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Old 07-31-2012, 04:23 AM   #67786
Bob808
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A friend of mine just bought a Suzuki Freewind (xf650) that has the same engine as DR650SE. The only difference is dual inlets in the head for the dual carb. And larger valves. Does anyone have any info on that carb? Any jet kit available for it? Or did anyone use that head to mod their DR?
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:30 AM   #67787
nat_han
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My Dr650SE



My Dr650 with loads of add ons and farkled for my liking.

Just 1 question to ask regarding the front suspension 'problem' i might be facing...
History: Installed Ricor Intiminators, Progressive Springs, 5wt Maxima Fork Oil, Original Suzuki Spacers.
I'm 57kilos/ 130lbs, always ride with those 3 alu boxes.
Changed tires to the Tourance at 4000kms. Did not do Balancing after that.

Perceived Problem: At slower speed of between 30-50 km/h, on road/tarmac conditions, the handlebar jerks up and down over every single unevenness I ride across. There's no smoothness. I want to feel less of such vibs on the handlebar- the throbbing feeling..

2nd Problem- At speed of 120km/h(74.5 mph) and above, on open highway, the front catches wind easily causing the front tire/rim to wobble left and right. If I do not slow down, a 'tankslap' would likely happen. I would like to ride constanlyt at 130 to 135km/h without feeling that instability at the front.

Would reducing the original spacers' thickness help in solving the first problem I have? I got a feeling that there's too much "preload"...
Should I try Balancing of both front and rear rims? I did not do that after I changed tires couple months back.

For the 2nd problem, I've a safari tank on the bike and the RalleMoto Damper wouldn't fit without some major shifting and such... So, I'm thinking that maybe a Fork Brace together with lowering the triple clamps on the fork tubes will settle it for me...

Comments and advice?

Thank you!
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:33 AM   #67788
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
getting prepped to meet up with the BDR guys next month for the COBDR ride
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744112
Nice Bill !
Tony Huegel riding with you fellas too ?
Im headed for the WBCDR and OBCDR 9/1 myself. The DR is "locked and loaded" and will be trucked out in 12 days.
Like you, I find myself reaching for the DR more and more no matter where I intend to ride, even strictly asphalt. I just really like it.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:33 AM   #67789
nat_han
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My Dr650SE

Double Posting.
Sorry...

nat_han screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 04:33 AM Reason: Double Posting.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:34 AM   #67790
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The UK DR forums had something on fitting the freewind head to a DR.

There were some issues if I remember correctly. I looked at getting a head, but the UK guy selling it dicked around.

I can't for the life of me remember if they were single inlet dual outlet, or dual inlet dual outlet. I think single inlet dual outlet.

Did the freewind frame have a single front down tube or a double?

There was an issue, not insurmountable, but something.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:44 AM   #67791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
questions...
Try checking your front preload. Remember the basic formula is with the bike fuelled and loaded with you on it you should be using about 1/3 of the available front and rear travel. Check both, the rear being too soft will add rake to the front and make the wobbles potentially worse. If you have PVC spacers you change the preload by changing the length of the spacers.

Try swapping the wide flat front mudguard for something smaller along the lines of the motard Acerbis guards every one seems to use.

At 57kg, without being nasty, I'd say you're on the light side of what the spring rates are best for. Your front end is probably just not reacting to bumps and irregularities on the road surface. Stiction in the fork seals, and the heavy springs, combined with the wrong pre-load will make the front end feel rigid.

I'm guessing you may not be super tall either, forgive me if that's too direct. So perhaps the lowering option will help when getting the pre-loads and set up correct.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:35 AM   #67792
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Stock front spring length?

Can someone tell me the measurement of the stock front springs?
Bought some springs off fleabay claiming they are ohlins? i thinks me might have been shafted?

The one's I have here are 550cm long.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:37 AM   #67793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speirsy View Post
Can someone tell me the measurement of the stock front springs?
Bought some springs off fleabay claiming they are ohlins? i thinks me might have been shafted?

