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Old 07-26-2012, 06:35 AM   #67726
jwdub
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re: Mikuni vacuum pump. Do a search in the Orange Crush forum. Some have ditched the stock KTM fuel pump for the Mikuni (in several variations) for the 950's.
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:47 AM   #67727
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
To me it seems like something is wrong on the pilot circuit.. but I can't figure why I need to adjust the pilot screw 3.5 turns out just to make the bike driveable, given the stock configuration... stock jets, stock exhaust, stock airbox, clean K&N air filter, carb was just cleaned. Any ideas are more than welcome.

thanks
Check to see that the plastic body that the choke cable enters the carb through isn't broken. Mine was and I had similar issues. I replaced it with a hand choke and never looked back.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:08 AM   #67728
deathu
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Today I ordered some more new parts for the carb, including the plastic washer that holds the needle jet, the jet needle (to eliminate possible wear out of this equation), the two O-rings that were mentioned, a new pilot jet etc.

We'll see how this goes when the parts arrive - for now I'm inclined to believe that the source of the problem may be the incorrect needle assembly height due tot the modified washer.

Thanks to everyone for your help.


Now I have two more un-related questions:
- can anybody tell me the total length of the idle speed adjuster screw (throttle stop)? Seems my screw is too short - I can not set the idle speed at all unless I remove the plastic spacer under it's spring - otherwise the screw won't protrude through it's holder.
- how much oil consumption is considered to be "normal" or "acceptable" for a DR650SE?
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:30 AM   #67729
godwinmt
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your idle stop screw doesn't protrude at all? mine protrudes a tiny amount, but it works.

My DR uses no oil between changes (~2500 miles). it's got ~8k on it so far.

-M
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:39 AM   #67730
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
- how much oil consumption is considered to be "normal" or "acceptable" for a DR650SE?
Our two, a '96 and an '01 use no oil at all between changes at 5000 km interval.

My '96 has 40,000 kms on it and the '01 has at least 22,000.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:38 AM   #67731
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Today I ordered some more new parts for the carb, including the plastic washer that holds the needle jet, the jet needle (to eliminate possible wear out of this equation), the two O-rings that were mentioned, a new pilot jet etc.

We'll see how this goes when the parts arrive - for now I'm inclined to believe that the source of the problem may be the incorrect needle assembly height due tot the modified washer.

Thanks to everyone for your help.


Now I have two more un-related questions:
- can anybody tell me the total length of the idle speed adjuster screw (throttle stop)? Seems my screw is too short - I can not set the idle speed at all unless I remove the plastic spacer under it's spring - otherwise the screw won't protrude through it's holder.
- how much oil consumption is considered to be "normal" or "acceptable" for a DR650SE?
The total length including the knob, is 69mm. In this pic, the spring is almost completely coil bound. The holder is adjustable too, in the carb tab.

I don't burn any oil between 3500 mile intervals, but I ride conservatively; no bouncing off the rev limiter. 34,xxx miles. FWIW: I use automotive full synthetic 15-50w.

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Old 07-26-2012, 11:11 AM   #67732
deathu
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Thanks! I ride conservatively as well, but after the last 300km I had to top the oil...during this distance the oil level went down from 3/4 (near full mark) to the "low" mark.
I'll definitely open the top of the engine, as a winter project, to check valves, valve seats, piston rings, piston, cylinder etc AND to replace the leaking base gasket (the common fault for the earlier bikes).
Wile I am definitely losing some of the oil through the leaky bake gasket, I can not attribute the entire level drop to this leak.
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Old 07-26-2012, 12:21 PM   #67733
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
,... my problem is that it's impossible to get the bike moving unless I set the pilot screw to over 3 full turns out... the engine will just die as I release the clutch. If try to rev it while in neutral gear, the bike wants to stall as well, and I hear frequent popping on the exhaust. With the pilot screw adjusted 3.5 turns out the bike is driveable.. seems to lack power on lower revs...
your pilot jet is either the wrong size or it's plugged.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
...accelerating out of traffic going 80+ is a breeze....
wait 'til you up the main jet and ditch the stock needle.
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:54 PM   #67734
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
your pilot jet is either the wrong size or it's plugged.



wait 'til you up the main jet and ditch the stock needle.

agreed. they clog easily. mine did and ran the same way.
i cleaned it with a thin sewing needle and did a pine sol carb clean.
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:32 PM   #67735
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/mikuni-...are-fuel-pumps

So body try one of these in conjunction with their safari tank (or similar) setup. I'm trying to first: eliminate any air locks and secondly, so I don't have to turn fuel taps off all the time.

Looking for some feedback thanks.
I have these pumps on each of the tanks for my FE501. They were a stock item because much of the fuel on the rhs is below the carb, so it pumps continuously to the lhs where it gravity feeds to the carb like normal, or overflows back to the rhs.

On a DR you'd have to tap into a vacuum source from the intake manifold or carb. Dunno what pressure it creates, but if the outlet is direct to the carb it could cause float level issues, dunno, and at full throttle, not much vacuum when you want it for fuel flow and visa versa. Why not just plumb it up like mine, works fine?

Steve
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:54 PM   #67736
buckrut1972
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added lights for my DR

I have the back side covered but want to add some lights up front. I hear the Denali are the way to go as it is on a smaller bike. Thoughts?
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #67737
garnaro
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Taming Tubby Thumpers

Thought you guys would like this -

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Old 07-26-2012, 07:09 PM   #67738
JTB488
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Thanks Bugs! That was fun.Wish we had some trails like that out here.
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:57 PM   #67739
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Check to see that the plastic body that the choke cable enters the carb through isn't broken. Mine was and I had similar issues. I replaced it with a hand choke and never looked back.

Lots of parts in there!
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:04 PM   #67740
AKsteve
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black cylinder head

Long story short (and it is a long story). I have a blown head gasket as evident by a slow stream of oil coming out of the gasket when the bike is on. So I took the motor apart. Right away I notice the exhaust was layered with dry black crud at the end that connects to the engine. Spark plugs also have dry black crud on them. So I wasn't surprised when I pulled off the cylinder head and found it covered in dry black crud (see pic).

The carb is clean (it was the first thing I pulled and cleaned) but the cylinder head is black on the inside (the intake tract). How do I clean inside it? Anyway, I bought the bike used and it has not run right from the get go. I have only been able to ride it about 14 miles and that was with sputtering, stalling, choke always on (or it stalls), clutch in and throttling when slowing (or it stalls), back firing, fluctuating idle... just a world of hell.

I am hoping it is just a blown gasket causing the issues. Just wonder what I else should look for and how the heck to clean this thing.

Thanks.

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