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Old 08-06-2012, 11:35 AM   #67996
nat_han
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeSux View Post
[QUOTE nat_han My Dr650 with loads of add ons and farkled for my liking.

Just 1 question to ask regarding the front suspension 'problem' i might be facing...
History: Installed Ricor Intiminators, Progressive Springs, 5wt Maxima Fork Oil, Original Suzuki Spacers.
I'm 57kilos/ 130lbs, always ride with those 3 alu boxes.
Changed tires to the Tourance at 4000kms. Did not do Balancing after that.

Perceived Problem: At slower speed of between 30-50 km/h, on road/tarmac conditions, the handlebar jerks up and down over every single unevenness I ride across. There's no smoothness. I want to feel less of such vibs on the handlebar- the throbbing feeling..

2nd Problem- At speed of 120km/h(74.5 mph) and above, on open highway, the front catches wind easily causing the front tire/rim to wobble left and right. If I do not slow down, a 'tankslap' would likely happen. I would like to ride constanlyt at 130 to 135km/h without feeling that instability at the front.

Would reducing the original spacers' thickness help in solving the first problem I have? I got a feeling that there's too much "preload"...
Should I try Balancing of both front and rear rims? I did not do that after I changed tires couple months back.

For the 2nd problem, I've a safari tank on the bike and the RalleMoto Damper wouldn't fit without some major shifting and such... So, I'm thinking that maybe a Fork Brace together with lowering the triple clamps on the fork tubes will settle it for me...

Comments and advice?

Thank you!
I just went thru this same thing yesterday, i know someone is going to say what i tell you is WRONG but it worked for me, take the forks off and look at your fork fluid level, the one i did yesterday was not full enough and did exactly like your bike.

A few days ago we did the install, and never could get the front forks to ride smooth, it was just as you described, we checked the fluid level again and it was low, we added fluid, set to the correct level for the second time, its real smooth now.

Edit. you may try to Ricor and ask their opinion, its damn near impossible to get them on the phone though.[/QUOTE]

Hi "ChromeSux",

Just wanted to check with you if you still remember the actual amount of fork oil you had used in each of the DR650's front forks...
Standard factory recommends 565ml of fork oil...Did you use this amount?

My front end is too stiff. I got a gut feeling that I'm not utilizing the Intiminators(what they were meant for) at all- Over bumps and uneven road surfaces, the fork tubes should move to absorb (them) instead of transferring the impact to the handlebar and to the rider)...

Will adding more fork oil(as you had previously suggested) help? If the forks are too stiff, oil level might have to be reduced to lower the compression ratio right?

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:53 AM   #67997
ChromeSux
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nat_han
6 1/2 inches from the top of the fork tube, you must slide the upper tube all the way down into the lower, what i did was get the fluid level real close then put the Intiminators in and measure again.
You will need to make sure you have all the air out before putting the Intiminators in, gently slide the upper up and down a few times to burp any air out, measure and then put the Intiminators in, measure again, if you have to add fluid with them in you will need to be patient and let the fluid settle in.

Also you need to cut those spacers down about 1/2 inch, the Intiminators are just a tad bit over 1/2 inch thick, i used a PVC fitting from the hardware store and cut some off, i found a fitting that was the same outer dia. as the stock spacer, using the stock spacers you are adding 1/2 inch of preload.

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Old 08-06-2012, 01:03 PM   #67998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
yep, was the last time i touched my carb. swapping the needle, no more bog, no more hunting, just nice solid power. as it should be. up your main & pilot and you'll be even happier...
Hi vintagespeed. Glad it is working so good for you still, I remember you were very pleased with the results.

Just to clarify my earlier post (when I re-read it seemed a little confusing -- so I went back and edited it some).
I have not yet tried the KTM needle -- it is still sitting in my parts box.

I am currently running on my custom needle, with about a half open airbox and 142.5 mikuni main. I fully intend to swap out my custom needle for the KTM one, as I expect the custom one will show wear pretty quick --- will see. Like I said it runs really well right now.