The one's I have here are 550cm long.
Many of the aftermarket springs are quite a bit shorter and require a longer preload spacer.

The Suzuki service manual says the service limit is 548mm
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:39 AM   #67794
nat_han
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Try checking your front preload. Remember the basic formula is with the bike fuelled and loaded with you on it you should be using about 1/3 of the available front and rear travel. Check both, the rear being too soft will add rake to the front and make the wobbles potentially worse. If you have PVC spacers you change the preload by changing the length of the spacers.

Try swapping the wide flat front mudguard for something smaller along the lines of the motard Acerbis guards every one seems to use.

At 57kg, without being nasty, I'd say you're on the light side of what the spring rates are best for. Your front end is probably just not reacting to bumps and irregularities on the road surface. Stiction in the fork seals, and the heavy springs, combined with the wrong pre-load will make the front end feel rigid.

I'm guessing you may not be super tall either, forgive me if that's too direct. So perhaps the lowering option will help when getting the pre-loads and set up correct.
Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I'm only 167cm tall.

I've installed the lowering links from Procycle, and have lowered the rear suspension(using the upper hole attachment at the bottom of the shock).

How do i go about checking for the usage of the 1/3 travel length of my front forks? When I'm on the bike(fully fuelled), only the rear suspension sags. The front never moves unless I apply front brakes or go over humps..
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:27 AM   #67795
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[QUOTE nat_han My Dr650 with loads of add ons and farkled for my liking.

Just 1 question to ask regarding the front suspension 'problem' i might be facing...
History: Installed Ricor Intiminators, Progressive Springs, 5wt Maxima Fork Oil, Original Suzuki Spacers.
I'm 57kilos/ 130lbs, always ride with those 3 alu boxes.
Changed tires to the Tourance at 4000kms. Did not do Balancing after that.

Perceived Problem: At slower speed of between 30-50 km/h, on road/tarmac conditions, the handlebar jerks up and down over every single unevenness I ride across. There's no smoothness. I want to feel less of such vibs on the handlebar- the throbbing feeling..

2nd Problem- At speed of 120km/h(74.5 mph) and above, on open highway, the front catches wind easily causing the front tire/rim to wobble left and right. If I do not slow down, a 'tankslap' would likely happen. I would like to ride constanlyt at 130 to 135km/h without feeling that instability at the front.

Would reducing the original spacers' thickness help in solving the first problem I have? I got a feeling that there's too much "preload"...
Should I try Balancing of both front and rear rims? I did not do that after I changed tires couple months back.

For the 2nd problem, I've a safari tank on the bike and the RalleMoto Damper wouldn't fit without some major shifting and such... So, I'm thinking that maybe a Fork Brace together with lowering the triple clamps on the fork tubes will settle it for me...

Comments and advice?

Thank you![/QUOTE]

I just went thru this same thing yesterday, i know someone is going to say what i tell you is WRONG but it worked for me, take the forks off and look at your fork fluid level, the one i did yesterday was not full enough and did exactly like your bike.

A few days ago we did the install, and never could get the front forks to ride smooth, it was just as you described, we checked the fluid level again and it was low, we added fluid, set to the correct level for the second time, its real smooth now.

Edit. you may try to Ricor and ask their opinion, its damn near impossible to get them on the phone though.

ChromeSux screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 06:33 AM
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:29 AM   #67796
Snowy
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The front is your problem then. The easiest way is to have a stand, or centre stand that can take the full weight of the bike.

With the weight on the stand and the front tyre only just touching the ground, measure from axle centre to the bottom of the lower triple clamp.

Then, sit on the bike and have someone repeat this measurement for you.

You should get a measurement approx 85mm shorter than the first.

If not, you'll need to remove the spacers from the forks and try again. I can't remember if the springs are actually long enough to run without spacers completely. I got rid of the DR forks before I'd played with them much.

I would try it without spacers, then add only enough to get pre-load right. Which you can calculate based on the difference in measurements and the length of the spacer. I suspect you will need some spacer, and that the spring rate will still be too high to give you the right "rider sag".

