the DR650 thread - Page 4468

Jon_PDX · 07-09-2012, 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doug s.

totally off-topic, but still worth a gander:
http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/1m7KsW...basement.html/

doug s.

Off topic or not that is very cool!

It was built by Ken ImHoff (Google search for info) and it took him 17 years to build it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=MgPNtyVS8zs

To get back on topic...

I'm on my second DR650 after foolishly selling my first one. At times I think about selling it but when I take it for a ride I'm reminded of why I keep it. It's just a nice simple bike that's fun to ride and does not ask a lot in return for what it provides.

Jon...

notarat · 07-09-2012, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKsteve

ah, i think we have a problem Houston. Are those needle valve things important? Because my carb doesn't have one (see pic). Is there a reason it would be removed? And would I have caused any damage trying to start the bike (actually rode it 6 miles) without one?

planemanx15: yes, shameless plug... but you want to part it out

Thanks in advance for all the help.

I found a chart that should help with lining out the jetting once you replace the parts you need to.

Main Jet Correction Chart
Step #1 - Assume Nothing!!! Check your carburetor(s) to verify the jetting installed in the carburetor(s).
Step #2 - Because air density varies with temperature and altitude changes, a main jet correction may be necessary. This chart was calculated at sea level with an air temperature of 60F.
Step #3 - Apply the multiplication factor shown to the main jet size recommended in the chart at the top of the page.
Step #4 - Your operating conditions will vary by the change of seasons. If your engine experiences performance difficulties, a review of your jetting may be necessary. Return to step #2.
Step #5 - Humidity is also a variable in determining air density. A high humidity means a lower air density of air to be consumed by combustion. Because we are generally not equipped with a way of easily reading the % of humidity present, this can be read in to this chart by adding altitude on high humidity days and subtracting altitude on in very dry climates.

Create you base line jetting for standard conditions.
If your base line tuning was at 86 degrees and a 1500' altitude with a 155 Main Jet
Calculate Base Line: 155 Main Jet / .97 = 160 Base Line Jet or specifically 159.8
To correct for local conditions of 100 degrees and 4500' altitude
Calculate Corrected Jetting: 160 Base Line Jet x .94 = 150 Main jet to use

Altitude - Feet	0'	1500'	3000'	4500'	6000'
Temperature
-22F	1.04	1.03	1.01	1	0.98
-4F	1.03	1.02	1	0.99	0.97
14F	1.02	1.01	0.99	0.98	0.96
32F	1.01	1	0.98	0.97	0.95
50F	1	0.99	0.97	0.96	0.95
59F	1	0.99	0.97	0.96	0.94
68F	1	0.98	0.97	0.95	0.94
86F	0.99	0.97	0.96	0.94	0.93
104F	0.98	0.96	0.95	0.94	0.92
123F	0.97	0.96	0.94	0.93	0.92

Rusty Rocket · 07-09-2012, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKsteve

ah, i think we have a problem Houston. Are those needle valve things important? Because my carb doesn't have one (see pic). Is there a reason it would be removed? And would I have caused any damage trying to start the bike (actually rode it 6 miles) without one?

planemanx15: yes, shameless plug... but you want to part it out

Thanks in advance for all the help.

Pretty sure the needle float valve is built into the plastic cage with the float attached. It has an o-ring and pushes into the carb body at the hole you've circled.

ghostdncr · 07-09-2012, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon_PDX

Off topic or not that is very cool!

It was built by Ken ImHoff (Google search for info) and it took him 17 years to build it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=MgPNtyVS8zs

That, friends, is the face of relentless.

notarat · 07-09-2012, 06:58 AM

I think I'm going to load up the bike and take it to the dealership tomorrow and let them swap the shock and forks out for the ones I sent to CD for upgrading.

Normally, I'd do this kind of work myself, but I have times where some discs in my back pop out of place (herniated T1/T2 & L3/L4) and it takes a week or so for them to pop back in. If it's just one of the two that pops out I can work through it, albeit painfully. When they're both popped out of place, there's really no way I can wrench on the bike because I literally feel like I got hit by a truck.

If I drop it off tomorrow, I think I'll also get them to spoon on the Kenda 270 Rear and Shinko 244 Front since spooning tires is not really therapeutic for my back.

Harry94025 · 07-09-2012, 08:56 AM

Spotted at the local Cycle Gear yesterday. I took some interest since I own a DR and an SV, but separately...

neo1piv014 · 07-09-2012, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry94025

Spotted at the local Cycle Gear yesterday. I took some interest since I own a DR and an SV, but separately...

