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Old 09-06-2012, 05:33 PM   #68851
TinkerinWstuff
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Northern Front Range
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I just noticed that my shock bumper is pretty cracked. How hard is it to change this? I know I need to take the shock off, but do I also need to bleed the Nitrogen out, and refill it, or is it just disassembling the shock, and sliding on a new bumper? Thanks.
Nope. Simple to change. But, depending on your year, the shock probably needs fresh fluid anyway. The viscosity of shock fluid doesn't last forever.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:38 PM   #68852
dljocky
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Thanks for the reply. The DR is a 2009 model that I bought new in 2010, it has right under 35K miles on it right now. Think a fluid change is due?
Thanks again




Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
Nope. Simple to change. But, depending on your year, the shock probably needs fresh fluid anyway. The viscosity of shock fluid doesn't last forever.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:02 PM   #68853
TrophyHunter
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I did PC's shock upgrade kit at about 7000 miles and was, uh, shocked...at the condition of the fluid. Milky and nasty. Wouldn't hurt to do it since it's out if you have the time and facility.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:28 PM   #68854
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
panniers are the biggest issue for you. they are an aerodynamic brick.
carb mods, better exhaust and stock gearing you can get over 100 mph.
Removed my panniers and speed tested, 88mph up a slight hill. couldn't do much more due to stupid NY traffic. Can't wait to get a 790 kit in!
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:57 PM   #68855
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
So I bugged Laminar about a DR650 specific screen. Hopefully they see the DR650 market as an opportunity.
cool, but what's wrong with the one jeff is selling?
fits great and provides the proper coverage i'd expect.
when riding off-road just pull it off.
what more can they come up with besides a tweak to this?
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe

cee baileys also has 2 great options
http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:28 PM   #68856
MeterPig
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Well, for whatever reason, Laminar does not want at this time to make a specific Dr650 screen. Interesting.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:42 PM   #68857
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Some of you can be rough.My first attempt:

But I did end up with when $$ permttied:
flex pipe is not so bad...Cord did OK with it ;-)

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Old 09-06-2012, 10:22 PM   #68858
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Well, for whatever reason, Laminar does not want at this time to make a specific Dr650 screen. Interesting.
i do believe they know the b-king one (which isn't selling at all as a bike) fits the DR650 & DRZ400 (plus DRZ250) very well and thus i'd venture to say they do not wish to outlay any more $ in R&D.

the 1st person to fit up the b-king one did it with laminar's help in finding one that fits from their inventory. why they don't list it on their website as fitting the DR too is a mystery, but that's why we're lucky to have Procycle follow through.

you owe me a $1 for my free time.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:39 PM   #68859
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MeterPig screwed with this post 09-07-2012 at 04:08 AM
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:45 AM   #68860
Jammin
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Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
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Thanks for the help, guys.

I have a multimeter and the manual and went over the bike today and I think I have a faulty CDI that is leading to a loss of spark. I did a continuity test on the CDI and my results are below. The wire going from terminal 9 (W/Bl) is the power source for the ignition coil. The wire going from Terminal 10 (O/W) is the ground cut off from the Starter button. Does this indicate that there's a ground leakage/short in the CDI and it's sending too many amps to the ignition coil, which then heats up quickly and shuts down the bike? And then when the bike cools for a bit, CDI starts the bike but then after 10 mins, it heats up and shuts down the ignition coil.

Just to cover all my bases, I did a continuity check on the ignition switch, starter button, generator coil and all is good. No rust or corrosion on contacts. The dielectric grease that I applied in 2010 is still there

Resistance check on the ignition coil: manual says primary coil should be between 0.07 - 0.12 Ohms but I was reading 0.40 Ohms. For secondary coil (at the plugs), stated range is 23 - 25 KOhms but I was getting 28 KOhms. Manual says these are just approx values, so I think coil is fine. As an initial fix at a bush mechanic, I installed two Chinese ignition coils meant for 125cc bikes and the secondary coil on there was only getting 4 KOhms :/

Bike stats: 1998 model with around 75,000 miles and lots of welding done on the bike with CDI attached but battery disconnected (something about arcing...)

