ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-08-2012, 08:05 PM   #69916
neo1piv014
ADV in training
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Looking at trading my 2004 Yamaha FZ6 for a 1996 DR650 with low miles and looks to be in great condition, am I crazy?
The guy is asking 2700 for the bike and mine is worth a little more maybe 3000 - 3200.
The DR has a FMF pipe and has supposedly been jetted for it and everything else is stock. What should I look for, I commute 100 miles a day is this thing reliable and able enough to make it? about 20 of that is interstate travel the rest is back roads. What about tank range, the FZ will take me about 250 miles on a tank of gas what about the DR? I also get 50 mpgs is this about the same?
Ken

I wouldn't do that trade. Honestly, DR650s aren't hard bikes to find, and they're definitely not hard to find on the cheap. At any given time there's two or three of them in good condition in my area just on Craigslist. If it were me and I had to do it all over again, I would have kept my street bike, gotten a night job at McDonalds or something, and just worked the couple months it'd take to save up for the second bike. If having two bikes is, for whatever reason, completely impossible/impractical for your situation, then sell your bike first to get every penny of what it's worth. If you're dead set on doing a straight trade...come on down to Albuquerque and we'll swap.
__________________
_________________________
Ride videos
'01 DR650
"The impossible often has a kind of integrity which the merely improbable lacks."
neo1piv014 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 08:13 PM   #69917
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Thanks a lot for the info regarding the rear wheel bearings.
Thanks for the follow-up, I wondered where you ended up on this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Here's what my original bearings looked like after 28.000 km. The new bearings will be double-seal versions.

Is it still necesary to use the extra seals?
Take a look at your photo. I'm thinking: Yes, use all the seals you can fit in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
I guess i was lucky......................
Yep, I'd guess you were.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Regards,
Thanas


Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
anyone ever noticed the grease seal on the inside of the speedo hub mount? suzuki doesnt list it as a separate part so i was wondering if anyone has found where you can buy one aftermarket. after 111 000km i think it only right by my girl that i replace for her.
72k miles This came up some time ago, I never saw an answer. I'd like to replace mine too.
__________________
2004 DR650: 61,211 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 08:59 PM   #69918
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
I pulled the trigger :)

Congrats! I agree with others here. $2K for a solid bike is a place a lot of folks would like to be.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 10:25 PM   #69919
isaac004
Studly Adventurer
 
isaac004's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 697
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

This takes me back many years. Short story: I had a 65 pound black standard poodle, he was my best bud (got me thru my divorce). One day I had to do an oil change and I used an 18" diameter open top drain pan with 4" sides. So I got the oil drained and wondered "Where do I put this where I won't trip over it?" Aha, I'll just slide it under the boat trailer tongue (in the garage). Bear was allowed to wander the house and yard thru his dog door. I went in to watch football. During half time, I went to check on him and wandered into the garage. There must have been 1000 dog prints on the concrete floor. How my best buddy managed to get both his front feet into that oil pan is beyond me. Spent an hour with toxic chemicals cleaning the garage floor. At least he didn't come in the house.
No, he did not get yelled at, nor blamed.
Haha, this is too funny!!!
isaac004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 10:26 PM   #69920
isaac004
Studly Adventurer
 
isaac004's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 697
Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
So yesterday I got around to making the modification described above. After draining some oil and pulling the spring out, I had to compress the fork while it was upside down in a oil pan, and slowly compress the fork to get the Intiminators out. Well not once but TWICE did I end up spraying oil all over the floor as it shot down with force into the oil pan. I should have built a little cardboard wall/fort around the pan so I did not have to spent half a hour wiping off of everything.



I removed about 1mm from each oil ring, and as I put everything back together it was MUCH easier to slide the Intiminators back in the forks. Now I had hopes. After finishing off the re-assembly with Maxima 5wt oil, I bolted everything back together. Time for the moment of truth...

..and no dice. It feels and sounds exactly the same as before.

Not sure what to do at this point. Might be a good time to upgrade to Gold Valves for slightly better off road performance!
OK, another update here.

I was trying to avoid just straight up removing them, but I figured it was worth a shot. So today I had a free hour and decided to pull out the Intiminators to see how the fork action is. I did not bother to add more oil (as the oil height dropped), add preload (to keep the same preload I should add around 3/4" extra in PVC pipe, or bump the oil viscosity up (with the Intiminators removed I should go back up to around 10 wt, as Ricor recommended a lower 5 wt). I will do these things later.

The fork action has pretty much returned to normal, in regards to no more excessive binding, easier to compress, and it rebounds back to normal ride height without me having to "pull" it up. There is still a slight amount of stiction, more then my F800GS or WR250R, but hey, it's a low tech DS bike without nice USD forks, so it feels pretty damn good now for what it is.

