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Old 09-04-2012, 02:04 PM   #68776
MeterPig
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Location: Parker, Colorado...
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Well, I am 99 percent sure the FMF Q is going on the flea market and the stocker is going back on. I would like to pick up a gixxer pipe, but the 04f0 is over the top unobtaniable and maybe one will pop up this winter for an ok price. I saw a NOS one go for $200 plus shipping. That plus a mid pipe makes it a 400 buck system and if one gets a head pipe-that's another $125....all for 4 HP, 8 less lbs and more noise. Cool, but not over the top need. If it pops up cheap, I will get it.

The FMF is a great pipe, but to my still very good working ears, it's loud to me. To someone who has hearing loss, not loud. I generally ride with the highest DB rated ear plugs and it still bugs me. Great pipe, great response, just too loud-and I just repacked it. Which by the way, FMF so smartly glued the pipe and outer casing together. Really?
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:06 PM   #68777
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When I originally did my re-jetting, 32,000 miles ago, I did before and after testing. On an open stretch of highway I passed a landmark at a steady speed of 60 mph indicated in 5th gear, I then "floored it". Before re-jetting at the second landmark (not sure of the distance between) I hit 100 mph indicated (probably 94 actual) and was only slightly still accelerating. After re-jetting, slide drilled, side of air box removed, K&N air filter, FMF Q-1 over the same course the next morning I hit 110 indicated (Actual probably 103) and the bike was still accelerating. Last year I testing the speedo against GPS and found the speedo overstated by about 6% at 100 mph indicated. After re-jetting my MPG went from an average 48 to 50 to an average of 45 to 47.


Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
How do you guys get into the 90's and 100's? Is that with the stock optimistic speedo? With my vapor, and GPS I top out at 87, but get a wobble. I assume its due to my worn rear tire, and panniers.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:13 PM   #68778
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Well, I am 99 percent sure the FMF Q is going on the flea market and the stocker is going back on. I would like to pick up a gixxer pipe, but the 04f0 is over the top unobtaniable and maybe one will pop up this winter for an ok price. I saw a NOS one go for $200 plus shipping. That plus a mid pipe makes it a 400 buck system and if one gets a head pipe-that's another $125....all for 4 HP, 8 less lbs and more noise. Cool, but not over the top need. If it pops up cheap, I will get it.

The FMF is a great pipe, but to my still very good working ears, it's loud to me. To someone who has hearing loss, not loud. I generally ride with the highest DB rated ear plugs and it still bugs me. Great pipe, great response, just too loud-and I just repacked it. Which by the way, FMF so smartly glued the pipe and outer casing together. Really?
get the busa pipe that jesse is now fitting up for instead:
http://www.kientech.com/DR650GSXRExaust.htm
those are easy to find and cheap

one of the biggest advantages to going this way is you'll have a pipe that does not need to be repacked.
you'll spend about the same as aftermarket pipe and loose the weight and gain hp but not having to repack is what appeals to most. it looks like stock and even sounds that way at idle/low speed.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:15 PM   #68779
ER70S-2
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Since my bike serves almost entirely as a commuting machine these days, I'm probably going to just drop the $20 and get the 16t front. Did you notice any appreciable difference in fuel economy when you made the change, or was it just smoother highway cruising? Also, I've noticed that my bike is really having a hard time maintaining highway speeds above 75-80mph. If I'm on anything other than flat road, I have to keep the throttle all the way open just to maintain 80, and I'm worried that gearing it up would exacerbate that problem. Does it feel at all down on power now that you've made the change?
No difference in fuel mileage, maybe even less than stock; a surprise to me. And I don't use 5th below 60mph. It's a little sluggish off a stop and traffic jams suck with the 16t. If I wanted top speed, I'd buy another FJR (46 mpg). Sometimes the DR pulls hard through 80 (6000 ft), other times 80 was all it had. All mph are GPS not speedo, so my 80 is 87-ish speedo. But I don't like it up there anyway, it's a dual sport. Going up Mt Vernon Canyon 80 isn't going to happen, I'm surprised when I can ride for a mile or two, WFO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I'm in Albuquerque, so approximately 5000' ASL. I always assumed it was my weight. With all my gear on, I'm pushing 250lbs. I've been meaning to tear my carb apart and clean it for a while now, so I should probably move that to the top of my to-do list. Not sure if that would explain my gas mileage as well, but that's generally been low 40's to high 30's.
250, ready to ride isn't all that heavy. Your mileage is worse than mine and we're close to the same altitude. On a bad day mine may drop to 55mpg. You said that it runs better with the airfilter off, hmmmmm. Has anyone ever been in the carb, or is it stock? The air filter is old enough that it may be deteriorating, although my 2004 is still ok. Oops, I see you're running a K&N.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 09-04-2012 at 03:24 PM
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:16 PM   #68780
MeterPig
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The last time I looked, the busa pipe was still spendy on Ebay and mid pipe is $224. The whole FMF slip on and mid pipe can be found for $292 on ebay. So, the can costs FMF $50 and the mid pipe $250? Maybe FMF should make mid pipes and a killing. I find the mid pipes to be pricey at $224. And the busa can sticks out past the rear fender-how is that useful?
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:21 PM   #68781
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
The last time I looked, the busa pipe was still spendy on Ebay and mid pipe is $224. The whole FMF slip on and mid pipe can be found for $292 on ebay. So, the can costs FMF $50 and the mid pipe $250? Maybe FMF should make mid pipes and a killing. I find the mid pipes to be pricey at $224. And the busa can sticks out past the rear fender-how is that useful?
jesse mounts the busa pipe in farther and thus it's only less then 1/2" out past the 00-01 gsxr1000 pipe. you're thinking of the 2003+ on gsxr1000 pipe.

