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Old 09-04-2012, 12:16 PM   #68761
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yeah it's 660cc here in OZ too but with the addition of less than 150kw/tonne. For example a CBR600 is not LAMS approved.
But the person I replied to mentioned a Vulcan 1700 loaner being lams approved?
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:29 PM   #68762
planemanx15
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How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:40 PM   #68763
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
Good point. I imagine an egineer type would be able to figure out the real top speed with the given HP/gearing available.

DR650's are like the SUV's of the car world with a Pinto engine.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:49 PM   #68764
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I've had my DR 350 up to a GPS verified 90mph. My 650 is obviously faster.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:56 PM   #68765
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Originally Posted by Munzo View Post
Apparently no one. But I've read you can swap over DRZ-400 clutch mount and master cylinder, which will give you access to DRZ shorty levers. I've been looking into doing this just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
I have a Honda CR (from an XR400) perch and lever on my DR. I use one of those adapter plates on the bar mount so i retain a place to screw in my left mirror (a Double Take mirror). You can purchase any number of upgrade clutch mounts as the end of the DR clutch cable is a universal size.

like this but in alum:
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&c...85&tx=37&ty=41

My CR clutch perch has the long CR lever and one to think about is a shorty lever has to pass around the turn signal control box. It's kinda bulky, but the CR lever (like the stock one) fits around it. A shorty lever might end up hitting it and you don't get full lever pull. My setup pulls all the way back to the grip like stock.

You can get ones like this http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Lever-Assembly
or http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ch-%2526-Lever but most of these aftermarket ones now use a bolt system that doesn't allow for the mirror adapter plate.
Plenty of xr400 guys will give you their stock ones.

As for clutch end room i have zero issues with the longer CR levers plus i use pro-taper mid-bars and maier atv guards as they fit better on atv bars and go outwards for clutch room. With these bars and Procycle peg lower kits it's a ton of room to stand on the bike w/o hunching over to grab the bars. You can see i have my grips mounted inboards (i do this because i like it narrower but if i cut the bars the guards don't fit as well. they don't have a pivot point like some do) but even if they were flush the maier atv guards provide clutch lever room. This is my 3rd bike with protaper atv-mid bars and i would not use any other bar for total package comfort in all riding positions.

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Old 09-04-2012, 01:59 PM   #68766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
panniers are the biggest issue for you. they are an aerodynamic brick.
carb mods, better exhaust and stock gearing you can get over 100 mph.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:59 PM   #68767
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Good info Bill. Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:04 PM   #68768
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Well, I am 99 percent sure the FMF Q is going on the flea market and the stocker is going back on. I would like to pick up a gixxer pipe, but the 04f0 is over the top unobtaniable and maybe one will pop up this winter for an ok price. I saw a NOS one go for $200 plus shipping. That plus a mid pipe makes it a 400 buck system and if one gets a head pipe-that's another $125....all for 4 HP, 8 less lbs and more noise. Cool, but not over the top need. If it pops up cheap, I will get it.

The FMF is a great pipe, but to my still very good working ears, it's loud to me. To someone who has hearing loss, not loud. I generally ride with the highest DB rated ear plugs and it still bugs me. Great pipe, great response, just too loud-and I just repacked it. Which by the way, FMF so smartly glued the pipe and outer casing together. Really?
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:06 PM   #68769
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When I originally did my re-jetting, 32,000 miles ago, I did before and after testing. On an open stretch of highway I passed a landmark at a steady speed of 60 mph indicated in 5th gear, I then "floored it". Before re-jetting at the second landmark (not sure of the distance between) I hit 100 mph indicated (probably 94 actual) and was only slightly still accelerating. After re-jetting, slide drilled, side of air box removed, K&N air filter, FMF Q-1 over the same course the next morning I hit 110 indicated (Actual probably 103) and the bike was still accelerating. Last year I testing the speedo against GPS and found the speedo overstated by about 6% at 100 mph indicated. After re-jetting my MPG went from an average 48 to 50 to an average of 45 to 47.


Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:13 PM   #68770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Well, I am 99 percent sure the FMF Q is going on the flea market and the stocker is going back on. I would like to pick up a gixxer pipe, but the 04f0 is over the top unobtaniable and maybe one will pop up this winter for an ok price. I saw a NOS one go for $200 plus shipping. That plus a mid pipe makes it a 400 buck system and if one gets a head pipe-that's another $125....all for 4 HP, 8 less lbs and more noise. Cool, but not over the top need. If it pops up cheap, I will get it.

