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Old 06-23-2012, 12:14 PM   #66271
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjcarving View Post
I think it drops it 300 if you are using the stock 15T sprocket. Would be more so for you as you are using the 14T. I'm sure someone else will chime in.
Yes, the 300 rpm drop is going from a 15T to a 16T sprocket.
At 75mph, RPMs will drop by 600-700rpm going from a 14 tooth to a 16 tooth front sprocket.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:32 PM   #66272
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
This supports my assertion that the big valve head is not included in the Big Bore charts.
I would think so simply because that would be dishonest. (780 and 790 which has no chart?)
I very much doubt Procycle would do that.
The only chart for the big bore and bigger valves is the 725.
It is suggesting that configuration makes similar HP to the bigger engines with stock valves.


http://www.procycle.us/images/dyno/d...725-780-hp.jpg

http://www.procycle.us/images/dyno/d...725-780-tq.jpg

Verses.

http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...50/bvhdyno.jpg

http://www.procycle.us/images/bikepa...bvhdyno-tq.jpg

I would think seat of the pants is what it is all about and real world riding.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:35 PM   #66273
greener556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Yes, the 300 rpm drop is going from a 15T to a 16T sprocket.
At 75mph, RPMs will drop by 600-700rpm going from a 14 tooth to a 16 tooth front sprocket.

What's the difference between a 15 and a 14??

About the same I assume, 300 rpm's?
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:10 PM   #66274
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
I would think so simply because that would be dishonest. (780 and 790 which has no chart?)
I very much doubt Procycle would do that.
The only chart for the big bore and bigger valves is the 725.
It is suggesting that configuration makes similar HP to the bigger engines with stock valves.
I wasn't implying dishonesty from Procycle. All I've heard about them is positive.
I was just combating Doug S's assertion that, "according to jeff at procycle, the 725 and the 780 dyno charts both include upgraded cams and big walve heads."
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:13 PM   #66275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greener556 View Post
What's the difference between a 15 and a 14??

About the same I assume, 300 rpm's?
Yep!

http://www.gearingcommander.com
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:28 PM   #66276
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
The charts for the Big Bore Kit do include the upgraded cams and says so in the Q&A. The Big Bore Kit charts do not include the Big Valve Head.
In the Big Valve Head Charts, the base 725cc line matches the Big Bore 725cc line in the Big Bore chart. The 725cc w/Big Valve Head output is higher. This supports my assertion that the big valve head is not included in the Big Bore charts.

Also, Hp = (Tq x RPM) / 5252. The horsepower increase is exactly proportional to the Horsepower increase.
Yes, the torque is the DR's strong suit since it can't run high rpms due to heat, but Torque isn't used in those theoretical calculations for top speed - Horsepower is. And, 54 Hp plus another 10% for a big valve head would let the DR beat a 690 - in a drag race....
the fact that jeff at procycle specifically told me that the dyno chart of the 780 motor does include the big walve head as well as the upgrade cam, supports my assertion that the 780 dyno chart includes the big walve head.

i queried procycle directly, because the info on the procycle site is a little ambiguous, imo...

doug s.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:36 PM   #66277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
I wasn't implying dishonesty from Procycle. All I've heard about them is positive.
I was just combating Doug S's assertion that, "according to jeff at procycle, the 725 and the 780 dyno charts both include upgraded cams and big walve heads."
again, i am not making up the story that jeff told me the 780 dyno chart was w/the big walve head. he told me it did. mebbe he's mistaken?

i agree, it's a little confusing. my assumption was the same as yours - it seemed to me that the 780 dyno chart would be w/o the big head, for yust the reasons you mention. so i queried jeff to be sure, as it is not clear on the procycle site.

i also was hoping that i could realize the power shown on the dyno charts w/o the big inwestment in the big-walve heads. i was almost tempted to do it. and that if i were somehow in a position to get the heads, that the power gains would be even greater. it seems it is not the case, and that power w/o the upgrade head will be less than shown on the dyno chart...

doug s.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:46 PM   #66278
MarkGS
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This is embarrassing to admit but I need to ask about it. I wore the front brake pads all the way down to the metal, and I didn't notice it until the braking action started to get "sticky" from 5 to 0 mph. I replaced the pads, but I am wondering about the rotor. I would describe part of the surface as "rough" (presumably where metal was rubbing on metal) versus the normal smooth feeling surface of the rotor. Is this automatic grounds for replacing the rotor? Or is the answer "it depends?"
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:22 PM   #66279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post

Theory #2: a lean fuel mixture is harder to ignite then a rich mixture. Maybe the people that feel the diffrence in the plugs have a leaner mixture then those who don't feel the diffrence. The plug is better able to ignite the leaner mixture makeing the bike "feel better". This is why you see cars with individual coil packs now. They need the extra energy because they are trying to get more performance (HP) out of less fuel (milage).

