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Old 09-04-2012, 03:15 PM   #68776
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munzo View Post
Apparently no one. But I've read you can swap over DRZ-400 clutch mount and master cylinder, which will give you access to DRZ shorty levers. I've been looking into doing this just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
The RMZ450 has short levers stock and both sides bolt up to the DR including the clutch cable,you loose the 'choke lever and mirror mounts.
I think the DRZ has the 11mm master cylinder like the RMZ also,smaller bore than the DR650.







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Old 09-04-2012, 03:29 PM   #68777
MeterPig
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How did you handle the sensors for the brake light?
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:36 PM   #68778
ADV8
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
How did you handle the sensors for the brake light?
Whoops,forgot that.
After that picture was taken I added a banjo bolt with the sensor.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:37 PM   #68779
MeterPig
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Ah, good info. I am thinking of adding a banjo bolt sensor anyway due to the fragility of the current setup. Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:54 PM   #68780
kbuckey
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Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Going up Mt Vernon Canyon 80 isn't going to happen, I'm surprised when I can ride for a mile or two, WFO.
My bone stock DR holds 70 pretty well in 5th up the canyon (usually taking the frontage road because 1) less traffic, 2) fewer cops 3) I'm getting off at the Lookout Mountain exit anyway) UNLESS we have one of those headwinds. One day had to downshift to 3rd to hold 55.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:57 PM   #68781
MeterPig
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I was cruising up the C470 yesterday evening and how to downshift to 4th and work to hold my head steady just for 60. The crosswinds around the speedway seem to be horrid most of the time.
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:19 PM   #68782
thetable
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Location: Western Loudoun Co, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Ah, good info. I am thinking of adding a banjo bolt sensor anyway due to the fragility of the current setup. Thanks.
I'd read from a few people that the wiring on the banjo bolt pressure sensors can be a bit fragile. I might put one of the banjo bolts in when I have to pass inspection, until then... well, my rear brake still has a switch.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:26 PM   #68783
Minsk99
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Idle Speed

I am wondering what the ideal engine temp is to set idle speed? I know that folks say when the engine is fully warmed up, but there is no real constant temp for my DR when "warmed up". My vapor indicates around 310 when buzzing along, but quickly warms up to 340 when sitting at a light and even higher when in stop and go traffic in the summer. The problem is that RPM is greatly affected by engine temperature. So, if I set the RPM to approximately 1,600 at an engine temp of 310 (my warmed up operating temp), it can jump as high as 1,900 when sitting at a light in the summer heat. My bike definitely seems to run better with the idle set at this level, but am wondering if the peaks in RPM area a problem?

On a somewhat related topic, it seems as though the DR's vacuum operated petcock needs a fair amount of air to deliver gas to the carb at idle. When I tuned out my pilot screw to 1.5 turns out, I had to decrease the throttle stop a significant amount to the point of having the butterfly almost completely closed in order to get the idle down to where RPM was 1,600 at the highest engine temps. This caused a LOT of deceleration popping that only was mitigated by opening the butterfly (enriching the pilot screw more didn't help very much at all). Anyways, I have my bike dialed in pretty sweet right now, but just checking to make sure that the idle is not too high. Any insights much appreciated.

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Old 09-04-2012, 06:31 PM   #68784
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuckey View Post
My bone stock DR holds 70 pretty well in 5th up the canyon (usually taking the frontage road because 1) less traffic, 2) fewer cops 3) I'm getting off at the Lookout Mountain exit anyway) UNLESS we have one of those headwinds. One day had to downshift to 3rd to hold 55.
BTDT

Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
I was cruising up the C470 yesterday evening and how to downshift to 4th and work to hold my head steady just for 60. The crosswinds around the speedway seem to be horrid most of the time.
Earlier this year I went out on a windy day, westbound on C470 from the mall. My tree was still standing, how bad could it be? I got bounced around like I was on an MX track; it was awesome. Apparently the DR has a pretty good rake and trail, although I was tipping left and right (a lot), I mostly stayed in my lane. What a rush, I was giggling like a little girl.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #68785
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Can somebody with the TCI windsheild bracket take a measurement for me? I would like to know the distance between the holes. From top to bottom and from left to right. TIA
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:25 PM   #68786
Paddle007
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Location: S.E. Louisiana
Oddometer: 303
FWIW the banjo bolt is slower to engage. No biggie just it takes a little pressure to close the contacts. If I want to wake up a cage behind me without slowing my ride, I gently apply the rear brake lever.

A couple of pretrip pics. Me and weaVe head for the Ouray this weekend. I hope I return looking better than my DR will. She's clean and ready to go. I am so tired of the high humidity, high temps and lastly tropical BS as Isaac. 10,000 feet sounds great. The altitude will kick my 56 year old butt and it will be worth every breath.

And many thanks to all whom have contributed to this thread. It has taught me loads. It has also cost me loads but my pig is great. She always puts a smile on my face.


















. .

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Old 09-04-2012, 08:20 PM   #68787
TeamEndo
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Oddometer: 19
New DR650SE

Well, new to me anyway. After much deliberation and trying both generations of KLR's I decided to go the DR route. I like how much more nimble and flickable it feels. Just picked up an '05, blue with 2300 miles on the clock. Looks mint except for the fact that the previous owner dropped it on his trailer and slightly bent the bars. Came with a gel seat plus the stocker and an aftermarket tail rack.

Looking forward to some adventures with the big girl! Time to start modding...

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Old 09-04-2012, 08:58 PM   #68788
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
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GSXR Pipes

Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Well, I am 99 percent sure the FMF Q is going on the flea market and the stocker is going back on. I would like to pick up a gixxer pipe, but the 04f0 is over the top unobtaniable and maybe one will pop up this winter for an ok price. I saw a NOS one go for $200 plus shipping. That plus a mid pipe makes it a 400 buck system and if one gets a head pipe-that's another $125....all for 4 HP, 8 less lbs and more noise. Cool, but not over the top need. If it pops up cheap, I will get it.

The FMF is a great pipe, but to my still very good working ears, it's loud to me. To someone who has hearing loss, not loud. I generally ride with the highest DB rated ear plugs and it still bugs me. Great pipe, great response, just too loud-and I just repacked it. Which by the way, FMF so smartly glued the pipe and outer casing together. Really?
OK you blokes, you really should have a look on Ebay UK, they have plenty and are reaasonably priced, I bought 3 and they all arrived in Aus in less than 10 days, emailed a few to make sure it was what I wanted and all of them were very helpfull.

I think the most expensive was $150 for a brand new one including freight, and most times the freight was as much as the can, search GSXR 1000 exhaust K1 as a starting point.

I hope this is of help to all.

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Old 09-04-2012, 09:37 PM   #68789
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
I am wondering what the ideal engine temp is to set idle speed? I know that folks say when the engine is fully warmed up, but there is no real constant temp for my DR when "warmed up". My vapor indicates around 310 when buzzing along, but quickly warms up to 340 when sitting at a light and even higher when in stop and go traffic in the summer. The problem is that RPM is greatly affected by engine temperature. So, if I set the RPM to approximately 1,600 at an engine temp of 310 (my warmed up operating temp), it can jump as high as 1,900 when sitting at a light in the summer heat.
I can never remember which it is...
A lean condition gets worse when warmed up and a rich condition leans off?
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:47 PM   #68790
Garak
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Location: Victoria, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
I imagine an engineer type would be able to figure out the real top speed with the given HP/gearing available.
I think I would need the drag coefficient as well to calculate that, although I am a mere mortal and not yet a fully fledged engineer.
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