It looks like the bottom edge could have been scrapping the inside of the fork tubes a bit too much.


For now I will just return to a higher viscosity oil and leave the Intiminators out, more or less a stock fork setup.
isaac004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 07:03 AM   #69921
Ren20
Finding Touge
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 111
Thanks, new to dual sport. a lot to learn. first to get proper boots. I don't think my racing boots work for this application.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Congrats! I agree with others here. $2K for a solid bike is a place a lot of folks would like to be.
Ren20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 07:08 AM   #69922
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Thanks, new to dual sport. a lot to learn. first to get proper boots. I don't think my racing boots work for this application.
Which boots are those? They'll probably do just fine for the time being. You may need to raise the shift lever a little so you can get your toe under it.

I started out with a pair of Alpinestars Tech 2's. I still wear them strictly for dirt riding on my KLX250S, until I can get something taller. I just wasn't comfortable in full-height boots at the time. But just recently, I got a killer deal on some Sidi Adventure Rain boots. I don't think they're armored quite enough for true offroading, but for adventure riding, they ROCK. VERY comfortable. I swapped out the stock insoles with some SuperFeet insoles (the green ones). At first, I had to raise the shifter a notch, but now that they've broken in, I was able to put it back down. The only downside is these boots squeak like mad. I've read you can oil them, but I haven't tried yet.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'10 Kawasaki KLX351S #320
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 07:17 AM   #69923
Ren20
Finding Touge
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 111
Rob,

I have A* smx plus racing boots. The sole is quite thin on those boots. Been reading reviews on merchants sites. sidi sure makes nice boots. but also $$$.

I currently have REVIT! textile jacket and Pants.

Thanks for the tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Which boots are those? They'll probably do just fine for the time being. You may need to raise the shift lever a little so you can get your toe under it.

I started out with a pair of Alpinestars Tech 2's. I still wear them strictly for dirt riding on my KLX250S, until I can get something taller. I just wasn't comfortable in full-height boots at the time. But just recently, I got a killer deal on some Sidi Adventure Rain boots. I don't think they're armored quite enough for true offroading, but for adventure riding, they ROCK. VERY comfortable. I swapped out the stock insoles with some SuperFeet insoles (the green ones). At first, I had to raise the shifter a notch, but now that they've broken in, I was able to put it back down. The only downside is these boots squeak like mad. I've read you can oil them, but I haven't tried yet.

Rob
Ren20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 07:22 AM   #69924
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Rob,

I have A* smx plus racing boots. The sole is quite thin on those boots. Been reading reviews on merchants sites. sidi sure makes nice boots. but also $$$.

I currently have REVIT! textile jacket and Pants.
Yeah Sidis are expensive... hence why I jumped on the ones I found (barely used).

REVIT is NICE stuff, really nice stuff.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'10 Kawasaki KLX351S #320
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 09:28 AM   #69925
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,945
http://www.atomic-moto.com/boots.html

I usually give Brian at Atomic Moto a look for boots. Some stuff you don't see everywhere. I went with the Gaerne SG-10's for my more adventurous rides and the Gaerne G-Adventure for most of my stuff. I also picked up a brand new pair of A-star "no stop" trials boots from CL at a "I don't really need 'em but I can't pass 'em up" price.

Brian is a vendor on ADV and has outstanding customer service.
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 10:00 AM   #69926
isaac004
Studly Adventurer
 
isaac004's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 697
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Thanks, new to dual sport. a lot to learn. first to get proper boots. I don't think my racing boots work for this application.
I do all my DS and ADV riding in Side Flex Force boots, which are quite hefty.



Yes they are big and clunky, but I have gone on 3 week rides (the Continental Divide Ride) in them without any issues. I just bring a pair of flip flops with me, so at lunch breaks I can air my feet out. Makes a huge difference.
isaac004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 10:03 AM   #69927
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
For now I'm just going to leave it alone and before I head out to the middle of nowhere try to run my tank dry.

Thanks guys for the info. You just saved me from screwing up my carb.

Cheers,
Canoli
I've rotated the fuel tube on three BST carbs, no issues at all. Two were my Carbs, one on a friends bike.

It's technique, not technical.
I did this Carb on bike. Tank off and out of way. I used big Channel Lock pliers, a BIG Crescent wrench can work also. I placed a piece of inner tube on the fuel tube to protect. Grab the entire length of tube with pliers, applying even pressure.

I rotated to 9 O'clock position (some go to 3 O'clock position). Steady, firm pressure (NO HEAT) and she moved smooth and easy on all three carbs.

Access is important to apply even pressure along the length of the tube. So use the right tool or remove Carb.

The result added "about" 20 miles more range on my IMS fuel tank.

Does the Safari have dual petcocks? (right and left). I recall some mention of that. If not, maybe add another petcock?

