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Old 09-24-2012, 09:16 PM   #69481
troyfromtexas
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Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
:

i see you are letting go of your DR are you selling any parts / separately ? If you are send a list of parts / cost. I am in the market for some DR 650 upgrades without blowing my budget.
Hey Jim,

Thanks for the question. At the moment, I'm trying to sell the complete bike. If I do sell the bike complete, I will have some of the original stock parts that I will sell once I return home. The original parts are in new condition and are in storage at the moment. If I am unable to sell my bike, I will bring her back home with me. Then I may rebuild her as a stock bike. I would then sell all the goodies. I'd be sure to post on this thread.

Thanks for the inquiry,

Troy
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:21 PM   #69482
troyfromtexas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Troy!! Congrats on a great tour!! A few of us here have followed your ride from the start. Best of luck with the sale ... probably a local will end up buying your bike. Maybe contact the local riding clubs there.

I hope everyone here takes time to check out your report!

Cheers!
Cheers Grifter. Thanks for following. It's been a ride.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:43 PM   #69483
greystoke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Hey Greystoke,

I just want to say that the total height of my idle adjustment/throttle stop screw is about 10mm above the bracket. This is the outer screw length (9mm) plus inner pin height (1mm). When your throttle is completely closed, does the throttle rest on the throttle stop screw, or touch it at all? It should - unlike in that picture a few pages back. I don't mean to beat a dead horse though, so onwards!

Really, the only things that should affect idle are the pilot/idle jet, idle adjustment screw, fuel/air screw, and float level.
Your pilot jet is known good.
Your fuel/air screw is probably fine.
You don't like your idle adjustment screw anymore!
So, I guess you need to pull the carb apart and check if you missed anything - any little spacers or o-rings? Check the float level?
You could take out the fuel/air screw without taking out the carb and see if the spring, washer, and o-ring are on it first...

Did you change anything else on the bike at the same time as cleaning the carb?
Do you have a tach by chance?

Thanks for the measurements mate. Here's a shot of mine. Looks pretty much the same with pin wound up as far as possible.



A bit of an update.....

Pulled the carb again and checked every jet and gave them another clean for good measure. Everything looked fine.
Gave the idle circuit a good soaking in carb cleaner spray as best I could with no compressor to blow through. Let it sit for a bit then did it again.

Then went back to the float assembly. Before setting the float height again just did a little inspection and notices the piping in the float assembly has a tiny jet in it.



Which comes out here...



Eyeballing it against the light I couldn't see through it so drowned it in carb cleaner and used a tiny dental brush to gently pry the jet. Nothing came out. Blowing through it didn't do much but eventually I thought I could see a tiny dot of light when holding it up to the light. I don't know what this circuit is for or whether it's relevent but figured it has to do something.

Then fit the float assembly back and checked the float height. Float height looked OK from what I understand but when holding the carb the right way up so the float is on the bottom I lifted the float with my finger to see if it moved freely. It went up fine but when lowering the float the jet stayed in the hole until the tab touches the wire loop. Then it drops with a tick. Tried it a few more times and realised it was sticking in the hole. Pulled the jet out and saw a tiny bit of varnish on one of the four posts around the jet. Cleaned that off and tried again. Now the jet morves freely. That must be some pretty fine tolerance there.

Put the carb back together and reinstalled in the bike.
Now it starts easier. Choke still prevents it from starting. Warmed it up a bit then let the throttle drop. Stalled.
Started it again and warmed it up for a few more mins. Let it drop. SUCCESS

It's idling by itself, sitting on the throttle stop. I'm guessing it was the jet not dropping freely that was the main issue.

Thanks tons for all your input fellas. Legends, all of ya

Here's a little vid. Can anyone guestimate whether that idle sounds about right?

http://youtu.be/M7QXJg4r3NY
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:52 PM   #69484
eakins
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do a pinesol clean on the carb. way back when, i thought my carb was clean until i did and was amazed how much dirt came out. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117

i now also run a small pour of Lucas fuel treatment through all my full tanks of gas. after another year and 1/2 i pulled my carb to look at it clean everywhere. did a precautionary pinsol clean and i had only tiny amount of dirt. it's oil based (not a distillate) so it's not harsh. my bike is happier when i use it. goes in everything i have with a motor. http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...catid=2&iid=26
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:50 AM   #69485
Feelers
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
Thanks for the measurements mate. Here's a shot of mine. Looks pretty much the same with pin wound up as far as possible.


