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Old 09-04-2012, 07:58 PM   #68776
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Can somebody with the TCI windsheild bracket take a measurement for me? I would like to know the distance between the holes. From top to bottom and from left to right. TIA
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:25 PM   #68777
Paddle007
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FWIW the banjo bolt is slower to engage. No biggie just it takes a little pressure to close the contacts. If I want to wake up a cage behind me without slowing my ride, I gently apply the rear brake lever.

A couple of pretrip pics. Me and weaVe head for the Ouray this weekend. I hope I return looking better than my DR will. She's clean and ready to go. I am so tired of the high humidity, high temps and lastly tropical BS as Isaac. 10,000 feet sounds great. The altitude will kick my 56 year old butt and it will be worth every breath.

And many thanks to all whom have contributed to this thread. It has taught me loads. It has also cost me loads but my pig is great. She always puts a smile on my face.


















. .

Paddle007 screwed with this post 09-04-2012 at 08:42 PM
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:20 PM   #68778
TeamEndo
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Location: Pacific Northwest
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New DR650SE

Well, new to me anyway. After much deliberation and trying both generations of KLR's I decided to go the DR route. I like how much more nimble and flickable it feels. Just picked up an '05, blue with 2300 miles on the clock. Looks mint except for the fact that the previous owner dropped it on his trailer and slightly bent the bars. Came with a gel seat plus the stocker and an aftermarket tail rack.

Looking forward to some adventures with the big girl! Time to start modding...

Endo
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:58 PM   #68779
LGDH
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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GSXR Pipes

Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Well, I am 99 percent sure the FMF Q is going on the flea market and the stocker is going back on. I would like to pick up a gixxer pipe, but the 04f0 is over the top unobtaniable and maybe one will pop up this winter for an ok price. I saw a NOS one go for $200 plus shipping. That plus a mid pipe makes it a 400 buck system and if one gets a head pipe-that's another $125....all for 4 HP, 8 less lbs and more noise. Cool, but not over the top need. If it pops up cheap, I will get it.

The FMF is a great pipe, but to my still very good working ears, it's loud to me. To someone who has hearing loss, not loud. I generally ride with the highest DB rated ear plugs and it still bugs me. Great pipe, great response, just too loud-and I just repacked it. Which by the way, FMF so smartly glued the pipe and outer casing together. Really?
OK you blokes, you really should have a look on Ebay UK, they have plenty and are reaasonably priced, I bought 3 and they all arrived in Aus in less than 10 days, emailed a few to make sure it was what I wanted and all of them were very helpfull.

I think the most expensive was $150 for a brand new one including freight, and most times the freight was as much as the can, search GSXR 1000 exhaust K1 as a starting point.

I hope this is of help to all.

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Old 09-04-2012, 10:37 PM   #68780
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
I am wondering what the ideal engine temp is to set idle speed? I know that folks say when the engine is fully warmed up, but there is no real constant temp for my DR when "warmed up". My vapor indicates around 310 when buzzing along, but quickly warms up to 340 when sitting at a light and even higher when in stop and go traffic in the summer. The problem is that RPM is greatly affected by engine temperature. So, if I set the RPM to approximately 1,600 at an engine temp of 310 (my warmed up operating temp), it can jump as high as 1,900 when sitting at a light in the summer heat.
I can never remember which it is...
A lean condition gets worse when warmed up and a rich condition leans off?
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:47 PM   #68781
Garak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
I imagine an engineer type would be able to figure out the real top speed with the given HP/gearing available.
I think I would need the drag coefficient as well to calculate that, although I am a mere mortal and not yet a fully fledged engineer.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:54 PM   #68782
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garak View Post
I think I would need the drag coefficient as well to calculate that, although I am a mere mortal and not yet a fully fledged engineer.
plus frontal area, CdA is wha't needed.

