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Old 06-19-2012, 04:57 PM   #66121
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_NJ View Post
Thanks for the responses to my last post. Lots of good info on the thread suggested.

Here's the question

I have two DR650s available locally.

1992 with around 20,000 miles that I can get for $1,300. Problems that I see are exhaust is LOUD - sounds like half a harley. Turn signals were switched to LED and either do not function or all flash - plan to replace to standard or put in the diode. Kick start only may be an issue although it did start on second kick from cold using the decomp lever.
That one is here http://cnj.craigslist.org/mcy/3015587913.html

or

1998 with 10,000 miles - spoke to owner and he is second owner had the bike for a year and to his knowledge it is totally as-built except for newer tires - no knowledge that the solid idler gear was ever replaced.

asking $2,600 will go to $2,200.

That is here

Any thoughts on prices, in line or outrageous.

Other considerations are parts availability of 92 versus 98, will parts from anything up to new fit on the 98?

Your help and expertise is greatly appreciated
i would buy neither, and buy this instead - even if you have to pay shipping, it's a great deal, imo:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=796934

personally, i cannot understand why this is still f/s...

doug s.
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:00 PM   #66122
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
Need some quick tire suggestions to look at.

I will mainly use it as a commuter with maybe 1 day a week doing fire road excursions.

So Im thinking some type of 80/20 or maybe even a 90/10? Stock wheels. I have Kenda K270 50/50's on another bike and like them, but want something a bit more road worthy on the DR.

I local shop guy suggested the tires that come on the new KLR 650's as they are the same size, and even mentioned the stock trailwings might be ok for what I want (I have full DOT knobbies on now and they arent very good on the pavement).
Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
I'm running Michelin Anakee 2's on my DR and have also had good success w/ Pirelli Scorpions. Great tires for what you are describing.


Anakees and Scorpions are both great tires for doing mostly asphalt duty, but if you want to save some coin, then look at the Shinko 705. A very good tire that will last for many miles, and very good in the rain. They'll handle light gravel roads, too.
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:06 PM   #66123
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Just to update, I just got a new 2012 last night (although still at dealer). Can't freaking wait to get on the saddle!!! Anyways, I am having the dealer truck the bike to a dyno end of this week without ever having been fired up and am going to do the "hard break in" there on the dyno. As of now, I am going to do the motoman method as he describes it on his web site, which is as follows:

On a Dyno: Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm

Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80%
of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes


Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm

Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!



Interested in what folks think of this exact process or if it should perhaps be modified for the DR. I'll let ya know how it goes. Also, not to start a riot, but what are the feelings about auto vs. motorcycle oil for this type of break in procedure? I anticipate changing the oil immediately after the dyno break in. Thanks.
years ago, i was the purchasing/materials mgr for callaway adwanced technology, (anyone remember the callaway corwette?), when they had the contract to build racing engines for aston martin's group-c (lemans series) racing cars. aston would ship us raw block castings, and we would ship them back complete, broken-in engines. while our break in procedure was not identical to the motoman method, they were similar - seweral dyno runs building up to full redline. altho, as has been mentioned above, the "cool down" did not inwolve a complete 15 minute cool down, but simply enough rest to allow the engine to go back to temps it would see at idle...

the corwettes were broken-in in a similar fashion, after we had rebuilt them and installed twin-turbos....

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Old 06-19-2012, 05:24 PM   #66124
epix1718
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Anyone have the IMS tank? I bought a used one with no hardware.. does it use the 2 stock fuel tank mounting bolt to attach to the frame?
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:37 PM   #66125
243Win
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Anyone have the IMS tank? I bought a used one with no hardware.. does it use the 2 stock fuel tank mounting bolt to attach to the frame?
Yes and the rubber bumpers on them too.
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:18 PM   #66126
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243Win View Post
Yes and the rubber bumpers on them too.
But not the same rubbers and bolts as the stock tank, at least not in my case. They are rubber bumpers which fit only on top of the rear tank mounts.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:14 PM   #66127
kobukan
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Anyone have the IMS tank? I bought a used one with no hardware.. does it use the 2 stock fuel tank mounting bolt to attach to the frame?
Mine does not use the stock mounts. It came with different rubber mounts and bolts.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:48 PM   #66128
Mercenary
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Location: Ft St John, BC Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
That's precisely what I'm concluding -- and what I would like to avoid. I never had any delusions of the DR matching my 2T KTM; I was merely expecting to be able to cruise along fire roads at reduced speeds, but in relative comfort and tranquility. If I cannot relax in navigating these roads then there is no reason for me to carry on down this path: I might as well go back to trucking the KTM, or start shopping for a more dirt-oriented bike.
Man...my experience differs wildly from yours as well as opinion. I truck around just fine on my DR on any gravel or dirt road that I can find. Just yesterday I had my DR up to 110 kph indicated on one of our local gravel roads with the stock Trailwings. I usually plonk along in 3rd between 60 and 70 kph....

