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Old 08-21-2012, 01:57 PM   #68476
deathu
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Location: Bucharest
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Fuel tank vent hose routing?

Hi,

I recently installed an IMS tank on my 1998 DR650. The tank came with non-lockable cap that has a venting orifice on top. The installation instructions I have state that I should run the supplied hose from the cap to the steering head area, and then connect it with the "original" vent hose using the supplied adapter. Here comes my question... my original tank did not have any vent hose! For now the hose is routed to the steering head area, but I guess that gasoline will spill from there if I drop the bike... This doesn't sound right to me, as it may be possible to spill gasoline over the hot exhaust header pipe.

I guess the "original" venting hose that my instructions refer to only exists for the Californian model? Where exactly should this hose be routed to, in my case?
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:01 PM   #68477
243Win
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

I recently installed an IMS tank on my 1998 DR650. The tank came with non-lockable cap that has a venting orifice on top. The installation instructions I have state that I should run the supplied hose from the cap to the steering head area, and then connect it with the "original" vent hose using the supplied adapter. Here comes my question... my original tank did not have any vent hose! For now the hose is routed to the steering head area, but I guess that gasoline will spill from there if I drop the bike... This doesn't sound right to me, as it may be possible to spill gasoline over the hot exhaust header pipe.

I guess the "original" venting hose that my instructions refer to only exists for the Californian model? Where exactly should this hose be routed to, in my case?
I just went to the local shop and got one that has a check valve of sorts in it. I simply run it forward and tuck it down into my other cables. Procycle has a stubby version of the same thing I'm going to be trying out soon.
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:29 PM   #68478
godwinmt
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Location: Seymour, IN
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DRZ Forks

I finished the DRZ fork swap this past weekend...relatively easy to do with minimal cursing needed! Hardest part was making the brackets for the ignition switch (still not completely happy with it), but it turned out pretty slick! I've got about 300 miles on the forks so far and wow what an improvement over the stockers...the front end feels much more predictable than before with the increased damping.

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Old 08-21-2012, 04:17 PM   #68479
vicster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Your current running situation sounds like exactly what would be expected if running the DJ/Procycle needle with an uncut air box. It runs well on the idle curcuit and WFO with the small main jet but is way too rich on the needle. You will never get that needle to work properly without opening the airbox.
We have a winner!!
Even though I had closely replicated the hole size I had created with the duct tape, apparently there's enough flex or whatever in duct tape () that it wouldn't work with the solid plastic replacement. First I made the opening still smaller with my favorite carberetor trouble shooting/repair material (duct tape) to test the theory and when it was worse I started carving the hole bigger. So far I've only opened it up about 1/4 or 5/16" but it is very close to perfect now. The opening is only slightly larger than the snorkel hole at this point. As I stated in my original post, my particular DR wouldn't run with the box opened the recomended amount. Clip on the PC needle on 3rd from top and I was wrong, I actually have a 145 main in there.
Very frustrating during this process, but in the end I learned something that in retrospect seems pretty obvious. What really had me chasing my tail is going full lean on the needle didn't get rid of the bogging and full rich helped slightly. Bottom line apparently is that there just plain wasn't enough air available for a 650cc air pump when I snapped the throttle open.
Sure is nice having the DR back running well...
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:01 PM   #68480
sandwash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
It's the DR's version of the Doohickey I guess. It's not bad though. It's the Neutral Sending Unit. Open the clutch-side of the motor, pull the clutch out, and remove the two screws holding the NSU in place (they're probably loose)... apply threadlock and reinstall snugly. Done.

'Course this means you have to drain your oil first, and probably need a new gasket for that side of the motor, but it really is an easy fix.

Rob
Do not take both screws out of the NSU at the same time,There is a spring and a dowel pin.Only do ONE screw at a time.As you more than likley will have the spring and dowel flying somewhere,it will not be pretty
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:03 PM   #68481
PedroPuku
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DR problem solved

Quote:
Originally Posted by bungen View Post
I had exactly the same problem 2 weeks ago and it was the kickstand switch. I removed the switch and joined the wires up under the seat. It had given me grief for 3 days and 1400kms and I was a happy chappy when my son did a web search and came up with the solution.

I bypassed the switch, but that wasn't the problem. I found the solution on an older post on this forum. It was the wiring harness under the seat being sucked into the snorkel depriving the carb/engine of air. I removed the snorkel and drilled a few 1/2 inch holes into the air box..... the missing problem went away immediately. I also rerouted the wiring harness along the frame rails.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:08 PM   #68482
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Or if you tip the bike on it's side, you don't need to drain anything.
But you'll need a crane to lift it back up. A 366 pound + tools-n-stuff dead-lift gets heavier every year.
And: lay it over on something soft like an old tire, so you don't bend yer shifter.

