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Old 08-21-2007, 02:12 PM   #6766
Rusty Rocket
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I can never try someones bike with a better seat, because I still have the stock one and have learned to live with it. If I tried a better seat I would probably hate mine. Then I'd have to get something better. If I have extra cash around I will be doing things other than seat upgrade. Suspension comes to mind. Ignorance is bliss.
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:21 PM   #6767
ninja gwairf
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Bham!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
I can never try someones bike with a better seat, because I still have the stock one and have learned to live with it. If I tried a better seat I would probably hate mine. Then I'd have to get something better. If I have extra cash around I will be doing things other than seat upgrade. Suspension comes to mind. Ignorance is bliss.
Amen.
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:41 PM   #6768
rallyhound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbadger
the TPI website says that the high power bulb & harness run directly off the battery. I'm assuming that the stock light runs from the stator. Any issues with the battery running down so far?
.


The stock light works on battery voltage. It is not wired directly to the stator.
The stator charges the battery.
The TPI harness connects directly to the battery and uses 2 relays to provide full voltage to the headlight and uses larger wires that are able to supply the increased amp draw that is needed to power a higher wattage bulb.
So you get more volts to the light and more amps to the light without risking melting the stock wires.
You simply plug the new harness into the old headlight wiring and mount the relays somewhere near the carb.
all the stock high/low controls operate as stock.
It looke to me to be about twice as bright as stock.
Keeping in mind the max charging capacity is 200 watts and you are using half that just for the high beam so you may not be able to run vests/ grip heaters and the high beam all at once but you will not need the high beam as much because the low works so much better.

I can run my high beam for hours on end without and loss of battery voltage, at least at normal riding speeds.
I doubt the charging system would maintain the battery at idle though.
.
I did not buy the TPI bulb because it is a 60L/55 high. bulb.
I went with a 55L/100H bulb.
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:48 PM   #6769
ninja gwairf
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quick question....just installed a new fmf q2 muffler. When i first ran it, no smoke, but then smoke started coming out. Nothing crazy, but it'd definately there. I shut it off pretty quick. Is this normal for a new exhaust or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:35 PM   #6770
Frank Warner
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja gwairf
quick question....just installed a new fmf q2 muffler. When i first ran it, no smoke, but then smoke started coming out. Nothing crazy, but it'd definately there. I shut it off pretty quick. Is this normal for a new exhaust
Normal. The new exhaust has some junk left in it by the maker .. you can wash it out .. but you won't get all of it ... The junk smokes when it gets hot .. that is why if takes some time to start smoking..
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:59 PM   #6771
Django Loco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Harry
Greetings!

My local shop didnt have any "suzuki jets" because they were "odd" so I asked to look through their jets and found some genuine yamaha jets for Mikuni carbs that look (to me) the same as the suzuki jets. they even have that little square symbol on them where the jet # is.
This is more proof how dumb most shop monkey's are. "Odd jets" sheeeesh!

Bottom line: Has NOTHING whatsoever to do with YAMKAWASUZIHonda....has to do with Mikuni or Keihin. Mikuni jets are what the DR uses. So Any hex head Mikuni with the number value you want is OK. Seems to me you would be way rich with a 150. I have removed snorkel and have an FMF and run a 142.5 at sea level. 45 pilot (to reduce backfiring only), air screw out 1/2 turn. Stock needle. Stock air filter. Plug color is a perfect tan color. Could even go leaner.
Plugs on a stock DR are nearly white.

Going over 8000 ft. I might go to a 138. (remember, 140 is the stock main jet
for 49 state bikes.) Go as lean as you can (safely) at sea level then you should be OK up to at least 8000 ft. or so. Bike will always lose power but it should not load up too bad.
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:09 PM   #6772
Dirty Harry
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Thats what I figured, no "special ordering" for me!

Ya, I was definitely loading up at 2000 feet, so I think Ill see how it runs with the stock 140 at 800 feet, and possibly bump it to a 142.5 after a plug check.

I'v only been getting 40-45 mpg so hopefully leaning it back out will up that a bit.

I should probably just jet it for 800ft and be prepared to take the air box cover off when I know I'll be in the 5-8000 range since no jetting will work WELL for everything...

Thanks for the help!
DH
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:32 PM   #6773
DRnewguy
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Joined: May 2007
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Looking for a Q2

Any hints for a Noob looking for an FMF Q2 for my '07 DR650. Tried to order one, and FMF has discontinued them. Any sites you could point me towards?

Any other brands I should be considering? The Staintune is a little out of my price range.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:11 PM   #6774
Bogiewan
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Aliso Viejo,CA
Oddometer: 133
Dirt nooB

I just picked up a DR K5 with 20k on the clock.
Being new to riding in the dirt I have a few nooB questions...

1) Should I use a different chain lube than for the street? Lube more often? Less often?
2) Any suggestions for supporting the bike without a center stand for lubing the chain?

**** after posting I decided to order a Hawkeoiler and see how that goes****

3) Any suggestions for basic dual sport apparel ?
I know I need an off road lid and goggles.
Do I need more armor than standard street jacket and pants?
Are my street boots OK (Sidi Sport Tepors) or do I really need the high ones?

Thanks for the help.

