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Old 07-30-2012, 08:49 PM   #67786
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
It almost looks like the shield would slide forward and down far enough, with the right mounts on the frame, to be completely out of the way and provide protection for the headlight when off road.

If you see what I mean.

I gave up on a screen on the DR because it was just plain dangerous off road. Primarily because it couldn't be moved out of neck chopping/face crunching range. I have issues with my BMW screen for the same reasons.

I don't want my pretty face meeting it in one of those rapid deceleration moments.

I mean, without my looks I'd have to get by on my sense of humour...which hasn't worked to date.
i completely understand what you're describing and yes i think the screen would go down like that and out of the way. it would be quicker however to have 4 hand adjustable T nuts/bolts and just remove the robo brackets & screen all at once and not mess with the screen position. all that would remain would be the turbo city brackets http://www.turbocity.com/product_inf...roducts_id=718

if i was riding in a group, i'd worry about a rock being throw my way and taking out the screen (have a clear light guard on my lens now). if was touring alone and needed it out of the way then yes i might do that. i can stand and look over just fine and sit and see directly over well enough. i also have the option to quickly remove the screen with 4 T-nuts and leave the robobrackets in place if need be.
i'm thinking of keeping a spare pillow case in my top box to act as a protection sack for the shield and have straps so it can sit on top of the top box if need be or on top of my Giant Loop coyote.

i'm morphing and using my DR more and more as an ADV traveling touring bike not as a big dirtbike. i travel alot on the street and many times never even touch dirt. no matter what you do to make a DR better off-road it's still a way heavy machine for serious dirt work. it is what it is. with this Madstad screen i still have no issues riding easy dirt plus standing up for harder dirt.
The screen sits away from me in a way that does not feel dangerous. Not alot different than where the screen sits for the V2 KLR, 660 Tenere, F650gs etc. These are the kinda bikes i'm modeling after not 450 dirtbikes...considering a DRZ400 down the road for that kinda riding i do.

this was what my DR looked like before the new screen. rear rack and pelican case are back on my bike.
getting prepped to meet up with the BDR guys next month for the COBDR ride
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744112

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eakins screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 08:58 PM
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:34 AM   #67787
Snowy
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Yeah, I forgot about riding in groups. I do so much of mine alone I keep forgetting thee are actually well adjusted normal people out there in the world.

And the height of the RMZ forks is an issue best addressed by a rear end swap to get the geometry just right.

The DRZ swap is a viable alternative. They're cheap.

Just wait until after I buy my next set before you start bidding on them. I told everyone about the RMZ swap right before I went to buy another set and the prices seemed to shoot up overnight. I think we were bidding against each other.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:23 AM   #67788
Bob808
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A friend of mine just bought a Suzuki Freewind (xf650) that has the same engine as DR650SE. The only difference is dual inlets in the head for the dual carb. And larger valves. Does anyone have any info on that carb? Any jet kit available for it? Or did anyone use that head to mod their DR?
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:30 AM   #67789
nat_han
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My Dr650SE



My Dr650 with loads of add ons and farkled for my liking.

Just 1 question to ask regarding the front suspension 'problem' i might be facing...
History: Installed Ricor Intiminators, Progressive Springs, 5wt Maxima Fork Oil, Original Suzuki Spacers.
I'm 57kilos/ 130lbs, always ride with those 3 alu boxes.
Changed tires to the Tourance at 4000kms. Did not do Balancing after that.

Perceived Problem: At slower speed of between 30-50 km/h, on road/tarmac conditions, the handlebar jerks up and down over every single unevenness I ride across. There's no smoothness. I want to feel less of such vibs on the handlebar- the throbbing feeling..

2nd Problem- At speed of 120km/h(74.5 mph) and above, on open highway, the front catches wind easily causing the front tire/rim to wobble left and right. If I do not slow down, a 'tankslap' would likely happen. I would like to ride constanlyt at 130 to 135km/h without feeling that instability at the front.

Would reducing the original spacers' thickness help in solving the first problem I have? I got a feeling that there's too much "preload"...
Should I try Balancing of both front and rear rims? I did not do that after I changed tires couple months back.

For the 2nd problem, I've a safari tank on the bike and the RalleMoto Damper wouldn't fit without some major shifting and such... So, I'm thinking that maybe a Fork Brace together with lowering the triple clamps on the fork tubes will settle it for me...

Comments and advice?

Thank you!
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:33 AM   #67790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
getting prepped to meet up with the BDR guys next month for the COBDR ride
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744112
Nice Bill !
Tony Huegel riding with you fellas too ?
Im headed for the WBCDR and OBCDR 9/1 myself. The DR is "locked and loaded" and will be trucked out in 12 days.
Like you, I find myself reaching for the DR more and more no matter where I intend to ride, even strictly asphalt. I just really like it.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:33 AM   #67791
nat_han
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My Dr650SE

Double Posting.
Sorry...

