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Old 08-06-2012, 01:36 AM   #67996
rowie
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Proserpine, QLD
Oddometer: 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
The keyway between the crank and gear was taking a beating. Looks like it will be alright but I will forever be nervous about the condition of the crank. I can't see how the seal could have been destroyed but if it had, only bad things could come from it. I did not have a magnetic oil plug in the engine but there was a lot of metal in the clutch/engine cover. It does have a magnetic drain plug now. I have not disassembled a DR engine yet but I did question if the nut being loose allowed the crank to float side to side. Any ideas on that?
The main bearings hold the crank in place and there should be none to very little side play. When I put my cases back together, the crank would not turn freely, so I did what the manual suggested (bash it both sides with a rubber hammer) which helped seat the bearings correctly and made the crank easy to turn.

I couldn't find a left hand thread torque wrench to tension the primary drive nut, so I did it up FT (fecking tight) OTOH, it should not work loose due to it tightening in the opposite direction that the crank spins
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:02 AM   #67997
Bob808
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What about the nut that is behind the magneto? Does that need to be tightened to 80NM or can I just use whatever tools I can to tighten it as much as I can? I have a torque wrench but don't have the extension for that type. It's the only thing holding me back to assemble the rest of the engine
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:19 AM   #67998
lpnb
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DR650 specific 36-1 Trigger wheels for EFI conversion.

Hi Guys, I designed and made some extra trigger wheels for efi conversion, they press on to the flywheel. have a look at the OZ flea market if you are interested in one of them.

EDIT: ***as soon as it gets approved****

cheers,
Lach.

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Old 08-06-2012, 04:36 AM   #67999
freestate
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Location: Stockholm, Capitol of Scandinavia
Oddometer: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
This may be fine empty. Once you start loading them, the weight could press the sidecover against the exhaust and melt it.

If you don't want to spend for sideracks, you could do what I did with my stock muffler. I built a standoff/heatshield that bolts to the muffler OVER the stock heatshield. This created a 2-layer heatshield under my right saddlebag. I used the stock DR muffler that has standoffs welded to it though, so you would have to devise some way of mounting the heatshield. I'm planning on tackwelding stainless hex standoffs to my GSX-R muffler when I install it. I'll use the OEM heatshield as a bolt-through jig to line them all up in proper position.

I built the standoff out of a piece of 1/8" x 2" and a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from ACE Hardware. I bent the 2" piece lengthwise in 2 places, to add rigidity along it's length. The bends can be done with a hammer and vise, but I used a sheetmetal brake. This wide and long piece serves as a horizontal that reaches all the way forward to underneath the sideplastic. The 3/4" piece is bent around the muffler, to mount vertically to both the new 2" piece and a threaded hole on the subframe. The 2" piece has holes drilled in it to mount to the OEM standoffs, then the vertical piece mounts to a hole drilled between them in the 2" piece.
Yeah think I'll try to sort something. I'm thinking a single hose clamp might do the trick. There is really one spot that runs the risk of contact. So it might work.
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:51 AM   #68000
freestate
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Location: Stockholm, Capitol of Scandinavia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
freestate - here's a standoff GL has. http://www.giantloopmoto.com/collect...gs-heat-shield Fab something like this as described by Kommando or order up. Unless my eyes are playing tricks, your front tire has some pretty good cupping going. Was the thing balanced? My eyes are going so I could be completely off....

Is that the trash can DIY windshield? Looks good. How's it holding up?
Thanks for the link!

Yeah the cupping is bad, assuming you mean the wear pattern of the knobbles. Was planning on just switching the roll directon of the tire but have a fresh set of K60 scouts in the garage I'm gonna put on instead. The tire isn't balanced though, think that's the cause? Thought it was the constant heavy braking on Tarmac that caused it.

The trash can windshield works perfectly. I saw the thread some time ago but when I decided to make it I had forgotten on which forum I'd seen it. So made one from memory and of course soon as I finished it I found the thread.
It's holding up fine but Ill be doing another in slightly thinner plastic soon, to get it really right.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:26 AM   #68001
Paddle007
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Eek

Rowie.....Thanks for the reply. My bike is at the shop where I work and the thrust play came to mind later. Out of curiosity I'll check the play before tightening the nut. That will either calm my fears or feed the fires.
As far as the lefthand threaded nut coming loose? Occasionally I see a fan automotive fan clutch come loose. It happens when the engine killed. The compression kick of the engine will spin an engine in a negative directness. FWIW I am not real gentle with my ride . I figure a wheelie a day keeps the doctor away
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowie View Post
The main bearings hold the crank in place and there should be none to very little side play. When I put my cases back together, the crank would not turn freely, so I did what the manual suggested (bash it both sides with a rubber hammer) which helped seat the bearings correctly and made the crank easy to turn.

I couldn't find a left hand thread torque wrench to tension the primary drive nut, so I did it up FT (fecking tight) OTOH, it should not work loose due to it tightening in the opposite direction that the crank spins
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:01 AM   #68002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
was thinking again about trying the KTM needle. read about that a few years ago and forgot about it when i was playing w/ the DJ needle.
I now have a oem 2 washer shimmed needle and it like how the bike runs but would love that slightly thinner taper of the KTM needle providing just that much more gas.

i was wondering why the KTM jet needle is slightly longer (a washers thickness)?
so you have from the bottom of the needle up
-KTM speced only metal shim
-thick white plastic washer
-needle position c-clip

did you also buy the KTM shim with the jet needle?
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/produ...jet-needle-6g5

i don't see the shim available separately or do people just use a standard washer like they'd use on the suzuki bst?
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...r-mkiuni-bst40

since the DR does not have vib issues like the KTM can you go w/o a KTM designed shim(washer) and just drop the clip on the jet needle 1 notch thus raising the needle that amount the KTM shim would have? that would be 2nd notch from the bottom with the ability to raise it 1 more.

