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Old 06-21-2012, 11:23 PM   #66211
TrophyHunter
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ADV8 - Thx. I've had success with the Motion Pro tool but your concerns are interesting. I re-read the MP site description on the tool and there are a lot of things they mention that it doesn't work for. Without having my clutch to look at, I can't figure out if it's right or not. I know when I bought it, it specified on whatever site that it was for the DR...prolly auto fill computer program for a generic tool.

I like the look of the EBC so ordered one from Dennis Kirk. Thx for putting it out there.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:38 PM   #66212
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
ADV8 - Thx. I've had success with the Motion Pro tool but your concerns are interesting. I re-read the MP site description on the tool and there are a lot of things they mention that it doesn't work for. Without having my clutch to look at, I can't figure out if it's right or not. I know when I bought it, it specified on whatever site that it was for the DR...prolly auto fill computer program for a generic tool.

I like the look of the EBC so ordered one from Dennis Kirk. Thx for putting it out there.

To be truthful when I was looking for one I only knew about the Motion Pro version and did not know about the EBC tool which I only found by chance when doing a eBay search.
I got one off eBay for $19.99 plus post.

worldwide_motorcycle_equipment

I just like that it engages both the hub and basket.
I think MP address that some hubs have tapered tooth splines and others are square and perhaps that tool is better suited to a square type spline hubs (like RMZ's etc)



In the past,having the tooling needed I just made my own,no such luxury these days.



Any holder tool is better than none.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:42 PM   #66213
Snowy
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Here's a video showing a run out of the National Park near home.

Reasonably steep, hard surface with loose coating.

D952 front, Mitas E07 rear. I stay off the throttle at times because the rear is on the verge of breaking traction.

There are anti erosion humps that are pretty big, and i tend to just lift the front like I'm manualling through them and blip the throttle. This lands it flat on the upslope that the hump was carved from, usually it's like a step cut out of the face of the track.

You'll get the idea.

Standard DR suspension with gold valves and heavy springs did not do this well. Not at all.

This is the tail end of 4 hours of very similar riding. So I'm trying to get there, but not busting my ass...
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:02 AM   #66214
will_sc
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Getting paper gasket off?

Hi All,

I'm in the garage late night preparing for a longish trip tomorrow. I'm doing the cam chain tensioner and having a hell of a time getting the old gasket off. Any suggestions? I search, but didn't find consistent answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. I HAVE go on this trip tomorrow. It's to see off friends that are doing a cross country on mid 70's BMW airheads. I would almost not go than show up in a car!
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:10 AM   #66215
Snowy
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Originally Posted by will_sc View Post
Hi All,

I'm in the garage late night preparing for a longish trip tomorrow. I'm doing the cam chain tensioner and having a hell of a time getting the old gasket off. Any suggestions? I search, but didn't find consistent answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. I HAVE go on this trip tomorrow. It's to see off friends that are doing a cross country on mid 70's BMW airheads. I would almost not go than show up in a car!
I had to fix a leak on mine in a hurry a week or so ago. I used my Leathermans tool knife blade and carefully scraped off the old gasket, using the blade perpendicular to the face and scraping almost like using a straight razor, but more upright. This took the gasket off without biting into the alloy.

I used Silastic hi temp sealant and made a good bead on the tensioner and let it go off until it didn't stick to my finger, but was still soft inside (it skinned) and then bolted it all back together.

No leaks.
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:28 AM   #66216
will_sc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
I had to fix a leak on mine in a hurry a week or so ago. I used my Leathermans tool knife blade and carefully scraped off the old gasket, using the blade perpendicular to the face and scraping almost like using a straight razor, but more upright. This took the gasket off without biting into the alloy.

I used Silastic hi temp sealant and made a good bead on the tensioner and let it go off until it didn't stick to my finger, but was still soft inside (it skinned) and then bolted it all back together.

No leaks.