My other mods include (to the best of my memory):
Eliminated the shelf issue where the plastic washer sits (installed a plastic D shaped washer so the needle sits straight).
Added another lift hole in the slide (same size as original).
Cut about 1.5 coils off the spring.
Added one shim/washer below stock white plastic (I think it was about .04")
K&N filter
That's all I can remember.
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:28 PM   #67999
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
freestate - since you asked, I went looking. The answers for tire cupping/scalloping are many. Tire balance, air pressure, proper suspension, hard braking....... I've always read "balance" is important. It seems a lot of factors come into play. I know my T-63 front cupped worse than my K270 and when cornering...it skipped sideways sometimes after it was cupped.

So as not to perpetuate any internet "fact"......I dunno. YMMV, etc.
Brand also comes into play. I stopped using Bridgestone, and Dunlop street tires because they cup so quickly compared to Michelin and Pirelli.
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:28 PM   #68000
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
It doesn't sound to serious to me. Sometimes getting the idle dialed in can get a little tricky\frustrating. Sounds to me like it is stalling from being a little too rich still at idle (leaving the engine a little flooded which is why it is hard to start afterwards).

Might try taking it off choke a little sooner or reducing the choke a little as it warms up.
Also may want to try turning the pilot screw in a little more (1.25 turns) and turning the idle up a tad at the idle speed screw.

A little tweaking of the adjustments will fix it. Be patient.
Good luck!
Today I played with the bike a little bit more. To begin, I set the petcock to the prime position. The vacuum line seemed OK anyway. I started the bike and tried to reduce the choke level as soon as possible, to avoid flooding it. As a result the bike did not stall after a minute as it did before, but instead it died the moment I tried to rev it with the throttle (the choke was already off, the bike relatively warmed after more than a minute).
After re-starting it, revving it was very difficult...it just tends to die. Seems like this problem just comes and goes, because other times I have the best throttle response. I started playing with the settings (pilot screw and throttle stop screw) while the bike was running... until I noticed that the exhaust header was glowing red! OK, it was getting dark otherwise I wouldn't have been able to see this. The moment I saw this I just stopped the bike, grabbed my tools and went home. Some observations:
- the bike ran for at most 7 minutes until I saw the glowing exhaust header pipe. I don't know if this is normal or not..some people say it is, some that it isn't. For sure, I did not rev the engine hard... it was mostly idling during this time (admittedly, the idle speed might have been a little bit high, but definitely under 2000rpm)
- the spark plugs are black, as they always were... making me think I have a rich mixture
- the more I open the pilot screw, the more it takes for the engine to return to idle speed after revving. From this point of view, I think that the "normal" pilot screw setting must definitely be under 1.5 turns open.

Now I don't know what to think... maybe there are other issues, perhaps not related to the carburetor? I understand that exhaust gas temperature can be affected by bad ignition timing and bad valve timing. As a side note, I adjusted the valve clearances just a few days before.
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:45 PM   #68001
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear Chow View Post

After the first 50 miles on the stock seat I thought I had made a mistake. But, luck would have it the dealership had just gotten a used lightly farkled DR with only 33 miles on it, so I traded my stock seat +50$ for the used one. It's a Renazco Racing seat, and boy did it make a world of difference.
Talk about being in the right place at the right time. Rennazzco seat for $50
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:13 PM   #68002
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
Has anyone seen a thread somewhere on the interwebz of an oil cooler fan mod? I'm not interested in cheap ass PC fans. I plan to use a radiator fan off some other model of motorcycle. I did a lot of wicked single track this weekend but the slow going and steep climbs had my oil temps climbing to 280F and would have gone higher if I didn't stop periodically to cool.
That's only 140C.
My TT350 runs at that all day in the hills without a cooler at all.
It peaks at about 155-160C with heavy slow usage.

Hit the kill switch and wait a few minutes. Check your temps then. The TT can hit 175C once the oil has stopped circulating.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:21 PM   #68003
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
That's only 140C.
My TT350 runs at that all day in the hills without a cooler at all.
It peaks at about 155-160C with heavy slow usage.
Are you measuring oil or head temp? Most if the sources I checked seem to say that oil breakdown begins around 260F. I would prefer to compare to some scientific data as opposed to "mine runs fine (so far)"
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:29 PM   #68004
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post

