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Old 06-19-2012, 06:39 AM   #66121
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
ADV8: Just curious; do you have any issues with the GSXR can heating up the right rear turn signal stalk or lens? I just put my turn signals back to stock and noticed the distance, or lack thereof, between the two. TIA.
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:41 AM   #66122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Too bad its impossible to buy one. I have been trying to buy one for 8 months or longer, as have other DR650 owners. Its not a good sign when a company can't supply a product even when there is demand. I have been in regular communication with them, they keep saying they will be ready in two weeks
I don't have a need for one, but I am a little curious as to how one will hold up long term.
It seems like a weak design to me (looking at the small areas doing the actual work), and considering the on\off torque loading cycles it will continuously see. I am just "guessing" the longevity issue is what is holding them up.
Are there any in actual use??
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:42 AM   #66123
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Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
Is that "the" hub Warp 9 uses? Not exactly what I wanted to hear.

I doubt its an RMZ "hub" but it uses the RMZ bolt pattern for the sprocket. I think if they used a specific hub to match the stock bolt patterns for every bike, the wheels would be a lot more expensive.

Motodeficient screwed with this post 06-19-2012 at 06:47 AM
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:46 AM   #66124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I sent then an email asking about availability. I looked through their site and evey make and model is outta stock, so I thought they had just hit the market and were still ramping up. It's too bad, because I was going to put one on my 400exc.
They have been around for a few years I think. Their past sprockets were problematic from what I read, with the rubber cush coming apart from the sprocket. I think the reason they have been un-available for so long is they are re-designing, re-tooling, and re-manfuacturing. Hopefully a new version will be out soon. My last contact with them was June 10th and they were in the assembly stage, hoping to have them ready within two weeks. But on May 15th they also told me within two weeks...
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:56 AM   #66125
doug s.
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Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
The dickhead comment was meant in good humour as a response to your twisting. It seems that you did not get that judging by the level of crap thrown back. It shows how small you really are.
sorry, mr 9-digits, it seems you did not understand my point that you can yust as easily end up w/"rejects" from a company that relabels goods as you can by purchasing direct.

all i did was try to help a fellow dr owner, by posting about a rotor that would fit his bike. yes, one can choose a relabeled rotor, or buy one mfr'd in europe or elsewhere, if one so chooses. but, yust cuz something is sold direct from china on ebay does not mean it is necessarily a reject. and you have done nothing but post antagonistic ignorant babble about this freaking brake rotor since i first posted about it.

and i am small because your last antagonistic ignorant babble says i am a dickhead, and i didn't recognize it as being in "good humour"? whatever..

mr small

doug s. screwed with this post 06-19-2012 at 06:57 AM Reason: typo
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:58 AM   #66126
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Anyone have any creative solutions for a steering stabilizer, maybe adapted from a different type of bike. Would like the WER stabilizer but its $400... I have seen WER stabilizers used on ebay for other dirtbikes ,but don't know if they would work on the DR650.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:18 AM   #66127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Anyone have any creative solutions for a steering stabilizer, maybe adapted from a different type of bike. Would like the WER stabilizer but its $400... I have seen WER stabilizers used on ebay for other dirtbikes ,but don't know if they would work on the DR650.
Scotts makes a kit that will work with the DR. I bought a used Scotts damper off eBay pretty cheap, and will order the mounting kit directly from Scotts. I emailed them and they said they have a kit that will work. There are two versions, the kit that is specific for the DR with stock handlebar mounts, or a universal kit that will work with bar risers (I have bar risers).
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:39 AM   #66128
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Oops nevermind....

Motodeficient screwed with this post 06-19-2012 at 11:10 AM
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:11 AM   #66129
NC Rick
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R.R., Don't let this stuff get too far in your head. The stock wheels with the stock "deathwings" are pretty good street tires. As long as the rubber isn't really old and hard those tires will stick well enough so that a good road rider, will give many sport bike guys fits on a tight twisty road. You should change from the 14 t front spriocket back to a 15, air up the tires to about 28psi and go out and enjoy your self. One of the tricks for riding a real DS bike on the pavement is to be really smooth. All the travel our bikes have means that there will be an exceptionaly large amount of weight transfer and chassis rotation entering and exiting corners. It is kinda funny when we discuss tire sizes that vary be an inch in diameter when the simple act of putting on the brakes can make the forks go down by about 5-6 inches while at the same time the rear sustension extends by around 4 inches. A 1/4 turn of the throttle can move more than 100 lbs of weight from one wheel to the other.

The trick is to be smooth getting off the brakes and transitioning to the corner and then picking up the gas smoothly once the bike is turned. Many riders will do better, not using the brakes much, just smoothly flowing through the corners. Charging corners when you are trying to go fast normally impeads the process quite a lot while upping the drama in spades . Remember slow in, fast out. Ride your ride and enjoy. Once you get the experiance, dirt riders will almost always make the best pavement riders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I would like to ask about road handling when wheel/tire diameter is changed.

I have a road trip coming up in Sept. I'm NOT a road rider. I have never been on the road more that a few miles (usually less than 5 miles)at a time for dualsport/trailriding connectivity, except once when I did 500 miles in a weekend on my cousin's BMW 1150.

I have at my disposal for this trip several tires of differing diameters. I have an 18" rear wheel in addition to my stock 17". Here's the tire brands and diameters (O.D.)

Front 21" tires

Metzeler Karoo ............................................. 26.75"
Bridgestone Trailwing (stock) ...........................27. 375
Pirelli MT 21................................................ ...27.75

Rear 17" tires

Pirelli MT 21 .................................................. 26.0
Bridgestone Trailwing (stock)........................... 24.25

Rear 18' tires
Bridgestone TW (DRZ 400 take-off).................. 26.125
Metzeler Karoo ..............................................27.0

If I was to choose the largest dia front and the smallest rear, I figure I would have a slower steering bike. conversely, the smallest dia front with the largest rear will make for a quicker steering bike. What experiences can anyone relate as to what the handling will be like with these differences and what would "you" choose for a 1000 mile adventure on the Blue Ridge Parkway, which is very twisty but the speed limit is 45MPH?

