the DR650 thread

[Rob.G]

I found the park position the same way as many, but fortunately it was before my battery died. 'Course I also had an LED taillight too. Now I'm very careful not to hit that position.

FWIW, my 2010 KLX250S and 2001 Yamaha FZ1 both do NOT have those positions on the ignition, which is nice.

On another interesting note... now that my regulator and stator are working properly, my Battery Bug is reporting my battery health at 75%, which is a huge step up from the 26% it had been at prior.

Rob

[TinkerinWstuff]

I could clarify; this was a 7way round trailer connection with the accessory lead that's always hot regardless of ignition position.

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff

I could clarify; this was a 7way round trailer connection with the accessory lead that's always hot regardless of ignition position.

This gives me an idea. Buy a 7-pin round connector and a 6' heavy-duty wire coming from the accessory lead (and one more from ground) with heavy-duty alligator clips on the ends (or a battery tender lead if you have one of those installed). Carry it with you as an emergency jumpstart cable. LOTS of trucks out there will have those connectors and would be a great way to get a boost.

Only downside is the 7-pin connector is kinda big.

Rob

[TinkerinWstuff]

I doubt you can crank the bike with it connected to the trailer connector without blowing the fuse in the truck. The 14 ga wire on the battery tender and PowerPoint setup worked for trickle charging. After 30 minutes, the stone dead battery had enough juice to turn over 2 revolutions before clicking the solenoid. That was after I had unplugged the tail and headlight.

After 20 more minutes on the trailer hitch it was able to turn over fast enough to fire and stay running. The bike is a pretty easy starter.

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff

I doubt you can crank the bike with it connected to the trailer connector without blowing the fuse in the truck. The 14 ga wire on the battery tender and PowerPoint setup worked for trickle charging. After 30 minutes, the stone dead battery had enough juice to turn over 2 revolutions before clicking the solenoid. That was after I had unplugged the tail and headlight.

After 20 more minutes on the trailer hitch it was able to turn over fast enough to fire and stay running. The bike is a pretty easy starter.

Good point. It'd have to be a patience thing.

I've also considered carrying a battery tender with me as a backup too. Even though it's AC-only, odds are you could find somebody with a generator, or a business or something to plug into. If you're in BFE, then, well, it's not gonna work. :)

Sure would be nice if the damn thing had a kickstart backup.

Rob

[sandwash]

Originally Posted by Rob.G

I found the park position the same way as many, but fortunately it was before my battery died. 'Course I also had an LED taillight too. Now I'm very careful not to hit that position.

Well said,I understand "stuff happens",just don't dummy up.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by Rob.G

FWIW, my 2010 KLX250S and 2001 Yamaha FZ1 both do NOT have those positions on the ignition, which is nice

Both of our BMWs, the F800 and 650GS have an accessory position, the same as the Suzuki.

But the intelligent chargers we bought came with pigtailed modular plugs which we carry on the bikes as booster cables. Caution - if you do this, don't assume the colour coded cable ends will be right when you connect to a battery or donor vehicle!

If you are connecting this booster cable through a modular plug on your own bike to start it, the normal connections are that the female will be the hot side so connect the pigtails to the other bike accordingly.

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff

I have a battery tender two prong plug on my battery. I have a PowerPoint plug with matching two prong plug. Conveniently the back of the PowerPoint had spade connectors with rubber insulators. The rubber was able to be stretched to fit over and hold the spades against the spade type connectors in the trailer wiring receptacle on the truck.

You are lucky that his trailer wires were hot. Mine and almost any I have had before are dead without the key being in the on position.

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff

I could clarify; this was a 7way round trailer connection with the accessory lead that's always hot regardless of ignition position.

AHHHHH, I should have read a bit farther.

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by Rob.G

This gives me an idea. Buy a 7-pin round connector and a 6' heavy-duty wire coming from the accessory lead (and one more from ground) with heavy-duty alligator clips on the ends (or a battery tender lead if you have one of those installed). Carry it with you as an emergency jumpstart cable. LOTS of trucks out there will have those connectors and would be a great way to get a boost.

Only downside is the 7-pin connector is kinda big.

Rob

Aerostich makes a small set of jumpers for bikes. I carry them in my front fender pack with my 21" tube.

[nsrrider]

Finally got out with a couple KLR buddies for my (and theirs) 1st dual sport ride. We did about 150 miles with about half of it consisting of pretty rough jeep trails. All of us are long time street riders and I ride a Berg 390 off road. I also got to ride the 05 KLR for a bit on the trails. The 1st thing I noticed is that the suspension on my 2012 DR is hopelessly soft. Also, the front brake sucks. But despite riding with hard Pelican cases mounted, my DR was way more dirt worthy than the KLR's. It's hard to describe a 350 Lb dirt bike "nimble" but it actually is, comparatively speaking. All three bikes have aftermarket seats and I found the bikes pretty equal as far as comfort. MPG on the three seems to be pretty even also. I place some value on the air cooled simplicity of the DR. With the full FMF and TM40 the bike felt like it had more/better throttle response and power than the KLR. The KLR comes with a good size tank which is nice....I'm still waiting for my 5.3 Gal tank. The brakes on the KLR sucked as well. The KLR also has better, more modern instrumentation......but I think my yet to mounted Trailtech voyager will negate that advantage. Both great bikes with extensive aftermarket support. All in all I was pretty pleased with my decision to buy a DR as opposed to the venerable KLR.

[ChromeSux]

I just listed a Sargent seat for sale in the FM.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=821286

[Steve B]

Due to health reasons I am sending my DR650 on to more compatible home. After pelvic cancer and a new hip the bike is to big and powerful for me to handle. On the positive I still have the DR350. I also have the privilege of knowing that I built this bike.

Bike is listed on FM http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post19463084
it was and is my dream bike and will do someone very well.



Thanks

Steve B

[rowie]

If anyone is looking for DR750/DR800 front sprockets, this Ebay seller in Michigan has quite a few listed.

http://stores.ebay.com/Motorcycle-Pa...sid=1067012968

Most are for 520 chain, but there are some for 525 chain. 15t only as well.

For those that don't know what the difference is, the 750/800 sprockets are 10mm wide at the spline, vs 7mm wide for a 650 sprocket. The wider boss makes it less prone to wobbling around and wearing the shaft spline. Just test fit it on my bike and there is about 20 thou clearance from the inside of the retainer plate groove and the face of the sprocket.

Cheers,
David.

[GaThumper]

Originally Posted by rowie

If anyone is looking for DR750/DR800 front sprockets, this Ebay seller in Michigan has quite a few listed.

http://stores.ebay.com/Motorcycle-Pa...sid=1067012968

Most are for 520 chain, but there are some for 525 chain. 15t only as well.

For those that don't know what the difference is, the 750/800 sprockets are 10mm wide at the spline, vs 7mm wide for a 650 sprocket. The wider boss makes it less prone to wobbling around and wearing the shaft spline. Just test fit it on my bike and there is about 20 thou clearance from the inside of the retainer plate groove and the face of the sprocket.

Cheers,
David.

Thanks for the heads up on the sprockets. I had read something about them along here somewhere, but it didn't really sink in. Your explanation of the difference combined with a link to the Ebay seller just cost me $20! Figured I'd pick up one of the 525s and check it out. As long as the alignment is correct on my 650SE it sure seems like a good idea. I'm running a 14t with my stock rear sprocket and chain now, but when I replace them it will be with a 15 front and a larger rear, so this will be the front for that combo. Thank You!