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Old 09-25-2012, 08:57 AM   #69451
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
you might even try to find it in gallon size. The stuff is great to have around for cleaning any kind of metal small parts. It will eat carbon and paint off in no time!

Edit: Wear gloves. Carb cleaner will eat your hands up! it also soaks into your finger nails and they will stink for days...ask me how I know...

I've used the gallon can for years. +1 for using heavier rubber gloves (the medical gloves will disolve) when handling this stuff.


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Old 09-25-2012, 08:57 AM   #69452
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Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Thanks for the good info, Jeff. Sounds like it's the stator then.

Question on riding with generator disconnected: how can I ride for long when the battery would not be getting charged from the generator? I figure I can go about two hours before battery totally discharges, right?
It does sound like a stator problem albeit an unusual one. The proof will be in the actual fixing of it.

If you ride with your lights unplugged your battery will not be depleted. The source coil produces power for the spark energy. The battery is not required to keep it running except for a very small amount of DC current that is routed through the key switch to the CDI as a theft deterrent. You would want to do a minimum amount of stops and starts as running the starter motor will deplete the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Well, now, I'm not getting the spark to fail. Bike is running for about 10 minutes with no problems, this is with replacement CDI and spare rectifier and 1 new spark plug. But I did check power source coil resistance after running and it comes to 0.6 ohms, pick-up coil comes to 245 ohms. Is the 'pick-up' coil the charging coil, the one that's wound on the engine case?

Jeff, to replace the stator, I need to get these 6 allen bolts out, right? Anything else? Those bolts are going to be really tough, right? How do you suggest I remove them without air tools?
Those 6 allen bolts hold the starter clutch to the back of the flywheel. Don't remove them! The stator is the round thing in the case cover with all the copper wire windings.
You can't easily tell by looking at it but there are 3 charging coils wound onto the iron core and the source coil is wound on top of them. The pickup coil is a small separate coil off the the side of the stator.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:01 AM   #69453
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Originally Posted by thetable View Post
Did you read through the linked thread? Looks like 90% are saying that it works better, and no need to worry about getting rubber in it.
90% of people that don't have the right carb dip. Most home people are cheap and wont spend the money for the good stuff. Zepresto 5 gallons is $375. Go to any carb shop/engine shop...you wont find Pine Sol there.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #69454
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Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
90% of people that don't have the right carb dip. Most home people are cheap and wont spend the money for the good stuff. Zepresto 5 gallons is $375. Go to any carb shop/engine shop...you wont find Pine Sol there.
That's because a shop would need something that works quickly. If something 1/30 the price works as long as you leave it overnight, I have the time to let it sit out overnight.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:27 AM   #69455
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
That's because a shop would need something that works quickly. If something 1/30 the price works as long as you leave it overnight, I have the time to let it sit out overnight.
And I understand that. But, don't tell me it works better. That is why I said buy a gallon or 2-3 cans and make your own little dip. People say it works better because they try spraying a can on...it evaporates and quits cleaning in 2-3 minutes and when they look at it it is still dirty. You have to DIP the parts then wash them off.

I'm trying to help the guy out who says he can't get Pine Sol and everyone wants to argue about how great Pine Sol is? WTF? Then you all try to convice me how great it is...really? I do this for a living. I don't spend the money on the good stuff for shits and grins...I do it because it works.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:27 AM   #69456
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Suzuki released the 2013 DR650!... Take a look
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:40 AM   #69457
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Suzuki released the 2013 DR650!... Take a look
I would like to be an engineer on the DR650 team.
Engineer log:
Jan. 1st. - Going to design the 2013 DR650
Jan. 2nd – not changing anything- send last years engineering plans to the manufacturing plant
Jan. 3rd through Dec 31- Hang out, ride bike, collect pay check…..
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:43 AM   #69458
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Sounds about right. The specs sheet does say Drum brake in the rear. Thats got to be a typo.

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I would like to be an engineer on the DR650 team.
Engineer log:
Jan. 1st. - Going to design the 2013 DR650
Jan. 2nd – not changing anything- send last years engineering plans to the manufacturing plant
Jan. 3rd through Dec 31- Hang out, ride bike, collect pay check…..
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:56 AM   #69459
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Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Then went back to the float assembly. Before setting the float height again just did a little inspection and notices the piping in the float assembly has a tiny jet in it.



Which comes out here...



