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Old 09-04-2012, 10:15 PM   #68776
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yeah and I know of a Honda dealer in the NT that sold a CBR600 to a learner without even checking his licence. Poor Guy, once he realised that the bike he had bought wasn't LAMS approved was then stuck with it and chose to take the risk for next 18 months.

I can't see how a vulcan 1700 could be LAMS approved. It's over 660cc for a start.

Here below is the NZ ruling from NZ transport agency. Its actually better defined than QLD Australia beacuse our makes no mention that the weight is determined and accounts for bike plus rider and gear,


http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/gett...torcycles.html
Its approved in the ACT, but not NSW, and not sure elsewhere in Oz.
http://www.rego.act.gov.au/assets/PD...cycles.pdf.pdf

http://www.rego.act.gov.au/licensing...ycrestrict.htm
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/licensing/...iceriders.html

Interestingly, there has never been any statistical evidence to back up the assumption that high power, power/weight and inexperience on mcs means more prangs. Just something the Govt did because they felt they had to do something. The ACT was the last jurisdiction to bring in LAMs, and only under the COAG agreement to harmonise road rules across Oz, and the threat of no grant monies for roads and stuff, and they still aren't harmonised anyway. And on it goes........
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:16 PM   #68777
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So here's an odd problem for you. I had done some fairly serious dirt riding this past weekend, and when I was riding to work the next day, I noticed that the bike was feeling a little.."rough." I opened the airbox, and saw that my K&N filter was completely caked in dust and grime. I haven't cleaned it since I bought the bike 4000 miles ago, so I went over to Cyclegear and bought the K&N air filter recharge kit (http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product...kit/web1003711). I followed the instructions to the letter, but when I put the filter back in the bike and put the airbox cover back on, the bike won't even idle. I can hold the throttle open a bit and get it to stay running, but as soon as I close the throttle, it gurgles a few times and dies. Taking off the airbox cover lets it idle low, but continuously, and taking the filter off entirely brings it right back to its old self again. Is there something besides what K&N wrote in the instructions that I should have looked out for, or should I just break down and spend the $25 on the Uni filter like everyone else?
I don't like K&N, they flow more air for a reason: they also flow more dirt. On a street bike that's less of a problem, but in the dust, it isn't ok to me. Flow rates and micron sizes (dirt) passed during testing are available online, it isn't my imagination. Another problem with K&N is the ^^^^^^^ pointing up. All those valleys are collecting dirt, sifting it into your engine. Even if the top of my filter is completely plugged, the bottom has very little dirt collected; it just shakes off.

I'd buy the Uni Filter or anything else made out of foam. I'm at 35,902 with my stock foam filter.

And I'm not all that anal about keeping things clean. Here's my secondary filter:



What condition is your chain in?

The real question is: why did it go to doodoo when you serviced the K&N?
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:33 PM   #68778
MeterPig
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TIme for some stealthy lights and something I can run on the trail without concern for busting off.

Step 1. Procure cheapy lights on fleabay.


Step 2. Hold up to fairing for look test. Oh yeah, stealthy and barely (not) legal.


Step 3. Decide on hole spot. This is critical for coolness factor.


Step 4: Drill hole and put wires through for testing. Oh yeah, sexy.


Step 5: Wire up both sides for full test. Bitchin.


Step 6: Admire.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:26 PM   #68779
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
A couple of pretrip pics. Me and weaVe head for the Ouray this weekend. I hope I return looking better than my DR will. She's clean and ready to go. I am so tired of the high humidity, high temps and lastly tropical BS as Isaac. 10,000 feet sounds great. The altitude will kick my 56 year old butt and it will be worth every breath.
56, so yer just a puppy?

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Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
And many thanks to all whom have contributed to this thread. It has taught me loads. It has also cost me loads but my pig is great. She always puts a smile on my face.
Nicely done, very nicely.

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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I can never remember which it is...
Me neither, so if I get the next part wrong, don't anyone be afraid to speak up.

