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Old 07-30-2012, 03:21 AM   #67786
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post
Photobucket



It'll...buff right out?
One of the guys on a ride a couple of years ago hit a sheep at 100kph and did exactly what you've done.

Being the nice bloke I am, I sold him the front end off my DR.

Then I used the money to buy a complete RMZ front end and a front wheel.

It made both of us happy campers as I'd already done springs and gold valves in the original 2008 front end and sold it complete at the replacement value of the springs and valves only, and the RMZ front end I got was so much better it defies accurate description in DR terms.

Win/win. I ended up with enough change for a new set of Renthal twin wall bars.

I have never regretted getting rid of either DR front end. I have a RMZ USD one and a RMZ conventional one. They ride very similar, but you can feel the USD is stiffer with less flex in the length of the fork leg. This shows up mainly on fast hard tar runs with heavy braking. In the dirt there's not enough in it to pick it on average.

USD front ends on eBay - $320 compete

Conventional front ends on eBay - $100~200. I got mine for $175. Suspension guy says it was in perfect condition internally. Hadn't even worn out it's first set of seals. The advantage is it's hard to pick from standard.

There's some threads on ADV about swapping out the standard for a RMZ conventional. You need to fabricate some little pieces if you want steering lock functionality and proper headlight mounting.

Totally worth it.

You will need to change the rear to get the geometry right. I used the Racetech internals replacement for the standard shock with the RMZ conventional front end lowered about 25mm. It gives it about the same geometry as a properly set up standard DR. I had to use bar risers to get the clearance under the bars for the top of the forks. I needed them anyway.

Edit: the DRZ front end swap is also popular. Basically a very similar fork externally to the conventional RMZ. Internally not quite as good, but still light years ahead of the standard DR.



Picture of the conventional RMZ front and Racetech rear - in shopping cart mode with street rubber. 0.55kg/mm front springs and 8.3kg/mm rear. With the Pirellis on it scrapes the pegs and corners on tar amazingly well compared to standard. Worth the effort just for that. Of road with knobbies on it's a whole new ball game compared to a standard one.

But it looks perfectly normal.



Where the USD front end and modified rear don't look remotely standard. work slightly better, but draw too much attention for my liking. My favourite line for curious people is that I'm pre-production testing the next generation DR for Suzuki. That's gotten some fun responses. Apparently I'm a bad man.

Snowy screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 03:52 AM
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:30 AM   #67787
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I'm now using and loving a Madstad screen (18" CR in light smoke).
http://www.madstad.com/s.nl/sc.7/category.1921/.f
I can adjust if any angle and height i want and achieve ideal airflow for me!

A must do IMO if you do any long tours on your DR.
I can see over top just fine and it's out of the way when i stand up for rougher sections.
I went with light smoke so i could still see some down through it if need be.


Kept my FZ1 screen i had bolted to the stock light shield and cut out notches so the Turbo City brackets passed through.
Going to get some hand-tighten bolts so i can quickly remove the Robobrackets and shield all at once for more hardcore riding.
It almost looks like the shield would slide forward and down far enough, with the right mounts on the frame, to be completely out of the way and provide protection for the headlight when off road.

If you see what I mean.

I gave up on a screen on the DR because it was just plain dangerous off road. Primarily because it couldn't be moved out of neck chopping/face crunching range. I have issues with my BMW screen for the same reasons.

I don't want my pretty face meeting it in one of those rapid deceleration moments.

I mean, without my looks I'd have to get by on my sense of humour...which hasn't worked to date.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:36 AM   #67788
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Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
finally an 18" rear. anyone know if a galfer wave rotor fits an rm250 hub? skipping the big bore because i dont want to shorten my engine life.
Check outside diameter of the disc.

I know when I changed to an 18 inch DRZ rear I had to swap the DRZ caliper bracket, caliper and hose with the DR one because the disc was smaller in diameter. Edit: the hose because of the angle it mounts to the caliper is different to the DR one and the DR hose wouldn't play the game.

It's not overly difficult, just a PITA if you swap backwards and forwards between different wheels.

I decided to use a DR wheel and lace a 18 inch rim on instead. Faster change over.
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:04 AM   #67789
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I reckon you could weld the legs, add a side car and convert this set up to a leading link front end..........Now that would be first

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post





It'll...buff right out?
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #67790
Garak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
There's some threads on ADV about swapping out the standard for a RMZ conventional. You need to fabricate some little pieces if you want steering lock functionality and proper headlight mounting.

Totally worth it.
Thanks for the info Snowy, definitely considering the USD setup if I found a good price on the parts this winter. Sure looks sharp and the reviews are all pretty positive. Or the DRz setup really. I'm sure either would be more capable than I am.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
I reckon you could weld the legs, add a side car and convert this set up to a leading link front end..........Now that would be first
Now that would be an interesting project!

Still thinking about what direction I'll take this in. I'll be doing my next engineering co-op work term in a machine shop building my turning and milling skills so if I need to fabricate anything, I'll have that access at least.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:48 PM   #67791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
I mean, without my looks I'd have to get by on my sense of humour...which hasn't worked to date.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:15 PM   #67792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post
. Or the DRz setup really.
Having done the RMZ fork swap and then revamping the rear travel to get a match it would be much easier to slide the forks of a DRZ up a little extra and not have to revamp the rear end so much. If I had it to do over I would go with DRZ set up although I think mine is better than the DRZ setup now that its done.

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Old 07-30-2012, 06:57 PM   #67793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post
Having done the RMZ fork swap and then revamping the rear travel to get a match it would be much easier to slide the forks of a DRZ up a little extra and not have to revamp the rear end so much. If I had it to do over I would go with DRZ set up although I think mine is better than the DRZ setup now that its done.

