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Old 08-24-2012, 09:16 AM   #68521
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Go to Walmart and buy a couple of cans of Carb Cleaner, couple bux a piece. I try to keep at least 3-4 on hand at any given time.

Removing the carb is pretty easy... pull side panels, seat, gas tank. Disconnect throttle cable.. not sure how that's done on the stock carb -- I have the FCR pumper in mine. Anyway, loosen the clamps on both ends, and you should be able to pry it free. You might have to pull the boot between the carb and airbox, but I'm not sure.

If the carb's never been open, the philips screws on the bowl are going to be tight beyond any human reason. I dunno why Mikuni does this, but every Mikuni carb I have ever touched has super-duper tight float bowl screws. I end up using needle-nose vice grips to pop 'em loose and then replace them with socket-cap screws from the local hardware store. I think ProCycle stocks 'em too if you'd rather order them.

There isn't much to "see" once inside the carb if it's fairly clean. Otherwise you may see gunk in there if it's really dirty. If it IS that dirty, then you'll want to totally disassemble it and soak it overnight in Pine Sol or carb cleaner (Pine Sol is way cheaper).. but that's beyond the scope of this post. :)

Anyway... just spray it out real good. Remove the pilot jet and run a wire through it.. be sure it passes through smoothly. Pilot jets have super tiny holes so spraying them out usually won't work. My FZ1's pilots were still clogged even after soaking for 24 hours in Pine Sol. They only came clean with wire, and once clean, man did it make a difference in how the bike idled!!

Try not to be intimidated by all this if you've never done it before. Remember you have this site as a resource.

Rob
Sounds like a fun little project for this weekend. I remember seeing the Pinesol thread on here somewhere, so I'll research that a bit too. I've never done a single stinking thing to a carb before, so I'll be reading the service manual religiously this afternoon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
Did you let it dry out and drain (oil) before re-installing Filter? Check the airbox, the bottom is may be full of oil
The instructions just said to let it sit for twenty minutes and verify that it was red all over like the pictures. After twenty minutes, it was the right color, so I popped it back in. I don't remember seeing a puddle or anything in the bottom of the air box, but maybe a little bit of residue.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:16 AM   #68522
Rob.G
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Originally Posted by dragnbiker View Post
I just rinsed it untill it was white. Shook the hell out of it for a few untill the water stopped spraying off and let it sit in the sun for a halfhour... as far as the spay.. try to evenly coat the filter untill the filter has no visible white.. pinkish red is what you want. But not dripping
I let mine dry overnight but otherwise I did the same thing. Definitely not dripping... major waste of oil.

This is one thing that is nice about the foam filters... while you do have to saturate them with oil, you ultimately squeeze all the excess out... it helps ensure you have the correct amount.

Rob
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:20 AM   #68523
Rob.G
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The instructions just said to let it sit for twenty minutes and verify that it was red all over like the pictures. After twenty minutes, it was the right color, so I popped it back in. I don't remember seeing a puddle or anything in the bottom of the air box, but maybe a little bit of residue.
Given that you went from a running bike with a very, very dirty filter to a non-running bike and a totally clean filter, it's probably the carburetor.

Carbs are a pain in the ass, but after you do it enough times, it's not so bad. I've been into five carburetors over the past few years... the FCR pumper in my DR650 (and my Outlaw 525 has the very same carb), the Keihen CVK in my KLX250S, the rack of four carbs in my FZ1, and the Mikuni in my old Grizzly 660 ATV that I sold a while back. In hindsight, that thing needed a total rebuild or new carb.. it ran like crap too. I've since learned a ton about carbs. And learned everything I know from the 'net... this forum, FZ1OA, and other related sites. I'm not even close to truly understanding how the damn things work, but I know a lot more than I used to.

Rob
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:27 AM   #68524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Sounds like a fun little project for this weekend. I remember seeing the Pinesol thread on here somewhere, so I'll research that a bit too. I've never done a single stinking thing to a carb before, so I'll be reading the service manual religiously this afternoon.



