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Old 10-03-2012, 11:59 AM   #69796
deathu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What about pulling in the clutch while at speed to see if it is a chassis/driveline or engine thing?
Thanks, I tried that, and the result of all tests seems to indicate the engine itself as the source of the worst vibrations. I mentioned these tests a few posts ago...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This looks like a difficult problem. As mentioned before, sometimes loosening up all the engine mount bolts ... then re-tightening them in the correct order and in steps ... this may help some.

But unfortunately ... it sort of sounds like something in the engine.

Most DR650's, if the drive line is in good shape, run pretty smooth (for a Thumper) at 70 mph to 80 mph. i've had three ... and all were quite smooth at speed.

Can we assume your bike still has standard Suzuki handlebar rubber mounts in place? And, are the rubber mounted foot pegs still in place?
If not ... (and your buddies bike DOES have those things) then that could be the reason for the difference in the two bikes.
I still hold out hope for a cheap and simple solution for you!
All the best!
Can you please tell me the correct order in which the engine mounts are to be tightened? I can't locate this information in the service manual, only the correct torque values are mentioned.

Yes, the bike still has the rubber parts for the handlebar support and footpegs. Actually at sppeeds over 120km/h the vibrations are so bad that you feel them very harsh even through the seat, not only handlebars and footpegs.

On the buddy's bike I felt I could easily cruise all day long at 130 to 140km/h (from a vibration point of view), the only issue would be the lack of wind protection at these speeds.

deathu screwed with this post 10-03-2012 at 12:06 PM
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:26 PM   #69797
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It is the same process as tightening any multi fastener item. Loosen all bolts, tighten one slightly then tighten the one across from the first one, then slightly tighten the next loose one slightly and the one across from that. Then start over the process by tightening with greater force untill all are tighten up to specification.

PS: Don't break off the bolts! :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Can you please tell me the correct order in which the engine mounts are to be tightened? I can't locate this information in the service manual, only the correct torque values are mentioned.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:34 PM   #69798
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Could someone with a functioning bike please unbolt their CDI and take a look at the bottom and confirm that you can't see a blue capacitor or white stones coming thru?

I have a spare CDI from a 2006 DR sitting in India and it's going to take a few weeks to get to me. I'd like to know if I can rely on that CDI to work in my DR or whether I have to look for another unit.
Weird! But apparently normal.
This is the CDI on my 1999:
.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:11 PM   #69799
thetable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Weird! But apparently normal.
This is the CDI on my 1999:
.
Is that a silicone cover or potting compound? Definitely looks like the latter, which would just be poured in and allowed to cure. It is odd that they wouldn't use enough to cover everything though.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #69800
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I don't know if I would call that normal... I refuse to pull mine off and look at it now...I do not want to know if mine looks like that...because if it did it would bother me....
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:43 PM   #69801
procycle
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Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I don't know if I would call that normal... I refuse to pull mine off and look at it now...I do not want to know if mine looks like that...because if it did it would bother me....
Evidently there is some crystalline filler used with the rubbery (silicone?) potting material. Looks to me like some of the filler was not very level when they poured the potting material in.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:53 PM   #69802
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please explain that more in detail, step by step with the proper torque specs, if you have all that info. that would also be good for krusty's DR index.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
As mentioned before, sometimes loosening up all the engine mount bolts ... then re-tightening them in the correct order and in steps ... this may help some.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:28 PM   #69803
ChromeSux
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I just lowered the price on the Mikuni TM40 in the FM section, its a deal on a great DR650 improvement, i know i will regret it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...2#post19739712
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:03 PM   #69804
Paddle007
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That filling in the CDI box reminds me off the Ford modules from the mid 70s to the 80s. I have seen many of those that were so hot it dripped down the inner fender. Never seemed to bother them.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:49 PM   #69805
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
It is the same process as tightening any multi fastener item. Loosen all bolts, tighten one slightly then tighten the one across from the first one, then slightly tighten the next loose one slightly and the one across from that. Then start over the process by tightening with greater force untill all are tighten up to specification.

PS: Don't break off the bolts! :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
please explain that more in detail, step by step with the proper torque specs, if you have all that info. that would also be good for krusty's DR index.
As noted in above post. In A&P school we learned to do criss cross or star patterns on most assemblies, and doing 3 stages of tightening to ensure
even pressure and alignment. No idea if Suzuki provide more detail on this. I've never seen any specifics ... just following standard practices.

