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Old 06-16-2012, 06:40 PM   #65971
AST236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Personally, I'd run it just enough to get it hot and then drain and re-fill with fresh oil. Granted it probably won't hurt to just run it, since it's probably a really small amount, but as Trophy Hunter said, oil is cheap insurance.
Agreed
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:42 PM   #65972
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
I started writing it up once upon a time, and I got some PMs from some crazies. Blokes having at rant about how dare I tell everyone that suspension off a 250 would fit on a 650 and that people would die a lingering death on the trail somewhere with half a fork hanging out of them because of me...blah blah, yarda yarda...etc etc.
Fuk 'em.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Out in my garage at the moment I have 7 shocks from 5 different bikes, only 2 of them direct matches to anything I own, 10 shock springs in different weights to suit various shocks that I do and don't have, 4 complete sets of forks, 3 sets of forks springs in different spring rates. I've fitted 3 different front ends to DRs, done 4 different rear end set ups. I've sold stuff off along the way but still have a pile of spares and stuff. I've done everything from revalve/respring standard suspension, rebuild modified standard suspension, replace standard suspension, to cut all the standard suspension mounts off the main frame and fabricate new ones to suit rear ends from different bikes. It's been a slow learning process. Combined with a book on building frames for competition use it's been very instructive. There are many things I regret along the way. Cutting off and completely changing the suspension is not one of them.
Cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
I did learn there are easy and hard ways to do everything. The easy way is to let someone else do it and copy them.
Yup, that's why we need you to post pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
But I can run side by side with any 450 and in terms of suspension and handling they have very little over me. Weight can work for and against you, depending on the terrain, and depending on riding style. I grew up racing dirt bikes in the 70s. I'm pretty sure my 1st YZ125 was nearly as heavy as the DR...well...close. I was younger then and it was as hard to lift off the ground as the DR is.

I'll need to make a new photobucket account for all the pics and do step by step on each modification. Stay tuned.
Good to see you back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
I was actually running 40PSI when I lowsided through an intersection. I lowered it to 29 after that, after being told 40psi was way too high, but the wierd thing is before the lowside I don't remember the bike feeling squirmy at all, but I had only a couple hundred miles on the new setup before the crash. Don't know if it was the higher tire pressure that made it feel ok, or maybe something got damaged during the crash (the bike slid into a curb), but nothing looks looks bent or twisted.
Did you see the impact; both tires together, straight on from the front or rear, high side?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
What about the bushing in the steering stem? I have read a lot of posts where people say this can cause the bike to handle strangely... I have taken pretty much everything apart on the bike at one point or another except the trees. This intimidates me because I don't believe I have the proper tools to tackle it, or how to tell if there is even a problem in there.... any thoughts on that? the bike is a 2006 and has 18,000 miles but I have gone through most everything on the bike and it almost looks new everywhere now.
You mean steering head bearings? They're the same as trailer bearings, nothing magic. My steering was notchy by 15,000 miles because of dry steering head bearings. Since you've already gone through most everything else, it's time to learn the steering head. There's nothing in there but two bearings (2,3), a nut (4), the top triple (7), a washer (9) and another nut (8).



Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
So yeah basically I have three things in my mind that I think might be causing this... too tall of a rear tire, steering stem bushing, or wheel(s) being out of true...
I know you're tall, but have you ridden the bike with the shock in the lowered position, as a test?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:47 PM   #65973
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Breaking Beads

Ever wonder why its so easy to pull that blown tube on the trail? Because riding on the flat tire has broken the bead already.

Next time you have a tough bead to break, pull the valve stem and ride the bike in slow, tight figure eights.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:56 PM   #65974
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
Wholly CRAP!! I didn't even know it was there but yes, when I pulled the oil line back off, NOT there. I was moving that casing around my whole workshop, so could have bounced anywhere. As luck would have it, I had one that fitted which has now stopped the leak (should I order an original one thought??)
There was an inmate a few weeks ago having a problem with a generic o-ring, kept leaking or swelling or ??, so, yes order a Zuki one as a back-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
Anyway, now my next issue and I noticed when I was replacing the seal just then.



