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Old 06-22-2012, 01:22 PM   #66226
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Why?


Thanks
On new rings/bore the silicone prevents proper break in of the ring to bore. I've seen guys use silicone based lubricants (Permatex sells some) in the bores to keep them from rusting until the motor was together. Then they would have massive amounts of oil consumption and blow by due to the rings not breaking in properly. Silicone doesn't seem to want to burn either so it hangs in there never letting the rings seat. The silicone is a pain in the ass to get out of a standard steel bore too. My hone won't even cut material if someone sprayed silicone in the bore..pisses me off because I have to throw the stones away then- pull the block back out and clean it with something like Acetone.

On an engine that is already broke in- I don't know for a fact that it would hurt anything, but I wouldn't be the one to try it on my motor. No sense in making more problems for ones self when there are other products that are oil based.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:21 PM   #66227
cemory
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Topeka, Ks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bundy bruiser View Post
Hello,
I have been lurking for years finally thought I would post
I have a '10 DR and I am looking at getting some bigger foot pegs.
I am looking at the IMS superstock ones, are these any bigger than the standard pegs?
What other options is there, I looked on ebay without much luck.
Cheers
I have been using a set of these for over a year now and find them much more comfortable to the feet due to their wider construction. Cheap too.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR-25...14278c&vxp=mtr
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:27 PM   #66228
eakins
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been REAL happy with NGK iridium plugs over the copper version.
bike runs better & starts easier.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#engine



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
1 - It's time for new plugs. Do I go with the "standard" plug - CR10E or replace the CR9E plugs that are currently in the motor (I don't know why one of the previous owners went with the "hotter" plug)?

2 - Since the motor hasn't run in ~9 months, should I shoot a little WD40 into the cylinder, thru the spark plug holes, so as to provide the rings with some lubrication?


3 - Should I "spin up" some oil pressure, with the plugs out, to get oil circulating thru the motor before attempting to fire it up (I used to do this with my auto race engines after a rebuild - the DR's motor was
not rebuilt/dis-assembled. It's just been sitting)?

Numbers 2 & 3 are good ideas. You should use a couple drops of gearbox oil instead of wd 40 IMO.
as to item 1, one number in heat range on a plug can reall hurt anything. leave it if you want, go back if you have the chance or ar gonna replace the plugs any way.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:50 PM   #66229
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
been REAL happy with NGK iridium plugs over the copper version.
bike runs better & starts easier.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#engine

I called and talked ot the tech at NGK and he recommended upgrading to the iridium, but not using the dual electrode. I honestly can't remember why he said not to use them, but at the time he convinced me!
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:58 PM   #66230
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
For those that dont have access to machine tools, simply take an old clutch friction disc and an old clutch steel plate, drill through each one, nut & bolt it together, and now you have your very own clutch hub holding tool.
What stops the engine turning ?
That is a clutch basket to hub locking tool,you still need a arm off that to rest on the crank shaft snout to stop the clutch turning... fwiw.

These were old plates though with the socket accessible through the hole in the plate.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...lutch/CLT8.jpg
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:41 PM   #66231
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bundy bruiser View Post
I already have lowering plates for the standard pegs, I saw the pro cycle ones.
I dont like the pivot pegs, any other ideas?
I use the Fastways on my DR and Berg. Useful ability to set them up high or low, and can be adjusted for 'camber' too. Nice pegs. Can get them here in Oz from Ballards.

Steve
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:11 PM   #66232
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Sorry for the late reply, been busy this week and just catching up.
Wow, GaThumper, that was a long note, filled with great information; I know it must have taken you considerable time and effort, so thank you for this, I really appreciate it!

I really enjoy the DR on twisty roads: the power is fine, the suspension behaves reasonably well (as long as there are no stutter bumps), and the tyres are predictable and stick quite well. What I don't enjoy with the DR is droning on flat, straight roads, and unfortunately for me, I have to be on such roads for more than 2 hours before I reach the curvy bits.

The stock seat is fine, I have spent 9 hours on it without any problems -- I could easily do multiple such days with no issues. Having said that, the narrower seat on my KTM is more enjoyable, so this is an additional advantage the EXC potentially has over the DR.

I agree, the right bike makes you feel like a hero. But more than that, it allows you to develop into a better rider. Trying to subdue an unruly bike is not my idea of fun, and not the way to acquire more skills. Once I experienced how big a role the bike plays, I became very uninterested in riding any motorcycle that did not click with me.

I looked at the Huskies you mention, but apart from the 610/630, they all come with very close-ratio transmissions, which severely limits their functionality on the road. As far as I can tell, the EXCs are the only bikes with a wide-ratio box appropriate for highway droning.

I also looked at the latest 250 offerings, and I was ambivalent about their horsepower, particularly for highway use. But you do have a point, that most of the comments about these bikes come from people that are a lot heavier than I am, and for people of my weight a 250 would be adequate.

Which brings me to another problem with the DR that I just realised: I have been setting sag using the well-known guidelines of 30%-35% of overall suspension travel, but these rules are for straight-rate (linear) springs, not progressive ones like on the DR. I presume for progressive springs the sag should be more, but I don't know how much more. Whatever it is though, I already cannot achieve the recommended sag values: at the lowest fork preload the race sag is only 70mm -- and I don't think that anyone makes a linear spring softer than the stock one.

