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Old 08-20-2007, 10:47 PM   #6766
Turbocelica
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more license mount pics....

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Old 08-20-2007, 10:49 PM   #6767
Turbocelica
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more license mount pics....

last one....250 miles after installation and it's still nice & solid.
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:23 PM   #6768
rosscoact
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyhound
That Baja designs light will be worse than stock.
I use the stock light with a 55low/100w high bulb and an upgraded harness with relay from TPI.
Mine is easily twice as bright as stock.
The key is getting full voltage to that light.
so is that the superbrite bulb and harness on the TPIMOTORCYCLEPARTS site?

That looks brilliant (pardon the pun) and cheap as chips thanks.

and now the bulb and and harness are winging their way across the Pacific

rossco
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rosscoact screwed with this post 08-21-2007 at 02:32 AM
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:06 AM   #6769
drhach
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Brake light switch

Hi Everyone. I have 2000 dr650. I recently installed the dr250 taillight. I found after the fact that the brake light does not come on when I pull the front brake lever. It works with rear brake pedal. I don't think this is related to the taillight install. I think I just happened to notice it. It doesen't seem like the two could be related. Is it common for the front switch to go out? I'm hoping that someone can point me to a common issue before I have to bust out the multimeter and start digging. Any suggestion. BTW, yes, I reconnected all of the wires.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:46 AM   #6770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyhound
That Baja designs light will be worse than stock.
I use the stock light with a 55low/100w high bulb and an upgraded harness with relay from TPI.
Mine is easily twice as bright as stock.
The key is getting full voltage to that light.
the TPI website says that the high power bulb & harness run directly off the battery. I'm assuming that the stock light runs from the stator. Any issues with the battery running down so far?
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:56 AM   #6771
Zapp22
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jo
you need to give us more info.
i have an 02 also, near same mileage.
With the bike fully warmed up, just sitting at idle, or still... can you hear the noise at idle? if you crank up the throttle a little bit, sitting still in neutral, can you hear the noise?
if you clank it into gear but hold in the clutch, do you hear the noise?

i would be very cautious..... if you're hearing that asymmetric kind of inside-the-case noise, you need to stop riding it. small chance that your NSU lost a fastener and that can destroy your motor.

if however the noise is NOT there under these conditions, then what he said about chain etc etc......

it doesn't happen to have an oversize front sprocket does it? if so, pull the cover and look for wear on your case, facing the front of the front sprocket [chain slamming the case]

Quote:
Originally Posted by joelykool
Have a 2002 DR 650 that I recently bought due to this thread and overall am very happy with the bike. However, it just started making a metallic noise that seems to be coming from the engine. I'm wondering if the valves are getting too loose. Can you hear the valves tapping through a helmet and with wind blowing b/c that is how loud it is. Bike has 1,700 miles on it and were never adjusted to my knowledge.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:57 AM   #6772
Dirty Harry
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Jet question...

Greetings!

My local shop didnt have any "suzuki jets" because they were "odd" so I asked to look through their jets and found some genuine yamaha jets for Mikuni carbs that look (to me) the same as the suzuki jets. they even have that little square symbol on them where the jet # is.

I got a 142.5 and a 145 to see what works, as I found that my 150 (stock pipe and airbox) while fine for Indiana, is to rich(?) for the 2000 ft elevation of Deals gap? when I would try to acclerate hard it would bog and buck/miss

I am planning some high elevation riding all over the south west and dont want it to run lean, but also want it to run fine at altitude...

Anyone used "yamaha" jets in their DR?
DH
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:02 AM   #6773
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[quote=Dirty Harry]Greetings!

My local shop didnt have any "suzuki jets" because they were "odd" so I asked to look through their jets and found some genuine yamaha jets for Mikuni carbs that look (to me) the same as the suzuki jets. they even have that little square symbol on them where the jet # is.

I got a 142.5 and a 145 to see what works, as I found that my 150 (stock pipe and airbox) while fine for Indiana, is to rich(?) for the 2000 ft elevation of Deals gap? when I would try to acclerate hard it would bog and buck/miss

I am planning some high elevation riding all over the south west and dont want it to run lean, but also want it to run fine at altitude...


Anyone used "yamaha" jets in their DR?
DH[/Quate]
You will run richer at higher altitudes, so i woudn't worry about it too much. If you lean it out for real high altitudes(over3,500ft) then you will run too lean when you get back down. That would be bad.

