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Old 07-27-2012, 07:24 AM   #67726
harleyandme
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Bluhduh over heated DR 650

Hiya Guys
New to this site so please excuse the lack of professionalism, recently I headed of to Cape York from Augusta in WA and got to the top,great trip but alas the mighty DR didnt fare as well as I did, the bike got hotter than usual and took forever to cool down.I ended up shipping it back to Cairns to be looked at, they did an oil pressure test and told me it was extremely high along with the oil filter being abnormaly dry, the cost for them to rectify what they didnt know was wrong would have been too high so I have put it on a truck for a return trip home. my question is...has any one had similar problems or know of what could be the cause?. I have ruled out the following. dirty air cleaner,blocked engine vent,dirty oil,water in oil,tropical temp,overloaded or over worked, dirty oil filter. any suggestions would be great
Thanks
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:16 AM   #67727
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugsOnMyBoard View Post
Thought you guys would like this -

Is that Metcalf Rd?
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:21 PM   #67728
Go Irish75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyandme View Post
Hiya Guys
New to this site so please excuse the lack of professionalism, recently I headed of to Cape York from Augusta in WA and got to the top,great trip but alas the mighty DR didnt fare as well as I did, the bike got hotter than usual and took forever to cool down.I ended up shipping it back to Cairns to be looked at, they did an oil pressure test and told me it was extremely high along with the oil filter being abnormaly dry, the cost for them to rectify what they didnt know was wrong would have been too high so I have put it on a truck for a return trip home. my question is...has any one had similar problems or know of what could be the cause?. I have ruled out the following. dirty air cleaner,blocked engine vent,dirty oil,water in oil,tropical temp,overloaded or over worked, dirty oil filter. any suggestions would be great
Thanks
What about oil filter not being installed correctly? Hence the high temps and dry oil filter? Gotta have everything lined up perfect, including the o ring, and spring and make sure that sucker gets seated straight and proper as you sandwich it all together to close it up. Takes a bit of practice to get right, maybe something happened there.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:46 PM   #67729
Toxic Mark
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
I have the back side covered but want to add some lights up front. I hear the Denali are the way to go as it is on a smaller bike. Thoughts?
I have the Denali 2s on my DR. Extremely bright, especially when on full power (I set it up to be slightly less power without the highbeams on and full power with). I also applied yellow tint from Laminx to help if there is fog. At night it lights up very well. You will have no problem riding in the dark.

Wiring is a breeze. For the dual setting you will be tapping into the high beam wire on the stock harness and a keyed wire for lower power (I used the brown wire behind the headlight). There will be some extra length of wire that you will have to wind up and put somewhere.

Placing the lights was a little trickier. I used the light brackets from ProCycle. They work with the Denali light pods but they put the lefthand light pod right inline with the brake line, no bueno. What I ended up doing was getting some 1/8 stock aluminum and made a secondary bracket to offset the lights a little bit wider in order avoid the brake line. You only need to do this on the left side, but I did it for both for the sake of symmetry. Don't go too wide when offsetting or the lights/bracketry will hit the tank. 1 1/2" - 1 3/4" will be just about right.

Also, the wiring system comes with a on/off switch so that you can turn them off completely. It's a push button switch backed with adhesive that I stuck right on my speedometer. I also used an Eastern Beaver headlight relay that is switched so that I can turn off my main headlight, too.

Pictures of my setup are in the "no pissing and moaning" thread. Can't remember what post.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:52 PM   #67730
Toxic Mark
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Whoops, must've deleted them. I get some back up soon.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:52 PM   #67731
PhL0aTeR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR View Post
Thought id pop in for some free advice... lol... i recently changed my chain/sprockets, new brakes, adjusted the valves, new tires, etc and lately ive noticed an extra noise im not used to... Its almost like a "clattering" sound, definitely not something ive noticed before, and its intermittent as well. Tried to figure out what exactly I could do to recreate the problem, and it seems to be when im about half throttle at the lower end of the RPM range, but above the point where it wants to bog of course.

Any thoughts?
Seems like that noise was my bike telling me im a cheap bastard.... $50 chains last <4k miles

at any rate.... this is the aftermath:

Can anyone tell me with certainty what size that headless bolt is directly under the output shaft?

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Old 07-27-2012, 03:19 PM   #67732
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR View Post
Seems like that noise was my bike telling me im a cheap bastard.... $50 chains last <4k miles

at any rate.... this is the aftermath:

Can anyone tell me with certainty what size that headless bolt is directly under the output shaft?

