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Old 08-22-2012, 07:12 PM   #68521
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
I ordered a hayabusa/kientech exhaust with a spark arrestor already installed and am looking forward to shedding a little weight but I would like to keep my jetting stock if possible. In fact, my only reason for wanting an aftermarket exhaust is to shed some weight. I went down the cut the airbox top/jet kit route and prefer the stock setup with one shim raising the needle. Has anyone done the hayabusa exhaust and kept the airbox stock? I know jetting is a case by case science but I was hoping for a starting point for people who have done the hayabusa exhaust with a stock airbox.

Also; Has anyone tried tuning the front fork on the cheap by changing the compression or rebound holes slightly? I am not a big guy (170lbs without gear) or an aggressive rider and I don't feel that I need emulators but would like a little more plushness up front. Has anyone done any experimentation?

Thanks for any words of wisdom!
Keep the stock jetting with those changes and you'll likely burn a valve.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:24 PM   #68522
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Originally Posted by ShadyRascal View Post
I'll see that and raise you a Glacier park/Rocky mountain front loop



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Old 08-22-2012, 10:17 PM   #68523
TRAVELGUY
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I'm running a GSXR pipe with stock carb and jetting and having no problems. All it did was save weight which is what I was hoping for.

TravelGuy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
I ordered a hayabusa/kientech exhaust with a spark arrestor already installed and am looking forward to shedding a little weight but I would like to keep my jetting stock if possible. In fact, my only reason for wanting an aftermarket exhaust is to shed some weight. I went down the cut the airbox top/jet kit route and prefer the stock setup with one shim raising the needle. Has anyone done the hayabusa exhaust and kept the airbox stock? I know jetting is a case by case science but I was hoping for a starting point for people who have done the hayabusa exhaust with a stock airbox.

Also; Has anyone tried tuning the front fork on the cheap by changing the compression or rebound holes slightly? I am not a big guy (170lbs without gear) or an aggressive rider and I don't feel that I need emulators but would like a little more plushness up front. Has anyone done any experimentation?

Thanks for any words of wisdom!
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:40 PM   #68524
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Cheat if you have to, but I want a time reported in the 13s.
I actually expected the DR to break 14 as my 558cc Nordwest did 14.1 and I feel the DR has a much better bottom end.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:15 AM   #68525
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
Here's a good compendium:

http://dalefranks.com/cycles/wp-cont...anPerfIndx.pdf

Shows the DR650 0-60 in the mid 5s, 1/4 mile in the (very) low 14s.
Interesting data there, but why in the world does the 2007 DR650SE do the 60-to-Zero stop in 131 feet while the older DR650, from 1996, stops in 118 feet?
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:54 AM   #68526
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Interesting data there, but why in the world does the 2007 DR650SE do the 60-to-Zero stop in 131 feet while the older DR650, from 1996, stops in 118 feet?
glad I have a '96
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:06 AM   #68527
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Interesting data there, but why in the world does the 2007 DR650SE do the 60-to-Zero stop in 131 feet while the older DR650, from 1996, stops in 118 feet?
Could just be a difference in break-in on the pads and rotors. I think the brakes on my DR650 suck, so my '96 probably falls into the 130-foot range. My G-Tech does do 60-0 braking too... suppose I could practice and see what it does.

Soon as I get a tap to chase the threads on my 15T sprocket, I can swap it on and go do some more testing.

Rob
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:27 AM   #68528
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Eh? Statistics

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Interesting data there, but why in the world does the 2007 DR650SE do the 60-to-Zero stop in 131 feet while the older DR650, from 1996, stops in 118 feet?
I believe Sannuel Clemmons is credited with saying that there are three kinds of 'untruths', Lies, Damned Lies and Statistics!
At first glance that looks like a big difference, and it would seem like one if there was a stopped truck you could not go around at 125'. The difference is 13', which is 0.15 seconds (at 60 mph). Despite having been told more than once how exactly skid marks can be used to calculate speed, I think that you could easily make that big a difference by altering tire pressures, temperatures, the tires themselves or the texture of the pavement. As I have heard said "That is why they play the game". Statistics, no matter how carefully recorded, from different times and places don't really tell you the whole story. There could have been lots of reasons for a 13' difference in 60 to 0 stopping over an 11 year period, I doubt we will ever know them.


Bruce
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:19 AM   #68529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Interesting data there, but why in the world does the 2007 DR650SE do the 60-to-Zero stop in 131 feet while the older DR650, from 1996, stops in 118 feet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
I believe Sannuel Clemmons is credited with saying that there are three kinds of 'untruths', Lies, Damned Lies and Statistics!
At first glance that looks like a big difference, and it would seem like one if there was a stopped truck you could not go around at 125'. The difference is 13', which is 0.15 seconds (at 60 mph). Despite having been told more than once how exactly skid marks can be used to calculate speed, I think that you could easily make that big a difference by altering tire pressures, temperatures, the tires themselves or the texture of the pavement. As I have heard said "That is why they play the game". Statistics, no matter how carefully recorded, from different times and places don't really tell you the whole story. There could have been lots of reasons for a 13' difference in 60 to 0 stopping over an 11 year period, I doubt we will ever know them.


