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Old 08-05-2012, 10:11 AM   #67951
Kommando
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Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Question: Does anyone make or is there a part number for an adjustable needle for the stock carb? One that has the, pre EPA, standard five or so positions instead of one that you need to shim to adjust? No I don't want to change carbs as I just did the 600 mile service. I've been through the forum and didn't see anything. I can get, and have, various needles for the Dellortos on my Eye-talian bikes so there must be Mikuni needles available. Or do I have to buy a spare and chuck it in a lathe?
Several adjustable needles are available for the stock BST40 carb. Procycle and Dynojet sell adjustable needles for a cut airbox. I don't know what brand of needle Procycle sells in their carb kits. They might vary, based on availability. You'd have to ask Jeff.

If you'd like to leave your airbox intact, Factory Pro or KTM needles offer adjustability with a stock-similar taper, for use with an unmodified airbox. Just remove the snorkel, which is replaceable. The KTM needles are available through www.Sudco.com, while Procycle and other vendors sell the Factory Pro needle.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:27 AM   #67952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Several adjustable needles are available for the stock BST40 carb. Procycle and Dynojet sell adjustable needles for a cut airbox. I don't know what brand of needle Procycle sells in their carb kits. They might vary, based on availability. You'd have to ask Jeff.

If you'd like to leave your airbox intact, Factory Pro or KTM needles offer adjustability with a stock-similar taper, for use with an unmodified airbox. Just remove the snorkel, which is replaceable. The KTM needles are available through www.Sudco.com, while Procycle and other vendors sell the Factory Pro needle.

Thanks! Yea I'm not messing with airbox mods just yet. I was just looking for an easy replacement with a couple of easily adjustable notches ...
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:48 PM   #67953
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi everyone,

As I said, the bike runs excellent, at least compared to how it was running before... WHEN it runs. For 2 times in a row now, when I start the cold bike it just runs for a minute then abruptly stalls. Let me explain...cold engine. Choke on. Start the bike with no issue... it idles for a minute then stalls abruptly/without any warning (the engine speed doesn't decrease before stalling). After that, the bike is VERY difficult to start again... almost drained my battery. Finally, I manage to start it only after leaving it for one minute or so (ignition off). Then it starts easily and works as expected (this time, little to no choke required).

If I try to re-start the bike immediately after it stalled, I have little to no success, and I'm totally unable to rev it from the throttle.. it dies immediately. It seems to me it only wants to start again after sitting untouched for a minute or so.

Any ideas are more than welcome...
Is the vacuum operated petcock operating correctly? Check the vacuum line to the petcock.

Or start it with the petcock in prime position and see if it runs.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:01 PM   #67954
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[QUOTE=BadDogMax;19287345]I just got back from Mammoth doing just that. Awesome time!



Great video!

It looks like I rode on some of the very same roads - thru the tunnel under 395 for sure.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:05 PM   #67955
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Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Thanks! Yea I'm not messing with airbox mods just yet. I was just looking for an easy replacement with a couple of easily adjustable notches ...
Just get an NZ, Oz or even maybe Canadian needle.
The part number is in the manual.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:54 PM   #67956
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There's a 32 page study over on TT about the DR650 needles.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/396...le-comparison/

I just skimmed through the first 17 pages to find this for you!

"It's a 6G5 from a 98 KTM LC4. KTM P/N 584310346G5"
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:24 PM   #67957
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Hiya, just hooked up two bags I bought as panniers on the DR.





As you can see I have them rather forward and didn't bother with any brackets to hold it off the exhaust, instead relying on the plastic side cover to save the right bag from catching fire.
What do you guys think, safe or stupid?

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Old 08-05-2012, 03:20 PM   #67958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There's a 32 page study over on TT about the DR650 needles.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/396...le-comparison/

I just skimmed through the first 17 pages to find this for you!

"It's a 6G5 from a 98 KTM LC4. KTM P/N 584310346G5"

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Old 08-05-2012, 07:33 PM   #67959
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Originally Posted by freestate View Post
Hiya, just hooked up two bags I bought as panniers on the DR.

As you can see I have them rather forward and didn't bother with any brackets to hold it off the exhaust, instead relying on the plastic side cover to save the right bag from catching fire.
What do you guys think, safe or stupid?
This may be fine empty. Once you start loading them, the weight could press the sidecover against the exhaust and melt it.

If you don't want to spend for sideracks, you could do what I did with my stock muffler. I built a standoff/heatshield that bolts to the muffler OVER the stock heatshield. This created a 2-layer heatshield under my right saddlebag. I used the stock DR muffler that has standoffs welded to it though, so you would have to devise some way of mounting the heatshield. I'm planning on tackwelding stainless hex standoffs to my GSX-R muffler when I install it. I'll use the OEM heatshield as a bolt-through jig to line them all up in proper position.

I built the standoff out of a piece of 1/8" x 2" and a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from ACE Hardware. I bent the 2" piece lengthwise in 2 places, to add rigidity along it's length. The bends can be done with a hammer and vise, but I used a sheetmetal brake. This wide and long piece serves as a horizontal that reaches all the way forward to underneath the sideplastic. The 3/4" piece is bent around the muffler, to mount vertically to both the new 2" piece and a threaded hole on the subframe. The 2" piece has holes drilled in it to mount to the OEM standoffs, then the vertical piece mounts to a hole drilled between them in the 2" piece.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:17 PM   #67960
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Needle info

Thanks guys but looking at the different needle profiles if little disappointing. If the stock one responds well to lifting it a washer's worth, then the KTM's bottom position looks like the only option to raise the needle position. It's hard to think that just opening the airbox allows the Dynojet needle to properly work. I'm thinking one more lower groove on the KTM would work well. But I'm just guessing here.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:16 PM   #67961
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freestate - here's a standoff GL has. http://www.giantloopmoto.com/collect...gs-heat-shield Fab something like this as described by Kommando or order up. Unless my eyes are playing tricks, your front tire has some pretty good cupping going. Was the thing balanced? My eyes are going so I could be completely off....