# 27 I believe......6x20

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...RANKCASE_COVER
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:51 PM   #67733
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
You do remember correctly. The idle fuel screw (pilot screw) pilot jet has a very small orifice and many of us replace them 'once in a while, just in case'. Since you're having idle problems, now would be a good time to replace it.



Neither would most of us. Have you seen the BST-40 Bible? Be aware that it's written for a KTM carb, there are some confusing differences.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=bst40

Hi,

I've now read the BST-40 bible (the initial post). Should I understand that the procedure for adjusting the float height is one of those confusing differences?

Another thing I do not understand, is why are you, as well as the author of that "BST40 bible" referring to the pilot jet (pictured above, in the quoted part of your post), with the small hole in it, as "idle fuel screw". Am I missing something here? If I understand correctly this is not adjustable, the only important thing being the size of the hole through it. To me, the "pilot screw" is the one that is accessible from the outside of the carburetor, that holds the spring, washer and O-ring on it. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:17 PM   #67734
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

I've now read the BST-40 bible (the initial post). Should I understand that the procedure for adjusting the float height is one of those confusing differences?
No they're the same. This is what you want on both the DR and KTM. You aren't pushing the float down to measure, it should lie parallel on its own when the carb is held in this position.



Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Another thing I do not understand, is why are you, as well as the author of that "BST40 bible" referring to the pilot jet (pictured above, in the quoted part of your post), with the small hole in it, as "idle fuel screw". Am I missing something here? If I understand correctly this is not adjustable, the only important thing being the size of the hole through it. To me, the "pilot screw" is the one that is accessible from the outside of the carburetor, that holds the spring, washer and O-ring on it. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong.
Pilot Jet is the correct term. You can see that I corrected my terminoloy by lining out idle fuel screw (pilot screw) when proof reading my reply. You probably saw it before I got it corrected, sorry about the confusion. It isn't adjustable and the DR uses a 42.5 as you noted earlier.

There is no pilot screw. There is a pilot jet and an idle fuel screw on this carb. The IFS (my shorthand) controls fuel flow, screw out for richer, in for leaner. This is the one outside the carb with spring, washer and O-ring.

Idle fuel screws:
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:05 PM   #67735
Thumper Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Now I'm no great mechanic but what I think you need to do is fix the core problem, the leaky or maladjusted float. It would appear that the float is not properly sealing off the gas flow, ask me how I know . I replaced the float assembly and properly set the float height which solved my gas overflow, fuel in the crankcase problem. A new petcock might fix things as long as you always remembered to close them but if not you may get bigger problems.
Just to clarify, I DON'T have any issue with my TM40. Its the POTENTIAL by leaving fuel taps on that the above could happen. Thanks for your response though!

BergDonk...........thanks for your reply, this helps me greatly and just will go with what you've suggested. I was under the impression that if I left the bike fuel taps on more than 2 or 3 hours, I maybe getting fuel into my crank or whatever. On at the start of the day and off at the end, I think I can handle!

I'll go the simplified method and see how I go.

thanks heaps.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:10 PM   #67736
Thumper Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyandme View Post
Hiya Guys
New to this site so please excuse the lack of professionalism, recently I headed of to Cape York from Augusta in WA and got to the top,great trip but alas the mighty DR didnt fare as well as I did, the bike got hotter than usual and took forever to cool down.I ended up shipping it back to Cairns to be looked at, they did an oil pressure test and told me it was extremely high along with the oil filter being abnormaly dry, the cost for them to rectify what they didnt know was wrong would have been too high so I have put it on a truck for a return trip home. my question is...has any one had similar problems or know of what could be the cause?. I have ruled out the following. dirty air cleaner,blocked engine vent,dirty oil,water in oil,tropical temp,overloaded or over worked, dirty oil filter. any suggestions would be great
Thanks
I've nearly read all of the threads for both Oz and the main DR650 thread and I don't think I've seen any of them having this issue. As was suggested previously, there is some sort of oil flow problem and something like the oil filter isn't in there right or something else is blocking oil flow.

Please let us know how you go with solving it.
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Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod

Thumper Dan screwed with this post 07-27-2012 at 10:00 PM
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:31 PM   #67737
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
Just to clarify, I DON'T have any issue with my TM40. Its the POTENTIAL by leaving fuel taps on that the above could happen. Thanks for your response though!

BergDonk...........thanks for your reply, this helps me greatly and just will go with what you've suggested. I was under the impression that if I left the bike fuel taps on more than 2 or 3 hours, I maybe getting fuel into my crank or whatever. On at the start of the day and off at the end, I think I can handle!

