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Old 06-20-2012, 05:00 AM   #66121
Snowy
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Joined: Dec 2008
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Seemed to work.

The difference between my DR standard on these trails, and then standard with new springs and gold valves was significant. Much better ride.

Going to the RMZ suspension made more improvement on top of that.

Standard was slow going and very skittish. I can ride a lot quicker, a lot more relaxed on the better set up. It stops when I want it to, I can line up an erosion hump and just hit it without worrying about bottoming out.

It doesn't look it, but some of the humps I hit during that video I'm actually getting around 25 feet horizontally off them (easy off some). Not even trying. I did that once on standard suspension at these sorts of speeds and it bounced so hard I turned it 180 degrees and hit the deck travelling backwards at 70kph.

Much hilarity.

I can ride it with dual sport tyres or full knobbies without significant change in pace, but a knobbie front is preferable simply because it gives the hook up for braking on the steep bits. I've found a few dual sport tyres on the steep stuff start locking well before any reduction in speed occurs. There are no steep bits in the video. But they are steep enough that an MTB rider would swallow his pride and walk his bike up some of them.

I find that the loose rocky trails are where the RMZ suspension really shines. You get so much better traction.

But when the traction does suddenly run out, shit gets real....fast.

You're off into the scenery and they call it "HARD wood" for a reason..

Snowy screwed with this post 06-20-2012 at 05:17 AM
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:02 AM   #66122
Snowy
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Here's 5 mins of a climb out from one of the old cattlemans huts in the mountains.

I had to cut it short. I think I was bored, I was doing the running commentary, singing elevator muzac, giving trail riding tips, and generally being a bit weird.

You should feel sorry for my wife on the back of the BMW, she has to sit and listen for hours on end. I take her up and down the same tracks. Albeit, a little more carefully.

These climbs aren't super steep, in my experience, but they have a slippery dusty surface on a concrete like base. You'll see me picking weird lines looking for lose rock, because the E07 drives better in that than it does on the powdery crap.
I cut it at 5 mins because they are big files to start with, and the 4x4 I catch up to wont let me pass and I kind of lose it in an axe murderer way with him and roost the shit out of him. So I left that bit off. That way he can't find me. hehehehehehe



Snowy screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 11:59 PM
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:05 AM   #66123
Mutiny!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Do you have a work shop manual (pdf) ?
Are you asking for one, or offering one?

I have the '96-'08 manual in .pdf

It's 86mb though, you figure out a way to transfer a large file and I'll send it through.

I am currently attempting to remove my starter motor. I have a decent idea of how this is done:
- Remove exhaust
- Rotate flywheel to Top Dead Centre
- Remove cam-chain tensioner
- Remove starter motor

I can search up enough step-by-step guides to get me through.

All I want to know is are there any DANGER ZONE elements involved? ie: do I need to be particular about the way I remove or re-install the cam chain tensioner? Is there some particular way the starter needs to be disconnected? Some dinky gasket I am bound to destroy, a needle I will snap off?

I'm no mechanical genius, I just don't want to break anything. Imagine me as a drunk nine year old child with a ball peen hammer and advise me accordingly.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:24 AM   #66124
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Are you asking for one, or offering one?

I have the '96-'08 manual in .pdf

It's 86mb though, you figure out a way to transfer a large file and I'll send it through.

I am currently attempting to remove my starter motor. I have a decent idea of how this is done:
- Remove exhaust
- Rotate flywheel to Top Dead Centre
- Remove cam-chain tensioner
- Remove starter motor

I can search up enough step-by-step guides to get me through.

All I want to know is are there any DANGER ZONE elements involved? ie: do I need to be particular about the way I remove or re-install the cam chain tensioner? Is there some particular way the starter needs to be disconnected? Some dinky gasket I am bound to destroy, a needle I will snap off?

I'm no mechanical genius, I just don't want to break anything. Imagine me as a drunk nine year old child with a ball peen hammer and advise me accordingly.
I had a cam chain tensioner off the other day. I just removed the small bolt on the end, then removed the tensioner complete. When you reassemble I just screwed the tensioner screw thats under the end bolt until it fully retracted, it held itself inplace, so I put it back in with a new gasket, and once bolted down I reversed the screw a touch and it took up the tension.

When you remove the stator cover and starter motor drive don't lose the thrust washers from either side of it. One of mine fell and got caught in the magnet on the flywheel, and when I reassembled without it and started there was a god almighty scraping grinding metal on metal noise. No real damage, just a few flushes and wash outs to remove metal. Hasn't hurt it.

