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Old 10-15-2012, 03:49 PM   #70111
Sierra Thumper
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Just a quick note, DO use the clip on the vacuum cap. I did not know about this, and although it was a tight fit mine just fell off during a ride, maybe some 300 miles after installing the tank. The crazy exhaust popping at idle immediately got me thinking of a vacuum leak. Anyway, not a nice thing to fix on the side of the road.
From a lifetime of riding dirt and street, I've learned to secure EVERYTHING on my machines extra well, good clamps, springs, lock/jam nuts, zipties, locktite etc just to be safe. It completely stopped me from having parts loosen up on rides
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:24 PM   #70112
Feyala
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Wandering...
Oddometer: 358
Dead DR - ignition?

Long story short, I parked my DR, returned an hour later, it tried to crank once and from that point forward the starter button is about as useful as tits on a bull.

There is no clicking sound when I push it. Nada. The headlights and signals etc still work.

Being in possession of a manual, I set to work. I have checked the following:

* Starter relay is not getting juice when I push it.
* Already disabled the kickstand switch, rechecked the wires and appears to still be kosher.
* Disabled the clutch safety switch by plugging the wires together.
* The PO destroyed the handlebar kill switch, I have double checked these wires twice now and they appear fine.
* Checked neutral connector, seems fine.
* Diode is fine.
* Fuses appear unbroken.
* Battery appears to be in good condition, and no drop in voltage when starter button is applied (expected).

I have some kind of open circuit before juice hits the starter relay, this much seems obvious to me. Especially as headlights work.

The manual does not offer a procedure to test the ignition switch, and google has failed me. I am certain rain has been getting inside - the flap that closes when you remove the key does not work. I have had to use graphite to get the cylinder to move the last few days (new) and the bike was drenched overnight the day before this started.

I would like to know:
* How to test the ignition switch, hopefully without disassembling it?
* What process would you follow to test the wires themselves for an open circuit? Where to begin?
* Is there a temporary way to bypass the ignition switch for testing purposes? I have found info on permanently removing it but I would like to keep the ignition for security.
* Anything I may have overlooked?

I am completely new to diagnosing electrical problems (today was the first I've used a multimeter) so please "dumb down" any advice.

Thanks in advance! This is a real downer mid-tour!
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:14 PM   #70113
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpblade View Post
I havn't had a dr650 for 3 years. But today I bought a new 2012 charcoal gray one. Rode it home from the dealership about 40 miles and was so impressed. I had forgotten how nimble it was. So excited and I'm 65 years old.
Welcome, '47 was a very good year. You'll need a seat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyala View Post
Long story short, I parked my DR, returned an hour later, it tried to crank once and from that point forward the starter button is about as useful as tits on a bull.

Thanks in advance! This is a real downer mid-tour!
Mine does that about once a year and it's been loose battery terminals.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:29 PM   #70114
Feyala
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Wandering...
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Welcome, '47 was a very good year. You'll need a seat.

Mine does that about once a year and it's been loose battery terminals.
Battery terminals are fine.

While doing my "Murphy check" before worrying about the ignition, I pulled apart the starter button itself. I accidentally bridged the solder points on the back of the button and it fired up and ran like a top. Going to try to repair the button or replace it with something from Radioshack. I feel dumb but not as dumb as I would have if I paid for somebody to haul me back to Portland.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:32 PM   #70115
oktulsa17
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: God's country and he can have it.
Oddometer: 207
Running rough at altitude

This may have been covered somewhere but I'm too lazy to look. Took my '06 to New Mexico recently and it had real problems trying to get to speed as the altitude rose Crossed the Continental divide and on I-40 just had real problems staying out of everybodies way. Just cutting out and spuddering alot. I bought it used and I think the carb has been monkeyed with. It was doing this to some extent in OK at closer to 600 ft, but was real noticeable in NM.

It's back to 'normal' but I'd like to get it running better and maybe know what to do to max performance when I get to altitude.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #70116
trailrider383
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: NP, ID
Oddometer: 3,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyala View Post
Long story short, I parked my DR, returned an hour later, it tried to crank once and from
The manual does not offer a procedure to test the ignition switch, and google has failed me. I am certain rain has been getting inside - the flap that closes when you remove the key does not work. I have had to use graphite to get the cylinder to move the last few days (new) and the bike was drenched overnight the day before this started.
I found out the other day what water in the ignition switch can do. I washed the DR good and started it up and let it run for a few minutes. Turned the key to off and it was still running. I had to kill it with the kill switch. Tried it several times and the key woudn't kill it. The next day it dried up and worked perfect again.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #70117
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,731
Quote:
Originally Posted by oktulsa17 View Post
This may have been covered somewhere but I'm too lazy to look. Took my '06 to New Mexico recently and it had real problems trying to get to speed as the altitude rose Crossed the Continental divide and on I-40 just had real problems staying out of everybodies way. Just cutting out and spuddering alot. I bought it used and I think the carb has been monkeyed with. It was doing this to some extent in OK at closer to 600 ft, but was real noticeable in NM.

