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Old 06-22-2012, 09:32 AM   #66226
smilin jack
Grandpa Adventurer
 
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,226
244 Shinko

Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I spent a week trying to get used to this shinko 244 5.10-17 on the rear of my DR and man, that thing is squirelly. Gravel, and asphalt, the rear just never seems planted. I usually run a Shinko 705 or a Heindenau K60 on the rear, and a K60 on the front. Anyone knows if this is normal, or is the size of the tire making my steering seem weird? I did notice that the 244 seems to make my bike seem taller.
Thanks,
dljocky,

Ready for my fourth set of 244 Shinko tires. They work OK and do have a "little corner walk" with the knobs, but am happy with them as the price is right.

They last nearly 1/2 a year (~ 5 to 6K) if ridden like a grandpa... and only 1500 miles riding hard.

Yes, I'll keep running them on the DR.

Dave
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #66227
bundy bruiser
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Queensland, Australia
Oddometer: 6
bigger footpegs

I already have lowering plates for the standard pegs, I saw the pro cycle ones.
I dont like the pivot pegs, any other ideas?
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:30 AM   #66228
Albie
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,199
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
For those that dont have access to machine tools, simply take an old clutch friction disc and an old clutch steel plate, drill through each one, nut & bolt it together, and now you have your very own clutch hub holding tool.
Good tip!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:40 AM   #66229
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Nobody had any thoughts or advice on this?
1 - It's time for new plugs. Do I go with the "standard" plug - CR10E or replace the CR9E plugs that are currently in the motor (I don't know why one of the previous owners went with the "hotter" plug)?

2 - Since the motor hasn't run in ~9 months, should I shoot a little WD40 into the cylinder, thru the spark plug holes, so as to provide the rings with some lubrication?

3 - Should I "spin up" some oil pressure, with the plugs out, to get oil circulating thru the motor before attempting to fire it up (I used to do this with my auto race engines after a rebuild - the DR's motor was not rebuilt/dis-assembled. It's just been sitting)?


1. I would go with the standard plug. If you have fouling issues they may be caused by something else the the PO was just masking a problem.

2 & 3. I'm not for putting anything liquid in the cylinder. You could hydraulic the bike, foul the plugs right off the bat and force contaminants past the rings into the oil. BUT- If you do spray something in there DEFFINATELY spin the bike over with the plugs out. This will get any excess wd-40 or whatever out before you try starting the bike. And keep the plugs fresh. It isn't a bad idea to crank the bike with the plugs out to get some oil flowing. The mains are usually the first thing to get oil so you shouldn't have to crank it long. Don't go crazy on the starter button. If the battery goes dead or the starter is glowing you probably went too long.

Edit: Almost forgot- DO NOT spray anything with silcone type lubricant in the cylinder. If you do you will be putting new rings in it.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:34 AM   #66230
dljocky
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Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 853
Thanks Dave,
I'm going on another trip next month, I'll throw them back on, and give 'em another try.





Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
dljocky,

Ready for my fourth set of 244 Shinko tires. They work OK and do have a "little corner walk" with the knobs, but am happy with them as the price is right.

They last nearly 1/2 a year (~ 5 to 6K) if ridden like a grandpa... and only 1500 miles riding hard.

Yes, I'll keep running them on the DR.

Dave
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:41 AM   #66231
Rumlover
Ed
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Edit: Almost forgot- DO NOT spray anything with silcone type lubricant in the cylinder. If you do you will be putting new rings in it.
Why?


Thanks
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:58 PM   #66232
PHILinFRANCE
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
Oddometer: 1,119
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsVs View Post
hey PHIL ...

Just as a data point .... what year and how many miles are on your DR ??

Thanks ..
Hi GsVs
She's a 96 with 37,000 kms ........23000 miles , after finding one of the bolts on the magnetic sump plug it's one of the first jobs i'd do on another DR , it's a real ball ache but better than a destroyed engine.
Phil
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:15 PM   #66233
yokesman
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Joined: Sep 2008
Oddometer: 495
rusty
wd40 is nothing but solvent and mineral oil, no lubrication factor(but sure can clean well) I always just use the oil that is normally used , crank it a few to get the oil flowing anf the excess oil out, plug it and run. never run dry, including any seals.

oil is a beautiful if ya don't think so just see what it looks like without it.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:22 PM   #66234
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Why?


Thanks
On new rings/bore the silicone prevents proper break in of the ring to bore. I've seen guys use silicone based lubricants (Permatex sells some) in the bores to keep them from rusting until the motor was together. Then they would have massive amounts of oil consumption and blow by due to the rings not breaking in properly. Silicone doesn't seem to want to burn either so it hangs in there never letting the rings seat. The silicone is a pain in the ass to get out of a standard steel bore too. My hone won't even cut material if someone sprayed silicone in the bore..pisses me off because I have to throw the stones away then- pull the block back out and clean it with something like Acetone.

