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Old 06-16-2012, 07:56 PM   #66121
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
Wholly CRAP!! I didn't even know it was there but yes, when I pulled the oil line back off, NOT there. I was moving that casing around my whole workshop, so could have bounced anywhere. As luck would have it, I had one that fitted which has now stopped the leak (should I order an original one thought??)
There was an inmate a few weeks ago having a problem with a generic o-ring, kept leaking or swelling or ??, so, yes order a Zuki one as a back-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
Anyway, now my next issue and I noticed when I was replacing the seal just then.



When I was scrapping the wonderful gasket off, which wasn't too bad , I've washed all the gasket scrapings out under the tap. However, I did then wash the inside of the casing out with fuel and believed I got rid of all the water residue.

I'm not sure if you can see but that is a bit of milky white in the view screen.

What should I do, leave it and see if it burns off (I've seen advise from Procycle advising this) or should I flush my baby out and put more oil in???

thanks once again.
We're constantly burning off condensation in our crankcase from the never ending hot/cold cycles (ride/ park/ ride/ park). If it's just what's left over from rinsing the cover, ride it.......................it's not my bike. (yes, ride it. )
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:37 PM   #66122
Super Sherpa
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Bitterroot Valley, Montana
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Fork Seals

Well it appears that I am in need of replacing my fork seals.

I'm wondering about how extensive the procedure is to replace the fork seals. Further, if OEM seals are better or no different than aftermarket.

Thank you all for your input.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:47 PM   #66123
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sherpa View Post
Well it appears that I am in need of replacing my fork seals.

I'm wondering about how extensive the procedure is to replace the fork seals. Further, if OEM seals are better or no different than aftermarket.

Thank you all for your input.
Just did mine, some impressions...

Don't worry about the special tool out need, just get a 1" square steel tubing about 2-3 feet long should do, and use that in a vise to hold the damper rod. You should have a friend there to help pull the inner and outer tube apart. When putting it back together, first be mindful of how the plastic spacer is set up on the bottom of the damper rod, it was causing me some issues. Second, when tightening the hex bolt on the bottom, go in about 3 turns, then pull the inner and outer tubes apart. I have read some where that they can stick together, and they did for me. Once you pull them apart, use the steel tube, to hold the damper rod, and tighten the hex to spec. I used blue Lottie on the bolt. If need be, replace your bushings too, this way you don't have to go in there again.
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2000 Suzuki DR650 - 790cc Big bore kit, V-Strom seat, Warp 9 Supermoto rims, TM-40 carb.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:50 PM   #66124
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Ever wonder why its so easy to pull that blown tube on the trail? Because riding on the flat tire has broken the bead already.

Next time you have a tough bead to break, pull the valve stem and ride the bike in slow, tight figure eights.
Flat tyre (100km old Shinko 244), rode 50km home...
WD40, centre stand, standing on footpeg, pushing up on beam in shed...
45mins of pissing about later, the bead was broken

New tube, 5,000 more km from the tyre...
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:06 PM   #66125
Feelers
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Oddometer: 181
Cool2 Every few months...

Every few months, I get the idea that there is a better long distance enduro bike out there. So, I redo a bunch of looking at bikes. I value (in no particular order) comfort, fuel economy and range, simplicity, cheap to buy-own-maintain, toughness, luggage capacity, low weight, ruggedness, reasonable seat height, electrical capacity, smoothness, wide transmission ratios, field repairability, steel frame, etc.

I'm not a racer and wouldn't appreciate a top-of-the-line suspension - though mine is improved with intiminators, heavier springs, and new valving. That is sufficient for now.

Due to weight, I come down to the TE-630 and KTM 690. Everyone OOoos and Ahhhhs over these including me. I would like a lower COG with an underseat fuel tank. Additional power might be nice. The TE's alternator and tranny would be nice. But, I don't see how they surpass the DR overall according to my list.

Is there any way relatively easily to get a lower 1st and slightly higher 5th? Besides counter sprocket swaps?
I doubt a custom underseat fuel tank would be worth the time, as the tank lobes hang down well (IMS). And the weight in the front probably helps stability.
I don't like the trade-off of rewiring the stator. I've researched it considerably.
Buying a used cylinder and getting the 790 kit sounds fairly reasonable to increase highway speeds for long drones and to match those Euro bikes... (And mechanical simplicity doesn't take a hit at all.) I just wonder about heat production and fuel economy....

Anyway, just blabbing...
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:17 PM   #66126
TrophyHunter
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http://www.cannonballproject.com/content/history/

Cannon Ball Baker did San Diego to NYC in 11 1/2 days on a 7 HP Indian in 1914. I (mostly) stopped overthinking things after reading his story. I'll be doing most of the centenial ride in 2014 on my DR.

