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Old 06-21-2012, 05:22 PM   #66211
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralfmuller View Post
All makes perfect sense - this is how it is wired up (minus the resistors) on the top end:



Should all work just fine - but as per my previous post, rear right just will not work (cabling etc. to the indicator all checked also).

The flasher relay is designed to operate with a certain amount of resistance (2 incandescent bulbs). If the resistance changes (normally because a bulb burns out), then the flasher relay doubles the flash speed to alert the rider that one of the bulbs has burned out. The resistors are important for proper operation. Put them in, and then let us know if the problem is fixed.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:12 PM   #66212
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
So the washers in question are actually part of the starter motor unit? I was keeping a sharp eye out for any dropped bits and pieces, but all I am doing is taking the starter motor out and handing it over to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Worst case scenario is a new starter motor. I'm told the thing costs AUD800 and there are no aftermarket options. At 4,000km on the clock that seems a bit unfair.
I don't remember anything falling loose when I removed my starter from the right side of the bike (under the exhaust). Did the starter fail or is it just making noise? 4000km isn't many miles at all, did you say what year the bike is? An older bike, parked outside could explain the early failure.

There is one washer that tries to escape when removing the stator cover, #5 here: (a teaching moment; not an issue for you)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Ahh, I see. Two TDC positions, you say.

So, given that I have already ripped the thing off and now have only a 50/50 chance of having picked the correct TDC, am I quite possibly f*cked?

The one I picked seemed to have a blue stripe next to the engaved line, if that means anything. How can I tell if it is the correct TDC? What can I do to save the situation if it turns out I picked the wrong one?
Since there were so many of us that didn't even know about the TDC issue, your chances are very good that nothing bad is going to happen. If you'd like to know (and haven't rotated the engine), you could remove the rocker covers and try to move the rocker arms, side to side on the shaft (you probably won't feel the .005 up-n-down cause it's soaked in oil). If they wiggle (maybe .015") you're good. If they're tight, they're on the over-lap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
EXCEPT

It's about 98 degrees here today. When I tapped the front brake, I got a loud click. I checked it out and there is rotational play in the disc. The six bushings that the disc floats on are kinda loose. (I know they should be somewhat loose) I would say I have about 1 degree of rotational play and it clicks or ticks loudly when I tap the front brake. It even did it when all was at ambient temps. Is this because it's almost 100 degrees out or am I noticing something that's been there all along?? Or, worst case, something worn out?
Both my oem rotor and the new 320mm are both held pretty tight on their bushings with the spring washers. Have a close look at the spring washers on the back side, a few may have sacked out, or broken?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutiny! View Post
Thanks for that explanation!

Is there a way to tell if I have picked the correct TDC?

If I go ahead and optimistically assume that I have, is there a way to tell if I have jumped a cam chain tooth? If that has occurred, will I mince my engine by attepting to start it up?
As I said above, you can remove the rocker covers and feel for movement. Again, many of us have made this mistake and our motors lived. Just make sure the plunger is retracted when re-installing the CCT and then remember to release it.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:35 PM   #66213
Emmbeedee
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Motion Pro Clutch Vise Grips:

How am I supposed to use them? I had a quick look, putting the tool on the basket the way it came, and it looks like it's not going to hold unless I put a fair amount of pressure on the hub, but I don't want to damage it. Should I be grinding down the tangs on the end so they're a little smaller and will engage the clutch inner basket better?

Help?
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:41 PM   #66214
slowleego
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Thanks...

Mongle,

You 'da man. I'll try that.

Cheers......
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:51 PM   #66215
TrophyHunter
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If you're talking about these, they seem odd to fit correctly but work. I was concerned about snapping things if I got 'em too tight, too. I put them on firmly - which is a "feel" thing and hard to explain. I work into the tension slowly by snapping them closed, feel if it's going to hold when I try to spin the basket holding nut and maybe pop 'em off and turn the adjuster in a half turn and repeat. I'm sorry I can't explain it better but just go slow at it. No grinding necessary.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:06 PM   #66216
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post


If you're talking about these, they seem odd to fit correctly but work. I was concerned about snapping things if I got 'em too tight, too. I put them on firmly - which is a "feel" thing and hard to explain. I work into the tension slowly by snapping them closed, feel if it's going to hold when I try to spin the basket holding nut and maybe pop 'em off and turn the adjuster in a half turn and repeat. I'm sorry I can't explain it better but just go slow at it. No grinding necessary.
Yeah, those are what I'm asking about. I guess I'll just try it again and see. Glad to hear no grinding is necessary.

Thanks.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:09 PM   #66217
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Motion Pro Clutch Vise Grips:

Help?
They are not designed for the DR type hub spline and are dubious at best. (imo)
EBC make a holder for under $20.
If you already have them a little late.

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Old 06-21-2012, 08:18 PM   #66218
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
They are not designed for the DR type hub spline and are dubious at best. (imo)
EBC make a holder for under $20.
If you already have them a little late.

