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Old 06-23-2012, 04:22 PM   #66271
bkoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post

Theory #2: a lean fuel mixture is harder to ignite then a rich mixture. Maybe the people that feel the diffrence in the plugs have a leaner mixture then those who don't feel the diffrence. The plug is better able to ignite the leaner mixture makeing the bike "feel better". This is why you see cars with individual coil packs now. They need the extra energy because they are trying to get more performance (HP) out of less fuel (milage).

.
This^

All things being equal there shouldn't be much difference between standard and irdium plugs. Its under the less that ideal conditions I have had luck with iridiums.

My DR starts and idles better. Not sure I noticed any power difference. But it was worth it for the better starting.

I noticed much bigger differences in my 2 strokes. I have found 2 strokes to much easier to jet and all around run better with iridiums.

In fact Yamaha orginally equipped their 2005 YZ125 with copper plugs. In 06 they supplied the 125 with Iridium plugs and recommend the upgrade on the 05 model.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:31 PM   #66272
Minsk99
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Tire Size

I was wondering if I run a 130/80-17 in the rear, can I go with the stock size of 90/90-21 up front without any adjustments? Also, how much lower is the 130/80 to the stock 120/90? Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #66273
Fire Escape
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Yes, .... it depends!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkGS View Post
This is embarrassing to admit but I need to ask about it. I wore the front brake pads all the way down to the metal, and I didn't notice it until the braking action started to get "sticky" from 5 to 0 mph. I replaced the pads, but I am wondering about the rotor. I would describe part of the surface as "rough" (presumably where metal was rubbing on metal) versus the normal smooth feeling surface of the rotor. Is this automatic grounds for replacing the rotor? Or is the answer "it depends?"
Of course the "standard" answer has to be that it should be replaced for 'safety'. I would not be very quick to replace it "DEPENDING" on just how 'rough' it is. I probably should not presume anything but am thinking that what you describe as 'rough' means circular grooves worn into the rotor by the pad and subsequently it's backing plate when there was no more pad material. How deep are those grooves? Can you actually measure them? At it's thinnest, i.e. bottom of groove to bottom of groove is the rotor still above minimum Suzuki spec. for thickness? Did the rotor warp from the metal on metal heat?
Most of us have some grooves worn in our rotors despite not having worn a set of pads completely out, I'd bet that you formed most of the grooves before you 'ran out of brake pad'. That can be caused by such things as uneven pad hardness or debris (sand, mud, etc.). I could make a case for the grooves actually adding swept area to the pad/rotor interface and giving you better braking (presuming that the pads and rotor meshed perfectly). If the rotor did not warp and if it is still above minimum thickness specification, I would be inclined to get some new pads and try it out. I would also be VERY careful (as in riding when and where I was in control of all braking, no cars to dodge!) to bed the new pads to the rotor because there will NOT be full pad contact with the rotor surface until the pads wear to match the grooves.
Your description of the surface as 'rough' and what I picture as 'rough' may be two VERY different things. A new rotor (OEM or aftermarket) can probably be bought for less than your 'deductable' for an ER visit, when you add in pain, liability or perhaps death, a rotor is pretty cheap. If the grooves are deep, how much of your new pads will you be scrubbing away to get to where you have good pad/rotor contact and how much sooner will you need to replace them because of that and start the process over?
In the end it is not a simple question and there is one more question to answer, Do you feel lucky?


Bruce
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:30 PM   #66274
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
I was wondering if I run a 130/80-17 in the rear, can I go with the stock size of 90/90-21 up front without any adjustments? Also, how much lower is the 130/80 to the stock 120/90? Thanks.
I was under the impression that the second number was the aspect ratio as a percentage of the width ?
So 4 mm difference in the radius height between the two. ?

130 100 x 80 = 104 mm
120
100 x 90 = 108 mm

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Old 06-23-2012, 06:36 PM   #66275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
I was wondering if I run a 130/80-17 in the rear, can I go with the stock size of 90/90-21 up front without any adjustments? Yes, no problems.

Also, how much lower is the 130/80 to the stock 120/90? They are very close. If my math is correct there's a difference of 4 mm.

..........shu

(whoops, ADV8 beat me to it. Math looks the same though.)
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:17 PM   #66276
tobster9
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Piston rings

Help! im replacing the pistn rings and there are 2 marks a green and a white one on each ring does anyone know the order they go in please!
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:50 PM   #66277
planemanx15
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Who wants my money?!