Good luck.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 10:27 AM   #69928
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Hi guys,

Is a 2001 dr650SE with 7000 miles for $2000 Fair? Seller wouldn't go down in price. It's a clean bone stock example. I think nada value is about $1600 for that year. Been looking for one for a while. But no luck. Not many people selling. And ppl want $4500 + for newer years in North east.

updated info, it does have extra gas tank and skid plate. I think that's about it.

Thanks in advance
Could be a good deal if that mileage is true. So easy to disconnect ODO.
Sadly, many fudge ODO readings.

Try to find a good mechanic to come with you to check bike out. Have a close listen and nice test ride. Sound can tell you a lot on a DR650. Listen for changes from Cold to Hot. Look at oil, shift through gear box.
Check underside for off road damage (linkage, case, bash plate, underside of swing arm, fork ends ... all can show damage from off road use/abuse)

chances are good its a great deal. Best!
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 10:43 AM   #69929
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,586
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
http://www.atomic-moto.com/boots.html

I usually give Brian at Atomic Moto a look for boots. Some stuff you don't see everywhere. I went with the Gaerne SG-10's for my more adventurous rides and the Gaerne G-Adventure for most of my stuff. I also picked up a brand new pair of A-star "no stop" trials boots from CL at a "I don't really need 'em but I can't pass 'em up" price.

Brian is a vendor on ADV and has outstanding customer service.
I have the AXO Boxer boots that Atomic sells and I couldn't believe what a nice boot it was for the money.
__________________
In the beginning, there was nothing. Even That exploded
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
Rusty Rocket is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 10:45 AM   #69930
Feelers
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Oddometer: 181
Wicked Intiminator Clunk Cause

Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
OK, another update here.

I was trying to avoid just straight up removing them, but I figured it was worth a shot. So today I had a free hour and decided to pull out the Intiminators to see how the fork action is. I did not bother to add more oil (as the oil height dropped), add preload (to keep the same preload I should add around 3/4" extra in PVC pipe, or bump the oil viscosity up (with the Intiminators removed I should go back up to around 10 wt, as Ricor recommended a lower 5 wt). I will do these things later.

The fork action has pretty much returned to normal, in regards to no more excessive binding, easier to compress, and it rebounds back to normal ride height without me having to "pull" it up. There is still a slight amount of stiction, more then my F800GS or WR250R, but hey, it's a low tech DS bike without nice USD forks, so it feels pretty damn good now for what it is.

For now I will just return to a higher viscosity oil and leave the Intiminators out, more or less a stock fork setup.
Hey Isaac!

I love how my intiminators work, so I'm hoping to help you fix yours and experience the goodness!

Because I am a nerd, I did a bunch of research on your intiminator fork clunking. I am pretty positive I know what's causing that clunk, and probably the lack of rebound. Essentially, the intiminator is floating off its seat on top of the damper rod due to pressure overwhelming the spring during the compression stroke and when the downward movement of the fork tube stops, the intiminator gets pushed down by the spring against the damping force until it contacts its seat. Hopefully, that makes sense.

So, how can you correct it?

There are 3 possibilities:

First, and most lame is defective valving inside the intiminator. We'll skip that for now because a replacement is the only solution. I think this is also unlikely.

Second is spring rate. I'm not sure which springs you are using - whether stock or aftermarket, but since the spring rate is sort of being overpowered by the damping rate, it's possible that using stiffer springs might help. Adding more preload to your springs also might help. However, the intiminators are designed to be used with the stock springs I'm pretty sure, so the spring rate should not be the issue. I wouldn't swap springs just as an experiment...

Now for the most likely culprit. I've heard that these intiminators are pretty sensitive to oil viscosity, and they are designed and tuned at the factory using Amsoil 5WT fork fluid. When I installed my intiminators, I was very careful to find the best alternative to the amsoil. WT has almost nothing to do with viscosity.

Oil........................Viscosity @ 40degC................Viscosity @ 100degC............Viscosity Index
Amsoil #5..................5.7........................... ................4.4............................... ..............210
Maxima 5wt..............15.9............................. ............3.5................................... ..........150

Your fork oil will typically be nearer to the 40degC mark, so that is the main number to look at. Your viscosity (resistance to flow) is triple the design viscosity and likely the reason the intiminators are having problems flowing the oil fast enough. Amsoil has an unusually low viscosity somehow.

You can select a better oil from the chart at the bottom of this page:
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

FWIW, I used Torco RFF 5 with a 40degC viscosity of 10.75 which works well. I bought it because of price/availability, but the damping at high speed is a bit harsh. It's still much better than stock, but the Amsoil #5 would almost certainly be the best.

Feelers screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 10:47 AM Reason: formatting
Feelers is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014