I'm not terribly hung up on the tire design but if "you" feel that a set of Trailwings is best, which rear do you feel is better?

edit: Wow, while I was typing NC Rick was kind of addressing this very issue. But that is when a smaller rim is on the front, what about if the 21" is still in place?

I also have .47 fork springs and stock rear spring and Cogent shock mod and RaceTech emulators in the fork.
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:42 PM   #66130
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
If you "need" two bikes, get two bikes. If you need one bike, the DR is really hard to beat.
I have two bikes: the other one is a KTM200 that I love, but I was getting tired of driving three hours before I could enjoy it. So the DR was a compromise, a bike with which I could explore back roads and get to places that were hard to get to with the KTM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Last time I was out on single track with the DR650 (yes, real single track) I fell a dozen times. I had almost bald "dual sport" tires and a buddy with new knobbies. It's about the most fun I can remember on a ful size bike.
I'm sorry, but this is not my idea of fun. I remember once upon a time having these masochistic urges too, but I think I have developed into a proper wimp now, and the thought of fighting the DR into submission gives me the creeps -- probably because I know that I won't win that battle!
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:09 PM   #66131
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Hey All,

It's been a while since my DR has been running (I dis-assembled the bike to have the frame powder-coated). Three questions:

1 - It's time for new plugs. Do I go with the "standard" plug - CR10E or replace the CR9E plugs that are currently in the motor (I don't know why one of the previous owners went with the "hotter" plug)?

2 - Since the motor hasn't run in ~9 months, should I shoot a little WD40 into the cylinder, thru the spark plug holes, so as to provide the rings with some lubrication?

3 - Should I "spin up" some oil pressure, with the plugs out, to get oil circulating thru the motor before attempting to fire it up (I used to do this with my auto race engines after a rebuild - the DR's motor was not rebuilt/dis-assembled. It's just been sitting)?

TIA.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:17 PM   #66132
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Update of motoman break in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Hey,
I have been reading up on the motoman break in concept on various threads on ADVrider and from other sources. I know that there is no consensus on the best way to break in a new bike, but I was wondering what folks who are advocates of the method think of it relative to the DR 650 specifically? I am planning on getting one in a month or so and am debating the traditional break in vs motoman. If I do the motoman I am contemplating getting the bike to a dyno and doing it there. The one concern I have is that the engine is of an older design and the alloys that are used are perhaps not as strong as the newer design bikes. Do some of the engineer types out there think that the DR can withstand the full throttle pulls on the dyno or perhaps a DR modified motoman method on the dyno that only hits 3/4 open pulls. Interested in thoughts. Thanks in advance.
Just to update, I just got a new 2012 last night (although still at dealer). Can't freaking wait to get on the saddle!!! Anyways, I am having the dealer truck the bike to a dyno end of this week without ever having been fired up and am going to do the "hard break in" there on the dyno. As of now, I am going to do the motoman method as he describes it on his web site, which is as follows:

On a Dyno: Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm

Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80%
of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes


Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm

Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!



Interested in what folks think of this exact process or if it should perhaps be modified for the DR. I'll let ya know how it goes. Also, not to start a riot, but what are the feelings about auto vs. motorcycle oil for this type of break in procedure? I anticipate changing the oil immediately after the dyno break in. Thanks.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:21 PM   #66133
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I don't have a need for one, but I am a little curious as to how one will hold up long term.
It seems like a weak design to me (looking at the small areas doing the actual work), and considering the on\off torque loading cycles it will continuously see. I am just "guessing" the longevity issue is what is holding them up.
Are there any in actual use??
He had some quality control issues for a while, things like bits not being cleaned properly before bonding etc.
The dampers are rated to many times the max torque of the biggest dirty bikes.
It's like TuBliss, some use them and love them, others used them and hate them, some have never used them and say it'll never work...

I've been on his mailing list for a couple of years (maybe it just seems like a couple of years) as I'd love a couple of sprockets for my 350.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:32 PM   #66134
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Interested in what folks think of this exact process or if it should perhaps be modified for the DR. I'll let ya know how it goes. Also, not to start a riot, but what are the feelings about auto vs. motorcycle oil for this type of break in procedure? I anticipate changing the oil immediately after the dyno break in. Thanks.
Just make sure you also use a lot of engine braking to slow the bike down on the dyno.

Use the oil that's in the bike and change it once it's cooled down from the last run.
Good opportunity to put a magnetic drain plug in too.

Change the oil again in a few hundred miles/km.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:33 PM   #66135
Rob_NJ
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1992 or 1998 DR650

Thanks for the responses to my last post. Lots of good info on the thread suggested.

Here's the question

I have two DR650s available locally.

1992 with around 20,000 miles that I can get for $1,300. Problems that I see are exhaust is LOUD - sounds like half a harley. Turn signals were switched to LED and either do not function or all flash - plan to replace to standard or put in the diode. Kick start only may be an issue although it did start on second kick from cold using the decomp lever.
That one is here http://cnj.craigslist.org/mcy/3015587913.html

or

1998 with 10,000 miles - spoke to owner and he is second owner had the bike for a year and to his knowledge it is totally as-built except for newer tires - no knowledge that the solid idler gear was ever replaced.

asking $2,600 will go to $2,200.

That is here

Any thoughts on prices, in line or outrageous.

Other considerations are parts availability of 92 versus 98, will parts from anything up to new fit on the 98?

Your help and expertise is greatly appreciated
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