No luck with sourcing F650 coils in Nairobi, but I've managed to source a used DR CDI and ignition coil in South Africa! Going to be shipped to me next week. Thanks Jenx and Ganjora

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Old 09-07-2012, 07:58 AM   #68861
Rob.G
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Timing Chain?

Hey, how likely is it for a timing chain to go bad? As in cause vibrations. I know the DR vibrates.. it's its nature. But mine seems to be getting worse. I replaced the chain and sprockets about 1000 miles ago and it was pretty smooth, but now it's already back to vibrating again, and pretty darn bad now. It tends to happen at certain RPMs. It used to be smooth as silk at 5000 RPM, now it's a bit buzzy. And below that, say starting around 4200, it's worse. In fact, from 4200-4800 or so it's kinda bad... smoothing out a bit at 5k, then gets bad again above it.

Cruising along in 5th at lower speeds, say 55-60, where RPMs hang in the 3800-4000 range, it's kinda buzzy too, but different than the 4200-4800 buzz. It's hard to describe. I wish there was somebody local with a DR650 so I could compare.

My gearing is close to stock (16/46). The tires are Shinko 705's. The bike has about 23k miles on it.

So I'm trying to figure out if it's normal, the chain, or something else like the timing chain.

Rob
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:06 AM   #68862
Jammin
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Power source coil and pick-up coil look good:

Power source coil resistance: 0.6 Ohms (should be 0.1 - 0.2)
Pick-up coil resistance: 213 Ohms (should be 170 - 256)
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:16 AM   #68863
Jammin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thehomealien View Post
Just bumping you up so your question doesn't get lost. Good luck.
Thanks for the bump
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Jay,
I hope I can help! You are living my dream!
Just because it is hot doesn't necessarily mean it is broken. The CDI could be messed up too.
Thanks for the help Right now, the dream is on hold At least, it's not a nightmare. Electrical problems are the worst!!! Thanks be to the interwebs and connection to the DR community. You guys and the guys in South Africa on Wilddog have been fantastic and Im lucky that these electrical spares are on hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i think the dr would run with battery disconnected so not sure it's the shorai. guess you could start it and disconnect the battery right away and see what happens?
I think the DR needs the battery to run. A dead battery stopped me outside of Sao Paulo, two years ago. I push started the bike but it died in 20 ft, battery was toast, it wasn't holding a charge.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:03 AM   #68864
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Power source coil and pick-up coil look good:

Power source coil resistance: 0.6 Ohms (should be 0.1 - 0.2)
Pick-up coil resistance: 213 Ohms (should be 170 - 256)

I've got what appears to be the same issue as you, so your posts have been infinitely useful to me. How were you checking the resistance across the coil? I'm picking up a multimeter after work today to start troubleshooting, but I realized that I don't exactly know what I should be checking. I do know from the "screw driver next to the engine case" test, that I'm not getting juice down my spark plug wires, but that's about it.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:52 AM   #68865
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Thanks for the help, guys.

The wire going from terminal 9 (W/Bl) is the power source for the ignition coil. The wire going from Terminal 10 (O/W) is the ground cut off from the Starter button. Does this indicate that there's a ground leakage/short in the CDI and it's sending too many amps to the ignition coil, which then heats up quickly and shuts down the bike? And then when the bike cools for a bit, CDI starts the bike but then after 10 mins, it heats up and shuts down the ignition coil.
It looks like everything checks out fine besides the CDI. The high resistance reading indicates a more open circuit rather than a short. A short usually reads 0 Ohms or something very small. Amps aren't really sent... A voltage is applied across a resistance which induces an amperage. The amperage depends entirely on the resistance of the load (primary coil), and supplied voltage by the CDI. Without knowing the circuitry of the CDI, I can't begin to figure out the electrical path in your "different resistance valued" CDI. Even if I did know the circuitry, it might be too complicated for me. I guess you could measure the voltage output while cranking the bike - but I don't know the normal voltage so that probably won't help either. Plus, that voltage would be pulsing...
Anyway, if the CDI is sending out higher voltage to the coil, then a higher amperage will be induced creating more heat. I'm not sure why it shuts down before plain melting or destroying itself though. Maybe it has some sort of thermal protection circuit. Or maybe it is just tough and able to take a lot of abuse while continuing to hobble along at 10 minute increments...
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