The FMF is a great pipe, but to my still very good working ears, it's loud to me. To someone who has hearing loss, not loud. I generally ride with the highest DB rated ear plugs and it still bugs me. Great pipe, great response, just too loud-and I just repacked it. Which by the way, FMF so smartly glued the pipe and outer casing together. Really?
get the busa pipe that jesse is now fitting up for instead:
http://www.kientech.com/DR650GSXRExaust.htm
those are easy to find and cheap

one of the biggest advantages to going this way is you'll have a pipe that does not need to be repacked.
you'll spend about the same as aftermarket pipe and loose the weight and gain hp but not having to repack is what appeals to most. it looks like stock and even sounds that way at idle/low speed.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:15 PM   #68771
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Since my bike serves almost entirely as a commuting machine these days, I'm probably going to just drop the $20 and get the 16t front. Did you notice any appreciable difference in fuel economy when you made the change, or was it just smoother highway cruising? Also, I've noticed that my bike is really having a hard time maintaining highway speeds above 75-80mph. If I'm on anything other than flat road, I have to keep the throttle all the way open just to maintain 80, and I'm worried that gearing it up would exacerbate that problem. Does it feel at all down on power now that you've made the change?
No difference in fuel mileage, maybe even less than stock; a surprise to me. And I don't use 5th below 60mph. It's a little sluggish off a stop and traffic jams suck with the 16t. If I wanted top speed, I'd buy another FJR (46 mpg). Sometimes the DR pulls hard through 80 (6000 ft), other times 80 was all it had. All mph are GPS not speedo, so my 80 is 87-ish speedo. But I don't like it up there anyway, it's a dual sport. Going up Mt Vernon Canyon 80 isn't going to happen, I'm surprised when I can ride for a mile or two, WFO.

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I'm in Albuquerque, so approximately 5000' ASL. I always assumed it was my weight. With all my gear on, I'm pushing 250lbs. I've been meaning to tear my carb apart and clean it for a while now, so I should probably move that to the top of my to-do list. Not sure if that would explain my gas mileage as well, but that's generally been low 40's to high 30's.
250, ready to ride isn't all that heavy. Your mileage is worse than mine and we're close to the same altitude. On a bad day mine may drop to 55mpg. You said that it runs better with the airfilter off, hmmmmm. Has anyone ever been in the carb, or is it stock? The air filter is old enough that it may be deteriorating, although my 2004 is still ok. Oops, I see you're running a K&N.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:16 PM   #68772
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The last time I looked, the busa pipe was still spendy on Ebay and mid pipe is $224. The whole FMF slip on and mid pipe can be found for $292 on ebay. So, the can costs FMF $50 and the mid pipe $250? Maybe FMF should make mid pipes and a killing. I find the mid pipes to be pricey at $224. And the busa can sticks out past the rear fender-how is that useful?
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:21 PM   #68773
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
The last time I looked, the busa pipe was still spendy on Ebay and mid pipe is $224. The whole FMF slip on and mid pipe can be found for $292 on ebay. So, the can costs FMF $50 and the mid pipe $250? Maybe FMF should make mid pipes and a killing. I find the mid pipes to be pricey at $224. And the busa can sticks out past the rear fender-how is that useful?
jesse mounts the busa pipe in farther and thus it's only less then 1/2" out past the 00-01 gsxr1000 pipe. you're thinking of the 2003+ on gsxr1000 pipe.

as for jesse's price that includes a designed & welded mid-pipe/adapter plate, plus his designed mount adapter, bolts and gaskets not just a generic mid-pipe, so don't be a dork.

even if the fmf and gsxr/busa pipe cost the same, those who choose the later want a pipe that does not repacking.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #68774
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
as for jesse's price that includes a designed & welded mid-pipe/adapter plate, plus his designed mount adapter, bolts and gaskets not just a generic mid-pipe...
I know you are a big supporter of Jesse's work so I'll look past the other part. The quality is nice-but it's just a mid pipe. I wonder if FMF would sell just their mid pipe...hmmm.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #68775
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
panniers are the biggest issue for you. they are an aerodynamic brick.
carb mods, better exhaust and stock gearing you can get over 100 mph.
A pair of small panniers on my 350 and fuel economy went from 160-190km per tank to 140. This was with 80-90kph smooth road riding, no stop signs or give ways. I was expecting 190-230km on the tank...
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