A bit of an update.....
Well done, Greystoke!!!

So, it could have been the sticky valve, weird float passage thingy, or dirty idle circuit?
The idle adjuster does look fine. Thanks for the photo.
My ear isn't really calibrated to rpm but it sounds good to me!
All that's left is minor adjustments for ease of starting and no stalling!!! Oh, and fixing the choke.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:49 AM   #69486
Bob808
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I replaced the bars with ones that are a bit longer, like 1 cm each side. That caused some problems when turning right but as I was working on a friends freewind a few nights ago I noticed that his were routed on the right side so that gave me the idea. I rerouted the cables and now I have plenty slack. It isn't a cable problem, I've adjusted them properly for sure. I'll make more tests in the evening after I get off work. Thank you all for your help.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:54 AM   #69487
deathu
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Location: Bucharest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

Can anybody please tell me if there should be any hose attached to the highlighed port on the stock carb?


I just noticed today that this port is not connected with anything in my case. I guess it's a port for ventilation purposes, an I wonder if a hose is missing on my bike.
OOps! for some reason, it seems that my image was not visible... here it is again:


or:
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:31 AM   #69488
greystoke
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Location: Brisneyland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Well done, Greystoke!!!

So, it could have been the sticky valve, weird float passage thingy, or dirty idle circuit?
The idle adjuster does look fine. Thanks for the photo.
My ear isn't really calibrated to rpm but it sounds good to me!
All that's left is minor adjustments for ease of starting and no stalling!!! Oh, and fixing the choke.
I'd put money on the float needle sticking being the main issue. Took it around the block a few times and seemed ok. It's always been a little rough and decided to raise the needle one clip, something i've been meaning to do for ages and now she starts first time every time (today). I'd go so far as to say it feels better than it ever has. Fingers crossed she loves me in the morning.

Thanks again to ER70S-2, Feelers, motolab, Adv Grifter, Mongle and anyone else I missed that suggested stuff. Really appreciated
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:58 AM   #69489
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
...If you can't solve this (carb probs) ... I'd buy a nice BST Carb off someone here ... preferably a nice virginal one that hasn't been "Tuned". Good luck Bob and good work getting her running! You are almost there!
Bob808: I have a completely unmolested BST40 I took off my 09 when it had 42 miles on it. It's been sitting on a box on my bench for 2 years. If interested PM me - I'll make you a sweet deal on it. (USA only)

FB
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:19 AM   #69490
TRAVELGUY
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Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
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I understand what your saying. I bought and shipped a used DL650 to Costa Rica and rode it for two years. Then sold it for $3000 more than my purchase price and that was a very good deal for the buyer. Importation duties in many countries really add value. With shipping cost and taxes it only cost me $1000 to have it there for the two years.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by troyfromtexas View Post
Hi Refokus,

Perhaps I'm being optimistic. However, I'm pricing the bike taking into consideration the modifications and the market price of a similar bike in Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil, the three countries to which I'm closest at the moment. In Paraguay a new DR650 runs about US$9,000, in Argentina about $10,000 and in Brazil probably $13,000. So even a one year old bike with 24,000 miles is within reason. On MercardoLibre, the ebay of Latin America, there are a few 1999 DR650s with between 40-60,000km selling for US$4-5,000. In all of these countries it is hard to find or import quality modifications. The import duties often double the price of the item. While this bike does have 24,000 miles, it has been maintained tightly. And it is running perfectly.

Thanks for the feedback. If I am unable to sell her, I'll just bring her home with me.

Troy
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:35 AM   #69491
greystoke
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Location: Brisneyland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
do a pinesol clean on the carb. way back when, i thought my carb was clean until i did and was amazed how much dirt came out. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117

i now also run a small pour of Lucas fuel treatment through all my full tanks of gas. after another year and 1/2 i pulled my carb to look at it clean everywhere. did a precautionary pinsol clean and i had only tiny amount of dirt. it's oil based (not a distillate) so it's not harsh. my bike is happier when i use it. goes in everything i have with a motor. http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...catid=2&iid=26
No Pine Sol down here in Oz
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:03 AM   #69492
Jammin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Not the rectifier but quite possible the source coil. The source coil is wound onto the stator over the top of the charging coils. The heat generated by the charging coils could be causing the stator to expand enough to break a connection in the source coil. A new stator is the only practical fix for this.

