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Old 07-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #67786
Rugby4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post





It'll...buff right out?
All you have to do is reverse them and you can have the first Motard chopper. OCC eat your heart out!
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:09 PM   #67787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post
Stopped too quickly...
.
.
.
.
with the help of the car in front of me. Had the sun in my eyes so visibilty sucked and a pedestrian jumped out out in the front the car in front of me, but I didn't see him braking until it was too late. I managed to brake enough to reduce the impact quite a bit, but not enough to avoid the impact altogether.
Assuming the frames neck isn't tweaked it's not all that expensive or difficult to fix that if you only need replace the fork tubes and bushings....locating a take off complete front end might not be hard to do either. I have to guess based on your choice of rubber and minimalist (supermoto) front fender you do mostly street riding. Swapping to an inverted or cartridge front fork might be overkill for your use...and may bring on rear suspension work/expenses too.

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Old 07-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #67788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
All you have to do is reverse them and you can have the first Motard chopper. OCC eat your heart out!
Or leave them the way they are and use it for trials riding.
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:18 PM   #67789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Assuming the frames neck isn't tweaked it's not all that expensive or difficult to fix that if you only need replace the fork tubes and bushings....locating a take off complete front end might not be hard to do either. I have to guess based on your choice of rubber and minimalist (supermoto) front fender you do mostly street riding. Swapping to an inverted or cartridge front fork might be overkill for your use...and may bring on rear suspension work/expenses too.

Tech23
I'm hoping it's just the fork. I'm going to pull the front end apart and maybe magnaflux the steering head to look for any worrisome cracks. It was due for a front end overhaul anyway, so this just complicates that slightly I suppose. Haven't really decided whether to go with a replacement stock fork, or turn it into a predominantly dirt oriented machine and get something else for street duties.
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:04 PM   #67790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post
I'm hoping it's just the fork. I'm going to pull the front end apart and maybe magnaflux the steering head to look for any worrisome cracks. It was due for a front end overhaul anyway, so this just complicates that slightly I suppose. Haven't really decided whether to go with a replacement stock fork, or turn it into a predominantly dirt oriented machine and get something else for street duties.

I don't think you will find any cracks in the metal...more likely bends, look for any obvious signs like loose flaking paint on the frame at the steering head area. When you say "predominantly a dirt oriented machine"....the more serious you want to be about riding the DR off road the less sense it makes. It will always be heavy and it will never be a dirt bike. Depends on what kind of terrain you plan to ravage on it and at what pace.

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Old 07-29-2012, 07:09 PM   #67791
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Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Not to harp on about this but how slippery is the all carbon seat cover from SC! I'm getting conflicting reports: some say its good some say they move around too much and can nearly fall off - WTF.


Full carbon works for me, I can adjust my position easily, but Im certianly not sliding around at all, It was the best choice for my riding style.


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Old 07-29-2012, 09:01 PM   #67792
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Originally Posted by jhomc1300 View Post
So if I leave the airbox open and install the stock muffler, will I be OK if I don't adjust the carb?
From what I've been told, the OEM muffler might prefer one step leaner on the main. It will probably be fine right where it's at. Shoot me a PM if you are interested in selling your aftermarket can.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:53 PM   #67793
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finally an 18" rear. anyone know if a galfer wave rotor fits an rm250 hub? skipping the big bore because i dont want to shorten my engine life.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:15 AM   #67794
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I'm now using and loving a Madstad screen (18" CR in light smoke).
http://www.madstad.com/s.nl/sc.7/category.1921/.f
I can adjust if any angle and height i want and achieve ideal airflow for me!

A must do IMO if you do any long tours on your DR.
I can see over top just fine and it's out of the way when i stand up for rougher sections.
I went with light smoke so i could still see some down through it if need be.


Kept my FZ1 screen i had bolted to the stock light shield and cut out notches so the Turbo City brackets passed through.
Going to get some hand-tighten bolts so i can quickly remove the Robobrackets and shield all at once for more hardcore riding.



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Old 07-30-2012, 03:21 AM   #67795
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post
Photobucket



It'll...buff right out?
One of the guys on a ride a couple of years ago hit a sheep at 100kph and did exactly what you've done.

Being the nice bloke I am, I sold him the front end off my DR.

Then I used the money to buy a complete RMZ front end and a front wheel.

It made both of us happy campers as I'd already done springs and gold valves in the original 2008 front end and sold it complete at the replacement value of the springs and valves only, and the RMZ front end I got was so much better it defies accurate description in DR terms.

Win/win. I ended up with enough change for a new set of Renthal twin wall bars.