Thanks for the reply! Leather,an isn't quite cutting it right now. Using a razor, works, but gouges easily. At this point I haven't unbolted anything except the oil lines around the cct. Think I'm taking off the header so I can actually get to the thing. We'll see how that goes.
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:38 AM   #66217
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will_sc View Post
Thanks for the reply! Leather,an isn't quite cutting it right now. Using a razor, works, but gouges easily. At this point I haven't unbolted anything except the oil lines around the cct. Think I'm taking off the header so I can actually get to the thing. We'll see how that goes.
Yeah, I dropped the oil lines off. Doesn't take long, they have O-rings on all but the top banjo fitting.

The gaskets are a bastard to shift.

The case gaskets do the same. Bake on rock hard and shatter when you need to remove things. It's why I carry Silastic and a knife everywhere with the bike.



I break a few cases. I have 2 clutch side and 1 stator in the garage as spares right now. Rocks, they'll do that to you.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:22 AM   #66218
Thumper Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Here's a video showing a run out of the National Park near home.

Reasonably steep, hard surface with loose coating.

D952 front, Mitas E07 rear. I stay off the throttle at times because the rear is on the verge of breaking traction.

There are anti erosion humps that are pretty big, and i tend to just lift the front like I'm manualling through them and blip the throttle. This lands it flat on the upslope that the hump was carved from, usually it's like a step cut out of the face of the track.

You'll get the idea.

Standard DR suspension with gold valves and heavy springs did not do this well. Not at all.

This is the tail end of 4 hours of very similar riding. So I'm trying to get there, but not busting my ass...
Hey, that's cool footage. I wish I had something close to home like that sort of riding. The climb seemed to keep going for a long time but the DR seemed to eat it up. I need to do my suspension, as its very plush when I get into anything; all standard at the moment.

Are you allowed to ride in National Parks near your place..............or are they designated public access roads ???

on ya
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:56 AM   #66219
Snowy
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All gazetted roads. There are rules. I think I broke about 12 of them.

But you can't please every one, every time. This is Namadgi National Park. I had a good talk to the Ranger up there and he knows who I am when I go flying by. He's actually the only Ranger I've ever talked to that thinks we should have a similar access system to the US.

But he is from the US.

Locally most of the rangers will usually tell you "no trail bikes".

I've been stopped by a few who try to play all hard man. I point at the bike "registered', point at myself "licensed", point at the road "gazetted road" and wave good bye as I ride away.

I firmly believe in not negotiating with idiots. They "interpret" the legislation to suit themselves. If you stay on the marked roads and "observe the speed limit", there isn't a thing they can do. They know it, but try to bluff you out of some eco-warrior sense of do-goody crap. These were all timber plantations at one stage, Canberra was built using timber logged in the National Park, which is listed as a World Heritage Area of significance because of it's "unspoiled biodiversity" etc etc.

It makes me sick thinking about it.

There are no "unregistered trail bikes" allowed in National Parks or State Forests.

I have had a ranger threaten to get physical with me on my MTB while I was peddling through a reserve along the Murrumbidgee River. I pointed out that she might want to go and get 2 big male friends and come back, but the outcome would be the same.

Know the legislation, know your rights, take no prisoners. Never negotiate.


Otherwise, you may as well go buy some Motard wheels.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:05 AM   #66220
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post

In the past,having the tooling needed I just made my own,no such luxury these days.



Any holder tool is better than none.


For those that dont have access to machine tools, simply take an old clutch friction disc and an old clutch steel plate, drill through each one, nut & bolt it together, and now you have your very own clutch hub holding tool.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:57 AM   #66221
choccoloco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Here's a video showing a run out of the National Park near home.

Reasonably steep, hard surface with loose coating.

D952 front, Mitas E07 rear. I stay off the throttle at times because the rear is on the verge of breaking traction.

There are anti erosion humps that are pretty big, and i tend to just lift the front like I'm manualling through them and blip the throttle. This lands it flat on the upslope that the hump was carved from, usually it's like a step cut out of the face of the track.