From the sound of it, the original standard spring rate would be stiff for you. How high did you go with the front spring rate when you fitted the new springs?

I'm about 90kg without riding gear and I have 0.55kg/mm springs, and they are stiff on road with light load. I think standard the DR was around 0.44kg/mm from memory. Which I read somewhere is for a rider of about 60kg.

Feel free to correct me you other guys...oh wait..DR forum...someone will be along any second...
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:40 AM   #67797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
The UK DR forums had something on fitting the freewind head to a DR.

There were some issues if I remember correctly. I looked at getting a head, but the UK guy selling it dicked around.

I can't for the life of me remember if they were single inlet dual outlet, or dual inlet dual outlet. I think single inlet dual outlet.

Did the freewind frame have a single front down tube or a double?

There was an issue, not insurmountable, but something.
Freewind head is dual inlet and single outlet. It has 33mm mikunis.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:04 AM   #67798
ram1000
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Why do you say you would do the DRZ conversion over your USD forks now? I am actually curious since contemplating the change over. DRZ forks can be had for fairly cheap as can RMZ forks.
The DRZ forks have 11" travel which is plenty to work with, and the internals are such that they can be brought up to competition specs. The DRZ forks also have cartridge dampening which allows total adjust ability. The DR 650 is maybe 400 lbs wet and although I gained a lot of speed over whoops I don't often ride that fast and if I did I would go back to an mx bike. The RMZ forks required the RMZ front wheel assembly and I found the front brake for the RMZ to be too small- since then I bought an EBC over sized brake for the RMZ wheel which puts things back into perspective, but the DRZ brake assembly and wheel would have been satisfactory especially off road where the change over does any good. The RMZ forks have more than 12" travel and even with the forks slid into the triple clamps 1 1/8" the natural ride height between the front and rear is still too low in the back. I had Cogent rebuild my rear shock and he added some internal travel to the shock giving somewhere around another inch in the back- that would put the rear at 11" or so. This is still not enough to raise the back to the point the front is steep enough for tight turning so I also had him increase the assembly length of the rear shock. This raised the back another half inch or so and I now have a decent turning bike although I would prefer even more difference between the front and back to play with for different tire sizes. When I had stock forks on it I used Eibach springs and slid the stock forks up about 3/4" and set my sag according to mx specifications. This gave me much quicker steering on the trail, and I wanted to match that effect with the new forks. As it sits with no rider the seat height is now 36 1/2". This is not excessive for me but I like to keep my trail bikes as low as possible for easier hill climbing and single tracking, although I am 6' 1". As the forks are set now there is 11 5/8" between the top of the front tire and the bottom of the plastic fender with the forks topped out. With 12+ inches of travel I bottom out rarely but some times into the fender. There is not enough traction between the fender and the tire to create an unexpected stop. In spite of this steep steering angle the bike slams whoops at much greater speed with no hint of tail swapping. I figure I can crash at 20+ mph more than before!

One advantage of the RMZ forks is they come stock (2007) with .47 springs. This is the exact rate I had for my aftermarket springs in the stock forks so I didn't have to change the spring rates for my ideal rate.

If I had used the DRZ forks I would not have had to extend the rear and would have kept the seat height lower. This bike is set up for me to ride and not to race but past racing experience has given me an understanding of whats needs to be done.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:03 AM   #67799
nat_han
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ChromeSux & Snowy,

Thanks for your replies.

I'll get the forks off to check out the fork fluid again.

I do not quite get what you mean and all those intricate steps of measuring the front fork travel length with my weight and bike being fuelled. Thinking of bringing the bike to a local suspension guru to ask for his opinion.
But I'd changed out the stock springs due to the 40kilo weight of the Safari Tank(with the fuel within) at the front.

I'd thought a thicker rate spring would help in this aspect. I might switch back the springs to stock just to try out the difference...

Thanks again guys!
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:10 AM   #67800
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Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
..... Thinking of bringing the bike to a local suspension guru to ask for his opinion. .....
Would be money well spent. I have never regretted a moment or a nickle I've spent learning from my local suspension guru.
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