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Old 10-11-2012, 06:39 AM   #69976
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
... It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms...
The pilot jet is probably partially clogged from all that sitting around.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:04 AM   #69977
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetable View Post
Having spent years in a bicycle shop, I can replace a bike tire in five minutes, but still takes me closer to a half hour to mount up a tube tire on a motorcycle, even after mounting up more than a dozen. Some of the technique is the same, but it is much more difficult.
do it this way, with cable ties...5 minutes is possible with practice and it is nearly impossible to pinch the tube, very little force is required to get the tire on the rim (did not invent the method, learned it from another thread here) Also get some tire lube from Napa, makes the job easier and works better than soapy water. No need to cut the ties one the tire is on the rim, it is easy to release the locking tab with a small screwdriver so they can be reused




victor441 screwed with this post 10-11-2012 at 08:13 AM
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:46 AM   #69978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
do it this way, with cable ties...5 minutes is possible with practice and it is nearly impossible to pinch the tube, very little force is required to get the tire on the rim (did not invent the method, learned it from another thread here) Also get some tire lube from Napa, makes the job easier and works better than soapy water. No need to cut the ties one the tire is on the rim, it is easy to release the locking tab with a small screwdriver so they can be reused



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Old 10-11-2012, 12:00 PM   #69979
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
The IMS tank seems extremely durable, and the white one looks like yellowed hell after a bit of heavy use.
Mine is still white and as far as I know, has been on the bike since 2002.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:15 PM   #69980
isaac004
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Took my 06 DR650 for a spin last night, after having it sit un-started since Feb of this year. While cruising around the neighborhood, I noticed that while stopped or coasting (when clutch was in), it would idle high. At first I felt some resistance in the throttle cable system when I would go (with engine off) to WOT and then let it snap back closed...it would not snap, but instead had some hangup. After closer inspection, all I had to do was trim a few mm off of the throttle grip so it would not rub on the handlebar guards. Now when I move the throttle to WOT, it snaps back nice and fast like it is supposed to. But the bike still idles high. In fact, when putting around off the throttle but with clutch engaged, you can tell that the increased idle speed is higher and wants to move the bike along.

So any ideas on why the idle speed is high? 90% of the time this is the case, 10% of the time it idles normally as my idle speed screw has not needed adjustment in quite along time. It's not coming from the cables being sticky, so I'm thinking something inside the carb could be sticking, especially since I did not drain the carb while it sat un-started for the last 8 months. I can see the cable wheel at the carb move freely and firmly against the idle speed screw stop when this is happening
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:27 PM   #69981
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Mine is still white and as far as I know, has been on the bike since 2002.
Mine is still white too, after two years of heavy use. It's dirty (hard to get the marks off), but definitely white where the black marks aren't.

Rob
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:44 PM   #69982
sandwash
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No yellowing on the clear IMS after 3 years.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:11 PM   #69983
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Craigslist find

No affiliation here, just browsing I came across this:

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mcy/3332280864.html

Motorcycle Mufflers - $75 (Greensboro)


Date: 2012-10-11, 4:24PM EDT
Reply to: tjccj-3332280864@sale.craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]




THIS IS A PAIR OF SUZUKI MUFFLERS FOR SUZ1GR1300 SUZUKI MOTORCYCLE. PART NUMBER IS 24FOA



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Old 10-11-2012, 02:50 PM   #69984
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Here's a mod I think everyone should do to their DR's. It's a little hard to stabilize off road, but the benefits are obvious when you finally reach your destination.




Also, if you're working on your bike in the garage, it provides a much needed distraction.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #69985
Mongle
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Dude, slow down!

But, we just got passed by a KLR...

I don't care; we are going WAY to fast!
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:15 PM   #69986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The pilot jet is probably partially clogged from all that sitting around.
This.

I agree with Jeff. The first thing that went through my mind was.... "what happened to the gas left in the carb all those years?"
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:25 PM   #69987
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Question - since this bike is older, and has low miles, is there any particular maintenance I should do? I am assuming that I will need to do the oil, filters, etc. I do not know if the bike had the 600 mile valve adjustment tune up. It seems to run well, but it is difficult to start at times and seems to bog-down a little bit at lower rpms. I am sure I can find this info inside, but jeebus, there's a to sort through.

Any advice would be appreciated.
It sounds a lot like mine. 2008 model but only 3,000kms. I changed the oil and filter and the old oil was like black water. The new oil went black pretty quickly so I changed it again after another 300 miles and the new oil has stayed cleaner looking. Anyway, I have noticed that the thing seems to sort of be self cleaning itself and the gear changing is getting smoother, especially the neutral to first change. I also put in a magnetic drain plug and filter magnet so try and catch any wear debris.

As for the bogging down at low revs, they are a bit like that even when they're running tip top I think. It took me a while to adjust my riding style so that I was in the right gear coming out of corners and still misjudge it a bit sometimes and have to slip the clutch a tiny bit to get past that low rev "hammering" that they seem to do. I don;t think the "hammering" does any real damage but it still makes my mechanically sympathetic teeth itch.

*edit* meant to mention that when I did the oil changes I also did an engine flush, basically add about 250ml of engine flush like Nulon and then let it idle for 10 mins before draining the oil. It will thin the oil and dissolve some of the sludge that builds up inside the engine.
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:45 PM   #69988
GaThumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
do it this way, with cable ties...5 minutes is possible with practice and it is nearly impossible to pinch the tube, very little force is required to get the tire on the rim (did not invent the method, learned it from another thread here) Also get some tire lube from Napa, makes the job easier and works better than soapy water. No need to cut the ties one the tire is on the rim, it is easy to release the locking tab with a small screwdriver so they can be reused



Is there a thread with more details you could link me to? I want to be sure I understand how this works. I'm assuming you spoon on the tire complete and not one side at a time. Seems like a game changer?


Edit: I found this thread that describes using straps, sp the same concept. Still looking and learning!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597
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GaThumper screwed with this post 10-11-2012 at 07:39 PM
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:14 PM   #69989
ChromeSux
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Is there a thread with more details you could link me to? I want to be sure I understand how this works. I'm assuming you spoon on the tire complete and not one side at a time. Seems like a game changer?
From what i have seen, the tire just slips right on, may take a little lube.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #69990
Chill
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I like the look of that zip tie method a lot. Looks like it gets round the problem of getting the valve through the rim too. (that was a major PITA for me) I'm guessing that the valve goes in first which keeps the bead in the dish of the rim (Jeez, get me, I've done it once and I'm throwing all these technical terms round like a pro)
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