It's back to 'normal' but I'd like to get it running better and maybe know what to do to max performance when I get to altitude.
How many miles are there on the carb? What monkeying has been done?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:22 PM   #70118
Chill
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyala View Post
Going to try to repair the button or replace it with something from Radioshack. I feel dumb but not as dumb as I would have if I paid for somebody to haul me back to Portland.
If you go for something from radioshack you want to be asking for a "waterproof push-to-make" button. This will then only be completing the circuit whilst it is being pushed. Also can be called a N.O. switch, N.O. standing for "Normally Open"
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:18 PM   #70119
Feyala
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Wandering...
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
I found out the other day what water in the ignition switch can do. I washed the DR good and started it up and let it run for a few minutes. Turned the key to off and it was still running. I had to kill it with the kill switch. Tried it several times and the key woudn't kill it. The next day it dried up and worked perfect again.
Yikes! Thanks for the heads-up! Could be a problem especially with no kill switch... I will try to find something to cover it when not in use.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
If you go for something from radioshack you want to be asking for a "waterproof push-to-make" button. This will then only be completing the circuit whilst it is being pushed. Also can be called a N.O. switch, N.O. standing for "Normally Open"
I managed to cut clean and re-solder everything. Its a bit worse for wear but works well. Plugged up the kill switch hole with silicone so hopefully it stays dry this time.

If it screws up again (a distinct possibility) I know what to ask for though so thanks!
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:56 PM   #70120
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyala View Post
Battery terminals are fine.

While doing my "Murphy check" before worrying about the ignition, I pulled apart the starter button itself. I accidentally bridged the solder points on the back of the button and it fired up and ran like a top. Going to try to repair the button or replace it with something from Radioshack. I feel dumb but not as dumb as I would have if I paid for somebody to haul me back to Portland.
Good work! I suspected it would be one of the several cut outs mentioned. (clutch switch, kick stand or kill button).

WD40 works wonders on these issues. Many times just a good flush with WD will chase out water and allow current to flow.

The other thing that can happen if you let the bike sit in rain too long is the starter can flood out, rust up and get nasty.
Over time if it gets wet a lot it will corrode inside. Pull it apart and scour it well, re-grease and put back together. May need new brushes but should be OK.

Sounds like a nice Bike Cover should be on your X mas list.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:58 PM   #70121
neo1piv014
ADV in training
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Just cleaning up some of the older parts on this bike, I've noticed that my turn signal switch has been very...sticky...for lack of a better word, and sometimes requires multiple strong presses to actually disengage the signals. At this point, it's mostly just irritating, but getting it moving smoothly again would go a long way towards helping the way this bike feels. Is there a particular kind of lubricant that I should use to grease it up if I took it apart, or is there maybe a relatively inexpensive place to order a brand new set of switch gear for my bike?
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:12 PM   #70122
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,724
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Just cleaning up some of the older parts on this bike, I've noticed that my turn signal switch has been very...sticky...for lack of a better word, and sometimes requires multiple strong presses to actually disengage the signals. At this point, it's mostly just irritating, but getting it moving smoothly again would go a long way towards helping the way this bike feels. Is there a particular kind of lubricant that I should use to grease it up if I took it apart, or is there maybe a relatively inexpensive place to order a brand new set of switch gear for my bike?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
........ I suspected it would be one of the several cut outs mentioned. (clutch switch, kick stand or kill button).

WD40 works wonders on these issues. Many times just a good flush with WD will chase out water and allow current to flow.
Grifter has ya covered.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,605 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:45 AM   #70123
Magnum Noel
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Wellington NZ
Oddometer: 188
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpblade View Post
I havn't had a dr650 for 3 years. But today I bought a new 2012 charcoal gray one. Rode it home from the dealership about 40 miles and was so impressed. I had forgotten how nimble it was. So excited and I'm 65 years old.
Put some pics up sharpblade and let us have a look
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:02 AM   #70124
mud390
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 162
Info followed by a quick question. I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:08 AM   #70125
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 538
i had a problem with the small copper spring inside the starter switch. it managed to overheat with too much current somehow, lost its spring and no longer made contact with the other little copper pieces in there. took a while to work that one out on the boggy hole track
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