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Old 06-26-2012, 05:59 AM   #66421
cabinfever
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Location: Central Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Meh. I'll just order up a new pair or see of I can find something that'll work. I am still curious what others experience with this was. My springs are the Eibach set from Pro Cycle.
My Eibach set from ProCycle didn't come with any washers that I remember. I cut the spacers for preload, and installed the stock washer between the spring and spacer, no washer between spacer and fork cap. I also did emulators, with the spring sitting directly on top of the emulator.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:48 AM   #66422
Minsk99
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motoman break-in update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Just to update, I just got a new 2012 last night (although still at dealer). Can't freaking wait to get on the saddle!!! Anyways, I am having the dealer truck the bike to a dyno end of this week without ever having been fired up and am going to do the "hard break in" there on the dyno. As of now, I am going to do the motoman method as he describes it on his web site, which is as follows:

On a Dyno: Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm

Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80%
of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes


Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm

Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!



Interested in what folks think of this exact process or if it should perhaps be modified for the DR. I'll let ya know how it goes. Also, not to start a riot, but what are the feelings about auto vs. motorcycle oil for this type of break in procedure? I anticipate changing the oil immediately after the dyno break in. Thanks.
Thanks for the folks who had some advice on the above post. I ended up having the bike shipped to the dyno and did the motoman, hard break-in pretty much by the book. We did a few more full throttle pulls than the three that was recommended just to make sure that we really leaned on the rings. FYI, the dyno statistics immediately following the break-in were 35.6 HP and 34.5 lb-ft of torque.

After the dyno I had changed oil and filter and then rode home hard for 30 miles. Now that the rings are hopefully set in, I'm gonna go a bit easy on the bike for a few hundred miles (although running through the gears, etc).

Anyways, so far so good.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:04 AM   #66423
planemanx15
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Anybody have warp 9 rims on their dr? I'm sending them my front hub to be laced to a 19" rim. How was your experience with warp 9?
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:50 AM   #66424
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Warp9

I did the same thing with my stock hubs. Had no problem with Warp9. They seem to be a small shop, so maybe they get overwhelmed at times...dunno.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:54 AM   #66425
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nice
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:03 AM   #66426
Motodeficient
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Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
I did the same thing with my stock hubs. Had no problem with Warp9. They seem to be a small shop, so maybe they get overwhelmed at times...dunno.

They sure are selling a lot of wheels though! I haven't had problems with mine, besides taking a long time to get the wheels to seat. I used a torque spoke wrench just to make sure I was doing it right. I am a wheel/spoke novice though so who knows. These were complete wheel/hub assemblies that I bought though, not laced to my stock hubs.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:21 AM   #66427
Emmbeedee
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Solid Clunk on Shut Down?

My friends' 2003 DR650 makes a loud mechanical clunk when you shut the engine off. Is this reason to worry? This is not an engine where the starter clutch torque limiter has been omitted, as in the notorious '98/'99...
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:24 AM   #66428
joefromsf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Solid Clunk on Shut Down?

My friends' 2003 DR650 makes a loud mechanical clunk when you shut the engine off. Is this reason to worry? This is not an engine where the starter clutch torque limiter has been omitted, as in the notorious '98/'99...
Mine does it if I turn off the engine while in gear and let out the clutch within 1-2 seconds. If I turn it off while in neutral or in gear but wait 3-4 seconds before letting out clutch then no clunk.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:31 AM   #66429
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
Mine does it if I turn off the engine while in gear and let out the clutch within 1-2 seconds. If I turn it off while in neutral or in gear but wait 3-4 seconds before letting out clutch then no clunk.
The engine's in neutral when this happens, but thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:52 AM   #66430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
You obviously have alot of experience with the BST and I while I agree with most of what you posted, I am yet to find a situation with an FCR where the fuel curve has not been able to be optimised via a combination of the right jetting changes.
How do you propose going about tailoring the fuel curve in an rpm-specific manner for a given throttle position on an FCR?
Quote:
Using CO is probably a more accurate method of tuning than the wideband setup that I'm using.
Indeed. Even better to have HC, O2, NOX and CO2 to look at as well.
Quote:
I do however like the ability to be able to road test under different conditions and gradients to be able to tune for an average of my typical riding conditions.
If you do this with an O2 sensor, the data can (and will) be quite misleading. I've done testing on the dyno that shows that for O2 sensor data to be even remotely relevant, the engine must be at steady state when the readings are being taken. Even with varying conditions being thrown into the mix, tuning on a 4- or 5-gas EGA equipped brake dyno will be far more accurate than anything that can be done with an O2 sensor under non-steady state conditions.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:07 PM   #66431
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Solid Clunk on Shut Down?

My friends' 2003 DR650 makes a loud mechanical clunk when you shut the engine off. Is this reason to worry? This is not an engine where the starter clutch torque limiter has been omitted, as in the notorious '98/'99...
When they stop spinning sometimes the piston kicks in backwards direction (reverse of normal crank rotation) and the starter clutch is what makes the noise as it catches.

I've heard a couple that sound clunckish when they do it. If there's much play in the clutch drive gears you may hear something on that side.

Some of the older DRs make wicked noises. My friends one makes more noise than anything I've heard coming from one engine. I mentioned it, he shrugged, and about 12 months later it ate some gears. Those things may be related. Who knows.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:14 PM   #66432
bradrh
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Originally Posted by JoshB View Post
Rode up georgia pass and webster pass this weekend.
.
Which route did you take from webster to georgia?
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:52 PM   #66433
Eddieb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinfever View Post
My Eibach set from ProCycle didn't come with any washers that I remember. I cut the spacers for preload, and installed the stock washer between the spring and spacer, no washer between spacer and fork cap. I also did emulators, with the spring sitting directly on top of the emulator.
I've just had a set of Eibach .47's arrive from Procycle. 4 washers and a length of plastic pipe for the spacers were all included in the box.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:20 PM   #66434
bouldertag
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Wheels help

Does anyone know if I can fit on my 2008 DR650se front and rear wheels from a 1994 Suzuki Dr350s?



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Old 06-27-2012, 06:33 AM   #66435
Snowy
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