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Old 07-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #67726
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKsteve View Post
Long story short (and it is a long story). I have a blown head gasket as evident by a slow stream of oil coming out of the gasket when the bike is on. So I took the motor apart. Right away I notice the exhaust was layered with dry black crud at the end that connects to the engine. Spark plugs also have dry black crud on them. So I wasn't surprised when I pulled off the cylinder head and found it covered in dry black crud (see pic).

The carb is clean (it was the first thing I pulled and cleaned) but the cylinder head is black on the inside (the intake tract). How do I clean inside it? Anyway, I bought the bike used and it has not run right from the get go. I have only been able to ride it about 14 miles and that was with sputtering, stalling, choke always on (or it stalls), clutch in and throttling when slowing (or it stalls), back firing, fluctuating idle... just a world of hell.

I am hoping it is just a blown gasket causing the issues. Just wonder what I else should look for and how the heck to clean this thing.

Thanks.
There's a little 205 going on here by me, but.......................

All the black everywhere is showing a rich condition. Hopefully replacing the head gasket will solve your problems. While apart be sure to replace the pilot jet (pic yesterday) and make sure the plastic end on the choke cable (at the carb) isn't broken. Also check that the cable slides easily in 'n out, there's nothing to close the choke except that little spring on the end. Since the intake is carboned up, I don't think the head gasket is the only thing going on. Maybe.................

Try an aerosol carb cleaner to cut the carbon deposits. Be careful not to drown the top of the piston with a cleaner, you don't want to wash the oil off of the cylinder walls.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:48 PM   #67727
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IMS mileage

I hit reserve at 215 to 220, then about 20 miles before its gone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
275 miles, that is great! How far do you go before you hit reserve? I hit reserve at about 200 miles, and have went about 15 more miles from there before I get fuel. I was wondering how far reserve could take you.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:49 PM   #67728
LucasLeader
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Location: Chico, CA
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Went on a little ride last weekend with Redog1. He did a ride report, but I forgot my camera: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...9#post19183669
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:11 PM   #67729
AKsteve
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Location: Alaska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
Did you do any airbox or exhaust mods? What jets are in the carb? Do you have any vacuum leaks near the airbox or carb manifold? Do you have good spark? How many miles on the bike?

If I was in your shoes; I would get everything stock and then start from there. Stock jetting, stock airbox, stock air filter. The stock parts are cheap(minus the airbox.) If your airbox was cut open, you can always typically patch that without replacting the airbox...again....all cheap fixes and it will give you a good starting point.

Check for any vacuum leaks.

Make sure you have good spark and make sure your valves are in spec.

Did you try to torque the engine bolts before tearing it apart to fix the leaky gasket?

You might want check the cylinder walls and your valves for leaks while you are in there and have everything opened.
The bike has 9k on it. It has a modified airbox (the whole top cut off). It have a after market exhaust and DJ jet kit. This was all done by previous owner. First thing I suspected was the carb, so I took it off and install the new jet kit (since I had no idea what was already in it, Doing all this to the carb made the bike run good for about 10 miles. Then it started acting up. But it was a long enough rider for the head gasket to show oil leaks.

Other symptoms
It never idled steady. Would be hard to start or not start at all. While riding it would stall on deceleration. It would backfire. At a steady speed it would sputter - felt like gas was cutting out or something. The symptoms seem all over the place so it is hard to diagnose. Seeing the leave head gasket brought some hope though. Not sure if it is the cause of everything, but it ain't good regardless.

The need to have the choke on is a mystery to me. I tried riching it up but it make no difference. So I tried leaning it out but that didn't do anything either.

I did suspect vacuum leaks but never tested (not sure how). I am also not sure how to check the valves?

Anyway, it will be a few days before the new gaskets arrive, so I have some to tinker with it and see if I discover anything else.
Thanks much for the suggestions.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:33 AM   #67730
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I have these pumps on each of the tanks for my FE501. They were a stock item because much of the fuel on the rhs is below the carb, so it pumps continuously to the lhs where it gravity feeds to the carb like normal, or overflows back to the rhs.