I have never regretted getting rid of either DR front end. I have a RMZ USD one and a RMZ conventional one. They ride very similar, but you can feel the USD is stiffer with less flex in the length of the fork leg. This shows up mainly on fast hard tar runs with heavy braking. In the dirt there's not enough in it to pick it on average.

USD front ends on eBay - $320 compete

Conventional front ends on eBay - $100~200. I got mine for $175. Suspension guy says it was in perfect condition internally. Hadn't even worn out it's first set of seals. The advantage is it's hard to pick from standard.

There's some threads on ADV about swapping out the standard for a RMZ conventional. You need to fabricate some little pieces if you want steering lock functionality and proper headlight mounting.

Totally worth it.

You will need to change the rear to get the geometry right. I used the Racetech internals replacement for the standard shock with the RMZ conventional front end lowered about 25mm. It gives it about the same geometry as a properly set up standard DR. I had to use bar risers to get the clearance under the bars for the top of the forks. I needed them anyway.

Edit: the DRZ front end swap is also popular. Basically a very similar fork externally to the conventional RMZ. Internally not quite as good, but still light years ahead of the standard DR.



Picture of the conventional RMZ front and Racetech rear - in shopping cart mode with street rubber. 0.55kg/mm front springs and 8.3kg/mm rear. With the Pirellis on it scrapes the pegs and corners on tar amazingly well compared to standard. Worth the effort just for that. Of road with knobbies on it's a whole new ball game compared to a standard one.

But it looks perfectly normal.



Where the USD front end and modified rear don't look remotely standard. work slightly better, but draw too much attention for my liking. My favourite line for curious people is that I'm pre-production testing the next generation DR for Suzuki. That's gotten some fun responses. Apparently I'm a bad man.

Snowy screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 03:52 AM
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:30 AM   #67796
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I'm now using and loving a Madstad screen (18" CR in light smoke).
http://www.madstad.com/s.nl/sc.7/category.1921/.f
I can adjust if any angle and height i want and achieve ideal airflow for me!

A must do IMO if you do any long tours on your DR.
I can see over top just fine and it's out of the way when i stand up for rougher sections.
I went with light smoke so i could still see some down through it if need be.


Kept my FZ1 screen i had bolted to the stock light shield and cut out notches so the Turbo City brackets passed through.
Going to get some hand-tighten bolts so i can quickly remove the Robobrackets and shield all at once for more hardcore riding.
It almost looks like the shield would slide forward and down far enough, with the right mounts on the frame, to be completely out of the way and provide protection for the headlight when off road.

If you see what I mean.

I gave up on a screen on the DR because it was just plain dangerous off road. Primarily because it couldn't be moved out of neck chopping/face crunching range. I have issues with my BMW screen for the same reasons.

I don't want my pretty face meeting it in one of those rapid deceleration moments.

I mean, without my looks I'd have to get by on my sense of humour...which hasn't worked to date.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:36 AM   #67797
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
finally an 18" rear. anyone know if a galfer wave rotor fits an rm250 hub? skipping the big bore because i dont want to shorten my engine life.
Check outside diameter of the disc.

I know when I changed to an 18 inch DRZ rear I had to swap the DRZ caliper bracket, caliper and hose with the DR one because the disc was smaller in diameter. Edit: the hose because of the angle it mounts to the caliper is different to the DR one and the DR hose wouldn't play the game.

It's not overly difficult, just a PITA if you swap backwards and forwards between different wheels.

I decided to use a DR wheel and lace a 18 inch rim on instead. Faster change over.
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:04 AM   #67798
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I reckon you could weld the legs, add a side car and convert this set up to a leading link front end..........Now that would be first

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post





It'll...buff right out?
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #67799
Garak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
There's some threads on ADV about swapping out the standard for a RMZ conventional. You need to fabricate some little pieces if you want steering lock functionality and proper headlight mounting.

Totally worth it.
Thanks for the info Snowy, definitely considering the USD setup if I found a good price on the parts this winter. Sure looks sharp and the reviews are all pretty positive. Or the DRz setup really. I'm sure either would be more capable than I am.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
I reckon you could weld the legs, add a side car and convert this set up to a leading link front end..........Now that would be first
Now that would be an interesting project!

Still thinking about what direction I'll take this in. I'll be doing my next engineering co-op work term in a machine shop building my turning and milling skills so if I need to fabricate anything, I'll have that access at least.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:48 PM   #67800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
I mean, without my looks I'd have to get by on my sense of humour...which hasn't worked to date.
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