the DR650 thread

[TRAVELGUY]

Your figures check out about the same as mine. Always getting 400+ miles and then I start looking for a gas station. Did reserve on one side at about 425 miles but did not run that side dry before filling up.

TravelGuy

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis

Afternoon all

This is a copy post from our Ride report but it will probably get better coverage and use in hear, probably been covered before s o m e w h e r e but now it is up to date.

Ok, we did a milage check the other day (when my bike was going).

We decided we wanted know how far the bike would go till reserve, I do not know what the reserve capacity of the Safari tank is so if someone does know please let me know.

So ..... riding the bike the speedo reads 60 mph, Mrs.Garmin shows 56/57 mph corrected.

That gives a correction value of approx 5%.

I travelled 441 miles so 709.7 km (approximately ) when is spluttered and I changed over to reserve.

Correction of 5% on Speedo would be around 419 miles or 675 km till reserve which is not too shabby.

We have yet to bend our fuel lines horizontal on the carb to get the last of the fuel out which I will do when we do the main valve service.

Anyway, hope this info is useful for someone ponding the merits of a larger tank for your DR 650.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by FatChance

+1 It takes more horsepower the faster you go because of the increased wind resistance. Wind resistance soon becomes a bigger problem than just moving the weight of you and the motorcycle. You can fiddle with the gearing to maximize your top speed or fastest acceleration for the amount of horsepower you have. But to go faster than that (top speed or acceleration), you will need more horsepower either through better tuning or aftermarket parts or a more powerful motorcycle.

i think better aerodynamics will also gain you more top speed.

[jhomc1300]

I am a noob at mechanical work, and I am in the process of replacing a seal on one of the front fork tubes on a 2008 that I bought recently. The shop manual says that the fork oil should be 6.5" below the top. There was a Race Tech valve, and a non stock spring in the fork. Will this affect the specified 6.5" of head room? Is 10w the proper fork oil to use?

Thanks

[Lil' Steve]

Originally Posted by jhomc1300

I am a noob at mechanical work, and I am in the process of replacing a seal on one of the front fork tubes on a 2008 that I bought recently. The shop manual says that the fork oil should be 6.5" below the top. There was a Race Tech valve, and a non stock spring in the fork. Will this affect the specified 6.5" of head room? Is 10w the proper fork oil to use?

Thanks

Fork oil height is meant to be measured with springs (and any aftermarket valves) out of the forks, and the forks fully compressed. 10w is a good starting point unless you have Intiminators installed. So to answer your question, no, they will not affect the 6.5" height since they wont be in there when you measure.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by vfr870

So to answer your question, no, they will not affect the 6.5" height since they wont be in there when you measure.

Except there will be less air gap.
Not a bad thing though.

[Lil' Steve]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Except there will be less air gap.
Not a bad thing though.

Yeah, I guess what I wrote doesnt equal what I meant. I think I use a 5" fork oil height. Cant remember shit these days.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by vfr870

Yeah, I guess what I wrote doesnt equal what I meant. I think I use a 5" fork oil height. Cant remember shit these days.

Hey, weren't you just laughing at Rusty Rocket for being ?

I measure 19.1 oz and pour it in each leg (565ml), per the manual. When I had the forks apart I drilled and tapped each fork cap, 1/8 NPT. Always use a cutting oil when tapping alum, WD-40 works fine.



Then I use one of these with a zip tie loose enough to slide up-n-down. Now I can adjust my oil level without disassembly, which came in handy when I put a 320mm rotor on the front. The brake works so much better that the fork dive with .46 Eibachs, was too much for my liking. Stock oil level is 16-1/8" (forks fully extended, with springs and caps installed), I added 20ml and ended up at 14-7/8". That's 1 1/4" or 5/8" per 10ml. You don't even have to move your handi-bars, way better than removing the springs and collapsing the forks everytime you want to experiment with oil levels.

Motion Pro P/N: 08-0121:


Ignore the oil bubble:

[Thumper Dan]

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis

Afternoon all

This is a copy post from our Ride report but it will probably get better coverage and use in hear, probably been covered before s o m e w h e r e but now it is up to date.

Ok, we did a milage check the other day (when my bike was going).

We decided we wanted know how far the bike would go till reserve, I do not know what the reserve capacity of the Safari tank is so if someone does know please let me know.

So ..... riding the bike the speedo reads 60 mph, Mrs.Garmin shows 56/57 mph corrected.

That gives a correction value of approx 5%.