Hit the kill switch and wait a few minutes. Check your temps then. The TT can hit 175C once the oil has stopped circulating.
Yes, very aware that liquid cooled engine temps climb before they fall after you turn them off. Many vehicles have radiator fans that remain on after the engine is off. I leave the ignition on with my sport bikes until the fan turns off.
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:43 PM   #68005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Some observations:
- the bike ran for at most 7 minutes until I saw the glowing exhaust header pipe. I don't know if this is normal or not..some people say it is, some that it isn't. For sure, I did not rev the engine hard... it was mostly idling during this time (admittedly, the idle speed might have been a little bit high, but definitely under 2000rpm)
- the spark plugs are black, as they always were... making me think I have a rich mixture
- the more I open the pilot screw, the more it takes for the engine to return to idle speed after revving. From this point of view, I think that the "normal" pilot screw setting must definitely be under 1.5 turns open.

Now I don't know what to think... maybe there are other issues, perhaps not related to the carburetor? I understand that exhaust gas temperature can be affected by bad ignition timing and bad valve timing. As a side note, I adjusted the valve clearances just a few days before.
It's possible that there are other issues, but I'm guessing that the clip position on your needle is a bit rich for your altitude and/or air intake, if your float is adjusted well. If it's bogging out as you gas it from idle, that usually indicates an overly-rich needle. Move the clip up one position and adjust the idle-mix screw again. My screw seems good around 1.25 turns out at sea-level.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:15 PM   #68006
MeterPig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
I can see through the heat exchanger so it is not plugged up.

I have a trailtech Vapor with the temperature pickup on the oil line banjo bolt that goes into the head (as opposed to the sparkplug like they recommend - must specify when ordering to get the correct size).

I cannot speak with any authority as to the temp limits. But if water cooled engines tend to get pissy at 240, it stands to some reason that an engine shouldn't run too much hotter than that. At some point the viscosity of the oil will start to break down. I had the oil temps up to 310 on a ride up Donner. That was before I changed my gearing (lots of clutch slipping) and I did an oil change right away after.

found lots of interesting info compiled on oil here:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
I remember that article from some time ago...thinking 2005 or so. That article convinced me to switch over to Rotella T. Speaking of Rotella today, it costs about $21 from Walmart if you can find it. In fact, I sort have been going round and roun with Walmart here in Parker on just that issue. Anyway, the article says that Rotella can be found for $7 so it's a bit on the old side yet in the interwebz the article is cited (and I agree) as an authority on oil. And more than likely, the main reason that so many motorcyclists switch over to it.

To you point, I would say that if you get up to 360 and be ok. Watercooled engines in my opinion start to fail because car coolant (what most of us run) with low pressure systems (typical motorcycle) can't handle higher temps. That's why I like oil over water cooled for overall bulletproofness (my word).

Still, I think you concern is warrented and a fan is a good idea. The DR was never really designed for sustained hard travel (climbing rocks..etc). I say go for it and post up your results.

I would like to monitor oil temp as well, is the vapor the easiest option?
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:41 PM   #68007
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Vapor is easiest that I'm aware of.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:33 PM   #68008
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I found an analog on Ebay out of the UK. Very, um, Harley looking.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:35 PM   #68009
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Pingel Petcock Install Questions

I bought my 2006 DR back in May with 3500 miles on the clock. The bike has the stock steel gastank. When I bought the bike, the stock Suzuki petcock was leaking. If you turned the petcock to the run position the petcock would leak. It would not leak in the prime position. The PO had fixed this problem by installing a second plastic petcock downstream of the original and leaving the lever on prime.
When I started working on the bike, I wanted to get back to 1 petcock. so I ordered and installed a Pingel petcock on the steel tank. All was well for a while but recently the Pingel bagan to leak. By leak I mean that gas is running down the outside surface of the petcock and leaving a few drops on the garage floor. Over the weekend I pulled off the petcock, retaped the threads (4 turns of teflon tape) and reinstalled it. I was surprised to find very little of the original teflon tape on the threads. By this afternoon my petrol puddle had reappeared on the garage floor. I must be doing something wrong somewhere in the process. I'd appreciate any suggertions. Thanks!

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Old 08-06-2012, 06:36 PM   #68010
TinkerinWstuff
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vapor has user configurable idiot lights. yellow for warning and red for danger. I set them where I wanted and didn't have to watch the LCD readout. Plus the other data like mileage and clock.
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