the DR650 thread

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by FlyingTurkish

When the fuel valve is in ON position, the bike does not start(even if the bike is warmed up).
I have to switch it to PRI position to start it,
and when I switch it back to ON position it works for less than a minute then dies.

It works fine if I ride it in ON, but when in idle it dies.
No throttle, no magic.
Same thing with the RES position.

Anybody had this problem or have anything similar to this ?
My guess is carb diaphragm failure, sticky jets or vacuum hose problem...
In my opinion, there is definitely a problem with the vacuum, because it only needs vacuum in ON and RES positions.
In primary there is no limitations for the fuel so it works just fine.

See the post by Deathu just a few posts prior to yours.
The petcock was the problem.

Our friend ER70S-2 gave you excellent info.

Your problem is carb vacuum/petcock.
Your bike runs fine on the "Prime" (not primary) position tells you it is not getting vacuum to open the "On" & "Res" positions.

Most probable is that tiny o-ring in the carb where the vacuum hose to the petcock is located.
The diaphragm in the petcock could be damaged but not as likely as a missing or out of place o-ring.

Working on the side of the road with few tools is something all of us do when we are riding away from home so we know what you face. That's part of the "Adventure"!

[dukegnarley]

Hey all.

I'm heading out on a trip in two weeks and I need to get a spark arrestor for my gsxr600 can. I've seen plenty of recomendations for a spark arrestors on the gsxr1000 muffler, but none for the 600.

Does anyone know what will fit? I'm about to just throw down and buy an aftermarket muffler but I like the lack of maintenance on the one i have now.

[ER70S-2]

The inside of my spark arrestor measures 1.465", the rest are guesstimates. If your gsxr outlet is 'about' 1.6" I.D. the arrestor will fit (maybe )

1.465 I.D. plus 1/16" wall thickness x 2 = 1.590 O.D. of my spark arrestor.

If you look closely you can see #9000 across the top, FMF's part number. Dennis Kirk has them but I don't know what their part # is.

God bless search engines:
http://reviews.denniskirk.com/2388/p432780/reviews.htm

[vicster]

Originally Posted by vicster

Quoting myself here to see if I can get more input (thanks Ghostdncr). It's been a week now of maybe the only sunshine western Washington will see this summer and it's still not dried out enough to function properly. Gauge doesn't wake up with motor start, bike has to be moving, and the mode button doesn't work at all. It has dried out enough that theres no longer vapor visible under the display though.
Very disappointed and more than a little surprised. Did a lot of research, but just ASSumed a $125 motorcycle gauge for trail bikes would be waterproof. Maybe "Vapor" was the hidden clue?
It'a few months out of warranty.
TIA for any help.

Just to update: Contacted Trail Tech by email and they said to send the unit in and they'd check it out. I did, they did, and I had a new unit on my doorstep in about a week, even though original was past warranty. The new one has a clearer read out, resets faster, and the tach is steady, unlike the wandering of the original.
Can't beat it.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by maynard911

That's a great idea. Makes playing with the oil level easy enough to bother with, thanks.

[vicster]

'09 with 11K miles.IMS tank, stock exhaust.
A few thousand miles ago I tried installing the Pro Cycle jet kit as stock there was some lean surge. No way in hell would the bike run after the airbox was cut per instructions, regardless of where I put the needle it was way too lean. Used duct tape to slowly cover the hole while moving the needle until I had a hole slightly larger than the snorkel hole and the needle clip on 3rd from top. Ran great, got 50+mpg for many miles, but the duct tape of course kept coming loose. Had a little of what felt like lean surge, so I marked the air box and replaced the duct tape with a riveted and siliconed piece of tank bag stiffener.
Now the bike starts and idle just fine, takes full throttle on the stock main jet just fine, but if I try to give it a bunch of throttle in the mid range it falls on its face.
It will rev to red line on full throttle.
When I let off full throttle to about 3/4s it dies then catches and continues to accelerate.
If I ease the throttle open it pulls ok.
It does it whether fuel tap is on regular or reserve.
Starts and idles great, responds to idle mixture screw changes.
Will cruise at a steady 65 to 70 just fine.
I've gone from full up to full down on the needle clip - no real difference other than a very very slight improvement at full rich.
Slide has been drilled for a few thousand miles.
Manifold screws are tight.
Petcock vacuum plug is in place and in good condition.
Air cleaner is clean.
Fuel filter is clear.
Little o-ring under the cap is in place and looks fine.
No smell of unburnt fuel.
Valve adjustment is spot on.
Plugs are only about 1K miles old.
I just can't open the throttle fast unless I go to FULL throttle. Anything less than full throttle it hesitates, catches, then craps out again.

Any ideas what to try next?
The long range plan is to find a stock air box and just put everything back to stock.

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by AKsteve

So, I bought a 2006 dr650. It has a Dynojet kit (main jet dj170 - the largest), a FMF q2 exhaust, a K&N air filter and the airbox has the top cut out of it. This is the way it came. It is loud (which I don't like) and powerful (which is pretty cool).

It also sucks gas like you wouldn't believe. I haven't measured it exactly but I would say it is about 30 mpg, if that.

I never had an aftermarket jet kit, exhaust and air filter. Is it unusual for the mpg to be so low? Or is this the norm for such a set up?

Thanks.

You should be able to get at least high-40s MPG with this bike. As somebody else mentioned before, try leaning out (raising) the clip position on the needle too, This will lower the needle in the slide a tiny bit. When it starts degrading driveability, lower the clip a position (raise the needle) and check your MPG again. You basically want it as lean as it can go without degrading the driveability.