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Old 07-31-2012, 04:34 AM   #67792
Snowy
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The UK DR forums had something on fitting the freewind head to a DR.

There were some issues if I remember correctly. I looked at getting a head, but the UK guy selling it dicked around.

I can't for the life of me remember if they were single inlet dual outlet, or dual inlet dual outlet. I think single inlet dual outlet.

Did the freewind frame have a single front down tube or a double?

There was an issue, not insurmountable, but something.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:44 AM   #67793
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
questions...
Try checking your front preload. Remember the basic formula is with the bike fuelled and loaded with you on it you should be using about 1/3 of the available front and rear travel. Check both, the rear being too soft will add rake to the front and make the wobbles potentially worse. If you have PVC spacers you change the preload by changing the length of the spacers.

Try swapping the wide flat front mudguard for something smaller along the lines of the motard Acerbis guards every one seems to use.

At 57kg, without being nasty, I'd say you're on the light side of what the spring rates are best for. Your front end is probably just not reacting to bumps and irregularities on the road surface. Stiction in the fork seals, and the heavy springs, combined with the wrong pre-load will make the front end feel rigid.

I'm guessing you may not be super tall either, forgive me if that's too direct. So perhaps the lowering option will help when getting the pre-loads and set up correct.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:35 AM   #67794
Speirsy
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Stock front spring length?

Can someone tell me the measurement of the stock front springs?
Bought some springs off fleabay claiming they are ohlins? i thinks me might have been shafted?

The one's I have here are 550cm long.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:37 AM   #67795
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speirsy View Post
Can someone tell me the measurement of the stock front springs?
Bought some springs off fleabay claiming they are ohlins? i thinks me might have been shafted?

The one's I have here are 550cm long.
Many of the aftermarket springs are quite a bit shorter and require a longer preload spacer.

The Suzuki service manual says the service limit is 548mm
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:39 AM   #67796
nat_han
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
Try checking your front preload. Remember the basic formula is with the bike fuelled and loaded with you on it you should be using about 1/3 of the available front and rear travel. Check both, the rear being too soft will add rake to the front and make the wobbles potentially worse. If you have PVC spacers you change the preload by changing the length of the spacers.

Try swapping the wide flat front mudguard for something smaller along the lines of the motard Acerbis guards every one seems to use.

At 57kg, without being nasty, I'd say you're on the light side of what the spring rates are best for. Your front end is probably just not reacting to bumps and irregularities on the road surface. Stiction in the fork seals, and the heavy springs, combined with the wrong pre-load will make the front end feel rigid.

I'm guessing you may not be super tall either, forgive me if that's too direct. So perhaps the lowering option will help when getting the pre-loads and set up correct.
Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I'm only 167cm tall.

I've installed the lowering links from Procycle, and have lowered the rear suspension(using the upper hole attachment at the bottom of the shock).

How do i go about checking for the usage of the 1/3 travel length of my front forks? When I'm on the bike(fully fuelled), only the rear suspension sags. The front never moves unless I apply front brakes or go over humps..
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:27 AM   #67797
ChromeSux
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[QUOTE nat_han My Dr650 with loads of add ons and farkled for my liking.

Just 1 question to ask regarding the front suspension 'problem' i might be facing...
History: Installed Ricor Intiminators, Progressive Springs, 5wt Maxima Fork Oil, Original Suzuki Spacers.
I'm 57kilos/ 130lbs, always ride with those 3 alu boxes.
Changed tires to the Tourance at 4000kms. Did not do Balancing after that.

Perceived Problem: At slower speed of between 30-50 km/h, on road/tarmac conditions, the handlebar jerks up and down over every single unevenness I ride across. There's no smoothness. I want to feel less of such vibs on the handlebar- the throbbing feeling..

2nd Problem- At speed of 120km/h(74.5 mph) and above, on open highway, the front catches wind easily causing the front tire/rim to wobble left and right. If I do not slow down, a 'tankslap' would likely happen. I would like to ride constanlyt at 130 to 135km/h without feeling that instability at the front.

Would reducing the original spacers' thickness help in solving the first problem I have? I got a feeling that there's too much "preload"...
Should I try Balancing of both front and rear rims? I did not do that after I changed tires couple months back.

For the 2nd problem, I've a safari tank on the bike and the RalleMoto Damper wouldn't fit without some major shifting and such... So, I'm thinking that maybe a Fork Brace together with lowering the triple clamps on the fork tubes will settle it for me...