I travelled 441 miles so 709.7 km (approximately ) when is spluttered and I changed over to reserve.

Correction of 5% on Speedo would be around 419 miles or 675 km till reserve which is not too shabby.

We have yet to bend our fuel lines horizontal on the carb to get the last of the fuel out which I will do when we do the main valve service.

Anyway, hope this info is useful for someone ponding the merits of a larger tank for your DR 650.

Since I had my Safari tank installed and filled, I've been waiting for it to run to reserve for the last couple of weeks. I did a reasonable amount of open and dirt road and city riding.

I ran to reserve this arvo and was 704.4km (not sure what that is in miles though). When I originally filled the tank up and I didn't actually fill it to the brim, so I may have gotten a few more k's out of her. But none the less, that is a fair wack of a distance without having to fuel in ya beast.

Sarfari tank.............recommended.

[Lil' Steve]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Hey, weren't you just laughing a Rusty Rocket for being ?

[maynard911]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Hey, weren't you just laughing a Rusty Rocket for being ?

I measure 19.1 oz and pour it in each leg (565ml), per the manual. When I had the forks apart I drilled and tapped each fork cap, 1/8 NPT. Always use a cutting oil when tapping alum, WD-40 works fine.



Then I use one of these with a zip tie loose enough to slide up-n-down. Now I can adjust my oil level without disassembly, which came in handy when I put a 320mm rotor on the front. The brake works so much better that the fork dive with .46 Eibachs, was too much for my liking. Stock oil level is 16-1/8" (forks fully extended, with springs and caps installed), I added 20ml and ended up at 14-7/8". That's 1 1/4" or 5/8" per 10ml. You don't even have to move your handi-bars, way better than removing the springs and collapsing the forks everytime you want to experiment with oil levels.

That's a great idea. Makes playing with the oil level easy enough to bother with, thanks.

[deathu]

Originally Posted by deathu

OK, update: pilot screw is now set to 1.25 turns out. Today I had relatively good results, meaning that the bike was acting normally after fully warming up. Basically *IF* I manage to rev it once, let's say to about 4000rpm, the engine starts behaving normally afterward. But for first times I try to rev it after cold starting, it always wants to stall instead of increasing RPM.

Hi everyone,

First of all thank you for your replies.
Hope I don't speak too soon, but I think I (accidentally) found the root cause of this issue

I recently replaced my stock tank with a new IMS 4.9gal one, with a manually operated petcock. Well, it seems that the stock petcock on my stock tank was defective, because it did not always stop the fuel flow when it should, i.e. sometimes the fuel was flowing even on the ON/RES positions, with no vacuum applied at all. Although I opened it and the diaphragm seemed OK, I think it may be possible that some fuel may have been leaking through the vacuum hose directly into the carb.

Well, the thing is, since I replaced the tank and capped the carburetor vacuum port, the startup issue never occurred again, which makes me think it was related to the defective petcock rather than to the carb itself. Does this sound logical, or possible?


On a side note, can anyone recommend a product that would be suitable as a quick & dirty fix to the leaking base gasket? It must only hold until this winter when I'll take the top end apart and replace the gasket with the proper one.

[godwinmt]

Finally got the DR back together and moving again! Picked up an aftermarket Dakar screen +4" and after a little paint, it looks awesome. Added in foldaway mirrors, and a Vapor to go with the DRZ forks and all is awesome at the moment! Now off to MotoGP in the morning!

[GaThumper]

Anybody looking for one of the old DG Baja skid plates? Good coverage back to and using the rear mounting points. Clamps will probably need some modifying on the front. I replaced mine with clanps from Utah, some people relocate them. Stock clamps in the stock location are very close to the engine case, maybe even rubbing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Baja-Skid-Pl...#ht_447wt_1018




It's a great plate if you can work it out, but now PWD has a full plate that uses the stock rear mounts as well as the lighter duty plate from SW Motech.

[Midnightventure]

On a side note, can anyone recommend a product that would be suitable as a quick & dirty fix to the leaking base gasket? It must only hold until this winter when I'll take the top end apart and replace the gasket with the proper one.[/QUOTE]

I used Mega Grey by Versa Chem. It's a high temp gasket maker. I bought it at the local o'reilleys. The color matches the engine color so it isn't even very noticable.

[westarcher]

Ok, I can't take longer rides. Two hours and my butts done. Corbin or Sargent ? I got to get one. Which is best ? Got a Suzuki gel which made it lower. I liked that. Still too narrow though. Thanks.