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Old 10-05-2012, 10:10 PM   #69841
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
THIS! This is exactly the weird thing I think I am chasing down.



I just got off the phone with Ricor and explained my problem, and what they told me was the first round of Ricor's (mine were probably installed by the original owner around 2007-2009) had a slight issue with the seal ring being slightly too large. This is also exasperated by the fact that once it soaks and swells slightly from the fork oil, it becomes even bigger (Pro Tip: Belray sends to cause more swelling, even in regular fork seals). This makes sense with what I saw last year when I "rebuilt" the forks with new oil and new seals....it took a bit of force to get the Intiminator's out, as in I had to turn the fork leg upside down and compress it until the Intiminator shot out with force into my plastic oil collection pan. Likewise during installation, I simply could not just "drop them in"...I had to use the fork spring to help them slide in the fork.

So the guy from Ricor confirmed that I will need to trim down this seal ring. I just pop it off the Intiminator like a piston ring, remove some material either by filing or cutting with diagonal cutters, and reinstall. Once that ring is back on the body of the Intiminator, it should drop right down the fork tube with no resistance. Ricor confirmed that it is OK if it's slightly loose, the effects are not very noticeable.

Hopefully I will get to this in the next half week or so...I will post my results. Thanks everyone for contributing ideas and thoughts.

ER70S-2, thanks for mentioning this crucial bit of info!

planemanx15, this may fix your problem!
Probably not intimidators, I don't have them and I'm still having this issue.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #69842
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
When I start to brake for a light, my forks move quickly through the first 2 inches, then slow. When I stop, they don't spring back until I start to throttle up and take off. Strange issue, not sure where to start so I'm just "observing" for now lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Probably not intimidators, I don't have them and I'm still having this issue.
Stock springs? If so, what do you weigh? I'm about 205 ready to ride (boots, coat, pants, etc). I shimmed my fork preload; started with 1/2", which was too much. So I tried 1/4", but it wasn't enough. I would have been happy at 3/8" but decided to go with Eibach .45 springs and RT emulators. Adding preload is free.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:01 PM   #69843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
So yesterday I got around to making the modification described above. After draining some oil and pulling the spring out, I had to compress the fork while it was upside down in a oil pan, and slowly compress the fork to get the Intiminators out. Well not once but TWICE did I end up spraying oil all over the floor as it shot down with force into the oil pan. I should have built a little cardboard wall/fort around the pan so I did not have to spent half a hour wiping off of everything.



I removed about 1mm from each oil ring, and as I put everything back together it was MUCH easier to slide the Intiminators back in the forks. Now I had hopes. After finishing off the re-assembly with Maxima 5wt oil, I bolted everything back together. Time for the moment of truth...

..and no dice. It feels and sounds exactly the same as before.

Not sure what to do at this point. Might be a good time to upgrade to Gold Valves for slightly better off road performance!
Did you fill the forks with fork oil to above the damping rods and cycle the shock several times before dropping in the intiminators and completing the filling?
Did you fill while the forks were fully compressed?
Are your caliper bolts tight?
Is your steering head nut torqued to spec?
If you are sure you installed everything right, I'd experiment with these suggestions:
First, open the caps , take out the spacers, put in new spaces 2x the length of the old ones, screw the caps on and try the bounce test.
If no difference, open the caps, and add some extra oil, screw the caps down and give it the bounce test.
If no difference, open the caps and remove the oil you just poured in and remove some additional oil - a turkey baster might work great if it's long enough. Give it the bounce test again.

Let us know the results.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:17 PM   #69844
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
What oil height have people settled on?
I was happy with the stock oil volume (19.1 oz). I believe that's 6.5". That was with .45 Eibach's + emulators. But when I installed Procycle's Magic, way more stronger 320mm rotor, the fork dive was almost as bad as the stock springs.

I've never been happy with having to measure fork oil height with the springs out; what a PITA. Clear back when I had my DT-1B air forks were being experimented with. It was one of the mods available to us back then (Fred Flintstone was my buddy). Maybe it was Dirt Bike magazine that did an article on completely removing the fork springs and using air to suspend the bike. It was an easy and cheap experiment; drill and tap the fork caps, install schrader(?) valves, add air. Even back then, I had to farkle (35 years before I ever heard the word farkle).

This is what I ended up with, it's over in the DR Index, but WTF; now it's here again.

Use a 1/8 NPT tap. Ignore the forks being slipped up in the triple, it's just an experiment.

Copied and pasted from the Index; Suspension / Chassis:
Then I use one of these with a zip tie loose enough to slide up-n-down. Now I can adjust my oil level without disassembly, which came in handy when I put a 320mm rotor on the front. The brake works so much better that the fork dive with .45 Eibachs, was too much for my liking. Stock oil level is 16-1/8" (forks fully extended, with springs and caps installed), I added 20ml and ended up at 14-7/8". That's 1 1/4" or 5/8" per 10ml. You don't even have to move your handi-bars, way better than removing the springs and collapsing the forks everytime you want to experiment with oil levels.

