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Old 09-21-2012, 05:10 PM   #69346
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
There are a few 2010/11 bikes in the 3rd gear failure list, some very low km, so the part number change for the gear is irrelevant. I'm undecided on whether I want to invest in the Procycle/Nova 3rd gear set but if that is the solution to the 3rd gear problems (yet to be proven but looks promising) that would make the DR truly as bulletproof as everyone says they are.

My 2010 had allen head bolts holding the NSU on (which is reportedly the "upgrade") but one of them was barely tight, so this fix is also irrelevant - loctite is still required.
I was chatting to the guy from NZ, who freights his DRZ400 over here a few times a year for rides, and was here for the TK Ride, who got the wide ratio gears set made for his DRZ from Nova. He talks to them occasionally, and they can see no issues with the stock DR650 gears. They are of course happy to make the replacements. The actual failure mode is still unknown, and the gear failure may just be a symptom.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:38 PM   #69347
Thumper Dan
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movement sprocket carrier bearing???

[IMG][/IMG]

I noticed when putting in new tyre on the other day that this has movement in this area. However, I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to DR's so thought I should get some feedback from the pro's. Where I'm pointing to there is a degree of movement but I think it should be like this? What I'm trying to say is.............I don't have a clue!!

thanks

PS: sorry for the oversized pic
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:56 PM   #69348
thetable
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You're pointing to a spacer, not the bearing. It will pull right out, and the bearing is behind it. If the bearing has play, then replace it.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:59 PM   #69349
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Where I'm pointing to there is a degree of movement but I think it should be like this?
That's just the wheel spacer. It's only held to the wheel by the dust seal - it will pop right out. What you do want to check while it it apart is the bearing that is under the spacer. Pull the spacer out, stick your finger in the center of the bearing and rotate the inner race of the bearing. If you feel looseness or especially roughness replace the bearing.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:00 PM   #69350
dljocky
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Yes, I've decided to go with the valving stack for the rear shock.
Seems the best way to go. I'll probably do it in the next few months.




Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
as others alluded to yesterday - my opinion is not to waste your time with an oil change. Get the valve stack changed and then reassemble with clean oil. Whether you go through procycle or some local guy - just write the check and thank me later.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:40 PM   #69351
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Nope. I killed my battery and gave the big blue pig a shove. It fired right up, in 1st, on wet pavement.

It'd be even easier with another bike/vehicle around. Get a pull/push.
I killed mine and couldn't get the engine to turn over in 5th gear downhill. Just locked up the tire
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:28 PM   #69352
Taikimoto
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My rear shock ('02) seems to have blown the seal head, as fluid (all of it over a few days I imagine) leaked out. When I sit on it it bounces up and down like an old cadillac, only using the spring I assume for support.

Heres my question: Should I go ahead and buy a replacement seal head and reuse everything else (I am looking at cost effective here) or is the seal head salvageable and the whole shock possibly just needs a tear down, cleaning and reassembly. Do any of the other internals wear down ( want to reuse as much as possible). I dont want to put $300+ into a complete rebuild kit if all it needs is either a new seal head or just a cleaning.

Of course this is all speculation on my part as I have not taken the shock off the bike to look at it. Should that be my first step or is what I am describing pretty accurate?

Thanks for any info.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:31 PM   #69353
BergDonk
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Cush Drive Bearings

Some have issues, like me, some don't.

A somewhat consolidated discussion is here:
http://drriders.com/topic5575.html
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:45 PM   #69354
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
i SHOULD know this but I am not confident: I'm thinking of buying a late model, sell the older one [sshhhhhh... don't tell 'er]. I recall that at some point, like maybe 2009, the third gear part was changed, and then we've had several discussions about the subtle change to the NSU fasteners, but in the States what year wuz that ??? Bottom line, what model year incorporated the last useful change?
whenever it was that the 3rd gear part was changed, it wasn't changed due to the disintegration problems, imo - i believe it was simply a subcontractor vendor change. i say this cuz there have been plenty of "blow up" issues since this happened. and, i read of one instance where the nsu screws were different. but they were still loose; the loctite fix was never implement, it seems.

some time during the 2003 year, i think, suzuki changed the cylinder base gasket, and there was no starter clutch torque limiter in 1998 & early 1999, but these are both rectified easily enough, and i don't think it would warrant replacing the bike for these issues. imo, the last model year to incorporate useful changes was 1996.

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Old 09-21-2012, 07:47 PM   #69355
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamlander View Post
you may want to seriously consider bringing a better seat along (12mm wrench). for some of us, the factory seat is a real torture rack.
15-20 minutes was about all i could take w/the stock seat.

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Old 09-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #69356
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Do you have any details on the sub frame failure? Pics? How did it happen?
How much weight did you have on there? Terrain?

Funny ... seems your stock answer for anyone leveling criticism at KTM is
" ... you have no clue what you're talking about."
Broke one of the tabs the grab bar bolts to, and one of the upper braces the fender rests on. Probably 20 - 25 lbs, some pretty rough terrain.

The stock answer is there because a lot of people don't know what the hell they're talking about. I prefer the facts over making shit up.

Funny........ how many times have you been banned?
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:58 PM   #69357
Mike_drz
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Laugh

woo, that's a lot of uk bob smith jumping across the sea, we are in very differnatial time zones. here there, thx to today's networks


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Old 09-21-2012, 08:05 PM   #69358
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I was chatting to the guy from NZ, who freights his DRZ400 over here a few times a year for rides, and was here for the TK Ride, who got the wide ratio gears set made for his DRZ from Nova. He talks to them occasionally, and they can see no issues with the stock DR650 gears. They are of course happy to make the replacements. The actual failure mode is still unknown, and the gear failure may just be a symptom.
when i first heard of the nova fix being worked out, i thought it was wery cool. then i saw the prices, and i thought, mebbe not so wery cool. now, having a bit of time to think on it, i am not sure i'd do it even if it were free. i wonder what the loading of these super-strong gears would do to the rest of the gearbox. as has been noted, the actual failure mode is still not known. while the failure is certainly catastrophic, the overwhelming majority of these bikes never have this issue. w/o knowing the true cause, this could be another of those "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" cases... i think i'd wanna be doing the entire gearbox if i was gonna do a single gear. and, i can imagine how much that would cost.

it will be interesting to see what results the guinea pigs who try the 3rd gear sets will be having...

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Old 09-21-2012, 08:06 PM   #69359
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taikimoto View Post
Should I go ahead and buy a replacement seal head and reuse everything else (I am looking at cost effective here) or is the seal head salvageable and the whole shock possibly just needs a tear down, cleaning and reassembly.
Of course, the only way to know what you have to do to fix it is to totally disassemble it and inspect everything. From my experience it's usually damage or wear to the shaft that causes the seal to fail.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:10 PM   #69360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Good luck with the project guys

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