.
This^

All things being equal there shouldn't be much difference between standard and irdium plugs. Its under the less that ideal conditions I have had luck with iridiums.

My DR starts and idles better. Not sure I noticed any power difference. But it was worth it for the better starting.

I noticed much bigger differences in my 2 strokes. I have found 2 strokes to much easier to jet and all around run better with iridiums.

In fact Yamaha orginally equipped their 2005 YZ125 with copper plugs. In 06 they supplied the 125 with Iridium plugs and recommend the upgrade on the 05 model.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:31 PM   #66280
Minsk99
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Tire Size

I was wondering if I run a 130/80-17 in the rear, can I go with the stock size of 90/90-21 up front without any adjustments? Also, how much lower is the 130/80 to the stock 120/90? Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:28 PM   #66281
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Yes, .... it depends!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkGS View Post
This is embarrassing to admit but I need to ask about it. I wore the front brake pads all the way down to the metal, and I didn't notice it until the braking action started to get "sticky" from 5 to 0 mph. I replaced the pads, but I am wondering about the rotor. I would describe part of the surface as "rough" (presumably where metal was rubbing on metal) versus the normal smooth feeling surface of the rotor. Is this automatic grounds for replacing the rotor? Or is the answer "it depends?"
Of course the "standard" answer has to be that it should be replaced for 'safety'. I would not be very quick to replace it "DEPENDING" on just how 'rough' it is. I probably should not presume anything but am thinking that what you describe as 'rough' means circular grooves worn into the rotor by the pad and subsequently it's backing plate when there was no more pad material. How deep are those grooves? Can you actually measure them? At it's thinnest, i.e. bottom of groove to bottom of groove is the rotor still above minimum Suzuki spec. for thickness? Did the rotor warp from the metal on metal heat?
Most of us have some grooves worn in our rotors despite not having worn a set of pads completely out, I'd bet that you formed most of the grooves before you 'ran out of brake pad'. That can be caused by such things as uneven pad hardness or debris (sand, mud, etc.). I could make a case for the grooves actually adding swept area to the pad/rotor interface and giving you better braking (presuming that the pads and rotor meshed perfectly). If the rotor did not warp and if it is still above minimum thickness specification, I would be inclined to get some new pads and try it out. I would also be VERY careful (as in riding when and where I was in control of all braking, no cars to dodge!) to bed the new pads to the rotor because there will NOT be full pad contact with the rotor surface until the pads wear to match the grooves.
Your description of the surface as 'rough' and what I picture as 'rough' may be two VERY different things. A new rotor (OEM or aftermarket) can probably be bought for less than your 'deductable' for an ER visit, when you add in pain, liability or perhaps death, a rotor is pretty cheap. If the grooves are deep, how much of your new pads will you be scrubbing away to get to where you have good pad/rotor contact and how much sooner will you need to replace them because of that and start the process over?
In the end it is not a simple question and there is one more question to answer, Do you feel lucky?


Bruce
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:30 PM   #66282
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
I was wondering if I run a 130/80-17 in the rear, can I go with the stock size of 90/90-21 up front without any adjustments? Also, how much lower is the 130/80 to the stock 120/90? Thanks.
I was under the impression that the second number was the aspect ratio as a percentage of the width ?
So 4 mm difference in the radius height between the two. ?

130 100 x 80 = 104 mm
120
100 x 90 = 108 mm

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Old 06-23-2012, 07:36 PM   #66283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
I was wondering if I run a 130/80-17 in the rear, can I go with the stock size of 90/90-21 up front without any adjustments? Yes, no problems.

Also, how much lower is the 130/80 to the stock 120/90? They are very close. If my math is correct there's a difference of 4 mm.

..........shu

(whoops, ADV8 beat me to it. Math looks the same though.)
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:17 PM   #66284
tobster9
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Piston rings

Help! im replacing the pistn rings and there are 2 marks a green and a white one on each ring does anyone know the order they go in please!
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:50 PM   #66285
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Who wants my money?!

Looking to buy a 19" front wheel... Who's got one they need to sell... With or without tire is fine, with or without brake disc is fine...
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