The instructions just said to let it sit for twenty minutes and verify that it was red all over like the pictures. After twenty minutes, it was the right color, so I popped it back in. I don't remember seeing a puddle or anything in the bottom of the air box, but maybe a little bit of residue.
I use a hair dryer on low to speed drying. It sounds like the filter isn't flowing air for some reason. Too much oil is possible. My cousin oiled his TwinAir with a whole bottle of airfilter oil. He couldn't get the bike to run. When I found the filter dripping and weighing about a pound we cleaned and re-oiled it and all was well.

Also, clean that filter under your seat that cleans the air to the carb diaphragm. I use a piece of foam that I cut from a Briggs & Stratton airfilter element that you can get at most hardware stores. oil it like you would your air filter.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:37 AM   #68525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Given that you went from a running bike with a very, very dirty filter to a non-running bike and a totally clean filter, it's probably the carburetor.

Carbs are a pain in the ass, but after you do it enough times, it's not so bad. I've been into five carburetors over the past few years... the FCR pumper in my DR650 (and my Outlaw 525 has the very same carb), the Keihen CVK in my KLX250S, the rack of four carbs in my FZ1, and the Mikuni in my old Grizzly 660 ATV that I sold a while back. In hindsight, that thing needed a total rebuild or new carb.. it ran like crap too. I've since learned a ton about carbs. And learned everything I know from the 'net... this forum, FZ1OA, and other related sites. I'm not even close to truly understanding how the damn things work, but I know a lot more than I used to.

Rob
The strange thing is that when I take the air filter off, or even just remove the airbox cover, it runs just fine. Well, it idles a bit rough with the side cover off, but when I just take off the filter, it sounds perfect. Obviously, I can't run it without a filter, but it does seem to isolate the problem. I am going to take a crack at that carb, though. I need to do it eventually, and I'm already in the mood.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:47 AM   #68526
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The strange thing is that when I take the air filter off, or even just remove the airbox cover, it runs just fine. Well, it idles a bit rough with the side cover off, but when I just take off the filter, it sounds perfect. Obviously, I can't run it without a filter, but it does seem to isolate the problem. I am going to take a crack at that carb, though. I need to do it eventually, and I'm already in the mood.
Oh wow, interesting! I should have asked you that. :)

Then this tells me the carb is probably fine (but if you're in the mood, go for it)... I would do what dragnbiker did -- soak the filter in a bucket of warm water with Simple Green in it. Clean it again. In fact, once it's clean and totally dry, put it back on the bike before oiling it. Does it run? If so, then it was overoiled. If not, then maybe it is the carb... or like Rusty Rocket said, that other little filter might be the cause. My bike doesn't have that filter with the FCR.

Part of this diagnostics is actually kinda fun. I went through it two weekends ago on my FZ1. Thing was running poorly at low RPM, then a problem developed at higher RPMs. It would "stutter" and just not run right. A guy on FZO1A said put in new spark plugs and trim the plug wires down 1/2" to ensure the caps are all making good contact. So I did. No change. Pulled the carbs again. Found one of the main jets had come loose and was rattling around in the bowl. Well, there was my WOT throttle problem. Pulled the pilot jets and "flossed" them, then reinstalled. The idle problem was much improved.

Then while sync'ing the carbs with the manometer, I noticed cyl#3 popping/cutting out. Hmmm. Pulled the carbs again, reverified everything, reinstalled. Still doing it. And posting the results at each step. Apparently there were a bunch of guys not doing anything this particular Sunday since I was getting help every few minutes.

So somebody suggested swapping the coils around -- the FZ1 has two coils, each one running two cylinders. One ran 1,4 and one ran 2,3. Rather than do that, I swapped the #3 plug cap with #4, which should accomplish the same thing since it was on the other coil. Sure enough, cyl #4 was now the one not running right. I verified it with my infra-red temp gauge... 1,2,3 were 500 deg on the header, and 4 was 125. Nope, not firing.

