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Old 09-08-2012, 03:23 PM   #68926
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Oddometer: 509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadbeat Lebowski View Post
Some time ago (well ok, a long time ago), I read about a longer bolt available for this problem. But it was too long ago, all I remember is that it may have been one of the engine mount bolts on a ZX something or other. I consider an engine mount bolt to be structural and think a longer bolt is mandatory, not 'this is long enough'.

------------------------------------------------------------

I had the same issue and the wise ones here saved my ass. The motor mount off a zx 14 does the trick nicely and hit ur local bike scrap yard for used ones. Paid 6 bucks plus a beer for some washers out of a buddies Sprinkler work van.

Not one dealer here could find the part number to order that bolt from Suzuki, so if u get it please post.

It's on the DR650 "frame" fiche up until 2005.


09103-10154 is the part number and it is used a few other places.


http://www.ronayers.com/WhereUsed/N/9935


.
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GaThumper screwed with this post 09-08-2012 at 08:10 PM
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:24 PM   #68927
iamjacksmotorcycle
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Question cam chain tensioner

Im sure this has been hashed out on here before, but I couldnt find it, so hopefully this is useful to more than just me. I am wondering what are the merits of the aftermarket manual cam chain tensioner vs the stock auto one? Is it a big deal? I didnt see one on Jesse's site, and he carries just about everything that's important. I've got his high comp piston in there if that makes a diff, currently with the stock tensioner...

Open to opinions, advice, and recommendations.
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:25 PM   #68928
acap650
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno View Post
Haven't been on here in awhile but gots a prob w/DR. It has been lowered the factory way w/stock tires and it is squirrelly as hell on gravel causing death grip on bars. Lowered Weestrom and it does just as good as it did before lowering. Ideas?
More likely the tires than the lowering - reducing air pressure in tires will help.
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:32 PM   #68929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porky View Post
My '08 has a little over 6000 miles on the original Trailwings. At about 6500, or so, both front (cupped) and rear will need to be replaced. I would like to replace them with some sort of street tire (99/1).

Is there a good cornering street tire that runs more milles than the Trailwings?
Michelin Anakee2, Metzler Tourance or Pirelli Scorpion Trail will give higher mileage than TWs but cost more. Shinko 705 may also give more mileage and cost less.
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:34 PM   #68930
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno View Post
Haven't been on here in awhile but gots a prob w/DR. It has been lowered the factory way w/stock tires and it is squirrelly as hell on gravel causing death grip on bars. Lowered Weestrom and it does just as good as it did before lowering. Ideas?
Did you lower both the front and the back? If you only lowered the front, that would decrease the rake and increase the squirreliness... If you only lowered the back, it would plow worse in softer stuff.

Otherwise, acap650 is probably right and it's the tires.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:33 PM   #68931
wayno
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Thanks acap650 and Feelers. I lowered f and r and i will let some air out and give it a run...was hoping to wear those tires out before changing but may not be able to tolerate them that long...also may try
fork brace to see if that take some of the squirrel out. Thanks again
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:54 PM   #68932
TrophyHunter
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No suspension expert, but I'm assuming you did the disassemble, spacer from top to bottom in the forks...same springs, correct oil levels, etc? Disassemble shock, flip the collar, same spring?

Reason I ask is we did my son's last weekend. Noticed when we flipped the collar, the spring sat higher on the shock which seemed counterintuitive to us...like the shock would ride higher even though it gets mounted in the top hole on the bottom mount.

I had measured the threads remaining on the shock instead of relying on the manual for spring length since it has a more resistant spring than stock. Of course, the thread measurement was less since the spring now sat higher on the shock body.

We ran out of time and didn't dial in the sag but he rode it home with no issues. Odd that if the tires were working for you prior, they don't now. You didn't state wether they worked or not so I'm guessing here.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:27 PM   #68933
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porky View Post
My '08 has a little over 6000 miles on the original Trailwings. At about 6500, or so, both front (cupped) and rear will need to be replaced. I would like to replace them with some sort of street tire (99/1).

Is there a good cornering street tire that runs more milles than the Trailwings?
I'll throw my vote in for the Shinko 705's. They've been rock solid on road, and they're still really fun on anything that isn't soft sand or mud. For around $100 a set, it's hard to go wrong. I'm not sure I'll get more than 6500 miles out of mine, but I have heard some people getting way more than that.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:29 PM   #68934
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
You are on the right track, but the jumping resistances doesn't really indicate a bad pulse coil - rather it indicates a poor intermittent connection. This is probably where you stuck the wires into the plug, but could be elsewhere.
You need to have a steady value (because of good connections), and then see if the value is within specification.
I'll see if I can get the wires more securely on the probes and in the plugs to get a consistent reading. The only two readings it held consistently were 15ohms and 0.L. Since neither of those values is between 170 and 256, I figured something was amiss. Any ideas on how I should go about getting a more solid measurement? I don't want to throw this off more than I have to
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:47 PM   #68935
MeterPig
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Location: Parker, Colorado...
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Just bolted up the 13t front sprocket with the supplied bracket from procycle. After taking it for a ride, this bike has become all that more versatile. Tomorrow is rampart poker run with non stop atv and some single track trails. No problem with the sprocket. Now if Suzuki had made it a six speed I would probably need one less sprocket.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:49 PM   #68936
wayno
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Location: East of KCMO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
No suspension expert, but I'm assuming you did the disassemble, spacer from top to bottom in the forks...same springs, correct oil levels, etc? Disassemble shock, flip the collar, same spring?
Wouldn't say considerably better before but better, bike also has heaviest springs front and rear.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:39 PM   #68937
enduroranger175
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In a pinch

Guys, everyone talks of a temporary fix for the oil cool. Where do you get the fittings for this temp bypass? New cooler is in route to San Diego and I am in Moab.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:42 PM   #68938
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduroranger175 View Post
Guys, everyone talks of a temporary fix for the oil cool. Where do you get the fittings for this temp bypass? New cooler is in route to San Diego and I am in Moab.
I think you just need to cut the cooler hose ends off and put a piece of gas line in place to keep the oil flowing properly. Take the rad right out, leaving the fittings on the engine.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:24 PM   #68939
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjacksmotorcycle View Post
im sure this has been hashed out on here before, but i couldnt find it, so hopefully this is useful to more than just me. I am wondering what are the merits of the aftermarket manual cam chain tensioner vs the stock auto one? Is it a big deal? I didnt see one on jesse's site, and he carries just about everything that's important. I've got his high comp piston in there if that makes a diff, currently with the stock tensioner...

Open to opinions, advice, and recommendations.
+1
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #68940
Rainier_runner
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Anybody installed a 40F0 muffler using jesse's billet bracket along with the Pro Moto Billet rack? They're both beautiful billet pieces, but they take up the same space at the rear mount! Any solutions? Pictures? I'd hate to carve either piece up, but I'm about to. How say you?
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