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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
A lean condition gets worse when warmed up and a rich condition leans off?
If it starts cold, without the choke, it's too rich (idle fuel screw); True. For the masses, keep your hand off the throttle tube when cold and starting with the choke or you'll bypass the choke circuit in the stock BST; True. So, if it runs good cold, it's too rich, too. Maybe. If it runs better warm, you'll get better mileage.......maybe.

For reference: cold is after sitting over night, but still over 60F. I take off with the choke on, no warm up, I go as soon as the bike will take throttle (by the time the garage door closes). But I ride gently for the first few miles. The bike will run without choke by mile one; although idling at a light the rpm is pretty low (1250-1300). After the initial morning choke, I don't usually have to choke again. But on occasion, a chilly breeze or lunch, it will take too long to fire. I'll panic, remember the rules, choke, and away we go. This always happens when I'm riding with others; solo, my stops are only long enough for gas, drinks and a snack or pissin'.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:29 AM   #68780
Tyrepower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGDH View Post
OK you blokes, you really should have a look on Ebay UK, they have plenty and are reaasonably priced, I bought 3 and they all arrived in Aus in less than 10 days, emailed a few to make sure it was what I wanted and all of them were very helpfull.

I think the most expensive was $150 for a brand new one including freight, and most times the freight was as much as the can, search GSXR 1000 exhaust K1 as a starting point.

I hope this is of help to all.

LGDH
If the GSXR 1000 pipes are to hard to find, or to expensive in the US. look outside your shores!. For a country that can send a man to the moon and back.(RIP Commander Armstrong) this should not be to difficult. I got mine from Ebay UK as well. Landed in Australia for under $100.00.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:48 AM   #68781
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
If the GSXR 1000 pipes are to hard to find, or to expensive in the US. look outside your shores!. For a country that can send a man to the moon and back.(RIP Commander Armstrong) this should not be to difficult. I got mine from Ebay UK as well. Landed in Australia for under $100.00.
for those having difficulty finding the 40F0, give the 24F0 a look; a lot easier to find, and Kientech sells the mid pipe that snugs it up under the side panel... I tried them back to back, posted the following on another forum just last night:

just finished swapping the 24F0 for the 40FO; one immediate difference I see is that the 24 was a little longer, but fit a lot closer to the frame than the 40FO; evidence of this is that I had moved my license plate up under my fender, and had to trim a little off of the side to clear the Busa can, while the GSXR can clear the side of the plate by at least an inch. This could possibly explain why there is so little difference in appearance when the two cans are mounted up...

and...

Rode my bike with both cans installed last night, and the difference is minimal; the 24 is a bit quieter, no popping on decel, seems more "refined", the 40 a bit louder, seems to flow more air when standing behind the bike. I don't know if it's just my imagination, but the 40 with the stock header seemed to decel more quickly when I chopped the throttle... There was no discernible difference between the two under hard acceleration or in appearance when mounted up.

as to which one I'll keep, it was so close performance-wise that it all boils down to which was the last one I mounted on the bike. The stock header does look a little puny, even painted black, compared to the fat FMF, but the "titanium" stamped on the 40 is pretty stinking cool as well; I would be happy with either one long term.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:11 AM   #68782
Rusty Rocket
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I tried a search but the results when you use the word oil is just overwhelming.

I did an oil and filter change. Added the 2300cc's of oil (that's the number cast into the case at the fill hole) and now the sight glass is completely full of oil. This is after riding 80 miles. Anyone else have this happen? I can't remember this happening before and I've changed oil 2 times a year (at least) for 7 years on this bike.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 09-05-2012 at 06:33 AM
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:18 AM   #68783
DaymienRules
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Finally the yz450f forks arrive today. Does anyone sell the 17 to 22mm axle spacers to use the DR front wheel? Or if I need to have have them machined, does anyone know the dimensions I could give a shop?
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:38 AM   #68784
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I tried a search but the results when you use the word oil is just overwhelming.