Sounds to me like the DR you`re riding has some major issues with it...
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:11 PM   #66129
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
Man...my experience differs wildly from yours as well as opinion. I truck around just fine on my DR on any gravel or dirt road that I can find. Just yesterday I had my DR up to 110 kph indicated on one of our local gravel roads with the stock Trailwings. I usually plonk along in 3rd between 60 and 70 kph....

Sounds to me like the DR you`re riding has some major issues with it...
I have been following his story and feel the same way. I was tearing up dirt and gravel roads all weekend and even with 50k or so DR miles under my belt I am still suprised at how well it handles. It is a lot heavier than my race built DR350 but even given that it still handles well. I wonder if weighing 130 makes the difference. I weigh 180+ and I think I fit the stock spring rate ok.
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:22 PM   #66130
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Just to update, I just got a new 2012 last night (although still at dealer). Can't freaking wait to get on the saddle!!! Anyways, I am having the dealer truck the bike to a dyno end of this week without ever having been fired up and am going to do the "hard break in" there on the dyno. As of now, I am going to do the motoman method as he describes it on his web site, which is as follows:

On a Dyno: Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!




Interested in what folks think of this exact process or if it should perhaps be modified for the DR. I'll let ya know how it goes. Also, not to start a riot, but what are the feelings about auto vs. motorcycle oil for this type of break in procedure? I anticipate changing the oil immediately after the dyno break in. Thanks.

So I broke in my new 2011 using this technique and I am happy with the result. I "feel" like my new bike has more power than my previous DR that was broken in according to the manual (I think). It feels much snappier like it has more compression. I put a hi-comp piston in my last bike and my new one feels somewhere in between. I changed the oil after my forty some mile break-in and found a lot of crud in the filter. Today I changed it again with about seven hundred miles on it and it was CLEAN! No metal, no crud, CLEAN. I think the Motoman break in works.

jessepitt screwed with this post 06-19-2012 at 09:16 PM
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:44 PM   #66131
johnkol
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
The EXC rails on the street. I can easily keep up with average sport bike riders in the twisties on my 450. Just needs a better seat to make it an all day rider. Most people that claim real dual sports aren't very good on the street must not know what they're doing.
Music to my ears!!

How does the EXC fare with highway droning? Is it that much more objectionable than the DR?

I believe all EXC models share the same seat? I love the seat on my 2T EXC, much better than the wider one on the DR.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:10 PM   #66132
Leon
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Location: Somewhere between there and there in MN
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CCT gasket replacement

My gasket is done, spattering oil on my Givi luggage. Looks like I have to disconnect the oil lines near by, and re-tension the CCT before reinstalling it. Will I have to take off the exhaust off? Do I really have to put the motor in TDC?
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:08 AM   #66133
ADV8
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
ADV8: Just curious; do you have any issues with the GSXR can heating up the right rear turn signal stalk or lens? I just put my turn signals back to stock and noticed the distance, or lack thereof, between the two. TIA.
I was doing some errands so stopped off and had a look,I knew something used to darken the indicator lens but it must have been on the TL with high mount Yoshi system.
The DR indicator is clean as a whistle and no heat damage either.
I am fairly sure I mounted it close to the stock position,the mid pipe hasn't been changed but the indicator looks to be in different locations in these pics.






Languishing in the lock up.

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Old 06-20-2012, 01:40 AM   #66134
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 317
valve settings

I got the valve set from Jess's and set my the valves and all seems OK. But the instructions said to check when cold but I remember seeing other posts that say warm engine up and wait one hour, then check valve settings??

I'm gathering Jess's instructions would be accurate but just making sure??

any feedback - thanks
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:48 AM   #66135
ADV8
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Do you have a work shop manual (pdf) ?
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49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
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