So I popped on eBay and ordered a set of coils/plug wires (you can't get just wires) from a used bike parts place for $35 shipped. They showed up two days later and took ten minutes to install. BINGO! The bike runs great! Smooth idle, smooth running, craploads of power (125 hp at the wheel). Finally, two months after buying the bike in crap-running condition, it's finally right. I had the carbs out at least eight times, and even soaked 'em. Replaced all the O-rings, etc, etc. Whoodathunk it'd be a bad plug wire!

Despite the issues, I'd still rather deal with this than fuel injection.

Rob
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:16 AM   #68527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Sounds like a fun little project for this weekend. I remember seeing the Pinesol thread on here somewhere, so I'll research that a bit too. I've never done a single stinking thing to a carb before, so I'll be reading the service manual religiously this afternoon.

.................................
Here's all you'll ever need to know about the DR650 carb. The first few pages are for the KTM BST-40 carb, some parts are different than ours, so don't freak out when yours isn't identical to the pics.

The BST-40 bible:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=bst40

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Also, clean that filter under your seat that cleans the air to the carb diaphragm. I use a piece of foam that I cut from a Briggs & Stratton airfilter element that you can get at most hardware stores. oil it like you would your air filter.
More information:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=82


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Old 08-24-2012, 11:43 AM   #68528
neo1piv014
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You guys are the bomb. Thanks! What is this Simple Green stuff I keep hearing about, by the way?

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Old 08-24-2012, 11:47 AM   #68529
Rob.G
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
You guys are the bomb. Thanks! What is this Simple Green stuff I keep hearing about, by the way?
Holy cow, you haven't heard of Simple Green???

Walmart... cleaning products aisle, or in the car cleaning products asile. It's darn green, in a spray bottle. It's only THE best all-around cleaner money can buy. Totally non-toxic, biodegradable, etc. There are even instructions on the bottle for using as laundry detergent if you want.

The way it comes it's full-strength. You can save a bunch of money by diluting it with water. I suggest buying one spray bottle and then one of the big refill bottles. Then each time you spray the bottle down about 1/3 of the way, fill it up again with water. After 3-4 times of this, let it run out. Then refill it 1/2 to 1/3 of the way with the refill, and the rest with water from the faucet.

It's great for getting bug crap off your car before you wash it (think of it as a prewash), removing stains from carpet, clothes, whatever.

Rob
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:53 AM   #68530
neo1piv014
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Holy cow, you haven't heard of Simple Green???

Walmart... cleaning products aisle, or in the car cleaning products asile. It's darn green, in a spray bottle. It's only THE best all-around cleaner money can buy. Totally non-toxic, biodegradable, etc. There are even instructions on the bottle for using as laundry detergent if you want.

The way it comes it's full-strength. You can save a bunch of money by diluting it with water. I suggest buying one spray bottle and then one of the big refill bottles. Then each time you spray the bottle down about 1/3 of the way, fill it up again with water. After 3-4 times of this, let it run out. Then refill it 1/2 to 1/3 of the way with the refill, and the rest with water from the faucet.

It's great for getting bug crap off your car before you wash it (think of it as a prewash), removing stains from carpet, clothes, whatever.

Rob
So on a scale of 1 to the ungodly cleaning power of Tuf Stuff - let's call that 10 - Simple Green is pretty awesome? I'm going to have to give this a shot.
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:57 AM   #68531
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So on a scale of 1 to the ungodly cleaning power of Tuf Stuff - let's call that 10 - Simple Green is pretty awesome? I'm going to have to give this a shot.
I've used it full strength to remove Sharpie markings on plastic.. as long as the sharpie markings aren't that old. If they've been around for ages, forget it.