When I was scrapping the wonderful gasket off, which wasn't too bad , I've washed all the gasket scrapings out under the tap. However, I did then wash the inside of the casing out with fuel and believed I got rid of all the water residue.

I'm not sure if you can see but that is a bit of milky white in the view screen.

What should I do, leave it and see if it burns off (I've seen advise from Procycle advising this) or should I flush my baby out and put more oil in???

thanks once again.
We're constantly burning off condensation in our crankcase from the never ending hot/cold cycles (ride/ park/ ride/ park). If it's just what's left over from rinsing the cover, ride it.......................it's not my bike. (yes, ride it. )
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:37 PM   #65975
Super Sherpa
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Fork Seals

Well it appears that I am in need of replacing my fork seals.

I'm wondering about how extensive the procedure is to replace the fork seals. Further, if OEM seals are better or no different than aftermarket.

Thank you all for your input.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:47 PM   #65976
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sherpa View Post
Well it appears that I am in need of replacing my fork seals.

I'm wondering about how extensive the procedure is to replace the fork seals. Further, if OEM seals are better or no different than aftermarket.

Thank you all for your input.
Just did mine, some impressions...

Don't worry about the special tool out need, just get a 1" square steel tubing about 2-3 feet long should do, and use that in a vise to hold the damper rod. You should have a friend there to help pull the inner and outer tube apart. When putting it back together, first be mindful of how the plastic spacer is set up on the bottom of the damper rod, it was causing me some issues. Second, when tightening the hex bolt on the bottom, go in about 3 turns, then pull the inner and outer tubes apart. I have read some where that they can stick together, and they did for me. Once you pull them apart, use the steel tube, to hold the damper rod, and tighten the hex to spec. I used blue Lottie on the bolt. If need be, replace your bushings too, this way you don't have to go in there again.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:50 PM   #65977
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Ever wonder why its so easy to pull that blown tube on the trail? Because riding on the flat tire has broken the bead already.

Next time you have a tough bead to break, pull the valve stem and ride the bike in slow, tight figure eights.
Flat tyre (100km old Shinko 244), rode 50km home...
WD40, centre stand, standing on footpeg, pushing up on beam in shed...
45mins of pissing about later, the bead was broken

New tube, 5,000 more km from the tyre...
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:06 PM   #65978
Feelers
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Cool2 Every few months...

Every few months, I get the idea that there is a better long distance enduro bike out there. So, I redo a bunch of looking at bikes. I value (in no particular order) comfort, fuel economy and range, simplicity, cheap to buy-own-maintain, toughness, luggage capacity, low weight, ruggedness, reasonable seat height, electrical capacity, smoothness, wide transmission ratios, field repairability, steel frame, etc.

I'm not a racer and wouldn't appreciate a top-of-the-line suspension - though mine is improved with intiminators, heavier springs, and new valving. That is sufficient for now.

Due to weight, I come down to the TE-630 and KTM 690. Everyone OOoos and Ahhhhs over these including me. I would like a lower COG with an underseat fuel tank. Additional power might be nice. The TE's alternator and tranny would be nice. But, I don't see how they surpass the DR overall according to my list.

Is there any way relatively easily to get a lower 1st and slightly higher 5th? Besides counter sprocket swaps?
I doubt a custom underseat fuel tank would be worth the time, as the tank lobes hang down well (IMS). And the weight in the front probably helps stability.
I don't like the trade-off of rewiring the stator. I've researched it considerably.
Buying a used cylinder and getting the 790 kit sounds fairly reasonable to increase highway speeds for long drones and to match those Euro bikes... (And mechanical simplicity doesn't take a hit at all.) I just wonder about heat production and fuel economy....

Anyway, just blabbing...
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:17 PM   #65979
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http://www.cannonballproject.com/content/history/

Cannon Ball Baker did San Diego to NYC in 11 1/2 days on a 7 HP Indian in 1914. I (mostly) stopped overthinking things after reading his story. I'll be doing most of the centenial ride in 2014 on my DR.