Can have low drag, high frontal area and visa versa for same top speed. It is the combination that matters in the end, + hp and friction. Weight/mass has little to do with it, mostly only effecting rolling friction, and acceleration, so if heavy, there may not be enouigh space to get to top speed, even though the hp is adequate.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:01 PM   #68783
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Lams

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
But the person I replied to mentioned a Vulcan 1700 loaner being lams approved?
Yeah and I know of a Honda dealer in the NT that sold a CBR600 to a learner without even checking his licence. Poor Guy, once he realised that the bike he had bought wasn't LAMS approved was then stuck with it and chose to take the risk for next 18 months.

I can't see how a vulcan 1700 could be LAMS approved. It's over 660cc for a start.

Here below is the NZ ruling from NZ transport agency. Its actually better defined than QLD Australia beacuse our makes no mention that the weight is determined and accounts for bike plus rider and gear,


http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/gett...torcycles.html
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:15 PM   #68784
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yeah and I know of a Honda dealer in the NT that sold a CBR600 to a learner without even checking his licence. Poor Guy, once he realised that the bike he had bought wasn't LAMS approved was then stuck with it and chose to take the risk for next 18 months.

I can't see how a vulcan 1700 could be LAMS approved. It's over 660cc for a start.

Here below is the NZ ruling from NZ transport agency. Its actually better defined than QLD Australia beacuse our makes no mention that the weight is determined and accounts for bike plus rider and gear,


http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/gett...torcycles.html
Its approved in the ACT, but not NSW, and not sure elsewhere in Oz.
http://www.rego.act.gov.au/assets/PD...cycles.pdf.pdf

http://www.rego.act.gov.au/licensing...ycrestrict.htm
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/licensing/...iceriders.html

Interestingly, there has never been any statistical evidence to back up the assumption that high power, power/weight and inexperience on mcs means more prangs. Just something the Govt did because they felt they had to do something. The ACT was the last jurisdiction to bring in LAMs, and only under the COAG agreement to harmonise road rules across Oz, and the threat of no grant monies for roads and stuff, and they still aren't harmonised anyway. And on it goes........
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:16 PM   #68785
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So here's an odd problem for you. I had done some fairly serious dirt riding this past weekend, and when I was riding to work the next day, I noticed that the bike was feeling a little.."rough." I opened the airbox, and saw that my K&N filter was completely caked in dust and grime. I haven't cleaned it since I bought the bike 4000 miles ago, so I went over to Cyclegear and bought the K&N air filter recharge kit (http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product...kit/web1003711). I followed the instructions to the letter, but when I put the filter back in the bike and put the airbox cover back on, the bike won't even idle. I can hold the throttle open a bit and get it to stay running, but as soon as I close the throttle, it gurgles a few times and dies. Taking off the airbox cover lets it idle low, but continuously, and taking the filter off entirely brings it right back to its old self again. Is there something besides what K&N wrote in the instructions that I should have looked out for, or should I just break down and spend the $25 on the Uni filter like everyone else?
I don't like K&N, they flow more air for a reason: they also flow more dirt. On a street bike that's less of a problem, but in the dust, it isn't ok to me. Flow rates and micron sizes (dirt) passed during testing are available online, it isn't my imagination. Another problem with K&N is the ^^^^^^^ pointing up. All those valleys are collecting dirt, sifting it into your engine. Even if the top of my filter is completely plugged, the bottom has very little dirt collected; it just shakes off.

I'd buy the Uni Filter or anything else made out of foam. I'm at 35,902 with my stock foam filter.

And I'm not all that anal about keeping things clean. Here's my secondary filter:



What condition is your chain in?

The real question is: why did it go to doodoo when you serviced the K&N?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:33 PM   #68786
MeterPig
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Location: Parker, Colorado...
Oddometer: 17,090
TIme for some stealthy lights and something I can run on the trail without concern for busting off.

Step 1. Procure cheapy lights on fleabay.


Step 2. Hold up to fairing for look test. Oh yeah, stealthy and barely (not) legal.


Step 3. Decide on hole spot. This is critical for coolness factor.


Step 4: Drill hole and put wires through for testing. Oh yeah, sexy.


Step 5: Wire up both sides for full test. Bitchin.


