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Old 08-06-2012, 02:21 PM   #67996
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
That's only 140C.
My TT350 runs at that all day in the hills without a cooler at all.
It peaks at about 155-160C with heavy slow usage.
Are you measuring oil or head temp? Most if the sources I checked seem to say that oil breakdown begins around 260F. I would prefer to compare to some scientific data as opposed to "mine runs fine (so far)"
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:29 PM   #67997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post

Hit the kill switch and wait a few minutes. Check your temps then. The TT can hit 175C once the oil has stopped circulating.
Yes, very aware that liquid cooled engine temps climb before they fall after you turn them off. Many vehicles have radiator fans that remain on after the engine is off. I leave the ignition on with my sport bikes until the fan turns off.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:43 PM   #67998
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Some observations:
- the bike ran for at most 7 minutes until I saw the glowing exhaust header pipe. I don't know if this is normal or not..some people say it is, some that it isn't. For sure, I did not rev the engine hard... it was mostly idling during this time (admittedly, the idle speed might have been a little bit high, but definitely under 2000rpm)
- the spark plugs are black, as they always were... making me think I have a rich mixture
- the more I open the pilot screw, the more it takes for the engine to return to idle speed after revving. From this point of view, I think that the "normal" pilot screw setting must definitely be under 1.5 turns open.

Now I don't know what to think... maybe there are other issues, perhaps not related to the carburetor? I understand that exhaust gas temperature can be affected by bad ignition timing and bad valve timing. As a side note, I adjusted the valve clearances just a few days before.
It's possible that there are other issues, but I'm guessing that the clip position on your needle is a bit rich for your altitude and/or air intake, if your float is adjusted well. If it's bogging out as you gas it from idle, that usually indicates an overly-rich needle. Move the clip up one position and adjust the idle-mix screw again. My screw seems good around 1.25 turns out at sea-level.
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:15 PM   #67999
MeterPig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
I can see through the heat exchanger so it is not plugged up.

I have a trailtech Vapor with the temperature pickup on the oil line banjo bolt that goes into the head (as opposed to the sparkplug like they recommend - must specify when ordering to get the correct size).

I cannot speak with any authority as to the temp limits. But if water cooled engines tend to get pissy at 240, it stands to some reason that an engine shouldn't run too much hotter than that. At some point the viscosity of the oil will start to break down. I had the oil temps up to 310 on a ride up Donner. That was before I changed my gearing (lots of clutch slipping) and I did an oil change right away after.

found lots of interesting info compiled on oil here:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
I remember that article from some time ago...thinking 2005 or so. That article convinced me to switch over to Rotella T. Speaking of Rotella today, it costs about $21 from Walmart if you can find it. In fact, I sort have been going round and roun with Walmart here in Parker on just that issue. Anyway, the article says that Rotella can be found for $7 so it's a bit on the old side yet in the interwebz the article is cited (and I agree) as an authority on oil. And more than likely, the main reason that so many motorcyclists switch over to it.

To you point, I would say that if you get up to 360 and be ok. Watercooled engines in my opinion start to fail because car coolant (what most of us run) with low pressure systems (typical motorcycle) can't handle higher temps. That's why I like oil over water cooled for overall bulletproofness (my word).

Still, I think you concern is warrented and a fan is a good idea. The DR was never really designed for sustained hard travel (climbing rocks..etc). I say go for it and post up your results.

I would like to monitor oil temp as well, is the vapor the easiest option?
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:41 PM   #68000
TinkerinWstuff
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Vapor is easiest that I'm aware of.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:33 PM   #68001
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I found an analog on Ebay out of the UK. Very, um, Harley looking.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #68002
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Pingel Petcock Install Questions

I bought my 2006 DR back in May with 3500 miles on the clock. The bike has the stock steel gastank. When I bought the bike, the stock Suzuki petcock was leaking. If you turned the petcock to the run position the petcock would leak. It would not leak in the prime position. The PO had fixed this problem by installing a second plastic petcock downstream of the original and leaving the lever on prime.
When I started working on the bike, I wanted to get back to 1 petcock. so I ordered and installed a Pingel petcock on the steel tank. All was well for a while but recently the Pingel bagan to leak. By leak I mean that gas is running down the outside surface of the petcock and leaving a few drops on the garage floor. Over the weekend I pulled off the petcock, retaped the threads (4 turns of teflon tape) and reinstalled it. I was surprised to find very little of the original teflon tape on the threads. By this afternoon my petrol puddle had reappeared on the garage floor. I must be doing something wrong somewhere in the process. I'd appreciate any suggertions. Thanks!

