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Old 10-17-2012, 09:27 AM   #70171
oktulsa17
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Thanks Derek and ERS70S-2 this is just what I was looking for. Be a nice winter project to get it running well for next season as well as a little general education.


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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:33 AM   #70172
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Any north Florida DR riders here? I just picked up a 2003 for commuting and I think I have a nightmare on my hands. I want to go back to stock, I have the stock carb but it has the Pro Cycle jet kit, Twin Air filter and a stock "drilled" pipe and cut airbox. If you have 100% stock carb kit, airbox, filter and pipe please trade me.
Why not just rebuild the carb if/as needed and tune it properly?

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Old 10-17-2012, 11:36 AM   #70173
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Speaking of dead batteries, the stock battery on my 2009 DR is about wore out, I think.

What's the collective's judgment on the best replacement battery for these bikes? Somewhere along the line I seem to recall reading that the best replacement battery was oddly enough the OEM battery.

Is it worth getting an AGM or whatever battery? One of my main concerns is that I don't want a battery that's going to leak acid all over and turn my motorcycle frame into Iron Soup...

TIA for any advice guys!
I have used two OEM batteries and had great luck with both. Over 2.5 years on both. I gave my original away, its still going in buddies bike (so it's now 6 years old). The other I have on a Tender as a back up, near 100%. I replaced it with a battery from Batteries Plus which was more money, not as good. Avoid. OEM is better, cranks faster, lasts longer.

You may find something a few bucks cheaper than OEM but I think I only paid in the $50/$60 region from Babbit's Suzuki for my OEM batt.
Deals are out there for OEM batteries. Shop around for Suzuki dealers online.

The OEM is a sealed, MF (maintenance free). It's Made In Japan by Furukawa, FTX9-BS. As good ... or better ... than anything out there. Is shipped with Acid pack, so you activate it when you get it. (which I much prefer as initial charge is important to do right)

The new Lithium/Iron Shorai seems to be a step up; new tech, smaller, lighter package. More money but should out last stock Battery by double or more. Great in super cold, holds charge well. Does not need to be on a charger. The perfect travelers battery.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:09 PM   #70174
Albie
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Antigravity batteries are the new hotness. Lot more CCA then the Shorai, better warranty and made in the US instead of China. Of course they're more expensive as well $179 for the 98 + DR's
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:01 PM   #70175
DockingPilot
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Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:16 PM   #70176
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
I had a Motobatt on my Husky TE610 and really liked it. Especially the 2nd set of terminals was really nice.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:22 PM   #70177
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
Sure, its possible, but you'll be giving up a high beam or low beam depending on which way you decide.

Your headlight should be a 3 prong plug. 1 wire is ground, 1 is low beam, & 1 is high beam. The easiest way assuming you don't mind missing the high beam is just cut the high beam wire. You'll have no light on high beam, but will still have one on low.

Now if you really want high beam to be the "on position" and low beam to be off you'l you'll have to take the high beam wire and put it on the low beam part of the light and remove the low beam wire. That will mean your little blue high beam indicator will be on anytime you are running the low beam.

BTW, they do make switches with an off position that allow you to retain your low/high beam, but also have an off position too.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:23 PM   #70178
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Antigravity batteries are the new hotness. Lot more CCA then the Shorai, better warranty and made in the US instead of China. Of course they're more expensive as well $179 for the 98 + DR's
+1 there is a couple threads on here about Shorai and Antigravity and Antigravity did much better in the tests people were doing.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:53 PM   #70179
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
That would work if you snipped and capped the low beam wire at the headlight socket, but there is a much better way to add headlight switching and retain both beams by adding a relay and two diodes, under $10, works great...see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506789
I wired a Ducati up that way and posted some additional info that might be helpful at http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=32045 (the wire colors shown below are for Ducati, Suzuki colors different (HB is yellow IIRC) but otherwise wired the same)


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Old 10-17-2012, 04:07 PM   #70180
barko1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank

Yes! I installed a rocker switch so I could turn off the headlight to conserve power when running my electric vest and heated grips. My high beam works as it always does but if my added switch is off then there is no low headlight. If I turn my added switch on the the stock headlight switch and light works as usual, both high and low.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:47 PM   #70181
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
?
Thanks,
Frank
Yes, that's how my headlight is wired. I found the correct wires up in headlight Nacelle ... leave the HI/LO beam switch alone.

I originally ran the high beam wire through a separate switch I mounted in dash. In high beam position I could turn headlight light ON/OFF using my added switch. In low beam, light operates normally, switch has no affect.

When I added a single filament 35W HID I no longer had a high beam light, so now, high beam position is OFF, low beam is HID light. Wiring did not change other than to by-pass former ON/OFF switch, which is no longer needed with this set up.

Clear as mud, right?

The wires you want I think are yellow and red. (??) Trace them back from bulb and you can figure out where to cut and where to run your switch (if desired). I found this easier than trying to fiddle the delicate HI/LO switch on the handlebar.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:18 PM   #70182
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Just cleaning up some of the older parts on this bike, I've noticed that my turn signal switch has been very...sticky...for lack of a better word, and sometimes requires multiple strong presses to actually disengage the signals. At this point, it's mostly just irritating, but getting it moving smoothly again would go a long way towards helping the way this bike feels. Is there a particular kind of lubricant that I should use to grease it up if I took it apart, or is there maybe a relatively inexpensive place to order a brand new set of switch gear for my bike?
Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:23 PM   #70183
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Thanks fellas,
did it, easy-peasy.
If I'm riding on roads with cars I always have my hi beam on (modulated), never the low. So the low for me is kinda useless. Even at night because it just don't put out enough on either quite frankly. And I hardy ride at night. So to run my Gerbing jacket and gloves I can now just easily switch it on or off depending on the situation and what my 478c is reading for voltage.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:33 PM   #70184
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
nice catch. $8 more but it's 160cca vrs 120 on the Deka.
bike has to start really strong.
deka is us produced vrs china for the motobatt, but the chinese can produce quality if instructed to. not as many reviews of the motobatt vrs the deka (aka big crank and a bunch of other relabels). i'm on 3yrs with my deka and it still starts strong. at these prices, when the battery gets questionable after 4yrs i just pop for a new one.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:06 PM   #70185
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
You want to go back to stock?

What is the jetting it's running at the moment?

Should be a 145 main and 3rd or 4th from top clip on the needle.

I loved my TwinAir, drilled pipe, ProCycle jet kit and cut airbox.

I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
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