One thing is certain: there's a lot of DR experimentation in my future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Oh, one more observation for you. I HATE the DR650 on loose gravel.
Yes, loose gravel is what I encountered. I have been on similar roads for all my riding life and I never had a problem with them, but with the DR and the 705s it was an experience that I do not want to repeat -- the slides were not the controlled kind.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:22 PM   #66233
N.dica
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Joined: Nov 2010
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TM40 resolution

Well the guys at Procycle have repaired my carb and it arrived today. I want to say thank you to them and I appreciate the fast turnaround. I think in all it took only a week for me to send it to them, for them to fix it, and then to receive it back. Sweet. Cheers fellas!

Now naturally I reinstalled it today and hit the road. THAT is what I was expecting to feel from this carb. I definitely wasn't getting a clear picture before. My engine temperatures are down, the jetting is perfect, minimal popping on decel, and wicked throttle response. As stated previously, my old carb was dialed in, and whereas I couldn't tell much difference between the BST and the TM40 before, now that the TM40 has the vacuum leak sorted I absolutely notice the difference. The responsiveness and smoothness is striking. Funny how such a small vacuum leak can throw the whole thing out of whack. Anyway Im stoked.

Still doing the big bore, but it is put off one more week as I just received my X40F0X from an Englishman over Ebay. I swear the thing is immaculate- it looks like it was never even used once. So between that and the jesse adapter kit I just ordered, the 790 will have to wait just a bit longer.

With all the money I have dumped into my bike there could easily be the argument made that I could have bought a KTM or whatever..... But Im happy I went this route. My DR kills it on the tarmac, and Ive taken her on some flat-out gnarly trails and shes devoured them. With the right mods, the performance offroad is superb, especially considering shes like a bat out of hell on the pavement as well. Shes completely customed out to my taste, and I could for the most part tear her apart and fix anything thats wrong myself. I like being able to depend on myself as mechanic when lost in the wilderness. Gives you a great deal of confidence. And above all, its just plain fun to tinker away in the garage. A great, albeit addictive and expensive hobby.

Cheers all, and thanks again to Drum, Carl, and all the guys at Procycle for being so damned professional:)
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:46 PM   #66234
rutsthematter
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Location: Drouin, Gippsland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bundy bruiser View Post
I already have lowering plates for the standard pegs, I saw the pro cycle ones.
I dont like the pivot pegs, any other ideas?

If you look in the Ballards catalogue (Page 41) they have footpeg wideners that you can weld on. I have some coming to try.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #66235
kobukan
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Looks like this might be a decent deal on a Safari tank if anyone's looking for one.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:50 PM   #66236
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post

What I don't enjoy with the DR is droning on flat, straight roads, and unfortunately for me, I have to be on such roads for more than 2 hours before I reach the curvy bits.
I haven't found a bike yet that I enjoy long straight roads on. The closest I come to enjoying them is on my Yamaha 1300cc V4 Venture with electronic cruise control, stereo, and full fairing! Around here I realize we are blessed with lot's of great motorcycle roads and the ability to avoid most interstates and other long straight drones with a little route planning.

As far as the dual sports, I can't imagine ANY of them being fun on long boring stretches of asphalt.

It's sounding like maybe a KTM 450exc would be a good bike for you to try, Maybe you could find someone locally to try one out and see. And I wonder how the new Yamaha WR250R might work for you? Seems to be a really popular new entry, but it weighs as much (or more( than the KTM!

Here's an early test I was just looking at. Of course, there are some good threads here to look at, too.

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/rev...50r-23644.html

Good Luck with your quest, and remember, enjoy the journey!

P.S. Not due 'till 2013, but check out the KTM Freeride 350. About 220 pounds and Very Interesting!
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GaThumper screwed with this post 06-22-2012 at 05:58 PM
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:02 PM   #66237
NorCal Jeff
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Location: Scott Valley Northern Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
I called and talked ot the tech at NGK and he recommended upgrading to the iridium, but not using the dual electrode. I honestly can't remember why he said not to use them, but at the time he convinced me!
I installed the Iridiums..makes a big difference in the butt dyno..I recommend them..
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:09 PM   #66238
bundy bruiser
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Queensland, Australia
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footpegs

Thanks for all the replies regarding bigger footpegs.
Thanks for that link Cemony, I went with a set of those
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:35 PM   #66239
Lil' Steve
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: NYC, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
What stops the engine turning ?
That is a clutch basket to hub locking tool,you still need a arm off that to rest on the crank shaft snout to stop the clutch turning... fwiw.

These were old plates though with the socket accessible through the hole in the plate.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...lutch/CLT8.jpg

Place the trans in gear, use breaker bar or impact wrench on the nut.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:39 PM   #66240
Jon_PDX
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Clackamas, OR - USA
Oddometer: 1,106
Quote:
Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
Well the guys at Procycle have repaired my carb and it arrived today. I want to say thank you to them and I appreciate the fast turnaround. I think in all it took only a week for me to send it to them, for them to fix it, and then to receive it back. Sweet. Cheers fellas!

Now naturally I reinstalled it today and hit the road. THAT is what I was expecting to feel from this carb. I definitely wasn't getting a clear picture before. My engine temperatures are down, the jetting is perfect, minimal popping on decel, and wicked throttle response. As stated previously, my old carb was dialed in, and whereas I couldn't tell much difference between the BST and the TM40 before, now that the TM40 has the vacuum leak sorted I absolutely notice the difference. The responsiveness and smoothness is striking. Funny how such a small vacuum leak can throw the whole thing out of whack. Anyway Im stoked.

.......snip rest..........

Cheers all, and thanks again to Drum, Carl, and all the guys at Procycle for being so damned professional:)
That's great news.....thanks for posting the followup.

Jon...
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