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Bogiewan screwed with this post 08-22-2007 at 12:09 AM
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:52 PM   #6775
meanolpa
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Gunnison, CO
Oddometer: 99
Q2

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRnewguy
Any hints for a Noob looking for an FMF Q2 for my '07 DR650. Tried to order one, and FMF has discontinued them. Any sites you could point me towards?

Any other brands I should be considering? The Staintune is a little out of my price range.

Thanks in advance.
The last time I checked Jesse at Kientech had them in stock: http://kientech.com/DR650ProdList.htm
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:55 AM   #6776
Stackator
F800GS goodness
 
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Joined: May 2006
Location: North Ryde, NSW Australia
Oddometer: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
This is more proof how dumb most shop monkey's are. "Odd jets" sheeeesh!

Bottom line: Has NOTHING whatsoever to do with YAMKAWASUZIHonda....has to do with Mikuni or Keihin. Mikuni jets are what the DR uses. So Any hex head Mikuni with the number value you want is OK. Seems to me you would be way rich with a 150. I have removed snorkel and have an FMF and run a 142.5 at sea level. 45 pilot (to reduce backfiring only), air screw out 1/2 turn. Stock needle. Stock air filter. Plug color is a perfect tan color. Could even go leaner.
Plugs on a stock DR are nearly white.

Going over 8000 ft. I might go to a 138. (remember, 140 is the stock main jet
for 49 state bikes.) Go as lean as you can (safely) at sea level then you should be OK up to at least 8000 ft. or so. Bike will always lose power but it should not load up too bad.
Thats interesting because I was told there are small hex, large hex, small round, large round.

When I opened up my carby I found the large round main jet (which is what I ended up installing).

My marine mechanic mate mentioned that some of the hex heads are used in jet skis.

Pick of my main jet below:


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Old 08-22-2007, 03:55 AM   #6777
Pickled Amnesiac
ex Fishbulb....
 
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Oberon.... home of the.... pinetree?
Oddometer: 1,238
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stackator
Thats interesting because I was told there are small hex, large hex, small round, large round.

When I opened up my carby I found the large round main jet (which is what I ended up installing).

My marine mechanic mate mentioned that some of the hex heads are used in jet skis.

Pick of my main jet below:


youve got really knobbly knees stack........

cheers fish
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:38 AM   #6778
Stackator
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Location: North Ryde, NSW Australia
Oddometer: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamodu-fishbulb
youve got really knobbly knees stack........

cheers fish
Thanks I will pass it on to my assistant, they are his knees which I think got in that condition from kick boxing and karate
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:46 AM   #6779
bcbadger
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
Oddometer: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyhound
.


The stock light works on battery voltage. It is not wired directly to the stator.
The stator charges the battery.
The TPI harness connects directly to the battery and uses 2 relays to provide full voltage to the headlight and uses larger wires that are able to supply the increased amp draw that is needed to power a higher wattage bulb.
So you get more volts to the light and more amps to the light without risking melting the stock wires.
You simply plug the new harness into the old headlight wiring and mount the relays somewhere near the carb.
all the stock high/low controls operate as stock.
It looke to me to be about twice as bright as stock.
Keeping in mind the max charging capacity is 200 watts and you are using half that just for the high beam so you may not be able to run vests/ grip heaters and the high beam all at once but you will not need the high beam as much because the low works so much better.

I can run my high beam for hours on end without and loss of battery voltage, at least at normal riding speeds.
I doubt the charging system would maintain the battery at idle though.
.
I did not buy the TPI bulb because it is a 60L/55 high. bulb.
I went with a 55L/100H bulb.
Thanks for the info. That mod seems like the easiest way I've heard of so far to get better lighting on the DR.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:03 AM   #6780
pc1222
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: buffalo, ny
Oddometer: 125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogiewan
I just picked up a DR K5 with 20k on the clock.
Being new to riding in the dirt I have a few nooB questions...

1) Should I use a different chain lube than for the street? Lube more often? Less often?
2) Any suggestions for supporting the bike without a center stand for lubing the chain?

**** after posting I decided to order a Hawkeoiler and see how that goes****

3) Any suggestions for basic dual sport apparel ?
I know I need an off road lid and goggles.
Do I need more armor than standard street jacket and pants?
Are my street boots OK (Sidi Sport Tepors) or do I really need the high ones?

Thanks for the help.


Hay Bogiewan welcome to the DR asylum to answer your first question ? chain lube what's that ? Just kidding I like using a dry lube it has silicon in it and last for a while and water does not seem to bother it due to the silicon dirt don't stick that much either. but I due give it a good shot every other week but if i do a lot of dirt ridding I clean it as soon as possible and give it some more.. basically keep it clean and inspect it often and do what you feel works for you. I am big on preventive maint. so I don't mind the work.

Q-2 I have used steel milk crates big rocks any thing that will hold about 350 lbs. and will span the distance of the frame. NEVER rest it on the motor. Bad thing's happen!!!! now I use a lift stand not a table it works with a hydraulic floor jack.

Q-3 try this site it's one of many out there. http://www.motodepot.com/index.php

as far as your Question on boots well it all comes down to how much do you like your shins, and calves I had my leg thrown back and hit the bike from smacking my foot that alone caused me to invest in some high dirt boots. much better support and safety I think any way but it all comes down to your personal preference and the way and where you ride . I learned at an early age you don't dress for the ride. you dress for the crash !!!! well good luck have fun and again Welcome !
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