Eyeballing it against the light I couldn't see through it so drowned it in carb cleaner and used a tiny dental brush to gently pry the jet. Nothing came out. Blowing through it didn't do much but eventually I thought I could see a tiny dot of light when holding it up to the light. I don't know what this circuit is for or whether it's relevent but figured it has to do something.
The jet in question meters fuel to the cold start enrichment circuit.
Quote:
Then fit the float assembly back and checked the float height. Float height looked OK from what I understand but when holding the carb the right way up so the float is on the bottom I lifted the float with my finger to see if it moved freely. It went up fine but when lowering the float the jet stayed in the hole until the tab touches the wire loop.
Do you mean the float needle?.
Quote:
Choke still prevents it from starting.
Technically, BST40 carbs use cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes (regardless of what the lettering on the lever might say). A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in. In any case, if the engine wont start from cold with the cold start enrichment lever activated, then it is likely that the fuel portion of the circuit is clogged somewhere, meaning that air will be let in (for the fast idle), but not enough fuel (making the mixture leaner instead of richer). This brings us to the jet you were cleaning. It's likely to still be dirty. On the other side of it, the fact that the engine will start from cold without the cold start enrichment circuit active means that the idle mixture is too rich, and should be readjusted when the engine is warm via the method I outlined in a previous post (or set to ~2.5-3.5% exhaust CO).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #69460
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Originally Posted by deathu View Post
OOps! for some reason, it seems that my image was not visible... here it is again:
My pics are taken from both sides of the bike, the hose goes straight back along the right frame rail. This is stock, there is no filter.

This:


Goes here:
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:01 AM   #69461
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
And I understand that. But, don't tell me it works better. That is why I said buy a gallon or 2-3 cans and make your own little dip. People say it works better because they try spraying a can on...it evaporates and quits cleaning in 2-3 minutes and when they look at it it is still dirty. You have to DIP the parts then wash them off.

I'm trying to help the guy out who says he can't get Pine Sol and everyone wants to argue about how great Pine Sol is? WTF? Then you all try to convice me how great it is...really? I do this for a living. I don't spend the money on the good stuff for shits and grins...I do it because it works.
I didn't think anyone was saying it worked better than the expensive stuff that's actually designed specifically for cleaning carbs. I thought the general consensus was that it's good enough if you let it work long enough, and it's significantly cheaper.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:40 AM   #69462
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Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Bob808: I have a completely unmolested BST40 I took off my 09 when it had 42 miles on it. It's been sitting on a box on my bench for 2 years. If interested PM me - I'll make you a sweet deal on it. (USA only)

FB
FB- If Bob808 is not intererested, I am. PM me.

Thanks............shu

ps: Your PM box does not seem to be accepting messages.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:46 AM   #69463
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Jeff, to replace the stator, I need to get these 6 allen bolts out, right? Anything else? Those bolts are going to be really tough, right? How do you suggest I remove them without air tools?
For the record, that's the rotor (it rotates) not the the stator (it's static).
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:08 PM   #69464
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Originally Posted by shu View Post
FB- If Bob808 is not intererested, I am. PM me. ,,,Thanks............sh ps: Your PM box does not seem to be accepting messages.
Lo siento. fixed.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:15 PM   #69465
Jammin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
It does sound like a stator problem albeit an unusual one. The proof will be in the actual fixing of it.

If you ride with your lights unplugged your battery will not be depleted. The source coil produces power for the spark energy. The battery is not required to keep it running except for a very small amount of DC current that is routed through the key switch to the CDI as a theft deterrent. You would want to do a minimum amount of stops and starts as running the starter motor will deplete the battery.

Those 6 allen bolts hold the starter clutch to the back of the flywheel. Don't remove them! The stator is the round thing in the case cover with all the copper wire windings.
You can't easily tell by looking at it but there are 3 charging coils wound onto the iron core and the source coil is wound on top of them. The pickup coil is a small separate coil off the the side of the stator.
Thanks for explaining what the source coil does. Yeah, to make it back to Nairobi on the bike would mean a lot of stop/starts, so best to leave the bike here. I'm taking the stator with the case cover and will get the replacement properly installed and bring it back.

Ok, haha, yeah, now I remember that that's the rotor, not the stator. Was getting confused :/ Good I dont have to remove that. Replacing stator should be relatively easy then.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
For the record, that's the rotor (it rotates) not the the stator (it's static).
Now I know
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