It's a DR. You can't kill them with big rocks and mere shards of metal.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:29 AM   #66125
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Music to my ears!!

How does the EXC fare with highway droning? Is it that much more objectionable than the DR?

I believe all EXC models share the same seat? I love the seat on my 2T EXC, much better than the wider one on the DR.
I wouldn't know about hiway droning. I don't do that on my street bikes much less my dual sports. The only hiways I ride on are the ones with lots of curves.

I've got Renazco's on both my EXC and my 690. The DR is going to get one shortly.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #66126
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8
I was doing some errands so stopped off and had a look,I knew something used to darken the indicator lens but it must have been on the TL with high mount Yoshi system.
The DR indicator is clean as a whistle and no heat damage either.
I am fairly sure I mounted it close to the stock position,the mid pipe hasn't been changed but the indicator looks to be in different locations in these pics.

Thanks for the reply. It does appear that the support tabs, for the turn signals, are different than mine. Mine are smaller and the turn signal mounts much closer to the tubing. However, the distance, between turn signal and muffler shell, appears to be about the same.

I'm referring to parts #1 & #2 in this image:

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Old 06-20-2012, 08:55 AM   #66127
Jon_PDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
R.R., Don't let this stuff get too far in your head. The stock wheels with the stock "deathwings" are pretty good street tires. As long as the rubber isn't really old and hard those tires will stick well enough so that a good road rider, will give many sport bike guys fits on a tight twisty road. You should change from the 14 t front sprocket back to a 15, air up the tires to about 28psi and go out and enjoy your self. One of the tricks for riding a real DS bike on the pavement is to be really smooth. All the travel our bikes have means that there will be an exceptionally large amount of weight transfer and chassis rotation entering and exiting corners. It is kinda funny when we discuss tire sizes that vary be an inch in diameter when the simple act of putting on the brakes can make the forks go down by about 5-6 inches while at the same time the rear suspension extends by around 4 inches. A 1/4 turn of the throttle can move more than 100 lbs of weight from one wheel to the other.

The trick is to be smooth getting off the brakes and transitioning to the corner and then picking up the gas smoothly once the bike is turned. Many riders will do better, not using the brakes much, just smoothly flowing through the corners. Charging corners when you are trying to go fast normally impedes the process quite a lot while upping the drama in spades . Remember slow in, fast out. Ride your ride and enjoy. Once you get the experience, dirt riders will almost always make the best pavement riders.
Rick,

Excellent post regarding how to ride these bikes on the street. The DR, even in stock form, will surprise a lot of folks with faster more powerful bikes. In fact I found I could ride my DR just as fast in the twisties, and with more confidence, than I could ride my FJR1300 on the same section of road. Of course on long sweepers or straight sections, as one would expected, there was no contest.

After finding that out I sold the FJR and replaced it with a F650GS twin. I now have two great bikes that are fun to ride and complement each other very well.

Jon...
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #66128
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Anyone have any creative solutions for a steering stabilizer, maybe adapted from a different type of bike. Would like the WER stabilizer but its $400... I have seen WER stabilizers used on ebay for other dirtbikes ,but don't know if they would work on the DR650.
I had a WER on a Suzuki RMX. It bolts to the same holes as the front fender. I bought the WER from a guy who had it on a KDX. All I had to buy was the Suzuki base plate for around $22 and put it on. Call Drew Smith at WER and give him the measurements of your front fender bolt pattern. I should be an easy match. Probably the same as the RM's and RMZ's.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:54 AM   #66129
Rusty Rocket
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For johnkol:

John, yesterday, I went for a dualsport ride on my 400exc. It was an 8 mile ride to the first dirt road and about 12 to the first trail. Droning is the word. To have my exc set up for the tight, rocky, rooty trails in Western Mass, I run 13/52 sprockets. The top speed that I felt comfortable at, (without feeling like I was winding it out) was 50 mph. That's plenty for the roads I was on because 50 mph was the top speed limit on our route. I would be painful to ride those sprockets on the highway at 65mph. I doubt any one would want to ride an exc on the highway anyway. If you have more open flowing trails in your area than here in New England you will be starting out with a higher overall gearing. I think stock is 14/50. Riding the pavement isn't painful on the exc, just not as comfortable as the DR. Mu ridiong partner has a TE610 and that is really the bike you are looking for. Or a 2007 525exc. (get a 2007 or older RFS motor) I have over $700 in suspension work in my DR650. I bought it based on glowing reports I read here also. For what I wanted to do with it, I HAD to do the suspension (Cogent rear and springs and RaceTech emulators front) The big plus for the DR over a TE or EXC for me is the service intervals. If you put some $$ into the suspension you will have a bike closer to what you are looking for.

