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Old 06-19-2012, 09:22 PM   #66121
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Just to update, I just got a new 2012 last night (although still at dealer). Can't freaking wait to get on the saddle!!! Anyways, I am having the dealer truck the bike to a dyno end of this week without ever having been fired up and am going to do the "hard break in" there on the dyno. As of now, I am going to do the motoman method as he describes it on his web site, which is as follows:

On a Dyno: Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!




Interested in what folks think of this exact process or if it should perhaps be modified for the DR. I'll let ya know how it goes. Also, not to start a riot, but what are the feelings about auto vs. motorcycle oil for this type of break in procedure? I anticipate changing the oil immediately after the dyno break in. Thanks.

So I broke in my new 2011 using this technique and I am happy with the result. I "feel" like my new bike has more power than my previous DR that was broken in according to the manual (I think). It feels much snappier like it has more compression. I put a hi-comp piston in my last bike and my new one feels somewhere in between. I changed the oil after my forty some mile break-in and found a lot of crud in the filter. Today I changed it again with about seven hundred miles on it and it was CLEAN! No metal, no crud, CLEAN. I think the Motoman break in works.

jessepitt screwed with this post 06-19-2012 at 10:16 PM
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:44 PM   #66122
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
The EXC rails on the street. I can easily keep up with average sport bike riders in the twisties on my 450. Just needs a better seat to make it an all day rider. Most people that claim real dual sports aren't very good on the street must not know what they're doing.
Music to my ears!!

How does the EXC fare with highway droning? Is it that much more objectionable than the DR?

I believe all EXC models share the same seat? I love the seat on my 2T EXC, much better than the wider one on the DR.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:10 PM   #66123
Leon
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CCT gasket replacement

My gasket is done, spattering oil on my Givi luggage. Looks like I have to disconnect the oil lines near by, and re-tension the CCT before reinstalling it. Will I have to take off the exhaust off? Do I really have to put the motor in TDC?
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:08 AM   #66124
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
ADV8: Just curious; do you have any issues with the GSXR can heating up the right rear turn signal stalk or lens? I just put my turn signals back to stock and noticed the distance, or lack thereof, between the two. TIA.
I was doing some errands so stopped off and had a look,I knew something used to darken the indicator lens but it must have been on the TL with high mount Yoshi system.
The DR indicator is clean as a whistle and no heat damage either.
I am fairly sure I mounted it close to the stock position,the mid pipe hasn't been changed but the indicator looks to be in different locations in these pics.






Languishing in the lock up.

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Old 06-20-2012, 02:40 AM   #66125
Thumper Dan
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valve settings

I got the valve set from Jess's and set my the valves and all seems OK. But the instructions said to check when cold but I remember seeing other posts that say warm engine up and wait one hour, then check valve settings??

I'm gathering Jess's instructions would be accurate but just making sure??

any feedback - thanks
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:48 AM   #66126
ADV8
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Do you have a work shop manual (pdf) ?
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49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:34 AM   #66127
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
That's precisely what I'm concluding -- and what I would like to avoid. I never had any delusions of the DR matching my 2T KTM; I was merely expecting to be able to cruise along fire roads at reduced speeds, but in relative comfort and tranquility. If I cannot relax in navigating these roads then there is no reason for me to carry on down this path: I might as well go back to trucking the KTM, or start shopping for a more dirt-oriented bike.
I'll see if this works.

Video from about 3 hours into a Sunday morning relaxed trail ride. Running along a ridge top fire trail. Rocky, although dropping video quality makes it look like the wheel ruts are smooth when they aren't. Trail undulates a little.

Using D952 front and a Mitas E07 rear. I had just stopped for a Snickers bar, water and a wizz.

What I would call my relaxed trail pace on these tyres. You can hear how the engine isn't working at all. The limiting factor on these trails is entirely suspension.



See if this works. I'm a Youtube numptie.

Snowy screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 11:58 PM
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:00 AM   #66128
Snowy
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Seemed to work.