If the spark does not fail with the 3 yellow wires disconnected I think you have isolated the problem. If you had to, you could ride it a long way with those wires disconnected as long as you also disconnect the headlight and taillight to avoid draining the battery.

Test the resistance of the source coil while the spark is failing.
Thanks for the good info, Jeff. Sounds like it's the stator then.

Question on riding with generator disconnected: how can I ride for long when the battery would not be getting charged from the generator? I figure I can go about two hours before battery totally discharges, right?

I'm in a situation now that I have to get to a major city to take care of something soon (exams for a distance masters), so I'm bussing it back to Nairobi and will get a stator and charging coil shipped in. My mechanic friend there has contacts in the postal department so that I dont have to pay much customs duty

Well, now, I'm not getting the spark to fail. Bike is running for about 10 minutes with no problems, this is with replacement CDI and spare rectifier and 1 new spark plug. But I did check power source coil resistance after running and it comes to 0.6 ohms, pick-up coil comes to 245 ohms. Is the 'pick-up' coil the charging coil, the one that's wound on the engine case?

I removed the left engine case cover with the charging coils in it and will be taking it back with me to Nairobi. Does it look alright? Does it have to be changed?


Jeff, to replace the stator, I need to get these 6 allen bolts out, right? Anything else? Those bolts are going to be really tough, right? How do you suggest I remove them without air tools?


And... who has a good stator and charging coil available??
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:49 AM   #69493
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greystoke View Post
No Pine Sol down here in Oz
Do you guys have carb cleaner? I buy it in the 5 gallon cans so I can dip Holleys, alumn heads and other parts. Carb cleaner works WAY better then Pine Sol. I don't buy into the whole pine sol thing. If it takes all night to work..well then it doesn't work that well. I can dip a carb in 30 minutes and it is CLEAN and even any paint that was on it is gone.

Obviously you don't need 5 gallons of the stuff. But the DR carb is small. Buy 2-3 cans of Spray carb cleaner. Spray them into a coffee can or something similar that wont get ate away. Then dip your carb parts (nothing plastic or rubber!!!) into the carb dip for about an hour. Pull it out and wash it off with the water hose then air dry it with compressed air. Done.

you might even try to find it in gallon size. The stuff is great to have around for cleaning any kind of metal small parts. It will eat carbon and paint off in no time!

Edit: Don't buy the stuff that says "non-chloronated". If you spray it and it evaporates in 2 sec it is junk, get something diffrent. I buy the Zepresto Carb dip in the bulk. Wear gloves. Carb cleaner will eat your hands up! it also soaks into your finger nails and they will stink for days...ask me how I know...

Mongle screwed with this post 09-25-2012 at 08:55 AM
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:52 AM   #69494
thetable
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Location: Western Loudoun Co, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Do you guys have carb cleaner? I buy it in the 5 gallon cans so I can dip Holleys, alumn heads and other parts. Carb cleaner works WAY better then Pine Sol. I don't buy into the whole pine sol thing. If it takes all night to work..well then it doesn't work that well. I can dip a carb in 30 minutes and it is CLEAN and even any paint that was on it is gone.

Obviously you don't need 5 gallons of the stuff. But the DR carb is small. Buy 2-3 cans of Spray carb cleaner. Spray them into a coffee can or something similar that wont get ate away. Then dip your carb parts (nothing plastic or rubber!!!) into the carb dip for about an hour. Pull it out and wash it off with the water hose then air dry it with compressed air. Done.

you might even try to find it in gallon size. The stuff is great to have around for cleaning any kind of metal small parts. It will eat carbon and paint off in no time!
Did you read through the linked thread? Looks like 90% are saying that it works better, and no need to worry about getting rubber in it.
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:57 AM   #69495
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
you might even try to find it in gallon size. The stuff is great to have around for cleaning any kind of metal small parts. It will eat carbon and paint off in no time!

Edit: Wear gloves. Carb cleaner will eat your hands up! it also soaks into your finger nails and they will stink for days...ask me how I know...

I've used the gallon can for years. +1 for using heavier rubber gloves (the medical gloves will disolve) when handling this stuff.


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