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Old 09-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #69301
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I have one like that and it's not going to last very long if used to pick up the DR650. It's just barely adequate for the G450X we have.
+1
Also, those type of stands have the leverage ratios designed for lifting a 230 pound bike. You will probably find that even if you can get the stand under the bike it will take 2 people standing on the pedal to get it in the air.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:55 AM   #69302
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezagm4 View Post
Thanks for those numbers! That definitely helps.

Rather than spend that at a dealer, if you're really right down in Corvalis (I'm in Salem), come up one weekend soon and we can just do it at my place. I have all the tools, including a welder to shorten the side stand.

Rob
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:11 AM   #69303
twigsnapper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Push the bike up onto two pieces of wood - one under the front tire and one under the rear tire. Use whatever size you need to get the bike high enough to slide that stand under!
Reminds me of the farmer who got a new donkey and when he tried to get him thru the stable door the donkey's ears hit the sill causing him to recoil. When he told the neighbor, that guy said to dig a few inches into the door's stoop to create some clearance. The farmer laughed at him, " you stupid shit, his legs aint to long, his ears are too tall ".
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #69304
Minsk99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe). Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you just had the carb off its a possibility. It's hard to do the WD-40 spray test since the bike is not holding idle. So, I'd start by making sure you have a good seal on the boots and that they are tightened down. Also, check to see that the choke cable is set properly and that the black, plastic housing is screwed on correctly.

Perhaps one of the carb guru inmates can give you better direction than I, but just some food for thought.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:53 PM   #69305
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Is there some special knack to getting the bike up on a stand? I've got a stand like the one below but in the low position it is still too tall to slide under the sump. It's a good inch or two too high, bike is standard, not lowered or anything. The stand has a rubber top to it which makes sliding the bike on from the side very difficult. Is there a knack to this or do I just need to man up and wrestle beast onto it or am I missing something?
Buy an oxy/acetylene welder and make your own stuff for the rest of your life. The handle rotates so it can be used in any of the four directions on the bike, LF, RF, LR, RR. It's also removeable for the times it needs to be flat to fit in a tight spot; like packing for a trip.



Gotta go, it's warm and sunny again.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:01 PM   #69306
deathu
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Weak spark?

Hi,

I need some directions for testing the ignition system, eventually without special tools. It seems to me that my '98 DR650 produces a weak, yellowish spark (tested using a spare spark plug connected in turn to each of the HT leads). Of course the ground electrode was held in contact with the engine block.

How exactly should the spark of a healthy DR650 ignition system look like? I would have expected a blue/bluish spark.
I measured the resistance between the spark plug cap electrodes and it seems to be in spec as per the service manual I have.

Any directions for diagnosing the ignition system or a weak spark condition in particular, are more than welcome.

The bike runs decently well now, but the plugs are always fouling with carbon. The carb is bone stock, rebuilt using brand new internal components, so I would exclude a rich mixture condition. If I understand correctly a weak spark can also cause fouling...

Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:02 PM   #69307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe). Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle.


Am I looking at the problem wrong?
Greystroke,

It sounds like you simply need to adjust your idle screw. The idle screw is also the throttle stop screw which will essentially hold your throttle open slightly. It actually sounds like your throttle is too closed at idle - which is decreasing the airflow which is decreasing the vacuum which is decreasing fuel flow. That's why blocking the snorkel might be helping. Is 2 1/4 turns normal for the fuel screw? I thought it was more like 1 1/2 turns....
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:15 PM   #69308
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe) The stock needle isn't adjustable- you have something else.. Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns Should be close. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle. Sounds like it wants more fuel for sure. The DR doesn't like to idle below 1300 (stock setting is 1500) so make sure you have the idle screw/rpm correct (like Feelers said) before adjusting the idle mixture screw. If after all that nothing changes...time to take it back off. The pilot jet might have something in it, float level might be wrong, or an air bleed is plugged.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle. Because there isn't much vacuum at idle fuel level makes a big diffrence in how it pulls the fuel in. Once you crack the throttles open you are not using the idle circuit as much and are moving onto the needle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?
Good luck! Carb problems suck!
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:29 PM   #69309
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Originally Posted by greystoke
Hi guys.

I've put my carb back together after giving a thorough clean, changed all the o-rings and replaced the idle jet with a stocker (42.5). Stock needle not worn and on 3rd clip (stock setting I believe) The stock needle isn't adjustable- you have something else.. Fuel screw turned 2 1/4 turns Should be close. No airbox mods. As far as I can tell it's as Suzuki wanted it. Managed to get her fired up with some coaxing but it won't idle. Revs just drop and putt-putt-ptuh . If I hold the throttle the tiniest bit it'll keep going. It won't start with the choke on at all and if I put it on after starting it makes no difference to revs.

