 125 I ever rode. The 76 YZ125 was no heavier then any other 125 of that era. The monoshock became pogo-like after some hard use and the YZ forks werent too good with the air springs and those goofy caps,they,re worth a few bucks now though.
Then I had a new 74 Elsinore 250,trans exploding like popcorn,didnt rev much at all,broke the frame.
I saw Gaston Rahier when he came down to New Zealand in 1975/76
That was enough to save the $300 deposit on a brand new RM125.
Although would have to add its seems the model years were different in the USA.
There was the 1975 RM125M then the RM125S (which I still have in boxs plus two spare engines)
The RM125S was the steel tank,five speed and low pipe with porting and a 34mm Mikuni.
Basically a 'hop up model of the M.
I think the S model was rare in the USA as they went straight from the M to the RM125A in late 76 ?



It is always amusing to read of the DR shortcomings.
I still remember riding a mates brand new 1979 XR500 (street legal in NZ) compared to the RM125N I had.
Nasty four stoke,never going to have one of those............ until 2008.
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Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:55 PM   #65985
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post

Wholly CRAP!! I didn't even know it was there but yes, when I pulled the oil line back off, NOT there. I was moving that casing around my whole workshop, so could have bounced anywhere. As luck would have it, I had one that fitted which has now stopped the leak (should I order an original one thought??)

Honesly, this forum is the ducks nuts............this has saved me so much time (and money). Maybe I need to take time to read instructions before rushing in.

***

Anyway, now my next issue and I noticed when I was replacing the seal just then.

this pic[IMG][/IMG]

When I was scrapping the wonderful gasket off, which wasn't too bad , I've washed all the gasket scrapings out under the tap. However, I did then wash the inside of the casing out with fuel and believed I got rid of all the water residue.

I'm not sure if you can see but that is a bit of milky white in the view screen.

What should I do, leave it and see if it burns off (I've seen advise from Procycle advising this) or should I flush my baby out and put more oil in???

thanks once again.
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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