I'm guess that if i like my fueling with 2 washers added i just match up that same length and resting point on the KTM needle and benefit from a slightly thinner tapper on the needle (thus more fuel). mxrob seemed to like the KTM needle over the Suzuki one.

what about the needle jet??? is that KTM part different from the Suzuki one and need to be replaced at the same time?
I bought a KTM needle, clip, plastic spacer, and shim (washer) from a KTM specific supplier (I think it was the KTM HUT or something).

My original plan was to replace my custom tapered one (I ground myself) with the KTM needle and experiment with opening the air box more then the half open I had it at with my custom needle.
However it continues to run so darn good on my original "custom" needle and carb mods (pure luck I am sure), that I have not got around to trying the KTM needle yet --- Its been a year now I really should open it up and exam things.

I am sure you could run the KTM needle without its shim (on the DR) or just about any combination you wanted within reason (in my opinion). I think its all about getting the optimum height and profile that works best for your setup.

If I recall correctly the KTM needle jet meters different and is not plated like the Suzuki one. I think the suzuki needle and needle jet have a "harder" finish in general (would have to verify). Which is kind of a contradiction --- I would think KTM would want those parts more resistant to wear also. But who knows why -- they had a whole other animal in mind for the carb.


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Old 08-06-2012, 06:51 AM   #68003
TinkerinWstuff
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Has anyone seen a thread somewhere on the interwebz of an oil cooler fan mod? I'm not interested in cheap ass PC fans. I plan to use a radiator fan off some other model of motorcycle. I did a lot of wicked single track this weekend but the slow going and steep climbs had my oil temps climbing to 280F and would have gone higher if I didn't stop periodically to cool.

Is not outside the realm of possibility that there is some other problem. I've recently done a lot of changes and maintenance including removing the right side cover to work on the neutral sending unit screws. Temps were mild this weekend and even flying on the open road it seemed like I was running higher than it used to. Used to run around 185 (if my memory is any good) and I was holding 205 on the open road 60mph 14/45 gears.

I don't believe the carb is lean. It was running well and would tend to load up on fuel occasionally.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:02 AM   #68004
MeterPig
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When washing the bike over the weekend, I sprayed out the cooler reverse of the air flow.

Also, how do you monitor oil temp and what is the theoretical limit and why?
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:28 AM   #68005
jeknow
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Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 22
Adj. windscreen

HI Eakins thanks for the link for the robo brkts. I just put a Turbo City sheild on mine a week ago I really like it when you're going down the hwy. at speed. I placed a order for the robo brkts. for it, being able to adjust the sheild would be a great bonus.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:30 AM   #68006
TinkerinWstuff
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Location: Colorado Northern Front Range
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
When washing the bike over the weekend, I sprayed out the cooler reverse of the air flow.

Also, how do you monitor oil temp and what is the theoretical limit and why?
I can see through the heat exchanger so it is not plugged up.

I have a trailtech Vapor with the temperature pickup on the oil line banjo bolt that goes into the head (as opposed to the sparkplug like they recommend - must specify when ordering to get the correct size).

I cannot speak with any authority as to the temp limits. But if water cooled engines tend to get pissy at 240, it stands to some reason that an engine shouldn't run too much hotter than that. At some point the viscosity of the oil will start to break down. I had the oil temps up to 310 on a ride up Donner. That was before I changed my gearing (lots of clutch slipping) and I did an oil change right away after.

found lots of interesting info compiled on oil here:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:47 AM   #68007
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Looks like KTM has a radiator fan kit for their two strokes that might be a (close) fit.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:32 AM   #68008
vintagespeed
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Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I bought a KTM needle....it runs so darn good now...
yep, was the last time i touched my carb. swapping the needle, no more bog, no more hunting, just nice solid power. as it should be. up your main & pilot and you'll be even happier...

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Old 08-06-2012, 09:34 AM   #68009
Bear Chow
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Location: Lower Ohio
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Talking Battle Ship Grey

I just traded in my crf230l for the battle ship grey DR. Honda was great for putting around town, but I'm way to fat for it. Only 130 miles on the new bike so I'm still getting used to the massive upgrade. Does the surging at low rpms go away after burn in, or do I need to do something? There seems to be so much information out there it's hard to filter through. I read the surging is not on every DR so I thought it might just need time to break in. A second question I have is, my right foot is very hot I have to stick it out and give it a breather to cool off, can I assume this is normal? The first tank of fuel I only got 102 miles out of, although the dealer said it came with a full tank, I think they left out a few liters.

After the first 50 miles on the stock seat I thought I had made a mistake. But, luck would have it the dealership had just gotten a used lightly farkled DR with only 33 miles on it, so I traded my stock seat +50$ for the used one. It's a Renazco Racing seat, and boy did it make a world of difference.
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #68010
TrophyHunter
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freestate - since you asked, I went looking. The answers for tire cupping/scalloping are many. Tire balance, air pressure, proper suspension, hard braking....... I've always read "balance" is important. It seems a lot of factors come into play. I know my T-63 front cupped worse than my K270 and when cornering...it skipped sideways sometimes after it was cupped.

So as not to perpetuate any internet "fact"......I dunno. YMMV, etc.
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