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Old 09-21-2012, 01:19 PM   #69346
TinkerinWstuff
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Northern Front Range
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I'm about to attempt to change the oil in my shock. It feels like I'm riding a pogo stick it bounces so bad. Anyone who has some advise on this please chime in.
I'm 240lbs without gear, and I do have a heavier spring on it. Should I consider putting a heavier weight oil in, or would stay with the stock oil? I'm not really sure of the oil weight. I'm not going to do a re-valve job or anything, but is there anything that I should replace while I'm in there, ie, a seal or something? I am going to replace the bumper.
Bike is a little over 2.5 yrs old, 35K miles.
Thanks!
as others alluded to yesterday - my opinion is not to waste your time with an oil change. Get the valve stack changed and then reassemble with clean oil. Whether you go through procycle or some local guy - just write the check and thank me later.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:21 PM   #69347
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
i SHOULD know this but I am not confident: I'm thinking of buying a late model, sell the older one [sshhhhhh... don't tell 'er]. I recall that at some point, like maybe 2009, the third gear part was changed, and then we've had several discussions about the subtle change to the NSU fasteners, but in the States what year wuz that ??? Bottom line, what model year incorporated the last useful change?
Those are good questions. I believe the 3rd gear change came in 2006 ..?? not sure. The NSU bolt changes seemed to start showing up in 2010 or 2011, but don't quote me on that either.

Suzuki continue to make subtle changes without notification or documentation. This statement came from "the horses mouth" at American Suzuki in Brea, CA in 2006. Mechanics tend to discover changes once various affected assemblies have been torn into. Several have noted such events here.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:25 PM   #69348
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
My DR subframe failed on my last trip. I'd say that makes em comparable.

As for the 690, you have no clue what you're talking about.
Do you have any details on the sub frame failure? Pics? How did it happen?
How much weight did you have on there? Terrain?

Funny ... seems your stock answer for anyone leveling criticism at KTM is
" ... you have no clue what you're talking about."
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:33 PM   #69349
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
you must be joking
Nope. I killed my battery and gave the big blue pig a shove. It fired right up, in 1st, on wet pavement.

It'd be even easier with another bike/vehicle around. Get a pull/push.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:53 PM   #69350
eRRmmm
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
as others alluded to yesterday - my opinion is not to waste your time with an oil change. Get the valve stack changed and then reassemble with clean oil. Whether you go through procycle or some local guy - just write the check and thank me later.
In my opinion (having done it recently) an oil change isn't necessarily a waste of time. For my bike, weight, riding style and terrain, the spring/oil change is a worthwhile and cheap improvement over stock, and will do me for a while at least.

A litre of shock oil is $14. Regas will be about $20.

So at $34 for a quick and easy oil change I'd suggest give it a go and see how it works.

I guess it's up to how much the OP wants to spend. If you've got another $160 laying about then no doubt a gold valve or similar is going to be a better solution. Or a full shock rebuild with adjustable rebound even better. Or an aftermarket shock maybe better again. Or put the DR engine in a KTM chassis...
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:02 PM   #69351
eRRmmm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Those are good questions. I believe the 3rd gear change came in 2006 ..?? not sure. The NSU bolt changes seemed to start showing up in 2010 or 2011, but don't quote me on that either.

Suzuki continue to make subtle changes without notification or documentation. This statement came from "the horses mouth" at American Suzuki in Brea, CA in 2006. Mechanics tend to discover changes once various affected assemblies have been torn into. Several have noted such events here.
There are a few 2010/11 bikes in the 3rd gear failure list, some very low km, so the part number change for the gear is irrelevant. I'm undecided on whether I want to invest in the Procycle/Nova 3rd gear set but if that is the solution to the 3rd gear problems (yet to be proven but looks promising) that would make the DR truly as bulletproof as everyone says they are.

My 2010 had allen head bolts holding the NSU on (which is reportedly the "upgrade") but one of them was barely tight, so this fix is also irrelevant - loctite is still required.
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:54 PM   #69352
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Do you have any details on the sub frame failure? Pics? How did it happen?
How much weight did you have on there? Terrain?