On a DR you'd have to tap into a vacuum source from the intake manifold or carb. Dunno what pressure it creates, but if the outlet is direct to the carb it could cause float level issues, dunno, and at full throttle, not much vacuum when you want it for fuel flow and visa versa. Why not just plumb it up like mine, works fine?

Steve
thanks for that. I use my bike daily as I don't have a car (at the moment) and apparently I need to turn of the petcocks every time the bike sits for more than a couple of hours, otherwise it may affect the float bowel and also cause fuel to get into the crank case.

I was hoping to get around this issue by having the fuel pump instead of Raptor or Pingle petcocks (which I'm not sure are vacuum activated anyway).

I saw this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=771645 and terraslug mentions he has a fuel pump on. Since I'm running the TM40, I thought it would hook straight up. Hence the need for some feedback.

cheers
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:11 AM   #67731
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
thanks for that. I use my bike daily as I don't have a car (at the moment) and apparently I need to turn of the petcocks every time the bike sits for more than a couple of hours, otherwise it may affect the float bowel and also cause fuel to get into the crank case.

I was hoping to get around this issue by having the fuel pump instead of Raptor or Pingle petcocks (which I'm not sure are vacuum activated anyway).

I saw this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=771645 and terraslug mentions he has a fuel pump on. Since I'm running the TM40, I thought it would hook straight up. Hence the need for some feedback.

cheers
You don't NEED to turn off the fuel, but if you don't, and there is a hiccup with the needle and seat, and the overflow is blocked in some way, you could end up with a cylinder head full of fuel, which could result in a bent rod when you try to start it the next day, or just diluted oil, or it won't start, or..... lots of ducks to line up, and even with a pump and a full tank, gravity will still do its thing, so no difference really.

Learn to turn the fuel tap(s) off at the end of each day, and on at he beginning, and no worries.

We have an acronym for starting, FINE, Fuel (in tank, enrichment needed?, tap(s) on), Ignition (switch on), Neutral (is it needed?, maybe yes for a cold start) and Engine (kill switch on, and start button). Shut down is IFF, Ignition (Kill, Switch), Fuel (need to turn the tap(s) off) and First gear (no park brake)

Steve
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:13 AM   #67732
gjcarving
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Location: Santa Fe, NM
Oddometer: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
I have the back side covered but want to add some lights up front. I hear the Denali are the way to go as it is on a smaller bike. Thoughts?
Don't have them yet but am also looking at getting the same lights. I like the Denali 2 version which has a dimmer. From everything I have read about them they seem to be very well made and don't take a lot of juice. A bit on the pricey side, but as is with most aftermarket goodies.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:55 AM   #67733
barko1
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
Oddometer: 3,090
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
I need to turn of the petcocks every time the bike sits for more than a couple of hours, otherwise it may affect the float bowel and also cause fuel to get into the crank case.

I was hoping to get around this issue
Now I'm no great mechanic but what I think you need to do is fix the core problem, the leaky or maladjusted float. It would appear that the float is not properly sealing off the gas flow, ask me how I know . I replaced the float assembly and properly set the float height which solved my gas overflow, fuel in the crankcase problem. A new petcock might fix things as long as you always remembered to close them but if not you may get bigger problems.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:24 AM   #67734
harleyandme
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Location: South West Harvey
Oddometer: 7
Bluhduh over heated DR 650

Hiya Guys
New to this site so please excuse the lack of professionalism, recently I headed of to Cape York from Augusta in WA and got to the top,great trip but alas the mighty DR didnt fare as well as I did, the bike got hotter than usual and took forever to cool down.I ended up shipping it back to Cairns to be looked at, they did an oil pressure test and told me it was extremely high along with the oil filter being abnormaly dry, the cost for them to rectify what they didnt know was wrong would have been too high so I have put it on a truck for a return trip home. my question is...has any one had similar problems or know of what could be the cause?. I have ruled out the following. dirty air cleaner,blocked engine vent,dirty oil,water in oil,tropical temp,overloaded or over worked, dirty oil filter. any suggestions would be great
Thanks
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:16 AM   #67735
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugsOnMyBoard View Post
Thought you guys would like this -