wncstrada screwed with this post 08-06-2012 at 05:52 PM
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:36 PM   #68003
TinkerinWstuff
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vapor has user configurable idiot lights. yellow for warning and red for danger. I set them where I wanted and didn't have to watch the LCD readout. Plus the other data like mileage and clock.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:45 PM   #68004
ChromeSux
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wncstrada View Post
I bought my 2006 DR back in May with 3500 miles on the clock. The bike has the stock steel gastank. When I bought the bike, the stock Suzuki petcock was leaking. If you turned the petcock to the run position the petcock would leak. It would not leak in the prime position. The PO had fixed this problem by installing a second plastic petcock downstream of the original and leaving the lever on prime.
When I started working on the bike, I wanted to get back to 1 petcock. so I ordered and installed a Pingel petcock on the steel tank. All was well for a while but recently the Pingel bagan to leak. By leak I mean that gas is running down the outside surface of the petcock and leaving a few drops on the garage floor. Over the weekend I pulled off the petcock, retaped the threads (4 turns of teflon tape) and reinstalled it. I was surprised to find very little of the original teflon tape on the threads. By this afternoon my petrol puddle had reappeared on the garage floor. I must be doing something wrong somewhere in the process. I'd appreciate any suggertions. Thanks!
The Pingle has a rubber gasket with screws you should not need teflon tape, it does not do to good around fuel, did you tighten the screws down good., also check the sealing surface, make sure the fuel leaking has not eat away at the paint, making the sealing surface uneven, i have seen that before.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:49 PM   #68005
nat_han
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
nat_han
6 1/2 inches from the top of the fork tube, you must slide the upper tube all the way down into the lower, what i did was get the fluid level real close then put the Intiminators in and measure again.
You will need to make sure you have all the air out before putting the Intiminators in, gently slide the upper up and down a few times to burp any air out, measure and then put the Intiminators in, measure again, if you have to add fluid with them in you will need to be patient and let the fluid settle in.

Also you need to cut those spacers down about 1/2 inch, the Intiminators are just a tad bit over 1/2 inch thick, i used a PVC fitting from the hardware store and cut some off, i found a fitting that was the same outer dia. as the stock spacer, using the stock spacers you are adding 1/2 inch of preload.
Thanks for the reply..

I'll have to go figure that out by myself then. =)
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:54 PM   #68006
MeterPig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
vapor has user configurable idiot lights. yellow for warning and red for danger. I set them where I wanted and didn't have to watch the LCD readout. Plus the other data like mileage and clock.
Well, to beat a dead horse, I kind of wonder about the actual pickup point. Here are my twenty questions: Is it on the hot side or the cool side of the oil? Is it possible the connection point is acting as a heat sink and therefore hotter than the oil?

I would be interested to see an actual dip gauge type next to the vapor. This whole issue has sort of crossed my mind and a buddy told me "don't put an oil gauge on those things...it will drive you crazy as they get really, really hot.

Here is what I found.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:57 PM   #68007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
The Pingle has a rubber gasket with screws you should not need teflon tape, it does not do to good around fuel, did you tighten the screws down good., also check the sealing surface, make sure the fuel leaking has not eat away at the paint, making the sealing surface uneven, i have seen that before.
The Pingle has a threaded body which screws into the base which bolts to the tank bottom. I assume that's where the OP is seeing the Teflon disappearing from.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:18 PM   #68008
wncstrada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
The Pingle has a threaded body which screws into the base which bolts to the tank bottom. I assume that's where the OP is seeing the Teflon disappearing from.
Yes. Installation instructions with the Pingle say to wrap teflon tape around the threaded body before screwing the body to the base. They say to not use pipe dope.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:25 PM   #68009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wncstrada View Post
Yes. Installation instructions with the Pingle say to wrap teflon tape around the threaded body before screwing the body to the base. They say to not use pipe dope.
Maybe you just didn't tighten it down enough? The Pingles on both our bikes haven't ever leaked a bit, but I really screwed them down tight into the bases.
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:03 AM   #68010
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
Are you measuring oil or head temp? Most if the sources I checked seem to say that oil breakdown begins around 260F. I would prefer to compare to some scientific data as opposed to "mine runs fine (so far)"
Trailtech Vapor, oil banjo at top rear of head, the same position as on the DR.

I've sent off an enquiry to the local oil importer asking some questions.
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