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Old 09-04-2012, 04:58 AM   #68761
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meter Man View Post
First oil change with a magnetic drain plug.

Does this like normal wear for a DR with 15,500 miles?

I don't get anywhere near that much on mine but I change my oil every 5000kms. Then again only started using a magnetic plug when the bike was about 30000km old. From new, there was always a fair amount of crap in the drain pan but I couldn't tell if it was metallic or not -it probably was. It is likely also that when new the engine will shed more metallic shards as it beds in and I would imagine that would settle down after some miles under the belt.

At least its better on your drain plug than being recycled through the engine or clogging the filter
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:41 AM   #68762
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I like the 16-42 combo for the highway too, very mellow.
Since my bike serves almost entirely as a commuting machine these days, I'm probably going to just drop the $20 and get the 16t front. Did you notice any appreciable difference in fuel economy when you made the change, or was it just smoother highway cruising? Also, I've noticed that my bike is really having a hard time maintaining highway speeds above 75-80mph. If I'm on anything other than flat road, I have to keep the throttle all the way open just to maintain 80, and I'm worried that gearing it up would exacerbate that problem. Does it feel at all down on power now that you've made the change?
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:56 AM   #68763
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Since my bike serves almost entirely as a commuting machine these days, I'm probably going to just drop the $20 and get the 16t front. Did you notice any appreciable difference in fuel economy when you made the change, or was it just smoother highway cruising? Also, I've noticed that my bike is really having a hard time maintaining highway speeds above 75-80mph. If I'm on anything other than flat road, I have to keep the throttle all the way open just to maintain 80, and I'm worried that gearing it up would exacerbate that problem. Does it feel at all down on power now that you've made the change?
Really!?!? Something isn't right, then. Mine will hold any speed I want on level ground up to 90+ mph... even carrying an extra 40+ lbs of camping gear. That's running my nearly-stock 16/46 gearing, and even when I'm riding at higher elevations (4000-6000' ASL).

Rob
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:03 AM   #68764
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Agreed - A DR650 Should hold 80MPH easily.

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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Really!?!? Something isn't right, then. Mine will hold any speed I want on level ground up to 90+ mph... even carrying an extra 40+ lbs of camping gear. That's running my nearly-stock 16/46 gearing, and even when I'm riding at higher elevations (4000-6000' ASL).

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Old 09-04-2012, 08:09 AM   #68765
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Agreed as well, your top speed should be around 90. Check valves and carbs. Makes sure they are clean and adjusted. Also, check to make sure your throttle is adjusted correctly.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:17 AM   #68766
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Really!?!? Something isn't right, then. Mine will hold any speed I want on level ground up to 90+ mph... even carrying an extra 40+ lbs of camping gear. That's running my nearly-stock 16/46 gearing, and even when I'm riding at higher elevations (4000-6000' ASL).

Rob
I'm in Albuquerque, so approximately 5000' ASL. I always assumed it was my weight. With all my gear on, I'm pushing 250lbs. I've been meaning to tear my carb apart and clean it for a while now, so I should probably move that to the top of my to-do list. Not sure if that would explain my gas mileage as well, but that's generally been low 40's to high 30's.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:36 AM   #68767
TinkerinWstuff
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83mph was my top speed (actual, not indicated), loaded down and WFO at 6-7000ft. That was completely stock. That was also racing handlebar to handlebar with another bone stock DR650.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:04 AM   #68768
Munzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOCKEYSTOP View Post
Who makes or where can I get short clutch and break leavers for my 2007 DR650?
Apparently no one. But I've read you can swap over DRZ-400 clutch mount and master cylinder, which will give you access to DRZ shorty levers. I've been looking into doing this just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:16 PM   #68769
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yeah it's 660cc here in OZ too but with the addition of less than 150kw/tonne. For example a CBR600 is not LAMS approved.
But the person I replied to mentioned a Vulcan 1700 loaner being lams approved?
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:29 PM   #68770
planemanx15
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How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:40 PM   #68771
MeterPig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
Good point. I imagine an egineer type would be able to figure out the real top speed with the given HP/gearing available.

DR650's are like the SUV's of the car world with a Pinto engine.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:49 PM   #68772
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I've had my DR 350 up to a GPS verified 90mph. My 650 is obviously faster.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:56 PM   #68773
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munzo View Post
Apparently no one. But I've read you can swap over DRZ-400 clutch mount and master cylinder, which will give you access to DRZ shorty levers. I've been looking into doing this just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
I have a Honda CR (from an XR400) perch and lever on my DR. I use one of those adapter plates on the bar mount so i retain a place to screw in my left mirror (a Double Take mirror). You can purchase any number of upgrade clutch mounts as the end of the DR clutch cable is a universal size.

like this but in alum:
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&c...85&tx=37&ty=41

My CR clutch perch has the long CR lever and one to think about is a shorty lever has to pass around the turn signal control box. It's kinda bulky, but the CR lever (like the stock one) fits around it. A shorty lever might end up hitting it and you don't get full lever pull. My setup pulls all the way back to the grip like stock.

You can get ones like this http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Lever-Assembly
or http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ch-%2526-Lever but most of these aftermarket ones now use a bolt system that doesn't allow for the mirror adapter plate.
Plenty of xr400 guys will give you their stock ones.

As for clutch end room i have zero issues with the longer CR levers plus i use pro-taper mid-bars and maier atv guards as they fit better on atv bars and go outwards for clutch room. With these bars and Procycle peg lower kits it's a ton of room to stand on the bike w/o hunching over to grab the bars. You can see i have my grips mounted inboards (i do this because i like it narrower but if i cut the bars the guards don't fit as well. they don't have a pivot point like some do) but even if they were flush the maier atv guards provide clutch lever room. This is my 3rd bike with protaper atv-mid bars and i would not use any other bar for total package comfort in all riding positions.

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Old 09-04-2012, 01:59 PM   #68774
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
panniers are the biggest issue for you. they are an aerodynamic brick.
carb mods, better exhaust and stock gearing you can get over 100 mph.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:59 PM   #68775
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Good info Bill. Thanks.
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