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Old 08-17-2012, 08:45 AM   #68341
procycle
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:49 AM   #68342
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Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
I'm sure you know more about it than I. All I know is they had a booklet with specs for each bike. A vibration tach that was held to the tank or some other metal area on the bike. Then the sound meter at some distance behind. Whatever booklet it was they had said my '99 DR was to be tested at something like 3400 or 3500 RPM.
Yep. Just pointing out for those that don't know - different tests and different conditions will give different dB results. Which means you have to take any manufacturer's noise level claims with a grain of salt.
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:08 AM   #68343
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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I don't think a taller gear ratio will help you go faster, and it will probably hurt your roll-on response (passing power). I run a 14/43 and my roll-on in fith was greatly improved over stock gearing. The busy engine can get a little annoying on the interstate, but it will fly right on by an indicated 95mph (and still be pulling) -- sorry haven't really had a need, or the guts on this bike, to try top end.
I doubt I could hit the rev limiter in 5th even with my gearing though.

Edit: It would be close though. According to the gearing commander site, I would be doing a true 98.9mph at 7200rpm with 14/43 gearing.
Ok so you're saying I actually need shorter gearing and that will give me to the top end quicker? (and in my case I will actually have more top end)
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:42 AM   #68344
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Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
Ok so you're saying I actually need shorter gearing and that will give me to the top end quicker? (and in my case I will actually have more top end)
I hesitated to even post, because keep in mind there is an awful lot of generalizing involved here.
For starters I don't even know if your carb is tuned properly and optimized for wot. If it isn't then a few more mph may still be available as is (gear wise).

However a lower gear ratio will usually improve acceleration.

And, generally speaking, if you are already maxed out on available hp to get to your top speed and aren't close to the redline/rev limiter, then it is unlikely (with the DR) that a taller gear will get you any more speed. Your engine speed will be reduced (at a given road speed), but it will still require more hp then you currently have to overcome the drag. That is where a gearing advantage (lower gearing) can sometimes help.

Sometimes (not always) if top gear is to tall to begin with then a lower ratio will actually allow the engine to rev a little more into its powerband and pick up a few extra mph (at the price of increased engine speed of course).

I like the 14/43 because it suits my riding and gets well into the powerband (upper rpm) at wot in 5th. I also ride mostly between 4,000' to 5,000' and up, so a gearing advantage is important to me -- to help make up for lost hp.
Some hate the faster spinning engine and are willing to compromise for a little less buzzy engine and run taller gearing. If I was commuting all the time I would probably run stock or 14/42.

The DR is one big compromise.

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Old 08-17-2012, 10:45 AM   #68345
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Yep. Just pointing out for those that don't know - different tests and different conditions will give different dB results. Which means you have to take any manufacturer's noise level claims with a grain of salt.
The DOT spec is 80db? Do you know if that is at some specific rpm or if it is at idle?

If we take everything with a grain of salt, how can we compare besides actually buying and trying everything?

What is your experience on noise level between the GSXR exhaust and the stock exhaust? Is the difference significant?
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:50 AM   #68346
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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
However generally a lower gear ratio will improve acceleration. And if you are already maxed out on available hp to get to your top speed and aren't close to the redline/rev limiter, then it is unlikely (with the DR) that a taller gear will get you any more speed. Your engine speed will be reduced (at a given road speed), but it will still require more hp then you currently have to overcome the drag. That is where a gearing advantage (lower gearing) can help.

Sometimes if top gear is to tall to begin with then a lower ratio will actually allow the engine to rev a little more into its powerband and pick up a few extra mph (at the price of increased engine speed of course).
I agree with all this. Is why my suggestion for a higher ratio was accompanied by the suggestion of the high compression piston and performance cam.
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:56 AM   #68347
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Do you use earplugs? Essential
I wear earbuds most of the time. I thought these worked well.



But, yesterday my music ended while on the highway, and I realized how much wind noise was getting through.

I also have some ER6i eartips mounted on a koss earphone. These won't stay put very well, and they are uncomfortable in over 30 minutes, so I generally wasn't using them. I guess it's time to make them work.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:11 AM   #68348
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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Some hate the faster spinning engine and are willing to compromise for a little less buzzy engine and run taller gearing. If I was commuting all the time I would probably run stock or 14/42.
+1 I found 14-42 to be just about right for commuting. It spins a little faster on the highway, but that's way better for your drivetrain than lugging it. I wouldn't want to cruise at 90+ mph on a machine like this so the slightly reduced top speed is purely academic for me.

In Shaddix' case however, if the machine won't exceed ~80mph, that is diagnostically relevant. My best suggestion would be to try one size larger main jet and see what happens. If that alleviates the issue, adjust the needle so the bike is as happy as possible with that jet, and... well problem solved I guess. If that makes it worse, then go the other way.
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Garak screwed with this post 08-17-2012 at 11:17 AM Reason: Hit submit too soon with my clumsy fingers on this tiny touch screen.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:36 AM   #68349
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Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
Ok so you're saying I actually need shorter gearing and that will give me to the top end quicker? (and in my case I will actually have more top end)
Just out of curiosity, what is you current gearing? I don't recall it being mentioned.
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:03 PM   #68350
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Hi all , not been here for a while , moved house and no internet !!!! on something called a bloody DONGLE !!! well it works but cost a fortune.
Anyway i'll get to the point , i'm after a chain / casing guard , found one on PROCYCLE $35 ................BUT they want $43 delivery to France

There's got to be another way !!! ANYONE KNOW A CHEAPER WAY?

Cheers Phil
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:29 PM   #68351
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Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
I agree with all this. Is why my suggestion for a higher ratio was accompanied by the suggestion of the high compression piston and performance cam.
+1 It takes more horsepower the faster you go because of the increased wind resistance. Wind resistance soon becomes a bigger problem than just moving the weight of you and the motorcycle. You can fiddle with the gearing to maximize your top speed or fastest acceleration for the amount of horsepower you have. But to go faster than that (top speed or acceleration), you will need more horsepower either through better tuning or aftermarket parts or a more powerful motorcycle.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:02 PM   #68352
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Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
+1 It takes more horsepower the faster you go because of the increased wind resistance. Wind resistance soon becomes a bigger problem than just moving the weight of you and the motorcycle. You can fiddle with the gearing to maximize your top speed or fastest acceleration for the amount of horsepower you have. But to go faster than that (top speed or acceleration), you will need more horsepower either through better tuning or aftermarket parts or a more powerful motorcycle.
That is what I was trying to get across. But I think you were much more efficent and to the point then I.

Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:07 PM   #68353
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:19 PM   #68354
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Thanks everyone! I'll mess with the carb first and put the next size up main jet in. Then I'll move on to the rear sprocket(my gearing is stock), hopefully that will be enough cause I doubt my ability to swap a piston out..
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:16 PM   #68355
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Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
The DOT spec is 80db? Do you know if that is at some specific rpm or if it is at idle?
I don't know the details of the EPA test. I'm sure it is more involved than the simple trailside test the forest rangers perform around here. Look on any stock muffler made in the last 30 years or so. It will say "...meets EPA noise emission requirements of 80 dBa...

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If we take everything with a grain of salt, how can we compare besides actually buying and trying everything?
The only way to know for sure how 2 mufflers compare is to actually compare them.

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Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
What is your experience on noise level between the GSXR exhaust and the stock exhaust? Is the difference significant?
On the DR the GSXR can is definitely louder than the stock DR can. They are both rated as meeting 80dB by the EPA when used in the original application.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
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