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Old 10-17-2012, 08:57 PM   #70186
barko1
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:33 AM   #70187
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
Does the problem get worse or better as the engine warms up?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:33 AM   #70188
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Now that the weather is getting cooler, I have a question about the oil cooler. My commute to work is short, about 10 mins). Today it was around 45*F and the oil temp barely got to 110*F as per my vapor. That includes a 2 minute warm up prior to riding.

Should I cover my oil cooler for these short rides so that the oil can get to a better operating temp?
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:45 AM   #70189
Zapp22
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Tejas Hill Country
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Question Transmission Rebuilders: a question

If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:59 AM   #70190
Zapp22
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i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:04 AM   #70191
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....
This is why Derek is a life saver.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:05 AM   #70192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings

I use Silicone Spray - more dielectric and lasts quite well.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:58 AM   #70193
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/201106011...ki-battery.pdf


Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.


I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf

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Old 10-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #70194
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/201106011...ki-battery.pdf
That's a lot of good information. You could put it in Krusty's DR Index.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

While you're doing that, you could include your earlier info about the clear turn signal lenses with amber bulbs. One of the first mods I did to my DR was to replace the turn sigs with some that have clear lenses/amber bulbs. Problem is they're brittle, break easily, and are no longer available.
Thanks for the good stuff.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:48 PM   #70195
Pike Bishop
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Your Back Yard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud390 View Post
I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
My 2009 DR650SE purchased from a dealer in the U.S. also starts with "JS1" followed by two letters, then 2 digits, then a letter, then nine digits.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:00 PM   #70196
neoxaero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?

I'm in the process of having mine rebuilt right now. I was having some issues with it falling out of 2nd gear so I decided to just bite the bullet.

From the reading I did prior to getting the work done, it seems in 06 or 07 suzuki released a new 3rd gear that replaced the old one. I'm assuming it was done in an effort to address the issues with the gear blowing up. I decided to go a head and replace my gear with the newest one instead of buying the billet unit. Hopefully I don't regret it, but I couldn't justify replacing a $50 dollar part with one that costs $500 when the stock one may or may not blow up at some point.

Obviously, If I trash the engine in the bike due to a 3rd gear failure I'll be kicking myself.

I may consider doing the nice 3rd gear when I put the 790 kit in the bike as a little bit of extra insurance
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:39 PM   #70197
NC Rick
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Cogent Dynamics is still looking to purchase or barter for a good set of DR650 forks...

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:36 PM   #70198
mrprez
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New to me '04 model

Totally stock '04 DR with just over 6000 miles. A bit rough cosmetically but will be the base for an ADV style bike. Let the farkeling begin!

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Old 10-18-2012, 03:47 PM   #70199
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
Totally stock '04 DR with just over 6000 miles. A bit rough cosmetically but will be the base for an ADV style bike. Let the farkeling begin!

If that's "rough," then my bike is laying beaten in a corner weeping. Nice buy!
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:52 PM   #70200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
If that's "rough," then my bike is laying beaten in a corner weeping. Nice buy!
Thanks! A camera can make most anyone look good. It should clean up OK though.
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