Argh, that looks much more useful. What kind of spline is the MP tool made for? More like the flat slots than the round ones on the DR?
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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:23 PM   #66219
TrophyHunter
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ADV8 - Thx. I've had success with the Motion Pro tool but your concerns are interesting. I re-read the MP site description on the tool and there are a lot of things they mention that it doesn't work for. Without having my clutch to look at, I can't figure out if it's right or not. I know when I bought it, it specified on whatever site that it was for the DR...prolly auto fill computer program for a generic tool.

I like the look of the EBC so ordered one from Dennis Kirk. Thx for putting it out there.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:38 PM   #66220
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
ADV8 - Thx. I've had success with the Motion Pro tool but your concerns are interesting. I re-read the MP site description on the tool and there are a lot of things they mention that it doesn't work for. Without having my clutch to look at, I can't figure out if it's right or not. I know when I bought it, it specified on whatever site that it was for the DR...prolly auto fill computer program for a generic tool.

I like the look of the EBC so ordered one from Dennis Kirk. Thx for putting it out there.

To be truthful when I was looking for one I only knew about the Motion Pro version and did not know about the EBC tool which I only found by chance when doing a eBay search.
I got one off eBay for $19.99 plus post.

worldwide_motorcycle_equipment

I just like that it engages both the hub and basket.
I think MP address that some hubs have tapered tooth splines and others are square and perhaps that tool is better suited to a square type spline hubs (like RMZ's etc)



In the past,having the tooling needed I just made my own,no such luxury these days.



Any holder tool is better than none.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:42 PM   #66221
Snowy
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Here's a video showing a run out of the National Park near home.

Reasonably steep, hard surface with loose coating.

D952 front, Mitas E07 rear. I stay off the throttle at times because the rear is on the verge of breaking traction.

There are anti erosion humps that are pretty big, and i tend to just lift the front like I'm manualling through them and blip the throttle. This lands it flat on the upslope that the hump was carved from, usually it's like a step cut out of the face of the track.

You'll get the idea.

Standard DR suspension with gold valves and heavy springs did not do this well. Not at all.

This is the tail end of 4 hours of very similar riding. So I'm trying to get there, but not busting my ass...
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:02 PM   #66222
will_sc
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Getting paper gasket off?

Hi All,

I'm in the garage late night preparing for a longish trip tomorrow. I'm doing the cam chain tensioner and having a hell of a time getting the old gasket off. Any suggestions? I search, but didn't find consistent answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. I HAVE go on this trip tomorrow. It's to see off friends that are doing a cross country on mid 70's BMW airheads. I would almost not go than show up in a car!
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:10 PM   #66223
Snowy
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Originally Posted by will_sc View Post
Hi All,

I'm in the garage late night preparing for a longish trip tomorrow. I'm doing the cam chain tensioner and having a hell of a time getting the old gasket off. Any suggestions? I search, but didn't find consistent answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. I HAVE go on this trip tomorrow. It's to see off friends that are doing a cross country on mid 70's BMW airheads. I would almost not go than show up in a car!
I had to fix a leak on mine in a hurry a week or so ago. I used my Leathermans tool knife blade and carefully scraped off the old gasket, using the blade perpendicular to the face and scraping almost like using a straight razor, but more upright. This took the gasket off without biting into the alloy.

I used Silastic hi temp sealant and made a good bead on the tensioner and let it go off until it didn't stick to my finger, but was still soft inside (it skinned) and then bolted it all back together.

No leaks.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:28 PM   #66224
will_sc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
I had to fix a leak on mine in a hurry a week or so ago. I used my Leathermans tool knife blade and carefully scraped off the old gasket, using the blade perpendicular to the face and scraping almost like using a straight razor, but more upright. This took the gasket off without biting into the alloy.

I used Silastic hi temp sealant and made a good bead on the tensioner and let it go off until it didn't stick to my finger, but was still soft inside (it skinned) and then bolted it all back together.

No leaks.

Thanks for the reply! Leather,an isn't quite cutting it right now. Using a razor, works, but gouges easily. At this point I haven't unbolted anything except the oil lines around the cct. Think I'm taking off the header so I can actually get to the thing. We'll see how that goes.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:38 PM   #66225
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will_sc View Post
Thanks for the reply! Leather,an isn't quite cutting it right now. Using a razor, works, but gouges easily. At this point I haven't unbolted anything except the oil lines around the cct. Think I'm taking off the header so I can actually get to the thing. We'll see how that goes.
Yeah, I dropped the oil lines off. Doesn't take long, they have O-rings on all but the top banjo fitting.

The gaskets are a bastard to shift.

The case gaskets do the same. Bake on rock hard and shatter when you need to remove things. It's why I carry Silastic and a knife everywhere with the bike.



I break a few cases. I have 2 clutch side and 1 stator in the garage as spares right now. Rocks, they'll do that to you.
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