Funny ... seems your stock answer for anyone leveling criticism at KTM is
" ... you have no clue what you're talking about."
Welcome back AG. Play nice.


I would also like to know how the steel subframe of Albie's DR failed. I know of Jammin Jay's failures, but we all know the punishment his subframe has endured in overloading, crashes, and mileage. Even Jay admits to the extreme levels of service in his multi-year trip.

I cannot think of another bike's subframe than can do real off-road and can withstand the abuse that the DR absorbs and recover within a reasonable budget. The DR's subframe can be welded by anybody with a torch or a buzzbox if it fails. Jay proved this.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:00 PM   #69353
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
My 2010 had allen head bolts holding the NSU on (which is reportedly the "upgrade") but one of them was barely tight, so this fix is also irrelevant - loctite is still required.
Mine are Loctited red AND safety-wired. This engine is going to the grave with it's NSU cemented in place, working or not. One less degree of freedom to deal with.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:10 PM   #69354
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
There are a few 2010/11 bikes in the 3rd gear failure list, some very low km, so the part number change for the gear is irrelevant. I'm undecided on whether I want to invest in the Procycle/Nova 3rd gear set but if that is the solution to the 3rd gear problems (yet to be proven but looks promising) that would make the DR truly as bulletproof as everyone says they are.

My 2010 had allen head bolts holding the NSU on (which is reportedly the "upgrade") but one of them was barely tight, so this fix is also irrelevant - loctite is still required.
I was chatting to the guy from NZ, who freights his DRZ400 over here a few times a year for rides, and was here for the TK Ride, who got the wide ratio gears set made for his DRZ from Nova. He talks to them occasionally, and they can see no issues with the stock DR650 gears. They are of course happy to make the replacements. The actual failure mode is still unknown, and the gear failure may just be a symptom.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:38 PM   #69355
Thumper Dan
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movement sprocket carrier bearing???

[IMG][/IMG]

I noticed when putting in new tyre on the other day that this has movement in this area. However, I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to DR's so thought I should get some feedback from the pro's. Where I'm pointing to there is a degree of movement but I think it should be like this? What I'm trying to say is.............I don't have a clue!!

thanks

PS: sorry for the oversized pic
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:56 PM   #69356
thetable
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You're pointing to a spacer, not the bearing. It will pull right out, and the bearing is behind it. If the bearing has play, then replace it.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:59 PM   #69357
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Where I'm pointing to there is a degree of movement but I think it should be like this?
That's just the wheel spacer. It's only held to the wheel by the dust seal - it will pop right out. What you do want to check while it it apart is the bearing that is under the spacer. Pull the spacer out, stick your finger in the center of the bearing and rotate the inner race of the bearing. If you feel looseness or especially roughness replace the bearing.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:00 PM   #69358
dljocky
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Yes, I've decided to go with the valving stack for the rear shock.
Seems the best way to go. I'll probably do it in the next few months.




Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
as others alluded to yesterday - my opinion is not to waste your time with an oil change. Get the valve stack changed and then reassemble with clean oil. Whether you go through procycle or some local guy - just write the check and thank me later.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:40 PM   #69359
TinkerinWstuff
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Location: Colorado Northern Front Range
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Nope. I killed my battery and gave the big blue pig a shove. It fired right up, in 1st, on wet pavement.

It'd be even easier with another bike/vehicle around. Get a pull/push.
I killed mine and couldn't get the engine to turn over in 5th gear downhill. Just locked up the tire
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:28 PM   #69360
Taikimoto
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My rear shock ('02) seems to have blown the seal head, as fluid (all of it over a few days I imagine) leaked out. When I sit on it it bounces up and down like an old cadillac, only using the spring I assume for support.

Heres my question: Should I go ahead and buy a replacement seal head and reuse everything else (I am looking at cost effective here) or is the seal head salvageable and the whole shock possibly just needs a tear down, cleaning and reassembly. Do any of the other internals wear down ( want to reuse as much as possible). I dont want to put $300+ into a complete rebuild kit if all it needs is either a new seal head or just a cleaning.

Of course this is all speculation on my part as I have not taken the shock off the bike to look at it. Should that be my first step or is what I am describing pretty accurate?

Thanks for any info.
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