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Old 09-17-2012, 06:33 AM   #69196
greer
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But was the '95 an SE? I'm wondering if KJD actually got a '96 with a late '95 build date.

Sarah
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:14 AM   #69197
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingDonkeys View Post
I'm sure this has been asked before, but searching through 4625 pages has yielded me no specifics so here goes.

I want a DR650. MrsDonkeys wants a dual-sport that we can both ride. Not 2 up, but both pilot. The problem is that she is 5'1" tall.

I'm seeing lowering links online for up to 4". For her to ride, we would need a target seat height of no more than 31". So for your experienced DR guys, how do the lowering links equate to seat height? Does a 4" drop get the seat height down below 31"?

I'm a little late to reply party on this one, but maybe this will help.

I have a 29" inseam. I had to lower my DR a total of 2-1/2" over stock. The first inch and a half was using the factory settings on the shock/forks. The last inch were dogbones. I could stand for it to go lower, but that would mean cutting the seat down, and it's already a very nice aftermarket Bill Mayer seat, and I don't want to risk screwing up how comfy it is.

Find out what your wife's inseam is. Many women have longer legs than us guys. If she's anywhere close to 29", you can do it just fine with a cut-down seat and the other mods I did. Don't go more than 1" lower via dogbones or you will have to have the rear shock cut down to reduce it's travel. Otherwise anytime you bottom out, it will hit the underside of the fender.

What I would also worry about with her, especially given her height, is her strength. Can she handle the weight of a DR650, especially if it's loaded with gear for a long trip? If not, then the suggestions by others on the XT225/250 are good.

Another idea.. if that bike seems too underpowered, consider a Kawasaki KLX250S. Now, it too is pretty tall (I have one). I dropped it 1" with dogbones, and then had the seat cut down about 3" when I had the Bill Mayer factory make a seat for it. Now it's fine, and it's only 300 lbs full of gas in its 3.7 gal gas tank, CycleRacks rack and other mods. The upside of the KLX is the 351cc big bore kit from Bill Blue. I have no idea if there are any good big bores for the XT 225 or 250... maybe there are, and if so, then they remain probably the best choice. Otherwise, the KLX would be a great idea since the 351 will turn it into a very viable long-distance bike with enough power to keep up with yo on the DR650.

I did a 440 mile ride yesterday around central Oregon. I was on my DR, he was on his new KLX250S. I held back a bit and kept the speeds under 65 mph. He had that poor little thing wound out for all it was worth keeping up. Still, he managed 60+ mpg (and I got 50-55 myself). But he's dying for a 351. Heck I am too for my own KLX. :)




New topic.. annoying oil leaks. My DR650 has one of those too, up top. I think it's the valve cover too. Not the little individual covers, but the "main" cover on top of the head. It's done that for as long as I've had it. It never leaks enough to change the level. I'm waiting til the base gasket leaks enough to warrant changing, and also timing that with (hopefully) doing the 790 kit. Dangit, I need more money!! :)

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Old 09-17-2012, 09:19 AM   #69198
KJD19892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
But was the '95 an SE? I'm wondering if KJD actually got a '96 with a late '95 build date.

Sarah
I'm not really sure. 95' SE was just what I was told when I bought it. Is there any easy way to determine the difference without checking the serial number or anything because the bike is currently 100 miles away sitting in my buddies shop.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:23 AM   #69199
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So I'm still working on switching out that pick-up coil. Turns out that gasket removal is a serious pain in the ass. The thing appears to have been superglued on, and my straight razor has put several dings in the metal. However, I'm pretty much done with that, and I was shaking it upside down to get the last of the chunks out from where they had fallen into the cover. As I was shaking it, a little metal collar of some kind fell out. It's about 1/2 call, very thin metal, and the diameter is such that is could have come from pretty much anywhere. I'll update this with some pictures when I get home, but I was wondering if anyone had any idea where it goes.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:46 AM   #69200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So I'm still working on switching out that pick-up coil. Turns out that gasket removal is a serious pain in the ass. The thing appears to have been superglued on, and my straight razor has put several dings in the metal. However, I'm pretty much done with that, and I was shaking it upside down to get the last of the chunks out from where they had fallen into the cover. As I was shaking it, a little metal collar of some kind fell out. It's about 1/2 call, very thin metal, and the diameter is such that is could have come from pretty much anywhere. I'll update this with some pictures when I get home, but I was wondering if anyone had any idea where it goes.
It's a bushing that fits in that idler gear between the main crank gear and starter gear... assembly.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:49 AM   #69201
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by ShadyRascal View Post
I've drooled over V Stroms for some time myself. Finally got into a position to buy one, and recently picked up a 2007 Wee. I love it, and just got home from a 900 mile run through Yellowstone and the Beartooth. Fantastic bike.

Funny while we were on a 200 mile run of all dirt, we met up with a couple fellers from Colorado, one on a KLR and one on a DR650. They were on the way to Canada. They were perfectly happy on those bikes, doing mostly dirt on the Divide trail. At the moment I figured I'd be happy if I were on my DR. But, on day 3 when we had nearly 400 miles to ride home, the V Strom was the bike to be on.

I'll be keeping and loving both.
Funny, I was reading along to catch up (been gone since 9/6) here when I started seeing all the posts about street riding the DR. I did 1500 miles in 7 days, all tar. I rode the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline drive in VA & NC> also rose US129 in NC& TN, better known as Tail of the Dragon and VA16 known as Back of the Dragon. The DR did well. I had put on brand new Trailwings. Take-off from a friends brand mew DRZ400. (I have an 18" rear from a DR350) The DR did fine. The mistake I made was trying my uncles Kawasaki Versys. That bike turns so much easier on the tar. Probably much like a WeeStrom would. The DR is fine as a street bike but doesn't turn in the twisties like a "real" streetbike will. I am not a street rider at all. I have never done a ride like this before. I was geared stock and bought a SeatConcepts seat special for this ride. The seat is awesome. I wouldn't have made it with the stock seat.