Bruce
simple answer

Steroids

New testing procedures probably hold the '07 to a new standard and the old statistics from the '96 era should probably be marked with an *
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:01 AM   #68530
Rusty Rocket
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tire deal

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3223077921.html
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:08 AM   #68531
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
probably needs the money to pay the maid
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:40 PM   #68532
isgila
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WTB: DR650SE 96 rear shock

Good day guys,
Anybody got a spare rear shock to let go for cheaps.
Want to sent it to rick at CD for the group buy.
Way too expensive to sent mine from Singapore.
Or can someone pls check which year is compatible with 96 model.
Pls PM me
Thanks

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Old 08-23-2012, 07:50 PM   #68533
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post
Keep the stock jetting with those changes and you'll likely burn a valve.
Is a Hayabusa muffler the muff of choice now for the DR? Is it lighter then the stocker by much?
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:58 PM   #68534
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godwinmt View Post
I just checked outside...the cord is a set of earplugs someone in the plant must've dropped :)

The forks are off an '04 DRZ400S. The DRZ steering stem/bearings are pretty much identical to the ol' tractor's setup, so it was a matter of pull the bars off and lay them over the tank, pull the rest of the DR stuff, and then bolt up the DRZ front.

The DRZ uses the same headlight/cowl as the DR, so you get to reuse those parts. You will need new headlight mounts sicne the forks on the DRZ are bigger. I found a box of DRZ parts on ebay that had the brackets as well as a ton of bolts and misc brackets (brake line) etc. for $25.

You will need to modify the turn signal brackets (just take the top with the little alignment tab off) to fit, and the ignition switch needs remounted with homemade brackets as well. With some tweaking you should be able to get it mounted and still use the steering lock, but I was in a hurry with mine and it doesn't quite make it.

Unfortunately the stock DR wheel has a 17mm axle wheras the DRZ has a 20mm axle. The other problem is that DRZ wheels are pretty damn expensive to find in decent shape. Lucky for us though the front wheel off of an RM250 also works (I snagged one from an '07 for $85). The only problem with this is that the RM wheel doesn't have a provision to drive your speedo (I'm using a vapor, so this didn't affect me). The DRZ/RM has a smaller rotor than the DR, but some late model RM's (I know 07 for sure, not sure about others) have a floating front rotor like the DR. You'll need the axle spacers from whatever model bike you decide to use the front wheels from (RM in my case).

The brake is pretty much plug and play. Try and find the brackets to guide the line from a DRZ to make your life easier. Once the new brackets are on the line it's as simple as bolt the DR caliper up on the forks and go. The fender from the DR also works just fine, but I snagged a polisport YZ fender off of motorcyclesuperstore for $5

here's a quick cost breakdown for what I is needed to get it to work
'04 DRZ forks/tree - $200
'07 RM250 wheel - $85
RM250 axle - $15
Box of bolts with headlight brackets etc. - $25
trailtech vapor - $110
misc. aluminum flatstock - $5

So for me it cost $440 with the vapor. I'll make some back when I sell the forks/triple from the DR, but it's definitely a worthwhile upgrade. It completely transforms the bike...I mean it's still a tractor, but definitely less so than before.

Let me know if there are any questions.

-Malhon
Just a sidenote. The RMX has the 17mm axle,its the same as the RM except it has the speedo drive. I have a DRZ as well,Ive tried a few things to try to get the forks to work better,valving/springs/oil. They kinda work but are harsh yet mushy when pushed hard.
My new 530 solved the problem.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:04 PM   #68535
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

I recently installed an IMS tank on my 1998 DR650. The tank came with non-lockable cap that has a venting orifice on top. The installation instructions I have state that I should run the supplied hose from the cap to the steering head area, and then connect it with the "original" vent hose using the supplied adapter. Here comes my question... my original tank did not have any vent hose! For now the hose is routed to the steering head area, but I guess that gasoline will spill from there if I drop the bike... This doesn't sound right to me, as it may be possible to spill gasoline over the hot exhaust header pipe.

I guess the "original" venting hose that my instructions refer to only exists for the Californian model? Where exactly should this hose be routed to, in my case?
Dirt bikes have been routing their gas cap vent lines to the hole in the middle of the steering head since time began,maybe before.
None have caught on fire or exploded. There have how ever been instances of vent lines with check valves in them ceasing to vent the tank,thus the vapor lock monster arises.
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