as for jesse's price that includes a designed & welded mid-pipe/adapter plate, plus his designed mount adapter, bolts and gaskets not just a generic mid-pipe, so don't be a dork.

even if the fmf and gsxr/busa pipe cost the same, those who choose the later want a pipe that does not repacking.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #68782
MeterPig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
as for jesse's price that includes a designed & welded mid-pipe/adapter plate, plus his designed mount adapter, bolts and gaskets not just a generic mid-pipe...
I know you are a big supporter of Jesse's work so I'll look past the other part. The quality is nice-but it's just a mid pipe. I wonder if FMF would sell just their mid pipe...hmmm.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #68783
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
panniers are the biggest issue for you. they are an aerodynamic brick.
carb mods, better exhaust and stock gearing you can get over 100 mph.
A pair of small panniers on my 350 and fuel economy went from 160-190km per tank to 140. This was with 80-90kph smooth road riding, no stop signs or give ways. I was expecting 190-230km on the tank...
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:15 PM   #68784
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munzo View Post
Apparently no one. But I've read you can swap over DRZ-400 clutch mount and master cylinder, which will give you access to DRZ shorty levers. I've been looking into doing this just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
The RMZ450 has short levers stock and both sides bolt up to the DR including the clutch cable,you loose the 'choke lever and mirror mounts.
I think the DRZ has the 11mm master cylinder like the RMZ also,smaller bore than the DR650.







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Old 09-04-2012, 03:29 PM   #68785
MeterPig
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How did you handle the sensors for the brake light?
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:36 PM   #68786
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
How did you handle the sensors for the brake light?
Whoops,forgot that.
After that picture was taken I added a banjo bolt with the sensor.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:37 PM   #68787
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Ah, good info. I am thinking of adding a banjo bolt sensor anyway due to the fragility of the current setup. Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:54 PM   #68788
kbuckey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Going up Mt Vernon Canyon 80 isn't going to happen, I'm surprised when I can ride for a mile or two, WFO.
My bone stock DR holds 70 pretty well in 5th up the canyon (usually taking the frontage road because 1) less traffic, 2) fewer cops 3) I'm getting off at the Lookout Mountain exit anyway) UNLESS we have one of those headwinds. One day had to downshift to 3rd to hold 55.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:57 PM   #68789
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I was cruising up the C470 yesterday evening and how to downshift to 4th and work to hold my head steady just for 60. The crosswinds around the speedway seem to be horrid most of the time.
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:19 PM   #68790
thetable
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Ah, good info. I am thinking of adding a banjo bolt sensor anyway due to the fragility of the current setup. Thanks.
I'd read from a few people that the wiring on the banjo bolt pressure sensors can be a bit fragile. I might put one of the banjo bolts in when I have to pass inspection, until then... well, my rear brake still has a switch.
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