Note... I've read that Simple Green has been known to cause pitting on aluminum if left on it for an extended time. It's fine for cleaning it, just don't spray and forget. I use it all the time to clean grease off my DR650, like all the grease crap that builds up around the front sprocket. Though FWIW, WD40 actually works better in that particular case. Then I re-oil the chain afterward. :)

Rob
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:15 PM   #68532
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Note... I've read that Simple Green has been known to cause pitting on aluminum if left on it for an extended time. It's fine for cleaning it, just don't spray and forget. I use it all the time to clean grease off my DR650, like all the grease crap that builds up around the front sprocket. Though FWIW, WD40 actually works better in that particular case. Then I re-oil the chain afterward. :)

Rob

All true, also don't spray it full strength around anything that might be greased
(unless you want it off). I use it to clean the alloy wheels on our cars but you need to keep it away from the brake callipers or after a while there is no more grease on pins, mounts ect.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #68533
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The gsxr pipes are going for stupid money now. It's crazy.
I just picked up my 35F0 GSX-R can on ebay for $46 in pretty much mint condition. These are the cans that came on 01-03 GSXR 600 and 00-03 GSXR 750. They will flow plenty well for a DR650, considering the 00-03 GSXR 750 makes 140HP, 100 HP more than our bikes. It is a couple pounds heavier than the 40F0 (01-02 GSXR 1000) but still much lighter than the stock muffler. Very nice tone, louder than stock for sure but not as loud as the FMF Q4 and hardly any popping on decel. I am not sad that I did not hold out for a 40F0. Dimention wise, the 35F0 and 40F0 are the same. The Keintech GSXR midpipe kit will work for either the 35F0 or the 40F0.

The GSXR midpipe kit from keintech is VERY nice. It seems expensive, until you get the kit in your hands. They put a lot of effort into making it a perfect bolt-up to the DR650. Even including a nice machined, SOLID, handsome bracket to mount the muffler to the mounting point on the sub-frame. So with the 35F0 and Keintech midpipe kit, I have $280 including shipping into the setup. My FMF Q4 that I had previously cost me $300 shipped.

One of the big reasons I held off on the GSXR pipe conversion was that I liked the way the FMF looked, and didn't think I liked the way the GSXR muffler looked. Now that I have it installed, the GSXR muffler looks awesome on the bike.

Motodeficient screwed with this post 08-24-2012 at 12:32 PM
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:49 PM   #68534
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we just have to get Briggs and Stratton to sell the pieces they punch out.

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Old 08-24-2012, 01:14 PM   #68535
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Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
I just picked up my 35F0 GSX-R can on ebay for $46 in pretty much mint condition. These are the cans that came on 01-03 GSXR 600 and 00-03 GSXR 750. They will flow plenty well for a DR650, considering the 00-03 GSXR 750 makes 140HP, 100 HP more than our bikes. It is a couple pounds heavier than the 40F0 (01-02 GSXR 1000) but still much lighter than the stock muffler. Very nice tone, louder than stock for sure but not as loud as the FMF Q4 and hardly any popping on decel. I am not sad that I did not hold out for a 40F0. Dimention wise, the 35F0 and 40F0 are the same. The Keintech GSXR midpipe kit will work for either the 35F0 or the 40F0.

The GSXR midpipe kit from keintech is VERY nice. It seems expensive, until you get the kit in your hands. They put a lot of effort into making it a perfect bolt-up to the DR650. Even including a nice machined, SOLID, handsome bracket to mount the muffler to the mounting point on the sub-frame. So with the 35F0 and Keintech midpipe kit, I have $280 including shipping into the setup. My FMF Q4 that I had previously cost me $300 shipped.

One of the big reasons I held off on the GSXR pipe conversion was that I liked the way the FMF looked, and didn't think I liked the way the GSXR muffler looked. Now that I have it installed, the GSXR muffler looks awesome on the bike.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Suzuki-...8d7a9f&vxp=mtr
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