What the hell....is that the SV's engine sitting in that DR frame? Okay...that's actually pretty friggen awesome.

ghostdncr · 07-09-2012, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry94025

Spotted at the local Cycle Gear yesterday. I took some interest since I own a DR and an SV, but separately...

Sweet baby Jesus, I'd like to take that down the street and back!

motolab · 07-09-2012, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKsteve

That's a pic from the forum I am following. I just used it as an example of what I am trying to get out. Sorry if I named it wrong (I am a newbie at this). Either way though, the screw is stripped. So... am I screwed?

Pilot jet extraction procedure:

Clamp the carb body on a mill. Find the center of the pilot jet well with a dial indicator. Next, use a left handed stubby drill and with the machine in neutral and exerting downward pressure with the quill handle, turn the drill counterclockwise by hand via the chuck. The drill will in most cases dig into the corners of the existing hole and pull out the jet. Applying some heat will assist. If that doesn't work, which in my experience is rare, it is possible to drill all the way out until only the threads of the jet are left standing. In this case, one must drill though the entire threaded portion of the jet, but be careful to drill no further. The threads can then be pulled out in a spiral using a pick and small forceps. The last step is chasing the threads by hand with an M5 X .8 tap.

I can take care of this for you if you want to send me your carburetor.

Regards,

Derek

motolab · 07-09-2012, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKsteve

OK. The carb is apart and cleaned. I did make some discovers: a couple o-rings were shot, the o-ring and spring on the fuel/air screw were actually stuck in the carb and didn't come out until cleaning, and the float bowl gasket was pretty worn out too. Oh, and I stripped the idle jet screw, it is still in the carb (shit).

Now I have to figure out what is stock and what is not.

Thanks for the help along the way.

It looks like the plastic needle shim is missing. Also, have you inspected the slide guide for wear? If the two recesses in the bottom corners of the slide excursion (not the four round ones) are .010" or less deep, the guide should be replaced in order to prevent emulsion tube wear. If they are quite a bit less than .010" deep, then the emulsion tube is likely to be worn, and should be replaced as well. Also check the slide for vertical grooving on the downstream side, as well as for drilled lift holes and needle hole wear. If any of these are present, the slide should be replaced. I would recommend using a needle with a more suitable shape than the one in the picture (it's not stock), otherwise the mixture will be quite a bit richer toward the bottom than toward the top, without any real way to fix it.

Regards,

Derek

procycle · 07-09-2012, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghostdncr

Sweet baby Jesus, I'd like to take that down the street and back!

+1
But I'd want a front brake on it first.

notarat · 07-09-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry94025

Spotted at the local Cycle Gear yesterday. I took some interest since I own a DR and an SV, but separately...

Is it just me or will that front tire smash into the front cylinder the first big bump it hits?

maynard911 · 07-09-2012, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tech23

Hey man...thanks. I just received the set I ordered. These things will work on any (10mm) mirror I might put on the bike unlike the straight style 2" stock mirror extensions. Have yet to ride with them so I don't know if they will add any additional vibration...at least I can see past my shoulders now.

Tech23

I'd be very interested in the vibration report on the Ebay mirror extenders. Every replacement mirror that I have tried has buzzed too much.

ghostdncr · 07-09-2012, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by procycle

+1
But I'd want a front brake on it first.

Good point.

Rusty Rocket · 07-09-2012, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notarat

Is it just me or will that front tire smash into the front cylinder the first big bump it hits?

not only that, but the down tube of the frame is removed. I don't think I'd ride it across the street.

The swingarm isn't a DR item.

07-09-2012, 08:56 AM	#67011
Harry94025 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2010 Oddometer: 172	Drsv650 Spotted at the local Cycle Gear yesterday. I took some interest since I own a DR and an SV, but separately...

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

07-09-2012, 06:58 AM	#67010
notarat Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Bluff City Oddometer: 333	I think I'm going to load up the bike and take it to the dealership tomorrow and let them swap the shock and forks out for the ones I sent to CD for upgrading. Normally, I'd do this kind of work myself, but I have times where some discs in my back pop out of place (herniated T1/T2 & L3/L4) and it takes a week or so for them to pop back in. If it's just one of the two that pops out I can work through it, albeit painfully. When they're both popped out of place, there's really no way I can wrench on the bike because I literally feel like I got hit by a truck. If I drop it off tomorrow, I think I'll also get them to spoon on the Kenda 270 Rear and Shinko 244 Front since spooning tires is not really therapeutic for my back.