The difference between my DR standard on these trails, and then standard with new springs and gold valves was significant. Much better ride.

Going to the RMZ suspension made more improvement on top of that.

Standard was slow going and very skittish. I can ride a lot quicker, a lot more relaxed on the better set up. It stops when I want it to, I can line up an erosion hump and just hit it without worrying about bottoming out.

It doesn't look it, but some of the humps I hit during that video I'm actually getting around 25 feet horizontally off them (easy off some). Not even trying. I did that once on standard suspension at these sorts of speeds and it bounced so hard I turned it 180 degrees and hit the deck travelling backwards at 70kph.

Much hilarity.

I can ride it with dual sport tyres or full knobbies without significant change in pace, but a knobbie front is preferable simply because it gives the hook up for braking on the steep bits. I've found a few dual sport tyres on the steep stuff start locking well before any reduction in speed occurs. There are no steep bits in the video. But they are steep enough that an MTB rider would swallow his pride and walk his bike up some of them.

I find that the loose rocky trails are where the RMZ suspension really shines. You get so much better traction.

But when the traction does suddenly run out, shit gets real....fast.

You're off into the scenery and they call it "HARD wood" for a reason..

Snowy screwed with this post 06-20-2012 at 05:17 AM
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:02 AM   #66129
Snowy
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Here's 5 mins of a climb out from one of the old cattlemans huts in the mountains.

I had to cut it short. I think I was bored, I was doing the running commentary, singing elevator muzac, giving trail riding tips, and generally being a bit weird.

You should feel sorry for my wife on the back of the BMW, she has to sit and listen for hours on end. I take her up and down the same tracks. Albeit, a little more carefully.

These climbs aren't super steep, in my experience, but they have a slippery dusty surface on a concrete like base. You'll see me picking weird lines looking for lose rock, because the E07 drives better in that than it does on the powdery crap.
I cut it at 5 mins because they are big files to start with, and the 4x4 I catch up to wont let me pass and I kind of lose it in an axe murderer way with him and roost the shit out of him. So I left that bit off. That way he can't find me. hehehehehehe



Snowy screwed with this post 06-21-2012 at 11:59 PM
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:05 AM   #66130
Mutiny!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Do you have a work shop manual (pdf) ?
Are you asking for one, or offering one?

I have the '96-'08 manual in .pdf

It's 86mb though, you figure out a way to transfer a large file and I'll send it through.

I am currently attempting to remove my starter motor. I have a decent idea of how this is done:
- Remove exhaust
- Rotate flywheel to Top Dead Centre
- Remove cam-chain tensioner
- Remove starter motor

I can search up enough step-by-step guides to get me through.

All I want to know is are there any DANGER ZONE elements involved? ie: do I need to be particular about the way I remove or re-install the cam chain tensioner? Is there some particular way the starter needs to be disconnected? Some dinky gasket I am bound to destroy, a needle I will snap off?

I'm no mechanical genius, I just don't want to break anything. Imagine me as a drunk nine year old child with a ball peen hammer and advise me accordingly.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:24 AM   #66131
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Are you asking for one, or offering one?

I have the '96-'08 manual in .pdf

It's 86mb though, you figure out a way to transfer a large file and I'll send it through.

I am currently attempting to remove my starter motor. I have a decent idea of how this is done:
- Remove exhaust
- Rotate flywheel to Top Dead Centre
- Remove cam-chain tensioner
- Remove starter motor

I can search up enough step-by-step guides to get me through.

All I want to know is are there any DANGER ZONE elements involved? ie: do I need to be particular about the way I remove or re-install the cam chain tensioner? Is there some particular way the starter needs to be disconnected? Some dinky gasket I am bound to destroy, a needle I will snap off?

I'm no mechanical genius, I just don't want to break anything. Imagine me as a drunk nine year old child with a ball peen hammer and advise me accordingly.
I had a cam chain tensioner off the other day. I just removed the small bolt on the end, then removed the tensioner complete. When you reassemble I just screwed the tensioner screw thats under the end bolt until it fully retracted, it held itself inplace, so I put it back in with a new gasket, and once bolted down I reversed the screw a touch and it took up the tension.