You'll get the idea.

Standard DR suspension with gold valves and heavy springs did not do this well. Not at all.

This is the tail end of 4 hours of very similar riding. So I'm trying to get there, but not busting my ass...
Surprised to see no traffic coming down, you do that on a weekday? Weekend is a bit like the hume.

Video makes the incline look a little less.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:27 AM   #66222
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
For those that dont have access to machine tools, simply take an old clutch friction disc and an old clutch steel plate, drill through each one, nut & bolt it together, and now you have your very own clutch hub holding tool.
Beat me to it Steve. That's the way we used to do it when I had no money.

That or just a steel plate and a pair if needle nose ViseGrips.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:41 AM   #66223
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choccoloco View Post
Surprised to see no traffic coming down, you do that on a weekday? Weekend is a bit like the hume.

Video makes the incline look a little less.
You have to time it right. It's on a Sunday early afternoon (edit, I checked the shadows from the trees and I'd say it's early afternoon, not late morning). Any earlier you get them on the way in, any later you get them on the way out. I can usually dodge most of them by timing the loops right.

Weekdays are great except you're likely to get carried away by the lack of traffic, come banging around a corner and the Forestry guys have dug a 6 foot deep trench across the track to replace a pipe, and then gone and sat in the sun to have lunch.

Only happened once. I've been wary since.

To be honest, you can go a lot faster out here and have a great time, but it is National Park, there are other players around, and trees hurt when you hit them.

I haven't had many big hits up there, and I've ridden out after every one. Broken 2 helmets in 6 months here and way out in the hills. Didn't feel well, but rode home each time after some running repairs.

This time of year, ice and roos are the big danger. The black wallabies will try to go through your front wheel. I don't think they see the spokes. I've run over, kicked, clipped or been rammed by about 12 black wallabies in the last couple of years. I clipped 3 in about 400ms at 100kph one morning. A last second front and rear simultaneous lockup saw them miss the front wheel and I just touched their tails. They actually aim for you. The males are trying to draw you away from the females by cutting close across the "predators" nose.

One tried to dive through the front wheel at about 70kph and a well timed joust with the right boot caught him behind the ear and put him under the back wheel. Didn't even slow him down and a few hundred metres later he tried it again further down the hill.

In winter I wait until 10am before riding. You watch going from sunlight to shade, as the track can go from soft and wet to frozen. Carry wet weather gear in winter. I had it rain, sleet, snow, hail, then rain, and snow again in one ride. I had no wet weather gear and was soaked and frozen right out near Wee Jasper. Stupidly I decided to push on and finish a big 200km trail loop. By the time I got home hypothermia had really set in and my core temp had dropped badly. Cold water was burning when I got in the shower, and luke warm felt like a flame thrower on me.

I got another vid here somewhere.

Snowy screwed with this post 06-22-2012 at 08:16 AM
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:46 AM   #66224
Snowy
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Here it is. Down to the Huts. Last 5 mins.

I have more of it at a fair bit higher pace somewhere.



Warning: I swear. A lot. I'm an Ex Grunt and an Ex Dock worker. That kind. Make a truckies ears turn blue kind.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:14 AM   #66225
Bronco638
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Nobody had any thoughts or advice on this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
Hey All,

It's been a while since my DR has been running (I dis-assembled the bike to have the frame powder-coated). Three questions:

1 - It's time for new plugs. Do I go with the "standard" plug - CR10E or replace the CR9E plugs that are currently in the motor (I don't know why one of the previous owners went with the "hotter" plug)?

2 - Since the motor hasn't run in ~9 months, should I shoot a little WD40 into the cylinder, thru the spark plug holes, so as to provide the rings with some lubrication?

3 - Should I "spin up" some oil pressure, with the plugs out, to get oil circulating thru the motor before attempting to fire it up (I used to do this with my auto race engines after a rebuild - the DR's motor was not rebuilt/dis-assembled. It's just been sitting)?

TIA.
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