You'll want to re-check the idle-mix screw adjustment after this too. You'll want it as lean as it can go, while still idling smoothly at full operating temp with the cold-start enrichener fully off.

The main is checked by WOT acceleration in 3rd or 4th gear. If it feels "mushy", you're probably too rich on the main. If you back off from WOT to 3/4-7/8 throttle and it accelerates harder, you're too lean. If it accelerates the same or slightly less when backing it off, without any black smoke or fuel smell, you're in the ballpark.

Check your float height too. If all this doesn't improve your MPG well into the 40s, it could also be time for a carb rebuild, especially the O-rings.

[sandwash]

Originally Posted by dukegnarley

Hey all.

I'm heading out on a trip in two weeks and I need to get a spark arrestor for my gsxr600 can. I've seen plenty of recomendations for a spark arrestors on the gsxr1000 muffler, but none for the 600.

Does anyone know what will fit? I'm about to just throw down and buy an aftermarket muffler but I like the lack of maintenance on the one i have now.

What I did do install the FMF S/A.I dremeled the welds off the end cap screws and cut slices in the end pipe to spread it open a bit,slid the S/A in and screwed the end cap back on.The S/A is sandwiched between the end cap and end pipe.I think all FMF S/A have that #9000 stamped on them.Here is a pic of the install on a 600 GSXR can.This FMF S/A is bigger in dia.then the one that fits the 1000 can.



This is a pic of the 1000 size FMF (part # 20908?) installed a D&D can.Look at MX-Robs how to on the 1000 can for the right FMF #

[GaThumper]

Just found out about some aftermarket clear lens/amber bulbs reported to fit our bikes. Maybe this has been posted before, but if so then I missed it. There was a post over on drriders about clear turn signals and it was posted there that Emgo made replacement lens for our stock signals.

Emgo part number is 59-21441 and includes amber bulbs. They probably can be ordered from your local parts counter, but are found online at NCS/Niche Cycle Supply (they also have them listed in their Ebay store). Here are the links if anyone is interested.

http://www.nichecycle.com/ProductDes...441&type=0&eq=

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR650...ht_2011wt_1018





From the Emgo Catalog

59-21441 SUZUKI

FRONT AND REAR
DR125S ‘94-’96
DR200S ‘96-’00
DR250S ‘90-’95
DR350S ‘90-’99
DR650S ‘92-’06
GS500E ‘89-’00
GSF1200 Bandit ‘97-’99
GSF600 Bandit ‘96-’99
GSX-R1100 ‘89-’98
GSX-R750 ‘88-’95
GSX600 Katana ‘88-’97
GSX750 ‘89-’97
RF600RR ‘94-’96

RF900RR ‘94-’96

[TRAVELGUY]

Wasn't it posted here some weeks ago that since the GSXR muffler is OEM that all are "spark arrested internally"?

TravelGuy ?

Originally Posted by dukegnarley

Hey all.

I'm heading out on a trip in two weeks and I need to get a spark arrestor for my gsxr600 can. I've seen plenty of recomendations for a spark arrestors on the gsxr1000 muffler, but none for the 600.

Does anyone know what will fit? I'm about to just throw down and buy an aftermarket muffler but I like the lack of maintenance on the one i have now.

[JAFO]

Uh, what?

EVERYTHING electrical works off of volts and amps. It so happens car horns draw more amperage yes. But you can NEVER go wrong running high-amperage circuits through a relay.

Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

[dukegnarley]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

Wasn't it posted here some weeks ago that since the GSXR muffler is OEM that all are "spark arrested internally"?

TravelGuy ?

may be so, but it's not USFS approved, or so i've read.

[planemanx15]

Originally Posted by vicster

'09 with 11K miles.IMS tank, stock exhaust.
A few thousand miles ago I tried installing the Pro Cycle jet kit as stock there was some lean surge. No way in hell would the bike run after the airbox was cut per instructions, regardless of where I put the needle it was way too lean. Used duct tape to slowly cover the hole while moving the needle until I had a hole slightly larger than the snorkel hole and the needle clip on 3rd from top. Ran great, got 50+mpg for many miles, but the duct tape of course kept coming loose. Had a little of what felt like lean surge, so I marked the air box and replaced the duct tape with a riveted and siliconed piece of tank bag stiffener.
Now the bike starts and idle just fine, takes full throttle on the stock main jet just fine, but if I try to give it a bunch of throttle in the mid range it falls on its face.
It will rev to red line on full throttle.
When I let off full throttle to about 3/4s it dies then catches and continues to accelerate.
If I ease the throttle open it pulls ok.
It does it whether fuel tap is on regular or reserve.
Starts and idles great, responds to idle mixture screw changes.
Will cruise at a steady 65 to 70 just fine.
I've gone from full up to full down on the needle clip - no real difference other than a very very slight improvement at full rich.
Slide has been drilled for a few thousand miles.
Manifold screws are tight.
Petcock vacuum plug is in place and in good condition.
Air cleaner is clean.
Fuel filter is clear.
Little o-ring under the cap is in place and looks fine.
No smell of unburnt fuel.
Valve adjustment is spot on.
Plugs are only about 1K miles old.
I just can't open the throttle fast unless I go to FULL throttle. Anything less than full throttle it hesitates, catches, then craps out again.

Any ideas what to try next?
The long range plan is to find a stock air box and just put everything back to stock.

Make me an offer: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=776506

[doug s.]

looks like a good deal:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/180951937511

doug s.

[sandwash]

Originally Posted by dukegnarley

may be so, but it's not USFS approved, or so i've read.

I have always seen the the Ranger personal use a stick to test.If it goes in so far and does not stop,more than likey you get a ticket.