Thanks to LukasM:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=19784

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Do not take both screws out of the NSU at the same time.There is a spring and a dowel pin. Only do ONE screw at a time. As you more than likley will have the spring and dowel flying somewhere, it will not be pretty
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:18 PM   #68483
ThumperDR400
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Fork swap

@godwinmt

Is that the pull start cord on the ground next to the bike? Or the Rip cord for the parachute when you fall off the sucker?

Tell us more about the swap. My 2005 DR has developed a fork seal leak. I just tried the film cleaning trick, but I don't know if it worked. The next step is new seals, but I wouldn't want to do that without Intiminators or equivalent... and I wouldn't want do to THAT without considering a fork swap... Oh the decisions... Or I leave it leak a bit and just ride it like I stole it and dream about faster, lighter, cheaper, longer lasting, more comfortable, longer range, heated grips, longer travel suspension etc...

Jeremy
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:22 PM   #68484
BlueLghtning
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Location: Newnan, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I love it when a plan comes together. Just got off the phone with Seat Concepts. I had been in contact with them about making a taller seat for our DR's. Lendon, one of the owners had called me a couple times and we were hoping to have one in time for my trip to the Blue Ridge Parkway in early Sept. Lendon wanted to have one in time for me but couldn't make any promises.

Well the planets aligned and he was able to get the mold in time and I will have my tall seat in a few days. He also mentioned that he had orders for 3 more already. This is great for me because it addresses 2 issues at once. A better seat for long distances and the equivalent to lowering the pegs without getting my size 13's closer to the ground.

I imagine that ProCycle will have them soon also.

All you tall guys can have your cake and eat it too. You could even lower the pegs along with raising the seat. I just didn't want to lower the pegs because I ride mostly offroad and the rocks can be hell as it is.

Thanks Seat Concepts. Pictures and a report to follow.
Awesome. I'd been thinking about ordering a Seat Concepts seat, but at 6'4", I really wanted a taller seat!
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:33 PM   #68485
Rob.G
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A thread over on the Kawasaki Forums on the KLX250S about performance numbers got me motivated, so I ended up testing my KLX and my DR650. I have an old G-Tech Pro from the mid-90's, which used an accelerometer to test 0-60 and 1/4 mile performance.

This being the first time I've ever attempted to drag race a motorcycle, the results were not that pleasing. I got a best 0-60 of 6.06 sec and a best 1/4 mile time of 14.44 @ 91.6 mph. I think both of those times could be cut a bit with a little practice. The bike has the FCR carb, GSXR pipe, Twin-Air filter and airbox mods, 16/46 gearing. Elevation here is 150', temp was 74 deg and humidity 50%.

I wonder what a DR with the 790 kit would do by comparison! :)

Rob
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Old 08-22-2012, 03:42 AM   #68486
Motodeficient
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Interesting G-tech results there! I haven't heard much talk about 1/4 miles times or 0-60 times for the DR650. I guess those will never be the bike's strong areas or intent. Still fun to talk about it though!

I often wish my bike was faster but the other day I was fooling around timing a few things on the Vapor. Just cruising at a steady 40mph in 4th gear, then hammering the throttle results in 40mph to 60 mph in about 2.5 seconds according to the vapor. About 3 seconds doing the same in 5th gear from 50-70. When you think about those numbers, our DR650's are adequately quick! Not streetbike or supercar quick, but......

There was a thread over on DRrider with a guy who actually took his DR790 to the track. Like you found, the results just aren't that impressive. With the big bore its hard to get going and keep the front wheel down I imagine which will really slow your times down.

Here is the thread

http://drriders.com/topic4481.html

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Old 08-22-2012, 05:26 AM   #68487
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A thread over on the Kawasaki Forums on the KLX250S about performance numbers got me motivated, so I ended up testing my KLX and my DR650. I have an old G-Tech Pro from the mid-90's, which used an accelerometer to test 0-60 and 1/4 mile performance.

This being the first time I've ever attempted to drag race a motorcycle, the results were not that pleasing. I got a best 0-60 of 6.06 sec and a best 1/4 mile time of 14.44 @ 91.6 mph. I think both of those times could be cut a bit with a little practice. The bike has the FCR carb, GSXR pipe, Twin-Air filter and airbox mods, 16/46 gearing. Elevation here is 150', temp was 74 deg and humidity 50%.

I wonder what a DR with the 790 kit would do by comparison! :)

Rob
That's very close to stock gearing. I bet a box of donuts that it would improve with 14/42 (3:1) or 15/46 in your case.