One thing to add: Once everything is loose ... make certain motor is fully seated correctly and not hung up anywhere. Basically, just wiggle it around a bit and look at motor mounts to see if all looks OK. Then tighten back up. Look specifically for cracked mounts, bolts or frame bosses.

The more I read, more I feel its a counter balancer issue. But just a guess.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:04 AM   #69806
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Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
I have a 2006 DR650 with the Intimidators up front and the Cogent rear shock, with around 12k miles. Back around 6-7k miles when I was on the middle of the Great Divide Ride, I noticed that my forks did not seem as smooth and plush in their sliding action. A few months ago I serviced the fork with new seals and 5wt Maxima fork oil (as recommended by Ricor) thinking it might help. No luck. Over the last few months I have been playing around A LOT with fork alignment, attempting to get the forks at the same height in the triple clamps, keeping the triple bolt clams just snug for the fitup. I snugged the axle bolt down while trying all sorts of combinations of keeping the spacer, speed gear, and brake caliper off the bike so the right leg can properly align to be parallel with the left leg. I read a ton of posts on how to align the forks properly. No luck.

Basically, what I am feeling is a binding/stiction sensation as I compress the fork legs slowly. If I push down hard and fast, it seems to rebound like it is supposed to, at least on the initial quick motion up. But if I push down slowly, I have to pull up on the bars a little to get the bike to rise back up to the normal ride height. It will not easily return to normal ride height unless I pull up and "assist" the bike through the last of its rebound.

When I take the fork tubes out of the clamps and push down on them individually against the ground, they feel smooth and plush, no hang up or binding at all. It's only after I install them in the triple clamps that it feels tight. Any ideas on the triple clamps going bad or out of alignment. The only idea I have for the next course of action is to try another set of triple clamps, in case they are out of alignment.
Ok, per the suggestion of inmates here I did verify a few things:
-With the front axle clamp loosened (and the axle tight), I still experience the same stiffness.
-I purchased a Motion Pro Fork Alignment Gauge, which verifies that the forks are parallel when measured below the fender and just above the brake rotor.

I also noticed today a strange noise today, which I recorded. The noise sounds like a clunking during each compression/rebound. The "stiction"/drag I am feeling may be more related to damping then actual friction...kind of hard to explain.

Watch the video and let me know what you think. Notice the noise, and how I have to pull the bike up and "aid" it on its rebound to return to a somewhat normal ride height.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eI5ZEIfTJ_g

I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the Ricor Intimidators, be it product flaw or operator error.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:34 AM   #69807
Jammin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Weird! But apparently normal.
This is the CDI on my 1999:
.
That is weird but at least good to know it's "normal"

I can't imagine Suzuki made all of these CDIs like that. There must be some design function for that then, right? Maybe cooling off the capacitor...

Ok, now for testing a CDI from a late model DR in an old DR. Jeff, do you have access to a 2006 or thereabouts CDI?

I was told by a mechanic in South Africa that Suzuki introduced a sort of anti-theft feature (to prevent hot wiring) on the DR by changing the resistance in the ignition switch over the model years so that a CDI from a late model couldn't be put into an old DR. Im not sure how true this info is. If it is true, I need to figure out what resistance the 2006 CDI needs and figure out a way to mod my ignition switch to match that.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:23 AM   #69808
planemanx15
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Setting: 2 up with a top case, on a really curvy back road in my area, my friend on his 2008 R6. He couldnt believe that the mighty DR was able to handle the curves and keep up with him through it all! Granted he is riding a year less than me, but has almost double the miles...Gotta love the Doctor!
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:46 AM   #69809
thetable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the Ricor Intimidators, be it product flaw or operator error.
Is it possible that the Intiminators were installed upside down? It looks like the way they are supposed to work, only backwards.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:26 AM   #69810
isaac004
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Originally Posted by thetable View Post
Is it possible that the Intiminators were installed upside down? It looks like the way they are supposed to work, only backwards.
That is possible. I install them in the orientation you see here, with the nut side pointing up to the sky. I did this because it is how the Gold Line Emulators are installed.


I did buy this bike with Ricor's second hand, so I do not have the instructions. Can someone verify if this is the right orientation, and/or provide a copy of the instructions?
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