And a Mukuni jet is a Makuni jet. You just have to see if you have the small seat, or the large one. Other than that, it shoudn't matter as long as you got the size you wanted
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:04 AM   #6774
Zapp22
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Thumb $60 seat rework

Just got back a rework that one of you inspired! Wish I could give credit but it was about a thousand posts ago

So, I wanted Flatter, Fatter, Lower, Level. That was the goal.
I held my 02 upright and took a shop level and drew two lines on the side, near the top surface.... one "shallow cut" and another "deeper cut". I got the level "gravity neutral" then gave it a very very slight tilt toward the front... maybe 3 degrees or so. Mainly because I saw that to make a perfectly 'neutral' cut would result in really thin padding toward the rear. Took it to Douglas Krieger here in New Braunfels, whose specialty is Marine upholstery. Showed him what I needed and he suggested adding "wings" to the sides as one of our own group did. The stocker seat actually begs for this type of widening because it is tapered outward, giving a pretty good grip on the sides for applying wedge-shaped widener wings. Mine came out to be a couple of inches wider, with part of the widening simply due to flattening down the seat, taking the edges to their max, then adding about 20mm of foam 'wings' to each side [40mm total added foam in addition to the gain from flattening]. He cut to the deeper line, then overlaid the whole affair with a thin section of fairly dense foam he uses for seats. The thing is magical. I would describe it as a "corbin light" kind of feel. Plenty wide enough [in fact, a short guy would complain about it] and firm and flattish. easy to redistribute your weight in any direction.

for my second DR I think I will only change the top 'cap', going one step softer on that piece.

Doug actually said that the stocker cover is very good material. I had started out saying that I wanted a stretchier top cover [thinking to re-use the side vinyl but stitch in something different for the top piece]. He dissuaded me from going to another material, saying the stocker is a good piece with plenty of flex compared to other materials he might choose. The stock cover contours to the new seat very nicely.

My buns and I are very happy. Great mod for $60.

I'll post pics this afternoon... right now, back to work
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:12 PM   #6775
Rusty Rocket
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I can never try someones bike with a better seat, because I still have the stock one and have learned to live with it. If I tried a better seat I would probably hate mine. Then I'd have to get something better. If I have extra cash around I will be doing things other than seat upgrade. Suspension comes to mind. Ignorance is bliss.
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:21 PM   #6776
ninja gwairf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
I can never try someones bike with a better seat, because I still have the stock one and have learned to live with it. If I tried a better seat I would probably hate mine. Then I'd have to get something better. If I have extra cash around I will be doing things other than seat upgrade. Suspension comes to mind. Ignorance is bliss.
Amen.
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:41 PM   #6777
rallyhound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbadger
the TPI website says that the high power bulb & harness run directly off the battery. I'm assuming that the stock light runs from the stator. Any issues with the battery running down so far?
.


The stock light works on battery voltage. It is not wired directly to the stator.
The stator charges the battery.
The TPI harness connects directly to the battery and uses 2 relays to provide full voltage to the headlight and uses larger wires that are able to supply the increased amp draw that is needed to power a higher wattage bulb.
So you get more volts to the light and more amps to the light without risking melting the stock wires.
You simply plug the new harness into the old headlight wiring and mount the relays somewhere near the carb.
all the stock high/low controls operate as stock.
It looke to me to be about twice as bright as stock.
Keeping in mind the max charging capacity is 200 watts and you are using half that just for the high beam so you may not be able to run vests/ grip heaters and the high beam all at once but you will not need the high beam as much because the low works so much better.

I can run my high beam for hours on end without and loss of battery voltage, at least at normal riding speeds.
I doubt the charging system would maintain the battery at idle though.
.
I did not buy the TPI bulb because it is a 60L/55 high. bulb.
I went with a 55L/100H bulb.
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:48 PM   #6778
ninja gwairf
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quick question....just installed a new fmf q2 muffler. When i first ran it, no smoke, but then smoke started coming out. Nothing crazy, but it'd definately there. I shut it off pretty quick. Is this normal for a new exhaust or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:35 PM   #6779
Frank Warner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja gwairf
quick question....just installed a new fmf q2 muffler. When i first ran it, no smoke, but then smoke started coming out. Nothing crazy, but it'd definately there. I shut it off pretty quick. Is this normal for a new exhaust
Normal. The new exhaust has some junk left in it by the maker .. you can wash it out .. but you won't get all of it ... The junk smokes when it gets hot .. that is why if takes some time to start smoking..
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:59 PM   #6780
Django Loco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Harry
Greetings!

My local shop didnt have any "suzuki jets" because they were "odd" so I asked to look through their jets and found some genuine yamaha jets for Mikuni carbs that look (to me) the same as the suzuki jets. they even have that little square symbol on them where the jet # is.
This is more proof how dumb most shop monkey's are. "Odd jets" sheeeesh!

Bottom line: Has NOTHING whatsoever to do with YAMKAWASUZIHonda....has to do with Mikuni or Keihin. Mikuni jets are what the DR uses. So Any hex head Mikuni with the number value you want is OK. Seems to me you would be way rich with a 150. I have removed snorkel and have an FMF and run a 142.5 at sea level. 45 pilot (to reduce backfiring only), air screw out 1/2 turn. Stock needle. Stock air filter. Plug color is a perfect tan color. Could even go leaner.
Plugs on a stock DR are nearly white.

Going over 8000 ft. I might go to a 138. (remember, 140 is the stock main jet
for 49 state bikes.) Go as lean as you can (safely) at sea level then you should be OK up to at least 8000 ft. or so. Bike will always lose power but it should not load up too bad.
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