When you remove the stator cover and starter motor drive don't lose the thrust washers from either side of it. One of mine fell and got caught in the magnet on the flywheel, and when I reassembled without it and started there was a god almighty scraping grinding metal on metal noise. No real damage, just a few flushes and wash outs to remove metal. Hasn't hurt it.

It's a DR. You can't kill them with big rocks and mere shards of metal.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:29 AM   #66132
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Music to my ears!!

How does the EXC fare with highway droning? Is it that much more objectionable than the DR?

I believe all EXC models share the same seat? I love the seat on my 2T EXC, much better than the wider one on the DR.
I wouldn't know about hiway droning. I don't do that on my street bikes much less my dual sports. The only hiways I ride on are the ones with lots of curves.

I've got Renazco's on both my EXC and my 690. The DR is going to get one shortly.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #66133
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8
I was doing some errands so stopped off and had a look,I knew something used to darken the indicator lens but it must have been on the TL with high mount Yoshi system.
The DR indicator is clean as a whistle and no heat damage either.
I am fairly sure I mounted it close to the stock position,the mid pipe hasn't been changed but the indicator looks to be in different locations in these pics.

Thanks for the reply. It does appear that the support tabs, for the turn signals, are different than mine. Mine are smaller and the turn signal mounts much closer to the tubing. However, the distance, between turn signal and muffler shell, appears to be about the same.

I'm referring to parts #1 & #2 in this image:

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Old 06-20-2012, 08:55 AM   #66134
Jon_PDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick View Post
R.R., Don't let this stuff get too far in your head. The stock wheels with the stock "deathwings" are pretty good street tires. As long as the rubber isn't really old and hard those tires will stick well enough so that a good road rider, will give many sport bike guys fits on a tight twisty road. You should change from the 14 t front sprocket back to a 15, air up the tires to about 28psi and go out and enjoy your self. One of the tricks for riding a real DS bike on the pavement is to be really smooth. All the travel our bikes have means that there will be an exceptionally large amount of weight transfer and chassis rotation entering and exiting corners. It is kinda funny when we discuss tire sizes that vary be an inch in diameter when the simple act of putting on the brakes can make the forks go down by about 5-6 inches while at the same time the rear suspension extends by around 4 inches. A 1/4 turn of the throttle can move more than 100 lbs of weight from one wheel to the other.

The trick is to be smooth getting off the brakes and transitioning to the corner and then picking up the gas smoothly once the bike is turned. Many riders will do better, not using the brakes much, just smoothly flowing through the corners. Charging corners when you are trying to go fast normally impedes the process quite a lot while upping the drama in spades . Remember slow in, fast out. Ride your ride and enjoy. Once you get the experience, dirt riders will almost always make the best pavement riders.
Rick,

Excellent post regarding how to ride these bikes on the street. The DR, even in stock form, will surprise a lot of folks with faster more powerful bikes. In fact I found I could ride my DR just as fast in the twisties, and with more confidence, than I could ride my FJR1300 on the same section of road. Of course on long sweepers or straight sections, as one would expected, there was no contest.

After finding that out I sold the FJR and replaced it with a F650GS twin. I now have two great bikes that are fun to ride and complement each other very well.

Jon...
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #66135
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Anyone have any creative solutions for a steering stabilizer, maybe adapted from a different type of bike. Would like the WER stabilizer but its $400... I have seen WER stabilizers used on ebay for other dirtbikes ,but don't know if they would work on the DR650.
I had a WER on a Suzuki RMX. It bolts to the same holes as the front fender. I bought the WER from a guy who had it on a KDX. All I had to buy was the Suzuki base plate for around $22 and put it on. Call Drew Smith at WER and give him the measurements of your front fender bolt pattern. I should be an easy match. Probably the same as the RM's and RMZ's.
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