More info here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=19

But in your case (Intiminators and heavier springs), fork dive isn't an issue. So none of this matters. If you aren't bottoming out frequently and you're ok with whatever fork dive, I'm thinking the stock 19.1oz (for accuracy) is good.



My turkey baster:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 10-05-2012 at 11:25 PM
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:27 AM   #69845
Rugby4life
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Come And Get It

OK folks, due to old age and old knees I'm selling my DR. I'm going to move it in the next couple of weeks to get something new so this is your last chance.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822901

Thanks for looking.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:56 AM   #69846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Probably not intimidators, I don't have them and I'm still having this issue.
Did you add a spacer after removing the Intiminators?
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:33 AM   #69847
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Stock springs? If so, what do you weigh? I'm about 205 ready to ride (boots, coat, pants, etc). I shimmed my fork preload; started with 1/2", which was too much. So I tried 1/4", but it wasn't enough. I would have been happy at 3/8" but decided to go with Eibach .45 springs and RT emulators. Adding preload is free.
Progressive springs from procycle. 200 ready to ride. How can you tell if you have the right amount of preload? I don't have the noise that isaac004 has, but the springing back to the top issue.

nordieboy: never had Intimidators. Thinking about getting them to solve the brake dive.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:39 AM   #69848
planemanx15
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In other news, I finally got to ride after a wet week. I was able to put my rear through its paces again with the new oil and spring. There is no off roading near me (that's legal, and as a soon to be federal employee I refuse to chance it). The bike is so much more controlled, and it actually feels like it has a more aggressive stance. The power delivery now is Great since the rear doesn't dive when twisting the throttle. The front wheel is in the air now, a lot lol.

I've learned that more power is nice, but how you control that power makes all the difference.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #69849
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Well my Intiminators work great, brake dive eliminated, better on and off road performance

I believe isaac004 said he bought his used, so maybe there is an issue with his set?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
:



Crap. I was tempted to try the Intiminators, just 'cause. Now, not so much. I do like my emulators.
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:34 AM   #69850
disconnected
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Im looking for engine case savers. Im a complete boob when it comes to this bike, but I learn fast. are there any other options than the TT case savers? Just wondering.



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Old 10-06-2012, 09:45 AM   #69851
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Here's an option - don't know if it's what is offered on TT
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#engine



Armor Plating for Engine CasesDR650SE '96-Current






$79.95 - $169.95


Heavy gauge stainless steel case armor to protect your engine cases. These case guards bond to your clutch cover and stator cover with high-temp silicone (not included). Extremely tough protection from rocks! In a fall your brake pedal or shift lever can crack the engine case - leaving you stranded. Don't let it happen to you! Get the case armor or choose our Armor & Skid Plate combo.
NEW COLORS! Skid plates now available in the standard Aluminum finish or NEW Black or Gunmetal powdercoating!
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:46 AM   #69852
disconnected
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Thanks TrophyHunter!


greg
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:47 AM   #69853
disconnected
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Other than a skid plate, are there anyothers you may need or want?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Here's an option - don't know if it's what is offered on TT
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#engine



Armor Plating for Engine CasesDR650SE '96-Current







$79.95 - $169.95



Heavy gauge stainless steel case armor to protect your engine cases. These case guards bond to your clutch cover and stator cover with high-temp silicone (not included). Extremely tough protection from rocks! In a fall your brake pedal or shift lever can crack the engine case - leaving you stranded. Don't let it happen to you! Get the case armor or choose our Armor & Skid Plate combo.
NEW COLORS! Skid plates now available in the standard Aluminum finish or NEW Black or Gunmetal powdercoating!
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:18 AM   #69854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Other than a skid plate, are there anyothers you may need or want?
Proper hand guards are a must. Nothing like trying to get home with a broken clutch lever.

Are you planning on crashing a lot? Not sure how much this stuff is needed for most crashes, but just like gear, you only need to use it once before it pays for itself multiple times.
Might want to look into some protection for the rear rotor. ProCycle has a weld on shark fin.
Rear master cylinder guard. The MC isn't overly exposed, but I wouldn't want to be without it.

Spend some time at Procycle and see what you want/need, as they seem to carry most everything DR related.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:22 AM   #69855
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Crap. I was tempted to try the Intiminators, just 'cause. Now, not so much. I do like my emulators.
I know the Intiminators seem to work for some riders, a good option for those who are bothered by fork dive. But I prefer the wide range of adjust-ability with Race-Tech emulators. The Emulators come with 3 rebound springs (soft, medium and hard) to fine tune rebound feel.
In addition, you can tune further by drilling more or fewer holes in damper rod and vary diameter of holes. Then you've got oil weight and oil height to play with, plus spring rates and preload.

You could end up chasing your tail ... but might be worth trying different settings until you get something close to perfection. Mine is perfect and a great compromise between street and dirt.
Fork feel is subjective. If a pro sets up your emulators ... they may not always work for you. Depends what you're used to, how you ride and balance of street vs. off road.
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