Inquiring minds would like to know.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:42 AM   #68488
godwinmt
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Location: Seymour, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumperDR400 View Post
@godwinmt

Is that the pull start cord on the ground next to the bike? Or the Rip cord for the parachute when you fall off the sucker?

Tell us more about the swap. My 2005 DR has developed a fork seal leak. I just tried the film cleaning trick, but I don't know if it worked. The next step is new seals, but I wouldn't want to do that without Intiminators or equivalent... and I wouldn't want do to THAT without considering a fork swap... Oh the decisions... Or I leave it leak a bit and just ride it like I stole it and dream about faster, lighter, cheaper, longer lasting, more comfortable, longer range, heated grips, longer travel suspension etc...

Jeremy
I just checked outside...the cord is a set of earplugs someone in the plant must've dropped :)

The forks are off an '04 DRZ400S. The DRZ steering stem/bearings are pretty much identical to the ol' tractor's setup, so it was a matter of pull the bars off and lay them over the tank, pull the rest of the DR stuff, and then bolt up the DRZ front.

The DRZ uses the same headlight/cowl as the DR, so you get to reuse those parts. You will need new headlight mounts sicne the forks on the DRZ are bigger. I found a box of DRZ parts on ebay that had the brackets as well as a ton of bolts and misc brackets (brake line) etc. for $25.

You will need to modify the turn signal brackets (just take the top with the little alignment tab off) to fit, and the ignition switch needs remounted with homemade brackets as well. With some tweaking you should be able to get it mounted and still use the steering lock, but I was in a hurry with mine and it doesn't quite make it.

Unfortunately the stock DR wheel has a 17mm axle wheras the DRZ has a 20mm axle. The other problem is that DRZ wheels are pretty damn expensive to find in decent shape. Lucky for us though the front wheel off of an RM250 also works (I snagged one from an '07 for $85). The only problem with this is that the RM wheel doesn't have a provision to drive your speedo (I'm using a vapor, so this didn't affect me). The DRZ/RM has a smaller rotor than the DR, but some late model RM's (I know 07 for sure, not sure about others) have a floating front rotor like the DR. You'll need the axle spacers from whatever model bike you decide to use the front wheels from (RM in my case).

The brake is pretty much plug and play. Try and find the brackets to guide the line from a DRZ to make your life easier. Once the new brackets are on the line it's as simple as bolt the DR caliper up on the forks and go. The fender from the DR also works just fine, but I snagged a polisport YZ fender off of motorcyclesuperstore for $5

here's a quick cost breakdown for what I is needed to get it to work
'04 DRZ forks/tree - $200
'07 RM250 wheel - $85
RM250 axle - $15
Box of bolts with headlight brackets etc. - $25
trailtech vapor - $110
misc. aluminum flatstock - $5

So for me it cost $440 with the vapor. I'll make some back when I sell the forks/triple from the DR, but it's definitely a worthwhile upgrade. It completely transforms the bike...I mean it's still a tractor, but definitely less so than before.

Let me know if there are any questions.

-Malhon
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:45 AM   #68489
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Interesting G-tech results there! I haven't heard much talk about 1/4 miles times or 0-60 times for the DR650. I guess those will never be the bike's strong areas or intent. Still fun to talk about it though!

I often wish my bike was faster but the other day I was fooling around timing a few things on the Vapor. Just cruising at a steady 40mph in 4th gear, then hammering the throttle results in 40mph to 60 mph in about 2.5 seconds according to the vapor. About 3 seconds doing the same in 5th gear from 50-70. When you think about those numbers, our DR650's are adequately quick! Not streetbike or supercar quick, but......
I did some searching after making the post, and it seems those numbers are about right for the DR650. One site got a 14.1 out of it, so I'm darn close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
That's very close to stock gearing. I bet a box of donuts that it would improve with 14/42 (3:1) or 15/46 in your case.

Inquiring minds would like to know.
I have a 15T sprocket for the bike.. maybe I'll put it on this weekend and try again!

Rob
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:07 AM   #68490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I did some searching after making the post, and it seems those numbers are about right for the DR650. One site got a 14.1 out of it, so I'm darn close.

I have a 15T sprocket for the bike.. maybe I'll put it on this weekend and try again!

Rob
I want the 14 second barrier broken!
You can do it!
No more food for you untill after the test. I want new plugs installed, oil changed, and a lubed and perfectly adjusted chain. Wax your helmet and wear slick tight fitting clothing. Cheat if you have to, but I want a time reported in the 13s.

And of course be safe and on a closed course/track as the say, but BREAK THAT BARRIER!
The honor of this thread is at stake. Good luck.

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