Step 6: Admire.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:26 AM   #68787
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
A couple of pretrip pics. Me and weaVe head for the Ouray this weekend. I hope I return looking better than my DR will. She's clean and ready to go. I am so tired of the high humidity, high temps and lastly tropical BS as Isaac. 10,000 feet sounds great. The altitude will kick my 56 year old butt and it will be worth every breath.
56, so yer just a puppy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
And many thanks to all whom have contributed to this thread. It has taught me loads. It has also cost me loads but my pig is great. She always puts a smile on my face.
Nicely done, very nicely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I can never remember which it is...
Me neither, so if I get the next part wrong, don't anyone be afraid to speak up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
A lean condition gets worse when warmed up and a rich condition leans off?
If it starts cold, without the choke, it's too rich (idle fuel screw); True. For the masses, keep your hand off the throttle tube when cold and starting with the choke or you'll bypass the choke circuit in the stock BST; True. So, if it runs good cold, it's too rich, too. Maybe. If it runs better warm, you'll get better mileage.......maybe.

For reference: cold is after sitting over night, but still over 60F. I take off with the choke on, no warm up, I go as soon as the bike will take throttle (by the time the garage door closes). But I ride gently for the first few miles. The bike will run without choke by mile one; although idling at a light the rpm is pretty low (1250-1300). After the initial morning choke, I don't usually have to choke again. But on occasion, a chilly breeze or lunch, it will take too long to fire. I'll panic, remember the rules, choke, and away we go. This always happens when I'm riding with others; solo, my stops are only long enough for gas, drinks and a snack or pissin'.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:29 AM   #68788
Tyrepower
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Location: Perth WA
Oddometer: 130
Quote:
Originally Posted by LGDH View Post
OK you blokes, you really should have a look on Ebay UK, they have plenty and are reaasonably priced, I bought 3 and they all arrived in Aus in less than 10 days, emailed a few to make sure it was what I wanted and all of them were very helpfull.

I think the most expensive was $150 for a brand new one including freight, and most times the freight was as much as the can, search GSXR 1000 exhaust K1 as a starting point.

I hope this is of help to all.

LGDH
If the GSXR 1000 pipes are to hard to find, or to expensive in the US. look outside your shores!. For a country that can send a man to the moon and back.(RIP Commander Armstrong) this should not be to difficult. I got mine from Ebay UK as well. Landed in Australia for under $100.00.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:48 AM   #68789
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
If the GSXR 1000 pipes are to hard to find, or to expensive in the US. look outside your shores!. For a country that can send a man to the moon and back.(RIP Commander Armstrong) this should not be to difficult. I got mine from Ebay UK as well. Landed in Australia for under $100.00.
for those having difficulty finding the 40F0, give the 24F0 a look; a lot easier to find, and Kientech sells the mid pipe that snugs it up under the side panel... I tried them back to back, posted the following on another forum just last night:

just finished swapping the 24F0 for the 40FO; one immediate difference I see is that the 24 was a little longer, but fit a lot closer to the frame than the 40FO; evidence of this is that I had moved my license plate up under my fender, and had to trim a little off of the side to clear the Busa can, while the GSXR can clear the side of the plate by at least an inch. This could possibly explain why there is so little difference in appearance when the two cans are mounted up...

and...

Rode my bike with both cans installed last night, and the difference is minimal; the 24 is a bit quieter, no popping on decel, seems more "refined", the 40 a bit louder, seems to flow more air when standing behind the bike. I don't know if it's just my imagination, but the 40 with the stock header seemed to decel more quickly when I chopped the throttle... There was no discernible difference between the two under hard acceleration or in appearance when mounted up.

as to which one I'll keep, it was so close performance-wise that it all boils down to which was the last one I mounted on the bike. The stock header does look a little puny, even painted black, compared to the fat FMF, but the "titanium" stamped on the 40 is pretty stinking cool as well; I would be happy with either one long term.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:11 AM   #68790
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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I tried a search but the results when you use the word oil is just overwhelming.

I did an oil and filter change. Added the 2300cc's of oil (that's the number cast into the case at the fill hole) and now the sight glass is completely full of oil. This is after riding 80 miles. Anyone else have this happen? I can't remember this happening before and I've changed oil 2 times a year (at least) for 7 years on this bike.
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