Looking to buy a 19" front wheel... Who's got one they need to sell... With or without tire is fine, with or without brake disc is fine...
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:53 PM   #66278
NorCal Jeff
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Turned over 30k miles today..still have never touched the carb, NSU screws, chain rollers,bearings, etc...just had to replace original battery last week.. bike runs perfect... WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:56 PM   #66279
Nullarbor63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Going out on a limb here-

Theory #1:The only thing I could think of is the unobtanium plugs produce a Hotter spark (not to be confused with heat range- see below) or a larger spark. It is all about getting a complete fuel burn by the time the piston reaches TDC. Lets call these plugs more efficient at making a charge of fuel burn which would make the engine more efficient.

Theory #2: a lean fuel mixture is harder to ignite then a rich mixture. Maybe the people that feel the diffrence in the plugs have a leaner mixture then those who don't feel the diffrence. The plug is better able to ignite the leaner mixture makeing the bike "feel better". This is why you see cars with individual coil packs now. They need the extra energy because they are trying to get more performance (HP) out of less fuel (milage).


Little info: people have talked a little about heat range but I'm not sure they understand it's intended function. I will try to explain it best I can: The heat range of a plug is how much heat the plug can dissapate before burning up the electrode. The idea behind the heat ranges is to keep the plug clean and from burning up. If you look down in a plug with a light you will see that a "hotter" plug has more porcelain protuding then a "colder" plug. This is to keep the porcelain hot to burn contaminants off of it. The shorter porcelain of the colder plug allows heat to be transfered quicker to the metal body. The trick is to find the proper plug. The most basic way to check you heat range is to look at the threads. You are usually looking for 3-4 threads that show signs of heat. The porcelain should not have any buildup on it either. If you see that there are 7-8 threads showing heat and the porcelain is white from heat (or the electrode is torched off ) you need to go with a colder plug. If you only have 1-2 threads showing heat and the porcelain has contaminants/black you need to go hotter. DO NOT confuse a dark plug with needing a hotter plug. Too many people see a black plug and immediately put a hotter one it. If you have any type of oil burning issue or a rich fuel mixture these things need to be fixed BEFORE determining heat range. Going hotter on a plug does not fix a rich mixture or oil burn issue.

On my DR I saw that the plugs showed 4-5 threads of heat on the stock plugs. I didn't go colder because the electrode looked good and the plug was clean. For my normal riding I felt the standard plug was fine. I also would expect to see more heat on an air cooled engine. If I was going to do track days, lots of sand riding, or anything where the engine would be working hard for long periods I would probably go to the next colder plug.

Hope this helps someone.
I've been listening to advice about plugs for more than 30 years and that's the best explanation of heat range I've heard yet. Thanks. Platignum corrodes and burns slower than steel, and this may be the reason for using rare metal tipped plugs, though that's just a suggestion.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:15 PM   #66280
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
I was under the impression that the second number was the aspect ratio as a percentage of the width ?
So 4 mm difference in the radius height between the two. ?

130 100 x 80 = 104 mm
120
100 x 90 = 108 mm

you are correct. but, it is simpler yust to multiply 130 x .8, and 120 x .9, as in the first case, the "80" indicates that the height is 80% of the width; in the second case, the "90" indicates that the height is 90% of the width...

also, the total diameter of the wheel/tire w/the 130/80/17 is .98765% that of the 120/90/17, so an indicated 70mph is 69.1mph - not much difference...

doug s.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #66281
Vel Crow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
the fact that jeff at procycle specifically told me that the dyno chart of the 780 motor does include the big walve head as well as the upgrade cam, supports my assertion that the 780 dyno chart includes the big walve head.
doug s.

What's a 'walve'?

vel
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:41 PM   #66282
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vel Crow View Post
What's a 'walve'?

vel
if you can't figure it out, i am not sure i can help explain it to you.

doug s.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:58 PM   #66283
Vel Crow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
if you can't figure it out, i am not sure i can help explain it to you.

doug s.
hmmm. Maybe you could try. I may be just a little(or, a lot) dumb but, what's a 'big walve head'?

vel
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:18 PM   #66284
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
you are correct. but, it is simpler yust to multiply 130 x .8, and 120 x .9, as in the first case, the "80" indicates that the height is 80% of the width; in the second case, the "90" indicates that the height is 90% of the width...

also, the total diameter of the wheel/tire w/the 130/80/17 is .98765% that of the 120/90/17, so an indicated 70mph is 69.1mph - not much difference...

doug s.
OK got it,so you are saying the second number is the aspect ratio as a percentage of the width ?
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:24 PM   #66285
gjcarving
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vel Crow View Post
hmmm. Maybe you could try. I may be just a little(or, a lot) dumb but, what's a 'big walve head'?

vel
Valve head. It was just a typo.
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