...and yeah, I look around at stuff all the time.....& then I go ride the DR with a big smile on my face.
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"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:26 PM   #66127
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There was an inmate a few weeks ago having a problem with a generic o-ring, kept leaking or swelling or ??, so, yes order a Zuki one as a back-up.
Viton®

http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:42 PM   #66128
PPCLI-Jim
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
Oddometer: 143
The reason I like my DR 650

I see people like it for its simplicity , moan at it for being archaic. I always hear stuff about how heavy it is , and how things can be improved on it. But you must admit as a simple reliable bike that has the best option for true on off road without having to sell your soul to the bank. This is it. while air cooled and having to pay for that in weight. It never breaks a waterpump.. While it does not have a massive tank or range of 200 miles the stock tank is decent sized and doesnt get in the way when it the dirt. It doesnt have the most horse power in its size range but its all usable on the street and dirt.jeez theres isn't one reason i like my DR theres lots of them. When others start to get shaky I have yet to truly dislike my DR like i have other bikes in the past. Ive take it on the street on speed that would have the bike impounded, I have trail ridden all day , have taken it on a trial course (yes a TRIALS) when the scorers saw me coming they cringed but I chugged my way up the inclines and hops . (i did smack the frame tubes though) I just like it , my range of bike has been wide and varied so that is my 2 cents on the issue about the bike.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:14 PM   #66129
Feelers
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Thumb Psshhhh

Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
I always hear stuff about how heavy it is... This is it. while air cooled and having to pay for that in weight. It never breaks a waterpump..
Or thermostat, or radiator, or hose, or fans, or develops a gasket leak of antifreeze...

For a non full-on dirtbike it's really not so heavy. What's it got? 10 pounds on the TE630? 20? With the same fuel volume, the weight difference is negligible. Just think, all that liquid cooling tech and a bored-out, simple, air/oil-cooled, old bike is right there with its HP/Weight ratio... hahahaha

The Orange one is supposedly quite a bit more powerful, and significantly lighter, but a certain RR turned me off to it. Plus, you can almost buy 2 DRs for the price of 1 690... Not to mention it fails most of my criteria. Not to mention I'm a hater. Haha
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:27 PM   #66130
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Just did mine, some impressions...

You should have a friend there to help pull the inner and outer tube apart.
No help is really needed, the tubes are held together with a light press fit. A gentle series of 'see tool below' will separate the tubes after this clip is removed from above the fork seal (and the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork tube). The seal will come out at the same time. (I hope I got this right, I'm having a bit of brain fade ) I made a mistake about a year ago (this same issue) and another inmate had to straighten me out. Anyone feel free to refresh my memory, I don't want to mislead someone.



Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
If need be, replace your bushings too, this way you don't have to go in there again.
Good idea.

You don't need one of these, you just need to think like one.
__________________
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:58 PM   #66131
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
So I shimmed my carb needle up with a small nylon washer, and I drilled another same size hole in the slide. Snorkel removed, stock otherwise (non-cut airbow and stock exhuast) and I think the mixture screw is out 2 or 2.50 turns.

Bike seems to run a little smoother, it doesnt have that low rpm surging anymore, I will see how it performs in the next few days.

Anything else I can do stock or are the next steps a jet kit, exhaust, and cut airbox?
Maybe a UNI or TwinAir filter, and grind the header weld.

An extended idle-mix screw would make adjustments MUCH easier.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:37 AM   #66132
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
...I don't see how they surpass the DR overall according to my list.
The advantage the DR650 has is it has no competition in its class.
There is no other simple big air (oil) cooled trail bike ?

There have been many times in the past where the only sound was the DR thumping away,look left and nothing to the horizon,same to the right,a ribbon of road ahead as far as you can see,same behind.
Very versatile motorcycle,great at long distance too.
Less can be more,it proves it.
Of course more never hurt.

Still gathering dust,one day.

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Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:00 AM   #66133
Feelers
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Question How can you resist!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post

You have that JUST LAYING AROUND, and haven't installed it!??!!?!?
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:42 AM   #66134
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
You have that JUST LAYING AROUND, and haven't installed it!??!!?!?
That photo is from when it arrived,remember when Procycle started taking orders for the 780 kit,that long.
When I finally got close to installing it the rumours of a billet third gear set started.
My transmission has been in the UK for some time now so when it gets back I can finish the DR engine.
In the mean time I am building two other bikes which as happens turned into major works in the case of the TR5T.
You know how it goes.
Until work got in the way,the DR was smashing out 17000 kms a year,it hasn't turned a wheel in anger since Jan 2011.
To put that in perspective,two rides alone put 12300 kms on the clock.
Anyone who doubts the DR's abilities is in lala land.
I might even sell the Hypermotard once it is back on the road.
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Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:53 AM   #66135
Snowy
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Yeah, it sucks when life gets in the way of living.

Every time I decide to do some major modifications I always end up with no funds for one reason or another.

That has led to a lot of improvisation. Things rarely get built the way I want them built. You have to roll with what you got.
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