I paid $1700 for my DR and put $700 in the suspension and I'm happy. I can't ever imagime finding a exc or TE for that money right now. I have an exc and a DR and 95% of what I want to do is covered with these bikes. Here in CT we can plate a 2T. I had a 250 exc 2T and it was plated. Now that was hell on the street. Vibes that would start putting your hands and feet to sleep within 5 miles. If I had to have only one bike, I would sell both and get a lightly used 2007 525exc. Came with turn sigs and all DOT stuff and has the old long lived RFS motor with screw and locknut valve adjusters. I would just keep a road countershaft sprocket in my tool pack for long (over 50 mile) road jaunts.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:57 AM   #66130
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Are you asking for one, or offering one?

I have the '96-'08 manual in .pdf

It's 86mb though, you figure out a way to transfer a large file and I'll send it through.

I am currently attempting to remove my starter motor. I have a decent idea of how this is done:
- Remove exhaust
- Rotate flywheel to Top Dead Centre
- Remove cam-chain tensioner
- Remove starter motor

I can search up enough step-by-step guides to get me through.

All I want to know is are there any DANGER ZONE elements involved? ie: do I need to be particular about the way I remove or re-install the cam chain tensioner? Is there some particular way the starter needs to be disconnected? Some dinky gasket I am bound to destroy, a needle I will snap off?

I'm no mechanical genius, I just don't want to break anything. Imagine me as a drunk nine year old child with a ball peen hammer and advise me accordingly.
Check out this excellent tutorial.
http://www.fuckyouyoufuckingfucker.c...-easy-fix.html
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:03 AM   #66131
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
R.R., Don't let this stuff get too far in your head. The stock wheels with the stock "deathwings" are pretty good street tires. As long as the rubber isn't really old and hard those tires will stick well enough so that a good road rider, will give many sport bike guys fits on a tight twisty road. You should change from the 14 t front spriocket back to a 15, air up the tires to about 28psi and go out and enjoy your self. One of the tricks for riding a real DS bike on the pavement is to be really smooth. All the travel our bikes have means that there will be an exceptionaly large amount of weight transfer and chassis rotation entering and exiting corners. It is kinda funny when we discuss tire sizes that vary be an inch in diameter when the simple act of putting on the brakes can make the forks go down by about 5-6 inches while at the same time the rear sustension extends by around 4 inches. A 1/4 turn of the throttle can move more than 100 lbs of weight from one wheel to the other.

The trick is to be smooth getting off the brakes and transitioning to the corner and then picking up the gas smoothly once the bike is turned. Many riders will do better, not using the brakes much, just smoothly flowing through the corners. Charging corners when you are trying to go fast normally impeads the process quite a lot while upping the drama in spades . Remember slow in, fast out. Ride your ride and enjoy. Once you get the experiance, dirt riders will almost always make the best pavement riders.
Thanks for this informative reply. When I really think about it, the difference in height of a tire is only really half that in an effective way.

I think I will run the trailwing set that were take-offs from my friends 2012 DRZ400. 18" & 21" I will take my 17"rear wheel with me with the Pirelli MT 21 and put on the MT 21 front changing tires on the front wheel for the dirt I will be finding early in the trip.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:27 AM   #66132
zaskar
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Chain noise

So I forgot my earplugs for the first time since owning my dr. ( since 2010). Holy crap does the chain make a lot of noise. Could that be because the rear shock is soo spongey...IT s a newer chain 1000 miles new. OR is it normal. I honestly have not ridden without earplugs before....

who knew.....
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:30 AM   #66133
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by zaskar View Post
So I forgot my earplugs for the first time since owning my dr. ( since 2010). Holy crap does the chain make a lot of noise. Could that be because the rear shock is soo spongey...IT s a newer chain 1000 miles new. OR is it normal. I honestly have not ridden without earplugs before....

who knew.....
There is a lot of tire noise too, depending on whet you are running. I really like earplugs also. I have the stock exhaust on so they are not for the bike sounds, more for the air noise.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:58 AM   #66134
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If I'm going farther than the post office (1.5 miles) i wear plugs. I'm always amazed too at how much noise the DR (or my other bike) makes. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:14 PM   #66135
Motodeficient
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I should probably start wearing earplugs. Things are kind of loud with my open faced helmet, airbox cover removed, and FMF Q4 in need of a re-pack. But I also really like hearing whats going on with bike, not just RPM wise but as you said, suspension, chain, tire, and chassis sounds as well.
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