Comments and advice?

Thank you![/QUOTE]

I just went thru this same thing yesterday, i know someone is going to say what i tell you is WRONG but it worked for me, take the forks off and look at your fork fluid level, the one i did yesterday was not full enough and did exactly like your bike.

A few days ago we did the install, and never could get the front forks to ride smooth, it was just as you described, we checked the fluid level again and it was low, we added fluid, set to the correct level for the second time, its real smooth now.

Edit. you may try to Ricor and ask their opinion, its damn near impossible to get them on the phone though.

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Old 07-31-2012, 06:29 AM   #67798
Snowy
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The front is your problem then. The easiest way is to have a stand, or centre stand that can take the full weight of the bike.

With the weight on the stand and the front tyre only just touching the ground, measure from axle centre to the bottom of the lower triple clamp.

Then, sit on the bike and have someone repeat this measurement for you.

You should get a measurement approx 85mm shorter than the first.

If not, you'll need to remove the spacers from the forks and try again. I can't remember if the springs are actually long enough to run without spacers completely. I got rid of the DR forks before I'd played with them much.

I would try it without spacers, then add only enough to get pre-load right. Which you can calculate based on the difference in measurements and the length of the spacer. I suspect you will need some spacer, and that the spring rate will still be too high to give you the right "rider sag".

From the sound of it, the original standard spring rate would be stiff for you. How high did you go with the front spring rate when you fitted the new springs?

I'm about 90kg without riding gear and I have 0.55kg/mm springs, and they are stiff on road with light load. I think standard the DR was around 0.44kg/mm from memory. Which I read somewhere is for a rider of about 60kg.

Feel free to correct me you other guys...oh wait..DR forum...someone will be along any second...
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:40 AM   #67799
KaaJa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
The UK DR forums had something on fitting the freewind head to a DR.

There were some issues if I remember correctly. I looked at getting a head, but the UK guy selling it dicked around.

I can't for the life of me remember if they were single inlet dual outlet, or dual inlet dual outlet. I think single inlet dual outlet.

Did the freewind frame have a single front down tube or a double?

There was an issue, not insurmountable, but something.
Freewind head is dual inlet and single outlet. It has 33mm mikunis.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:04 AM   #67800
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Why do you say you would do the DRZ conversion over your USD forks now? I am actually curious since contemplating the change over. DRZ forks can be had for fairly cheap as can RMZ forks.
The DRZ forks have 11" travel which is plenty to work with, and the internals are such that they can be brought up to competition specs. The DRZ forks also have cartridge dampening which allows total adjust ability. The DR 650 is maybe 400 lbs wet and although I gained a lot of speed over whoops I don't often ride that fast and if I did I would go back to an mx bike. The RMZ forks required the RMZ front wheel assembly and I found the front brake for the RMZ to be too small- since then I bought an EBC over sized brake for the RMZ wheel which puts things back into perspective, but the DRZ brake assembly and wheel would have been satisfactory especially off road where the change over does any good. The RMZ forks have more than 12" travel and even with the forks slid into the triple clamps 1 1/8" the natural ride height between the front and rear is still too low in the back. I had Cogent rebuild my rear shock and he added some internal travel to the shock giving somewhere around another inch in the back- that would put the rear at 11" or so. This is still not enough to raise the back to the point the front is steep enough for tight turning so I also had him increase the assembly length of the rear shock. This raised the back another half inch or so and I now have a decent turning bike although I would prefer even more difference between the front and back to play with for different tire sizes. When I had stock forks on it I used Eibach springs and slid the stock forks up about 3/4" and set my sag according to mx specifications. This gave me much quicker steering on the trail, and I wanted to match that effect with the new forks. As it sits with no rider the seat height is now 36 1/2". This is not excessive for me but I like to keep my trail bikes as low as possible for easier hill climbing and single tracking, although I am 6' 1". As the forks are set now there is 11 5/8" between the top of the front tire and the bottom of the plastic fender with the forks topped out. With 12+ inches of travel I bottom out rarely but some times into the fender. There is not enough traction between the fender and the tire to create an unexpected stop. In spite of this steep steering angle the bike slams whoops at much greater speed with no hint of tail swapping. I figure I can crash at 20+ mph more than before!

One advantage of the RMZ forks is they come stock (2007) with .47 springs. This is the exact rate I had for my aftermarket springs in the stock forks so I didn't have to change the spring rates for my ideal rate.

If I had used the DRZ forks I would not have had to extend the rear and would have kept the seat height lower. This bike is set up for me to ride and not to race but past racing experience has given me an understanding of whats needs to be done.
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