On an engine that is already broke in- I don't know for a fact that it would hurt anything, but I wouldn't be the one to try it on my motor. No sense in making more problems for ones self when there are other products that are oil based.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:21 PM   #66235
cemory
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Topeka, Ks
Oddometer: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by bundy bruiser View Post
Hello,
I have been lurking for years finally thought I would post
I have a '10 DR and I am looking at getting some bigger foot pegs.
I am looking at the IMS superstock ones, are these any bigger than the standard pegs?
What other options is there, I looked on ebay without much luck.
Cheers
I have been using a set of these for over a year now and find them much more comfortable to the feet due to their wider construction. Cheap too.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR-25...14278c&vxp=mtr
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:27 PM   #66236
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,968
been REAL happy with NGK iridium plugs over the copper version.
bike runs better & starts easier.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#engine



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
1 - It's time for new plugs. Do I go with the "standard" plug - CR10E or replace the CR9E plugs that are currently in the motor (I don't know why one of the previous owners went with the "hotter" plug)?

2 - Since the motor hasn't run in ~9 months, should I shoot a little WD40 into the cylinder, thru the spark plug holes, so as to provide the rings with some lubrication?


3 - Should I "spin up" some oil pressure, with the plugs out, to get oil circulating thru the motor before attempting to fire it up (I used to do this with my auto race engines after a rebuild - the DR's motor was
not rebuilt/dis-assembled. It's just been sitting)?

Numbers 2 & 3 are good ideas. You should use a couple drops of gearbox oil instead of wd 40 IMO.
as to item 1, one number in heat range on a plug can reall hurt anything. leave it if you want, go back if you have the chance or ar gonna replace the plugs any way.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:50 PM   #66237
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Oddometer: 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
been REAL happy with NGK iridium plugs over the copper version.
bike runs better & starts easier.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#engine

I called and talked ot the tech at NGK and he recommended upgrading to the iridium, but not using the dual electrode. I honestly can't remember why he said not to use them, but at the time he convinced me!
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:58 PM   #66238
ADV8
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,227
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
For those that dont have access to machine tools, simply take an old clutch friction disc and an old clutch steel plate, drill through each one, nut & bolt it together, and now you have your very own clutch hub holding tool.
What stops the engine turning ?
That is a clutch basket to hub locking tool,you still need a arm off that to rest on the crank shaft snout to stop the clutch turning... fwiw.

These were old plates though with the socket accessible through the hole in the plate.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...lutch/CLT8.jpg
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:41 PM   #66239
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,273
Quote:
Originally Posted by bundy bruiser View Post
I already have lowering plates for the standard pegs, I saw the pro cycle ones.
I dont like the pivot pegs, any other ideas?
I use the Fastways on my DR and Berg. Useful ability to set them up high or low, and can be adjusted for 'camber' too. Nice pegs. Can get them here in Oz from Ballards.

Steve
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:11 PM   #66240
johnkol
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Sorry for the late reply, been busy this week and just catching up.
Wow, GaThumper, that was a long note, filled with great information; I know it must have taken you considerable time and effort, so thank you for this, I really appreciate it!

I really enjoy the DR on twisty roads: the power is fine, the suspension behaves reasonably well (as long as there are no stutter bumps), and the tyres are predictable and stick quite well. What I don't enjoy with the DR is droning on flat, straight roads, and unfortunately for me, I have to be on such roads for more than 2 hours before I reach the curvy bits.

The stock seat is fine, I have spent 9 hours on it without any problems -- I could easily do multiple such days with no issues. Having said that, the narrower seat on my KTM is more enjoyable, so this is an additional advantage the EXC potentially has over the DR.

I agree, the right bike makes you feel like a hero. But more than that, it allows you to develop into a better rider. Trying to subdue an unruly bike is not my idea of fun, and not the way to acquire more skills. Once I experienced how big a role the bike plays, I became very uninterested in riding any motorcycle that did not click with me.

I looked at the Huskies you mention, but apart from the 610/630, they all come with very close-ratio transmissions, which severely limits their functionality on the road. As far as I can tell, the EXCs are the only bikes with a wide-ratio box appropriate for highway droning.

I also looked at the latest 250 offerings, and I was ambivalent about their horsepower, particularly for highway use. But you do have a point, that most of the comments about these bikes come from people that are a lot heavier than I am, and for people of my weight a 250 would be adequate.

Which brings me to another problem with the DR that I just realised: I have been setting sag using the well-known guidelines of 30%-35% of overall suspension travel, but these rules are for straight-rate (linear) springs, not progressive ones like on the DR. I presume for progressive springs the sag should be more, but I don't know how much more. Whatever it is though, I already cannot achieve the recommended sag values: at the lowest fork preload the race sag is only 70mm -- and I don't think that anyone makes a linear spring softer than the stock one.

One thing is certain: there's a lot of DR experimentation in my future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Oh, one more observation for you. I HATE the DR650 on loose gravel.
Yes, loose gravel is what I encountered. I have been on similar roads for all my riding life and I never had a problem with them, but with the DR and the 705s it was an experience that I do not want to repeat -- the slides were not the controlled kind.

Thanks again!
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