If I was ever to do a ride like this again I would want a WeeStrom or something more street oriented than my DR. A 2 cylinder would be less buzzy to the feet and hands. On the other hand, a Wee would suck for 99% of the rides I've taken on my DR. It's staying with me for the long run, as it does exactly what I bought it for. Plus, after 6 years, I finally have a great seat.

here's a picture fron the "Tail of the Dragon" :


BTW: did anyone miss me?

Time to put the MT-21's back on!
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 09-17-2012 at 09:54 AM
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:19 AM   #69202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJD19892 View Post
I'm not really sure. 95' SE was just what I was told when I bought it. Is there any easy way to determine the difference without checking the serial number or anything because the bike is currently 100 miles away sitting in my buddies shop.
1995:


1996:
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:00 AM   #69203
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I suck in sand too. It's always difficult on a heavy bike.

I don't have any additional advice but I did recently see a great explanation about why sand is such a bitch.

I think most of us are familiar with the 'trail' or 'caster' effect that keeps your from wheel pointed forward. Riding on flat ground the contact patch is behind the steering axis and the force on the contact patch adds a self centering effect to the steering.

When your front wheel is in deep sand the force where the tire contacts the sand is in front of the steering axis. You get a negative trail effect. With the contact force in front it makes the tire want to turn and the more it turns the stronger the turning force is applied to the tire. It wants to do anything but go straight. You can counteract this in a few ways.

1) Move as much weight as far back as possible. This will help stop the front tire from sinking into the sand as far which will lessen the negative trail effect.

2) Accelerate and stay on the gas. This will lighten the front end even more and help the front tire stay high enough to steer normally.

3) Go fast. If you go fast enough front wheel won't be able to sink into the sand and will steer normally.

Yeah, how fast do you want to crash? Like Grifter said, don't slow down suddenly. Chopping the throttle will bury the front wheel even deeper and the negative trail will steer the wheel right out from under you.

My sand riding hasn't gotten much better but I believe understanding what makes it difficult will help me develop my own techniques for getting through it.
You forgot: If you think you are in the right gear, downshift and then if you feel like you are revving the piss outta the motor stay there. It is much easier to change direction in sand if the wheels are turning at different speeds. (rear spinning)
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:22 AM   #69204
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I always find it easier in a higher gear, less torque to the rear wheel.
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:24 AM   #69205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
1995:


1996:
Ok looking at the frame I would have to say it's a 95'. It looks like the 96' has square tubes on the frame. I checked the title and it says 95' se.
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:40 AM   #69206
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
The mistake I made was trying my uncles Kawasaki Versys. That bike turns so much easier on the tar. Probably much like a WeeStrom would. The DR is fine as a street bike but doesn't turn in the twisties like a "real" streetbike will. I am not a street rider at all. I have never done a ride like this before.

If I was ever to do a ride like this again I would want a WeeStrom or something more street oriented than my DR.
here's a picture fron the "Tail of the Dragon" :


BTW: did anyone miss me?

Time to put the MT-21's back on!

Welcome back Russ. When I was out west a couple of weeks ago, I was wishing I was on my DR650 on a particularly long (over 80 miles) set of twisties, instead of the 600lb+ pig I was on. While the GPZ was great on the long boring stretches of road, the DR650 is my weapon of choice when things get really twisty. Sounds like you had fun.
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:48 AM   #69207
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Originally Posted by SteelJM1 View Post
It's a bushing that fits in that idler gear between the main crank gear and starter gear... assembly.
So I'm still pretty noob at this. Is that the one with like 5 rows of teeth, or is it the one that only has one row of teeth?
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:53 AM   #69208
Rob.G
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I hope people don't hate me too much for posting this... but how OFTEN do you change the oil in your DR? I don't care to start a, "what oil is best" debate; I already have a brand that I use and I will stick with it (all I will say is that it's synthetic)... but how often, as in miles, do you tend to go?

I've been going 2000 miles per change, given that the motor is air-cooled and only holds two quarts. I wonder if this is about right, or if it can go longer, especially on synthetic? I just happened to look at the odometer today (I'm at 24,035 miles) and I checked my oil change log, and last time was 22,235. So I either will go to 24,500, or maybe round it up to 25k because I like even numbers.

Thoughts?

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Old 09-17-2012, 12:08 PM   #69209
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I hope people don't hate me too much for posting this... but how OFTEN do you change the oil in your DR? I don't care to start a, "what oil is best" debate; I already have a brand that I use and I will stick with it (all I will say is that it's synthetic)... but how often, as in miles, do you tend to go?

I've been going 2000 miles per change, given that the motor is air-cooled and only holds two quarts. I wonder if this is about right, or if it can go longer, especially on synthetic? I just happened to look at the odometer today (I'm at 24,035 miles) and I checked my oil change log, and last time was 22,235. So I either will go to 24,500, or maybe round it up to 25k because I like even numbers.

Thoughts?

Rob
After dunking it in the creek earlier this year, if you average it out over the 8,000 miles on the bike I think it would come to about every 400 miles
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:09 PM   #69210
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I hope people don't hate me too much for posting this... but how OFTEN do you change the oil in your DR?
I don't change the oil unless I've gone at least 3000 miles but try to get it done before I hit 4000 miles.
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