Is that Metcalf Rd?
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:21 AM   #67736
Go Irish75
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyandme View Post
Hiya Guys
New to this site so please excuse the lack of professionalism, recently I headed of to Cape York from Augusta in WA and got to the top,great trip but alas the mighty DR didnt fare as well as I did, the bike got hotter than usual and took forever to cool down.I ended up shipping it back to Cairns to be looked at, they did an oil pressure test and told me it was extremely high along with the oil filter being abnormaly dry, the cost for them to rectify what they didnt know was wrong would have been too high so I have put it on a truck for a return trip home. my question is...has any one had similar problems or know of what could be the cause?. I have ruled out the following. dirty air cleaner,blocked engine vent,dirty oil,water in oil,tropical temp,overloaded or over worked, dirty oil filter. any suggestions would be great
Thanks
What about oil filter not being installed correctly? Hence the high temps and dry oil filter? Gotta have everything lined up perfect, including the o ring, and spring and make sure that sucker gets seated straight and proper as you sandwich it all together to close it up. Takes a bit of practice to get right, maybe something happened there.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:46 AM   #67737
Toxic Mark
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Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
I have the back side covered but want to add some lights up front. I hear the Denali are the way to go as it is on a smaller bike. Thoughts?
I have the Denali 2s on my DR. Extremely bright, especially when on full power (I set it up to be slightly less power without the highbeams on and full power with). I also applied yellow tint from Laminx to help if there is fog. At night it lights up very well. You will have no problem riding in the dark.

Wiring is a breeze. For the dual setting you will be tapping into the high beam wire on the stock harness and a keyed wire for lower power (I used the brown wire behind the headlight). There will be some extra length of wire that you will have to wind up and put somewhere.

Placing the lights was a little trickier. I used the light brackets from ProCycle. They work with the Denali light pods but they put the lefthand light pod right inline with the brake line, no bueno. What I ended up doing was getting some 1/8 stock aluminum and made a secondary bracket to offset the lights a little bit wider in order avoid the brake line. You only need to do this on the left side, but I did it for both for the sake of symmetry. Don't go too wide when offsetting or the lights/bracketry will hit the tank. 1 1/2" - 1 3/4" will be just about right.

Also, the wiring system comes with a on/off switch so that you can turn them off completely. It's a push button switch backed with adhesive that I stuck right on my speedometer. I also used an Eastern Beaver headlight relay that is switched so that I can turn off my main headlight, too.

Pictures of my setup are in the "no pissing and moaning" thread. Can't remember what post.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:52 AM   #67738
Toxic Mark
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Whoops, must've deleted them. I get some back up soon.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:52 PM   #67739
PhL0aTeR
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Location: Color-red-o
Oddometer: 511
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR View Post
Thought id pop in for some free advice... lol... i recently changed my chain/sprockets, new brakes, adjusted the valves, new tires, etc and lately ive noticed an extra noise im not used to... Its almost like a "clattering" sound, definitely not something ive noticed before, and its intermittent as well. Tried to figure out what exactly I could do to recreate the problem, and it seems to be when im about half throttle at the lower end of the RPM range, but above the point where it wants to bog of course.

Any thoughts?
Seems like that noise was my bike telling me im a cheap bastard.... $50 chains last <4k miles

at any rate.... this is the aftermath:

Can anyone tell me with certainty what size that headless bolt is directly under the output shaft?

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Old 07-27-2012, 02:19 PM   #67740
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR View Post
Seems like that noise was my bike telling me im a cheap bastard.... $50 chains last <4k miles

at any rate.... this is the aftermath:

Can anyone tell me with certainty what size that headless bolt is directly under the output shaft?

# 27 I believe......6x20

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...RANKCASE_COVER
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