But!!! If I cover 3/4 of the snorkel with my hand it will idle. Sounds like it wants more fuel for sure. The DR doesn't like to idle below 1300 (stock setting is 1500) so make sure you have the idle screw/rpm correct (like Feelers said) before adjusting the idle mixture screw. If after all that nothing changes...time to take it back off. The pilot jet might have something in it, float level might be wrong, or an air bleed is plugged.

I'm not a mechanic but to me this sounds like it's running too lean? (too much air?). I can raise the needle and keep turning the mixture screw but to me from what i've read this setup 'should' run and i'm wondering whether there's something else wrong.

There's no fuel coming out the overflow (as it has in the past) and if I turn the drain screw fuel comes out so the float bowl appears to be filling and shutting off correctly. The rubber tipped float needle looked fine and was thoroughly cleaned. If the float wasn't set correctly not allowing enough fuel in i'd guess that the problem would be more stop-start than affecting idle. Because there isn't much vacuum at idle fuel level makes a big diffrence in how it pulls the fuel in. Once you crack the throttles open you are not using the idle circuit as much and are moving onto the needle.

Am I looking at the problem wrong?

Good luck! Carb problems suck!
1. The OP is in Oz ... DR650's come stock with an adjustable needle there.

2. 2. 5 turns out seems very rich to me. Should be more like 1 to 1.5 turns
if everything else is right.

3. I'd bet Pilot Jet is clogged. Pull it out and clean it and flush out the circuit below the jet too.

4. Make sure no crud below float needle.

Good luck!
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:28 PM   #69310
Mongle
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What the heck...why do they get adjustable needles?! I have my idle mixture screw at about 1 3/4 and it runs good; figured another half turn wouldn't make it not run. Mine actually idled better at 2 but had rich bog right off idle. It is a give and take with the damn things...
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:05 PM   #69311
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
What the heck...why do they get adjustable needles?! .
The real question is "Why are ours not adjustable?" and "Why is there a stupid aluminum blanking plate over our idle mixture screws?" This is the US EPA's approach. Assume we're stupid, then look the other way.

I applaud reducing pollution, but the EPA's approach is .... and nanny state bureacracy.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #69312
greystoke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minsk99 View Post
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you just had the carb off its a possibility. It's hard to do the WD-40 spray test since the bike is not holding idle. So, I'd start by making sure you have a good seal on the boots and that they are tightened down. Also, check to see that the choke cable is set properly and that the black, plastic housing is screwed on correctly.

Perhaps one of the carb guru inmates can give you better direction than I, but just some food for thought.
Will def recheck carb boots. Was a bitch to get it back in. Maybe I futzed the fit. Thanks
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:24 PM   #69313
greystoke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Greystroke,

It sounds like you simply need to adjust your idle screw. The idle screw is also the throttle stop screw which will essentially hold your throttle open slightly. It actually sounds like your throttle is too closed at idle - which is decreasing the airflow which is decreasing the vacuum which is decreasing fuel flow. That's why blocking the snorkel might be helping. Is 2 1/4 turns normal for the fuel screw? I thought it was more like 1 1/2 turns....
The throttle stop as I see is the big screw on the left of the carb? It's just a mechanical screw that prevents the throttle from closing completely isn't it? I tightened that one all the way up but the little bit that sticks up only extends about 5mm. Not enough to affect the idle. I can extend the main housing but this still seems like a hack and not the root cause.

Will try reducing the turns. I was working from the BST Bible which says 2'ish but they're using the KTM needle.

Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:30 PM   #69314
805gregg
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Oddometer: 1,527
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I need to stop trying to talk myself into a lesser bike and just find a way to make an 800XC happen. I got to ride one about a year ago when the demo truck came through Newport Beach (when I was in SoCal). Was really nice. Though there's a good deal on an 07 DL1000 up in Portland that I'd love to snag if I had $5k. Has luggage and everything.

My rear 705 is just about shot.. I have a new one in the garage I need to swap on. Might do that tomorrow. That and check all my motor mounts to try to figure out that weird vibration. I also wonder if the cam chain tensioner might not be doing it's job, since it's the automatic (stock) one.

Rob

Weight is your enemy off road, why not put a 790 kit on a DR and have a light weight powerfull bike $680, that's what I plan.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:41 PM   #69315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Well, in all fairness the XR650L is pretty comparable, and my 690 does both MUCH BETTER. But, I do like my DR for what it is.
Except put any weight on the XR and the subframe fails, and the 690, bad vibrations, and anyone like lots of and hard maintance? Get a DR and put a 790 kit it, it will blow the rest away.
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