Is that the trash can DIY windshield? Looks good. How's it holding up?
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:37 PM   #67962
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What a great site

First and foremost thank you to all who contribute to this and the many other threads related to the DR650.

First a little background I purchased my 2000 DR650 in February the previous owner told me the carb had flooded and he had had it gone through by an area Suzuki shop. They decided the issue was the petcock and replaced the stock vacuum petcock with a Pingle from Procycle. The bike ran good but would occasionally die when stopping at an intersection and fouled the plugs once since I bought it.

Last week I had to travel approximately 100 miles for some work related training and I decided to take the DR. I got about 5 miles from my destination and the bike died going down the highway at 70 mph. I coasted to the shoulder and began assessing the bike. I removed the plugs to find both fouled with black soot so I replaced the plugs but the bike still would not run. Finally removed the air filter and the bike would run so long as I kept the throttle cracked. I continued to my destination and after the days training session was over took the carb off.

When I disassembled the carb the pilot jet fell out. I thought great I found the problem. The top of the jet was buggered up but I was able to reinstall after cleaning the carb. I also removed the plugs and cleaned them up. The bike ran good enough to get me home where I set out to find and fix the problem.

I began by installing a new pilot jet and cleaning the carb. I thought wile I was at it I would install a 150 main jet, shim the needle, drill the slide, and clip the spring. I adjusted the fule screw out to two turns installed new plugs and put everything back together. I was pumped. I removed the snorkel and anxiously hit the starter. The bike fired but would not idle. I tried adjusting the fuel screw in and out to no avail.

I pulled the carb again and double checked my work and everything looked perfect. Reinstalled and the bike still would not run. It would not idle and was popping like crazy. So I came back here and read everything I could find on the BST40 which is a lot. I decided to pull the carb again and do a Pine Sol soak. As I removed the fuel screw I noticed that the O ring did not come out. Looked down into the carb and saw it sitting in there sideways. Got it out and soaked all the parts in Pine Sol for about 3 hours. I then removed all the pieces and rinsed with water. Let it air dry for a couple hours and began blowing compressed air through all the passages. Everything was clear so I reassembled and installed new plugs as they were once again fouled. Fired it up and it ran. The idle was good so I secured the tank put the seat and side covers back on and hit the road. Wow the free mods made a big difference in throttle response. I was having a blast until I realized it was after 11 and all the lights in my neighborhood were out.

Thanks again for all who contribute to this site.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:04 PM   #67963
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Originally Posted by TN Sporty View Post
As I removed the fuel screw I noticed that the O ring did not come out. Looked down into the carb and saw it sitting in there sideways. Got it out and soaked all the parts in Pine Sol for about 3 hours. I then removed all the pieces and rinsed with water. Let it air dry for a couple hours and began blowing compressed air through all the passages. Everything was clear so I reassembled and installed new plugs as they were once again fouled. Fired it up and it ran. The idle was good so I secured the tank put the seat and side covers back on and hit the road. Wow the free mods made a big difference in throttle response. I was having a blast until I realized it was after 11 and all the lights in my neighborhood were out.

Thanks again for all who contribute to this site.
Glad you got it sorted out. It sounds like either the float valve isn't seating and/or the float valve O ring might be leaking, causing the bike to flood. The mixture screw should have a spring, a washer and the O ring on it. On a 13 year old carb I think I would have replaced all the rubber parts inside and done a complete rebuild/cleaning.

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Old 08-05-2012, 10:14 PM   #67964
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Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Glad you got it sorted out. It sounds like either the float valve isn't seating and/or the float valve O ring might be leaking, causing the bike to flood. The mixture screw should have a spring, a washer and the O ring on it. On a 13 year old carb I think I would have replaced all the rubber parts inside and done a complete rebuild/cleaning.

Tech23
Thanks for the advice. The fuel screw did not have a washer on it but I plan on installing an extended screw in the very near future and it should come with a new spring washer and O ring right? I will also order the rebuild kit and get it properly sorted.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:37 PM   #67965
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Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Thanks guys but looking at the different needle profiles if little disappointing. If the stock one responds well to lifting it a washer's worth, then the KTM's bottom position looks like the only option to raise the needle position. It's hard to think that just opening the airbox allows the Dynojet needle to properly work. I'm thinking one more lower groove on the KTM would work well. But I'm just guessing here.
Keep in mind the KTM needle has a slightly different profile (although it may not look like much) and will flow a little more fuel when set at the same height as the stock needle.
I am not sure about the NZ or OZ needles that Nordie spoke of --- they may be the "exact" profile as the stock US one.

Also the KTM needle was designed to be used with the white plastic washer AND an additional metal shim under that. I think suzuki omitted the shim because it doesn't vibrate as much as a KTM, so wear on the white plastic washer is not such an issue. So if the shim is added the clip would probably end up in about the middle position of the needle when set at approximately the same height as stock (but, as previously stated, flow a little more fuel then stock). Hope that makes sense

As for the airbox opening, once you go much past pulling the snorkel you will probably need a radical needle profile like the dynojet needle, as well as a bigger main jet. It is amazing how much more air will be pulled in once you start enlarging the opening. some have had good results with the KTM needle and opened airbox, but most opt for something like the dynojet needle once the airbox has been cut away on top.

It's all kind of a guessing game and trial and error. Some don't mind the fiddling and some do. Keep us posted!
Good luck

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