the DR650 thread

[Adv Grifter]

What spring rate on the fork springs?
You can do a few things to change the character of the ride up front.
1. Add or Subtract pre load spacers
2. Raise or lower oil level in forks
3. Alter oil viscosity either lighter or heavier

My best advice would be to give your current set up some time on a variety of roads. Push the bike in bad conditions.
Hopefully you'll know where it needs improvement.

The suspension experts always mention getting the right balance between Front and Rear. I agree ... but lots of ways to get there.

If none of the above brings Joy ... you could:
4. Go heavier or lighter on fork springs. (I prefer straight rate springs)
5. Add Race Tech Emulators. WOW! What an improvement ! And also tunable.

Good luck!

[planemanx15]

I will have to ride it more to tell, not a bad thing I guess lol.

I do how ever have a noise when braking hard. I think it's from the front. As the bike is slowing down rapidly, I get a noise that sounds like a school bus stopping. It only happens with braking hard, normal braking is fine. I practiced a few panic stops today and realized it wasn't going away. I recently replaced the pads and rotors, but this noise was there prior to the replacement. Any ideas guys?

[shu]

Been riding some obscure Colorado passes this last week.

Heading into a storm near Spanish Peaks



Early morning on Milk Cow Pass.



Another morning pic at Sandy's Fort Pass.



Didn't get much farther up the hill at Sam's Divide.



Camp on Gill Creek Divide.



Gettin' up there.



DR still running great. Just the usual services every 3500 miles. Stator failure, and two tail light failures.

...........shu

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Quick measurement this morning says the shelf in the carb slide is about 7mm high.

Originally Posted by motolab

I measured new single and double lift hole slides and got ~ 2.0 & 1.8mm shelf height respectively.

Another measurement got a more realistic 1.8mm

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

I will have to ride it more to tell, not a bad thing I guess lol.

I do how ever have a noise when braking hard. I think it's from the front. As the bike is slowing down rapidly, I get a noise that sounds like a school bus stopping. It only happens with braking hard, normal braking is fine. I practiced a few panic stops today and realized it wasn't going away. I recently replaced the pads and rotors, but this noise was there prior to the replacement. Any ideas guys?

Since you just did pads and rotors ... I would look there for the problem. What rotors did you buy? Some non-Suzuki (DID or Nissin, IIRC) rotors make some FUNKY sounds. (read Chinese ones)

New rotors and pads need a bit of breaking in. Maybe the first 100 miles try not to over heat them. Easy to glaze the pads and warp your new rotor.

But for that sound I would make sure you've got the pads in correctly and that the retainer springs are doing the job and in correct position.

While in there it wouldn't hurt to service the Caliper Pistons. Make certain they are free and moving all the way in and out EVENLY ... if not, you can get UNEVEN pad wear and less than stellar braking.

Cleaning Caliper Pistons:
With pads out, slowly pump pistons out about 80% of the way out, clean them up with a Scotch Brite pad or similar.
You can use a small wood block to ensure pistons won't pop out. Take care the rubber seal edges. Wipe off with Brake fluid when done. Work them back the forth a few times, lubing with Brake fluid. Re-install pads, bleed brakes. Test ride.

[TrophyHunter]

Rob & Shu - very nice! My son & I managed to put a couple of hundred miles on recently.







I like seeing a ride pic here now and then. Reminds me of why we educate ourselves on the mechanical aspects in case we need it.

[Magnum Noel]

Originally Posted by Rob.G

Went for a 240-mile ride yesterday. Had a nice mix of dirt and asphalt in and around the Mt. Hood area.

Rob

lucky bugger. Nice pic too

[PPCLI-Jim]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

I will have to ride it more to tell, not a bad thing I guess lol.

I do how ever have a noise when braking hard. I think it's from the front. As the bike is slowing down rapidly, I get a noise that sounds like a school bus stopping. It only happens with braking hard, normal braking is fine. I practiced a few panic stops today and realized it wasn't going away. I recently replaced the pads and rotors, but this noise was there prior to the replacement. Any ideas guys?

You might want to check if the pads have a metal high life stamp on the package. If they are they have a high metal mix in them that guarantees that pads dont wear out" but the rotors will that" is probably the reason they are doing it. If they dont show that and if you have cleaned the brake parts you might try a LIGHT sanding on the pads to take any glazing on them off. Just a few swirls on a 800 or so sandpaper on a flat surface . there is also a compound that you can apply between the metal backside of the pads and the metal shims (you didnt toss those or fail to install them I hope ). Also check the torque to ensure they are all at the same tension . Tight enough has too much varience in it and could cause the issues you have

[ER70S-2]

Thanks for the pics guys, everybody love pics.

