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Old 09-20-2012, 04:17 AM   #69286
koh kood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I'm about to attempt to change the oil in my shock. It feels like I'm riding a pogo stick it bounces so bad. Anyone who has some advise on this please chime in.
I'm 240lbs without gear, and I do have a heavier spring on it. Should I consider putting a heavier weight oil in, or would stay with the stock oil? I'm not really sure of the oil weight. I'm not going to do a re-valve job or anything, but is there anything that I should replace while I'm in there, ie, a seal or something? I am going to replace the bumper.
Bike is a little over 2.5 yrs old, 35K miles.
Thanks!
There's lots of good information here that might help you on the shock rebuild.


http://drriders.com/topic2041.html
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:06 AM   #69287
dljocky
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Thanks

Thanks all,
I'm not the most mechanical person, so any information that I can get to pull from is appreciated.
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:59 AM   #69288
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=35652

Full revalve write up but it may help. I didn't replace my seal head (7000 miles on bike) and haven't had any leaks at all.


http://www.procycle.us/info/guides/d...ock-build.html

PC has a nice write up with a little more sanitary pics. They were a great deal of help on the phone when I was deciding the direction I wanted to go.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:44 AM   #69289
greystoke
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Pig won't idle

Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe). Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:53 AM   #69290
Fire Escape
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Location: Epsom, NH
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Lightweight, Quick Stand

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Is there some special knack to getting the bike up on a stand? I've got a stand like the one below but in the low position it is still too tall to slide under the sump. It's a good inch or two too high, bike is standard, not lowered or anything. The stand has a rubber top to it which makes sliding the bike on from the side very difficult. Is there a knack to this or do I just need to man up and wrestle beast onto it or am I missing something?



Would rolling the front wheel onto a piece of 2xXX lumber get you high enough? Might need a piece for each end and the side stand. Being intended for a MX bike, is that thing rated to lift a DR? Wouldn't be much fun to get it up there and end up wearing it for a hat.


Bruce
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:46 AM   #69291
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Is there some special knack to getting the bike up on a stand? I've got a stand like the one below but in the low position it is still too tall to slide under the sump. It's a good inch or two too high, bike is standard, not lowered or anything. The stand has a rubber top to it which makes sliding the bike on from the side very difficult. Is there a knack to this or do I just need to man up and wrestle beast onto it or am I missing something?

I have one like that and it's not going to last very long if used to pick up the DR650. It's just barely adequate for the G450X we have.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #69292
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I have one like that and it's not going to last very long if used to pick up the DR650. It's just barely adequate for the G450X we have.
+1
Also, those type of stands have the leverage ratios designed for lifting a 230 pound bike. You will probably find that even if you can get the stand under the bike it will take 2 people standing on the pedal to get it in the air.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:55 AM   #69293
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezagm4 View Post
Thanks for those numbers! That definitely helps.

Rather than spend that at a dealer, if you're really right down in Corvalis (I'm in Salem), come up one weekend soon and we can just do it at my place. I have all the tools, including a welder to shorten the side stand.

Rob
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:11 AM   #69294
twigsnapper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Push the bike up onto two pieces of wood - one under the front tire and one under the rear tire. Use whatever size you need to get the bike high enough to slide that stand under!
Reminds me of the farmer who got a new donkey and when he tried to get him thru the stable door the donkey's ears hit the sill causing him to recoil. When he told the neighbor, that guy said to dig a few inches into the door's stoop to create some clearance. The farmer laughed at him, " you stupid shit, his legs aint to long, his ears are too tall ".
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #69295
Minsk99
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Location: Cambridge, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe). Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you just had the carb off its a possibility. It's hard to do the WD-40 spray test since the bike is not holding idle. So, I'd start by making sure you have a good seal on the boots and that they are tightened down. Also, check to see that the choke cable is set properly and that the black, plastic housing is screwed on correctly.

Perhaps one of the carb guru inmates can give you better direction than I, but just some food for thought.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:53 PM   #69296
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Is there some special knack to getting the bike up on a stand? I've got a stand like the one below but in the low position it is still too tall to slide under the sump. It's a good inch or two too high, bike is standard, not lowered or anything. The stand has a rubber top to it which makes sliding the bike on from the side very difficult. Is there a knack to this or do I just need to man up and wrestle beast onto it or am I missing something?
Buy an oxy/acetylene welder and make your own stuff for the rest of your life. The handle rotates so it can be used in any of the four directions on the bike, LF, RF, LR, RR. It's also removeable for the times it needs to be flat to fit in a tight spot; like packing for a trip.



Gotta go, it's warm and sunny again.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:01 PM   #69297
deathu
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Location: Bucharest
Oddometer: 77
Weak spark?

Hi,

I need some directions for testing the ignition system, eventually without special tools. It seems to me that my '98 DR650 produces a weak, yellowish spark (tested using a spare spark plug connected in turn to each of the HT leads). Of course the ground electrode was held in contact with the engine block.

How exactly should the spark of a healthy DR650 ignition system look like? I would have expected a blue/bluish spark.
I measured the resistance between the spark plug cap electrodes and it seems to be in spec as per the service manual I have.

Any directions for diagnosing the ignition system or a weak spark condition in particular, are more than welcome.

The bike runs decently well now, but the plugs are always fouling with carbon. The carb is bone stock, rebuilt using brand new internal components, so I would exclude a rich mixture condition. If I understand correctly a weak spark can also cause fouling...

Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:02 PM   #69298
Feelers
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Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe). Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle.


Am I looking at the problem wrong?
Greystroke,

It sounds like you simply need to adjust your idle screw. The idle screw is also the throttle stop screw which will essentially hold your throttle open slightly. It actually sounds like your throttle is too closed at idle - which is decreasing the airflow which is decreasing the vacuum which is decreasing fuel flow. That's why blocking the snorkel might be helping. Is 2 1/4 turns normal for the fuel screw? I thought it was more like 1 1/2 turns....
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:15 PM   #69299
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe) The stock needle isn't adjustable- you have something else.. Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns Should be close. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle. Sounds like it wants more fuel for sure. The DR doesn't like to idle below 1300 (stock setting is 1500) so make sure you have the idle screw/rpm correct (like Feelers said) before adjusting the idle mixture screw. If after all that nothing changes...time to take it back off. The pilot jet might have something in it, float level might be wrong, or an air bleed is plugged.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle. Because there isn't much vacuum at idle fuel level makes a big diffrence in how it pulls the fuel in. Once you crack the throttles open you are not using the idle circuit as much and are moving onto the needle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?
Good luck! Carb problems suck!
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:29 PM   #69300
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Originally Posted by greystoke
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe) The stock needle isn't adjustable- you have something else.. Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns Should be close. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle. Sounds like it wants more fuel for sure. The DR doesn't like to idle below 1300 (stock setting is 1500) so make sure you have the idle screw/rpm correct (like Feelers said) before adjusting the idle mixture screw. If after all that nothing changes...time to take it back off. The pilot jet might have something in it, float level might be wrong, or an air bleed is plugged.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle. Because there isn't much vacuum at idle fuel level makes a big diffrence in how it pulls the fuel in. Once you crack the throttles open you are not using the idle circuit as much and are moving onto the needle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?

Good luck! Carb problems suck!
1. The OP is in Oz ... DR650's come stock with an adjustable needle there.

2. 2. 5 turns out seems very rich to me. Should be more like 1 to 1.5 turns
if everything else is right.

3. I'd bet Pilot Jet is clogged. Pull it out and clean it and flush out the circuit below the jet too.

4. Make sure no crud below float needle.

Good luck!
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