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Old 07-10-2012, 06:32 PM   #66976
N.dica
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Location: Colorado
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Clutch slipping?

Ok fellas- riddle me this:

I am always very heavy on the throttle and run high speeds. Towards the end of today's ride, I was passing a guy and I was going about 70mph in 5th gear. It was at that time I felt the rpm's revving higher, but without the acceleration that should accompany the twisted throttle. I wasn't sure if I perceived it right and tried to duplicate it as I went my way down the road. It still pulled strong in the lower gears, but in 5th (and i think 4th) if I really gunned it, I could feel the same thing, higher revving rpm's without the usual corresponding accelleration. I mean, it went faster, but it felt like something was slipping under hard throttle.

I dont think its the TM40 as its new, fixed, and sounds/feels smooth and sorted.
My chain is still good and sprockets nice and pointy and proper.
Clutch cable is adjusted
No other corresponding symptoms.
Shes a '98 with about 15k miles
Petrol was 87 octane, and from our huge tank on our land, so I dont think bad gas is an issue- ive used it before.


Any ideas, gentlemen?
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:38 PM   #66977
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
Any ideas, gentlemen?
Classic case of "slipping clutch". Sometimes caused by running the wrong engine oil, other times by having burned it out by overheating it.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:41 PM   #66978
jessepitt
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+1
Did you switch oils recently?
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:43 PM   #66979
MeterPig
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Oh the "wrong" engine oil? I guess I have the right engine oil.

Anyway, sounds like your clutch plates are worn or your clutch springs aren't as spry as they used to be.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:49 PM   #66980
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Oh the "wrong" engine oil? I guess I have the right engine oil.

Anyway, sounds like your clutch plates are worn or your clutch springs aren't as spry as they used to be.
The "wrong" engine oil in this situation would be the type that has friction reducing additives, SE or SM type, as that would get into the clutch plates and cause them to slip.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:52 PM   #66981
N.dica
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Ive been using royal purple synthetic oil- changing it regularly- last was about 1k miles ago- levels are still full. Im very good about properly maintaining the oil situation.

Im hoping it is just clutch springs, but about a year and a half ago, I opened up the case fore the first time to fix the NSU's. During this, i didnt have the right tools and snapped the clutch basket and a clutch friction plate (or 2--cant remember). Anyway- at that time Jesse from Kientech hooked me up with a basket and some clutch plates.. which had slight notches in them at the time from what I assume was heavy use by whomever owned it last). It was put back properly and tighened to spec and haven had an issue since the procedure about 5k miles ago.


Lets hope its an easy fix, as Im about 3 days away from ordering my big bore kit.... id really hate to put that off again.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:59 PM   #66982
Motodeficient
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Have u messed around with the clutch cable adjustment at all recently.?? My bike started doing the same exact thing when I adjusted my clutch cable a little to tight. There should e a little free play in the clutch cable
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:04 PM   #66983
N.dica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Have u messed around with the clutch cable adjustment at all recently.?? My bike started doing the same exact thing when I adjusted my clutch cable a little to tight. There should e a little free play in the clutch cable

After some time, the cable eventually gets loose to the point the bike wont shif well and can grind gears. Last time this happened was maybe 3 weeks ago. I tightened the cable at that time, which solved that problem. I have not messed with the cable since, and there is a slight amount of play to it, so my best guess is that it is ok.:)

cheers!

Edit-- adjustment has been needed probably twice in 2 years, so as not to give the impression it happens often. It seems like when it does its because the rubber has worked its way off the adjustment screws and the bike vibration eventually loosens them.... i believe-- thanks for the input Jesse:)

N.dica screwed with this post 07-10-2012 at 07:24 PM
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #66984
jessepitt
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My cables almost never require adjustment. Could be a sign of accelerated wear somewhere?
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:03 PM   #66985
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So the knobby front makes a noticeable difference in offroad steering even without the rear tire being up to spec?
Oh HELL yes!

Maybe it's not as big a difference in some types of terrain, but in mud and bottomless sugarsand like we have around here, an appropriate front knob makes a HUGE difference. This, while a street-biased rear tire means that I can ride more than a weekend without having to spoon on a new rear knobby. My DR was almost uncontrollable in sand on the stock front TW with my noob dirt-piloting skills. The day I spooned on a front knob, sand got MUCH easier on this bike. I don't even bother airing down most of the time now.

I wouldn't recommend going as aggressive with the front tire on a mile-eating dualsport as I did (AMS Sand Snake MX...'Almost makes a D606 look like a touring tire ), as it's really squirrely when new and I don't trust it for hard braking or hard turning on pavement. An MT21 front is aggressive enough in the sand, yet still seems to grip decently and can last 2K+ miles on pavement. The Sand Snake only cost $21 though, and an MT21 is...a bit more. I'm going to try a compromise in the $28 Shinko 244 (more stable onroad than Kenda K270, but more dirty than Kenda K761 or stock TW).