Why do you say you would do the DRZ conversion over your USD forks now? I am actually curious since contemplating the change over. DRZ forks can be had for fairly cheap as can RMZ forks.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:49 PM   #67794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
It almost looks like the shield would slide forward and down far enough, with the right mounts on the frame, to be completely out of the way and provide protection for the headlight when off road.

If you see what I mean.

I gave up on a screen on the DR because it was just plain dangerous off road. Primarily because it couldn't be moved out of neck chopping/face crunching range. I have issues with my BMW screen for the same reasons.

I don't want my pretty face meeting it in one of those rapid deceleration moments.

I mean, without my looks I'd have to get by on my sense of humour...which hasn't worked to date.
i completely understand what you're describing and yes i think the screen would go down like that and out of the way. it would be quicker however to have 4 hand adjustable T nuts/bolts and just remove the robo brackets & screen all at once and not mess with the screen position. all that would remain would be the turbo city brackets http://www.turbocity.com/product_inf...roducts_id=718

if i was riding in a group, i'd worry about a rock being throw my way and taking out the screen (have a clear light guard on my lens now). if was touring alone and needed it out of the way then yes i might do that. i can stand and look over just fine and sit and see directly over well enough. i also have the option to quickly remove the screen with 4 T-nuts and leave the robobrackets in place if need be.
i'm thinking of keeping a spare pillow case in my top box to act as a protection sack for the shield and have straps so it can sit on top of the top box if need be or on top of my Giant Loop coyote.

i'm morphing and using my DR more and more as an ADV traveling touring bike not as a big dirtbike. i travel alot on the street and many times never even touch dirt. no matter what you do to make a DR better off-road it's still a way heavy machine for serious dirt work. it is what it is. with this Madstad screen i still have no issues riding easy dirt plus standing up for harder dirt.
The screen sits away from me in a way that does not feel dangerous. Not alot different than where the screen sits for the V2 KLR, 660 Tenere, F650gs etc. These are the kinda bikes i'm modeling after not 450 dirtbikes...considering a DRZ400 down the road for that kinda riding i do.

this was what my DR looked like before the new screen. rear rack and pelican case are back on my bike.
getting prepped to meet up with the BDR guys next month for the COBDR ride
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744112

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Old 07-31-2012, 02:34 AM   #67795
Snowy
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Yeah, I forgot about riding in groups. I do so much of mine alone I keep forgetting thee are actually well adjusted normal people out there in the world.

And the height of the RMZ forks is an issue best addressed by a rear end swap to get the geometry just right.

The DRZ swap is a viable alternative. They're cheap.

Just wait until after I buy my next set before you start bidding on them. I told everyone about the RMZ swap right before I went to buy another set and the prices seemed to shoot up overnight. I think we were bidding against each other.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:23 AM   #67796
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A friend of mine just bought a Suzuki Freewind (xf650) that has the same engine as DR650SE. The only difference is dual inlets in the head for the dual carb. And larger valves. Does anyone have any info on that carb? Any jet kit available for it? Or did anyone use that head to mod their DR?
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:30 AM   #67797
nat_han
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My Dr650SE



My Dr650 with loads of add ons and farkled for my liking.

Just 1 question to ask regarding the front suspension 'problem' i might be facing...
History: Installed Ricor Intiminators, Progressive Springs, 5wt Maxima Fork Oil, Original Suzuki Spacers.
I'm 57kilos/ 130lbs, always ride with those 3 alu boxes.
Changed tires to the Tourance at 4000kms. Did not do Balancing after that.

Perceived Problem: At slower speed of between 30-50 km/h, on road/tarmac conditions, the handlebar jerks up and down over every single unevenness I ride across. There's no smoothness. I want to feel less of such vibs on the handlebar- the throbbing feeling..

2nd Problem- At speed of 120km/h(74.5 mph) and above, on open highway, the front catches wind easily causing the front tire/rim to wobble left and right. If I do not slow down, a 'tankslap' would likely happen. I would like to ride constanlyt at 130 to 135km/h without feeling that instability at the front.

Would reducing the original spacers' thickness help in solving the first problem I have? I got a feeling that there's too much "preload"...
Should I try Balancing of both front and rear rims? I did not do that after I changed tires couple months back.

For the 2nd problem, I've a safari tank on the bike and the RalleMoto Damper wouldn't fit without some major shifting and such... So, I'm thinking that maybe a Fork Brace together with lowering the triple clamps on the fork tubes will settle it for me...

Comments and advice?

Thank you!
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:33 AM   #67798
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
getting prepped to meet up with the BDR guys next month for the COBDR ride
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744112
Nice Bill !
Tony Huegel riding with you fellas too ?
Im headed for the WBCDR and OBCDR 9/1 myself. The DR is "locked and loaded" and will be trucked out in 12 days.
Like you, I find myself reaching for the DR more and more no matter where I intend to ride, even strictly asphalt. I just really like it.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:33 AM   #67799
nat_han
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My Dr650SE

Double Posting.
Sorry...

nat_han screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 05:33 AM Reason: Double Posting.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:34 AM   #67800
Snowy
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The UK DR forums had something on fitting the freewind head to a DR.

There were some issues if I remember correctly. I looked at getting a head, but the UK guy selling it dicked around.

I can't for the life of me remember if they were single inlet dual outlet, or dual inlet dual outlet. I think single inlet dual outlet.

Did the freewind frame have a single front down tube or a double?

There was an issue, not insurmountable, but something.
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