...and yeah, I look around at stuff all the time.....& then I go ride the DR with a big smile on my face.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:26 PM   #65980
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There was an inmate a few weeks ago having a problem with a generic o-ring, kept leaking or swelling or ??, so, yes order a Zuki one as a back-up.
Viton

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:42 PM   #65981
PPCLI-Jim
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The reason I like my DR 650

I see people like it for its simplicity , moan at it for being archaic. I always hear stuff about how heavy it is , and how things can be improved on it. But you must admit as a simple reliable bike that has the best option for true on off road without having to sell your soul to the bank. This is it. while air cooled and having to pay for that in weight. It never breaks a waterpump.. While it does not have a massive tank or range of 200 miles the stock tank is decent sized and doesnt get in the way when it the dirt. It doesnt have the most horse power in its size range but its all usable on the street and dirt.jeez theres isn't one reason i like my DR theres lots of them. When others start to get shaky I have yet to truly dislike my DR like i have other bikes in the past. Ive take it on the street on speed that would have the bike impounded, I have trail ridden all day , have taken it on a trial course (yes a TRIALS) when the scorers saw me coming they cringed but I chugged my way up the inclines and hops . (i did smack the frame tubes though) I just like it , my range of bike has been wide and varied so that is my 2 cents on the issue about the bike.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:14 PM   #65982
Feelers
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Thumb Psshhhh

Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
I always hear stuff about how heavy it is... This is it. while air cooled and having to pay for that in weight. It never breaks a waterpump..
Or thermostat, or radiator, or hose, or fans, or develops a gasket leak of antifreeze...

For a non full-on dirtbike it's really not so heavy. What's it got? 10 pounds on the TE630? 20? With the same fuel volume, the weight difference is negligible. Just think, all that liquid cooling tech and a bored-out, simple, air/oil-cooled, old bike is right there with its HP/Weight ratio... hahahaha

The Orange one is supposedly quite a bit more powerful, and significantly lighter, but a certain RR turned me off to it. Plus, you can almost buy 2 DRs for the price of 1 690... Not to mention it fails most of my criteria. Not to mention I'm a hater. Haha
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:27 PM   #65983
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Just did mine, some impressions...

You should have a friend there to help pull the inner and outer tube apart.
No help is really needed, the tubes are held together with a light press fit. A gentle series of 'see tool below' will separate the tubes after this clip is removed from above the fork seal (and the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork tube). The seal will come out at the same time. (I hope I got this right, I'm having a bit of brain fade ) I made a mistake about a year ago (this same issue) and another inmate had to straighten me out. Anyone feel free to refresh my memory, I don't want to mislead someone.



Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
If need be, replace your bushings too, this way you don't have to go in there again.
Good idea.

You don't need one of these, you just need to think like one.
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2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:58 AM   #65984
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
So I shimmed my carb needle up with a small nylon washer, and I drilled another same size hole in the slide. Snorkel removed, stock otherwise (non-cut airbow and stock exhuast) and I think the mixture screw is out 2 or 2.50 turns.

Bike seems to run a little smoother, it doesnt have that low rpm surging anymore, I will see how it performs in the next few days.

Anything else I can do stock or are the next steps a jet kit, exhaust, and cut airbox?
Maybe a UNI or TwinAir filter, and grind the header weld.

An extended idle-mix screw would make adjustments MUCH easier.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:37 AM   #65985
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
...I don't see how they surpass the DR overall according to my list.
The advantage the DR650 has is it has no competition in its class.
There is no other simple big air (oil) cooled trail bike ?

There have been many times in the past where the only sound was the DR thumping away,look left and nothing to the horizon,same to the right,a ribbon of road ahead as far as you can see,same behind.
Very versatile motorcycle,great at long distance too.
Less can be more,it proves it.
Of course more never hurt.

Still gathering dust,one day.

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