Originally Posted by shu

Been riding some obscure Colorado passes this last week.

Gettin' up there.



DR still running great. Just the usual services every 3500 miles. Stator failure, and two tail light failures.

...........shu

I was thinking I'd get to 40k before the weather crapped, but Wednesday thru the weekend is looking coolish and wet.

Originally Posted by TrophyHunter

Rob & Shu - very nice! My son & I managed to put a couple of hundred miles on recently.

I like seeing a ride pic here now and then.
Reminds me of why we educate ourselves on the mechanical aspects in case we need it.

Everytime I have to change a tire, I grumble about it. But everytime I have a flat on the road, I'm glad I got the practice.

Cripple Creek:


Old mine above CC:


Current mine above CC, and what keeps the town alive:

Originally Posted by planemanx15

I do how ever have a noise when braking hard. I think it's from the front. As the bike is slowing down rapidly, I get a noise that sounds like a school bus stopping. It only happens with braking hard, normal braking is fine. I practiced a few panic stops today and realized it wasn't going away. I recently replaced the pads and rotors, but this noise was there prior to the replacement. Any ideas guys?

Since the problem was happening before the new pads and rotor, maybe it's something simple like your front tire rubbing on the fender. Mine is pretty noisy with just a little rub. This is with about 2" cut off the stocker.

[Escaped]

Originally Posted by shu

Gettin' up there.

DR still running great. Just the usual services every 3500 miles. Stator failure, and two tail light failures.

...........shu

LOL I Just had my first tail light bulb go out last night. I have just about 40k miles on the bike - no major problems just normal maint.

Sent from my MB520 using Tapatalk 2

[planemanx15]

Thanks for the advice everybody, I'll be sure to check out those issues.

[Zapp22]

I actually mic'd all the clutch plates and inspected the fingers etc when I did preventative on the NSU. Also gave me another opportunity to look for any damage in the form of stuff laying on the floor of the case - clean as could be. I get more particles from my Weestrom than from this guy. so its really mystifying. I had thought maybe the synchronizers were toasted because when my old clutch cable frayed, the clutch was not disengaging fully and made shifting really tricky for awhile 'til I figured out what was going on, but there's just no evidence that I can observe. The plates are smack in the middle of the specified range. There's only 8K on the bike

Originally Posted by Andyinhilo

Pull the clutch and check that the metal plates are clean and flat. If they are warped and/or contaminated that can cause drag. Also take a look at the fingers on the clutch basket and see if the sides that engage the fiber plates are smooth. If these are not smooth, they can cause the clutch to stick too. Make similar checks with the metal plates and the clutch hub.

Mine shifted better after I changed to Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic blend.

[suguzzi]

I had the same trouble with mine and called Jesse to see if he had a good cure. He told me that I could send it to him and he now has a jig set up for a press and can dent in a slight clearance area. I opted to put the Power bomb header on as they do not have the clearance issue. I may send my other to Jesse to be fixed so I either have a spare or can more easily sell it. I would give him a call and see what he says. Good luck.

Originally Posted by hessy7

Has anybody ever had a problem with the FMF header pipe rubbing the frame? I have a Keintech mid pipe with a GSXR can and on a weekend off rode ride I noticed the pipe moved back against the frame. I pulled it away when the header was glowing on start up but after it cooled down it moved back again. Any suggestions?

Dave


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[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Zapp22

I actually mic'd all the clutch plates and inspected the fingers etc when I did preventative on the NSU. Also gave me another opportunity to look for any damage in the form of stuff laying on the floor of the case - clean as could be. I get more particles from my Weestrom than from this guy. so its really mystifying. I had thought maybe the synchronizers were toasted because when my old clutch cable frayed, the clutch was not disengaging fully and made shifting really tricky for awhile 'til I figured out what was going on, but there's just no evidence that I can observe. The plates are smack in the middle of the specified range. There's only 8K on the bike

My DR clunks pretty good going into 1st also. The 1st to 2nd shift I do kinda slow, and that seems to help. Not much I know to make that clunk go away.

I know sometimes different oil seems to help. But (for me) as oil wears down seems the clunk becomes more severe.
I use Mobil One synthetic Car oil (for High Mileage cars) It has no friction modifiers. Been using it for 35,000 miles now.
I usually mix in about a half quart of Chevron Delo 400 (Dino oil) with the Mobil One. Seems to work well and shifting is better for about 1000 miles ... then clunk returns.
But I believe the Delo may help some .... Strictly seat of the pants call here. Good luck.

[cveddy]

I have been trying, rather unsuccessfully, to sell my DR: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=821043

Anyone care to share their thoughts on my pricing? Maybe it is the time of year, location, condition of the bike, age? Thanks