I find that the front tire works best for me, in soft stuff, when it can knife in the direction I point it, like a pizza-cutter or an ice-skate (MAJOR lateral traction), while having enough braking traction to safely clamp on the front binders. In a turn or stop on soft terrain, a mild front tire can wash out very easily. If the back slides sideways, it's not usually as difficult to recover. I don't need nearly as much lateral traction in back. I need DRIVE and braking traction back there. This is likely why serious rear sand or mud tires often have paddles or paddle-type lugs on them, but some may not even have ANY type of lateral stabilizers on them. In many cases, a street-biased tread that can drive the bike forward and adequately slow the bike is all that is really needed in the rear for soft terrain. I just try to find an inexpensive tire with "paddles" that will last a long time and feel decent on pavement. The Kenda K761 fills this role well for me. It's not the greatest for lateral traction offroad, but it'll drive the DR through some nasty sand and mud if I just stay on the gas. It also handles decently onroad, while lasting much longer than any knobby I've ever heard of. My current K761 rear has 6K miles on it, a lot of which is 2up, and I've started experimenting on it with a grooving iron to make it more dirt-capable. It seems a similar pattern to the vaunted Heidenau K60 rear, but perhaps has slightly-smaller voids...and a much smaller pricetag in the US.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:16 PM   #66986
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advriderwannabe View Post
I updated my profile guys.. im in fairfax, va about 22 miles or so from the white house. Although the area i live in is pretty congested, there are some nice country roads nearby, skyline drive and some major national parks that have riding trails as well....

The thing with the exhaust/smoke concerns me.
It shouldn't. It's merely a good justification to the significant other that you need to get a 790cc big-bore kit and a big-valve head.



Seriously though...With that low of mileage and all the sitting, your biggest issue is likely to be cleaning out the fuel system (carb, filters, tank, etc.). The aftermarket for this '96-present bike can make a lot of possible issues go away pretty easily, and even somewhat inexpensively, compared to many other bikes that are only around for 2-3 years before being changed/eliminated.

Just look for signs of the seller having disconnected the odo cable for several thousand miles, then replacing the plastics right before placing the ad.
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:42 PM   #66987
Ride-til-sore!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advriderwannabe View Post
I updated my profile guys.. im in fairfax, va about 22 miles or so from the white house. .
Um, I think someone wanted you to up date your profile so they could maybe move in on your deal! It sounds like a good price for the bike and I would move on it before someone else does!
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:46 PM   #66988
acap650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostdncr View Post
Whatever it is, mine's in about the same shape. It looks consistent though, both in terms of link to link wear and it's evenly spread along the length of the chain.
Mine is also consistent link to link but there is more wear on the left side (outside) plates. Not sure if this started when I went to the 16T front sprocket. I also tend to adjust my chain on the loose side which would tend to make it contact the lower roller more often, I think?




I just tightened the chain one click so I'll see if the wear diminishes. I run a loobman oiler so the outside of the links should be oiley and wet, not shiney and dry. Still stumped.
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:55 PM   #66989
bohawk
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unusual chain wear

Quote:
Originally Posted by acap650 View Post
On a recent long ride (5K miles) while checking chain slack I noticed that small flats are appearing on the outside of my chain links as if something is contacting the chain. Well, since I was about to travel a few thousand more miles I decided to replace the chain. It had about 12K miles and was showing some stretch but was under the limit. The new chain now has about 4K miles and I'm seeing the same wear again.
I would not worry. The chain will get a bit closer to the rear guide as the bike squats and that along with the chain slack is probably letting it hit the guide. Have you cleaned the guide and looked at it? I have the same but heavier wear on my chain. It currently has spun around for 9500 miles. There is nothing metallic remotely close to the chain.


The first half of its life was on 14/46 gearing with the stock rear guide. The wear on the rear guide matches the wear on the chain. I believe the chain lube residue and the grit from mostly off road riding in my case creates an abrasive slurry on the guide that acts like lapping compound and this is the result after a few gazillion revolutions. Okay, it is probably not that many. I will do the math later.


The last half has been on 15/47 gearing with a Kientech rear guide. The wear on the chain guide is less but it is still visible in the picture below. I think I was running with too much chain slack for a long time, too. I just recently removed the top roller but it had very little wear on it. The lower roller still spins freely so I do not think it is contributing much to this.




I did not realize my guide was taking such a beating until looking at that picture.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:53 PM   #66990
MeterPig
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Paul from HDB got back to me. The measurements for the top clamp on a stock DR350 96+ are 100x33/35mm

Yes, they are the best....and I must have them.
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