I'll go the simplified method and see how I go.

thanks heaps.
Over the years I've had old dungers that you had to turn off the fuel each time you stopped because I was too cheap to fix it, or it was a Dellorto carb that even new parts didn't fix, My IT175 currently fits that description, else its messy. Otherwise, even a good carb could/will leak when being trailered and with the fuel left on, I know

If you disconnect the fuel line from the taps with them off, is there any fuel flowing? If not, should be fine.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:00 PM   #67738
ntm1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKsteve View Post
The bike has 9k on it. It has a modified airbox (the whole top cut off). It have a after market exhaust and DJ jet kit. This was all done by previous owner. First thing I suspected was the carb, so I took it off and install the new jet kit (since I had no idea what was already in it, Doing all this to the carb made the bike run good for about 10 miles. Then it started acting up. But it was a long enough rider for the head gasket to show oil leaks.

Other symptoms
It never idled steady. Would be hard to start or not start at all. While riding it would stall on deceleration. It would backfire. At a steady speed it would sputter - felt like gas was cutting out or something. The symptoms seem all over the place so it is hard to diagnose. Seeing the leave head gasket brought some hope though. Not sure if it is the cause of everything, but it ain't good regardless.

The need to have the choke on is a mystery to me. I tried riching it up but it make no difference. So I tried leaning it out but that didn't do anything either.

I did suspect vacuum leaks but never tested (not sure how). I am also not sure how to check the valves?

Anyway, it will be a few days before the new gaskets arrive, so I have some to tinker with it and see if I discover anything else.
Thanks much for the suggestions.
aksteve,

You have all the symtoms of a bike running lean. What jet size is in there now? What does the needle look like? If you are keeping the choke on to run the bike, then you are making it super rich which is also bad for the engine and likely the cause for the carbon buildup (which is a sign of running rich.)

9k isn't a lot of miles but God knows what the previous owner did or didn't do to the bike. Here is what I would do if it were my bike:

You airbox is already cut up so you are pretty much stuck getting a jet kit or buying a bunch of jets individually. Procycle, Dynajet, etc all make decent jet kits. The jet kit will give you directions and a good starting point for what jets to install.

Make sure your float is set up properly.

If you have an aftermarket exhaust, make sure it is packed properly if needed.

Since you have the top end off, you should check the cylinder wall and the piston to make sure everything is in spec and not damaged. Piston and rings aren't that much $$ and the cylinder can be replated if needed.

Check each valve for leaks.

Adjust the valves after getting everything back together.

Check for leaks going into and out of the carb, you can spray starter fluid around the boots with the engine running to see if changes the idle.

Is the airfilter new, clean and properly oiled? Clean or Replace and oil as needed.

I always change the oil and filter when I get a new bike, who knows what kind of oil the P.O. had in there.

GET A MANUAL. You can find them used on ebay or online as a pdf for free. You gotta have it for the work you are doing.

I know it seems like a pain in the ass to do all this stuff and some might be overkill but you are already more than halfway there.

Good luck, you are already dealing with the hardest part by virtue of pulling the head and replacing the gaskets.

ntm1973 screwed with this post 07-27-2012 at 10:05 PM
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:46 AM   #67739
dirtkiwi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyandme View Post
Hiya Guys
New to this site so please excuse the lack of professionalism, recently I headed of to Cape York from Augusta in WA and got to the top,great trip but alas the mighty DR didnt fare as well as I did, the bike got hotter than usual and took forever to cool down.I ended up shipping it back to Cairns to be looked at, they did an oil pressure test and told me it was extremely high along with the oil filter being abnormaly dry, the cost for them to rectify what they didnt know was wrong would have been too high so I have put it on a truck for a return trip home. my question is...has any one had similar problems or know of what could be the cause?. I have ruled out the following. dirty air cleaner,blocked engine vent,dirty oil,water in oil,tropical temp,overloaded or over worked, dirty oil filter. any suggestions would be great
Thanks
10 to 1 when you replaced the oil filter you threw away the o ring, which had stuck to the filter you removed. The o ring is part of the BIKE not the filter. So many people arrive back at my mates bike shop with these symptoms after having picked up an oil and filter to change over the weekend....... Most thorough course now is to strip the thing down and check the bearings, and piston ring, sorry to say.
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:51 AM   #67740
Tech23
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Anyone out there have a pair of stock white hand guards in good shape? I'm looking for a pair of Factory DR 650 white plastic hand guards. I believe white was available on 2000 - 2001 - 2009 - and 2011 and possibly other model years as well. If you've got a pair and you want to get them off the shelf in the garage drop me a PM please.

Thanks,
Tech23
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