I did an oil and filter change. Added the 2300cc's of oil (that's the number cast into the case at the fill hole) and now the sight glass is completely full of oil. This is after riding 80 miles. Anyone else have this happen? I can't remember this happening before and I've changed oil 2 times a year (at least) for 7 years on this bike.
In spite of what it says on the case 2300cc is way too much. Just 2 liters will be just about right.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:53 AM   #68785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaymienRules View Post
Finally the yz450f forks arrive today. Does anyone sell the 17 to 22mm axle spacers to use the DR front wheel? Or if I need to have have them machined, does anyone know the dimensions I could give a shop?
It will be much simpler to get a YZ450F front wheel. You need more than axle spacers to convert the DR wheel. You will also need to somehow align the YZ caliper with the larger diameter DR brake rotor.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:35 AM   #68786
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
No difference in fuel mileage, maybe even less than stock; a surprise to me. And I don't use 5th below 60mph. It's a little sluggish off a stop and traffic jams suck with the 16t. If I wanted top speed, I'd buy another FJR (46 mpg).

250, ready to ride isn't all that heavy. Your mileage is worse than mine and we're close to the same altitude. On a bad day mine may drop to 55mpg. You said that it runs better with the airfilter off, hmmmmm. Has anyone ever been in the carb, or is it stock? The air filter is old enough that it may be deteriorating, although my 2004 is still ok. Oops, I see you're running a K&N.
I do a lot of stop and go traffic on my way home from work, so the 16t might not be the best idea on my bike. I don't often go over 75 anyways, so the stock gearing is probably acceptable. If I remember the CL ad for my bike, the PO put a dynojet kit on there, so it isn't completely stock. I do know that he cut the top off the airbox, so I'm guessing he was honest about the jet kit as well. No reason to doubt anyways.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I don't like K&N, they flow more air for a reason: they also flow more dirt. On a street bike that's less of a problem, but in the dust, it isn't ok to me. Flow rates and micron sizes (dirt) passed during testing are available online, it isn't my imagination. Another problem with K&N is the ^^^^^^^ pointing up. All those valleys are collecting dirt, sifting it into your engine. Even if the top of my filter is completely plugged, the bottom has very little dirt collected; it just shakes off.

I'd buy the Uni Filter or anything else made out of foam. I'm at 35,902 with my stock foam filter.

What condition is your chain in?

The real question is: why did it go to doodoo when you serviced the K&N?
Since I mostly ride my bike on the street, I figured the risk was acceptable. However, if the foam filters are good on the street as well, that's one more thing I don't have to worry about, and they're cheap to boot. My chain is in very good condition. It's tightened to the specs in the manual, and it hasn't even reached the "3" mark on the snail. I've been religious about cleaning and oiling it (Maxima Chain Wax) every few tanks of gas and every time after I do some offroading, so it looks close to new. I'm not sure what happened with that filter after I serviced it. I might have over oiled it or something, but after I cleaned it with that Simple Green mixture someone suggested, it ran like a champ.

On a funny side note, the bike died completely on me yesterday on my way home from work. Just cruising down the road and the throttle had no response. The bike was engine braking, however, so I pulled into a parking lot. I tried turning it over a few times, and it made the chugging startup noise, but never fired. I pulled the spark plug wires off, and we were able to verify that one of them wasn't sparking at all, though the battery died before we could test the other one. I'm going to be replacing both wires and both plugs with new ones anyways since I'm well past the 7500 miles they recommend changing them at. My question: if one of the plugs was already not firing, could that be why I've been so damn low on power lately, and would it be able to run at all with just one plug firing? Just a thought.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #68787
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Paddle007, what tank bag solution is that?
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:09 AM   #68788
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
I know you are a big supporter of Jesse's work so I'll look past the other part. The quality is nice-but it's just a mid pipe. I wonder if FMF would sell just their mid pipe...hmmm.
if we don't support Keintech's and Procycle's work, they won't be around to support us; part of the cost of anything is to cover R&D, stocking, etc, not to mention the countless hours of free advice.



the KLR forum is down the hall to the left, probably giving away free milk crates...






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Old 09-05-2012, 10:41 AM   #68789
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Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post


the KLR forum is down the hall to the left, probably giving away free milk crates...




Do you know if they have them in 2012 DR gray?
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:53 AM   #68790
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Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Do you know if they have them in 2012 DR gray?
In the Accessories catalogue; search under "krylon"...
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