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Old 10-19-2012, 06:09 AM   #70216
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Interesting comment about the Deka being actually higher CCA than the rated @ 120. i've always had nothing to top service and life out of Deka and will continue to keep buy $60 http://www.tristatebattery.com/produ...roducts_id=973 for my DR.
After 4 yrs i just pay another $60 and have peace of mind for another 4yrs. Easy as pie.

Saving a few lbs on a Shorai when used in a heavy DR seemed more like a waste of $ IMO, but i know alot of guys love em. Sure on a light dirtbike where every lbs counts it makes sense, but the DR is heavy and not a dirtbike.

Crazy how Yuasa is getting those larger batteries in the same size and still using AGM. If you look at Deka sizing is does go up and what i'd expect.
http://www.etx9.com/
http://www.etx12.com/
http://www.etx14.com/

In the end, my $ is on a new Deka and 60 bones too.

------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.


I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf
Yup,worrying about weight on a DR is a little silly.
Like putting a 400.00 FMF muffler on,listening to all that noise,the bike still approaches 400 lbs with gas.
Ive used all manner of 60.00 batteries,most last 3 years. None have melted of their own accord like some Shorai's I have seen pics of.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:13 AM   #70217
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
If you don't want to create an account or anything, IMGUR.com is pretty solid. Just feed it pictures and it spits out a link.
I like that! Pretty easy to upload and get the link for the image.

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Old 10-19-2012, 06:17 AM   #70218
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?
The "evidence" on 3rd gear blowups is sketchy at best,less then 1% of all DR's scatter their engines for one reason or another,people look inside and think about all the 3rd gear explosions they have read about on the internet and decide that must be what happened.
Once the insides are fragmented,its hard to tell what really happened.

Some guys on the internet have picked up the 3rd gear blowup as a cause and have run with it as far as they can,to me,rebuilding a DR trans because it might blow up is a pricey thing to do,for a problem that most likely will never happen.

Race Proven DR parts? Who would race one of these tanks in Baja to prove the parts?
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:51 AM   #70219
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
OK. Does whether or not the cold start enrichment circuit is active make any difference to the severity of the surging?

Is the cold start enrichment circuit required to be active for it to start from cold?

Regards,

Derek
It Will start without the enricher, at idle i can turn the enricher on and the engine cuts off. At speed it makes no difference.

Thanks for all the help btw!

The tank is good and clean as well as the little filter in the fuel elbow, got that far. Plugs are light colored, kinda white maybe grey
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:52 AM   #70220
sharpblade
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[QUOTE=BergDonk;19851960]OTTOMH, 24 and 14 mm[/Q

Just discovered mine used a 17 mm wrench for the oil plug.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:36 AM   #70221
Minsk99
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[QUOTE=sharpblade;19853223]
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
OTTOMH, 24 and 14 mm[/Q

Just discovered mine used a 17 mm wrench for the oil plug.
The stock is 17mm. Many of the aftermarket, magnetic plugs are 14mm.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:38 AM   #70222
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
The "evidence" on 3rd gear blowups is sketchy at best,less then 1% of all DR's scatter their engines for one reason or another,people look inside and think about all the 3rd gear explosions they have read about on the internet and decide that must be what happened.
Once the insides are fragmented,its hard to tell what really happened.

Some guys on the internet have picked up the 3rd gear blowup as a cause and have run with it as far as they can,to me,rebuilding a DR trans because it might blow up is a pricey thing to do,for a problem that most likely will never happen.

Race Proven DR parts? Who would race one of these tanks in Baja to prove the parts?
3rd gear takes a beating in my bike. If I am riding hard I often downshift two gears into a corner and clutch it. Depending on how much I want the back to slide around I use the engine breaking a lot in 3rd gear. If a gear is going to go in my bike it is going to be 3rd.

On my bikes with 6 speeds it will be 4th.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:54 AM   #70223
PPCLI-Jim
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Race Proven DR parts? Who would race one of these tanks in Baja to prove the parts? I would if I was a little healthier. (drove over a landmine in Afghanistan) I still have taken mine on race tracks that are modified Trials tracks. they opened them up for bigger bikes(MX ones I found out later.) After the ride guys walked up and asked did I lose a bet or did I just hate myself. Just a dumba$$ if your gonna be dumb you got to be tough
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:56 AM   #70224
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
the enricher on the left handlebar? it makes no difference at speed. I turned it on while on the highway at nearly 70mph and noticed no difference.
Is the cold start enrichment circuit required to be active for it to start from cold?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:07 AM   #70225
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Is the cold start enrichment circuit required to be active for it to start from cold?

Regards,

Derek
per his prior post:
"It Will start without the enricher, at idle i can turn the enricher on and the engine cuts off. At speed it makes no difference."

i suspect it's running a bit rich...

doug s.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:54 AM   #70226
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
per his prior post:
"It Will start without the enricher, at idle i can turn the enricher on and the engine cuts off. At speed it makes no difference."
It doesn't specifically say cold (unless it says so elsewhere in the referred-to post).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:30 AM   #70227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
2004, 6281 miles. I'm gonna check the bulb first and then order up a new gasket. Another thing I noticed that it won't start with the side stand down.

Edit: Checked the bulb, it is fine. On to plan B.
When I R&R'd my rear shock, I forgot to plug in the NSU plug up by the upper shock bolt. My engine wouldn't start with the side stand down either. So you are looking in the right place.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:31 AM   #70228
JagLite
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Question Loud horn?

In case you are tired of reading carb discussions, I just posted this in the "Gear" section but I don't want any of my fellow DR riders to miss it:

I just read about the Screaming Banshee on Jalopnik (car news website) and it sounds (har-har-har!) great.
So I went to their website and see the new plug & play version is ready to ship.
Also a great price break in a group buy deal of 10 units.

Anyone want to put together a group?
I am in Alaska so it is not reasonable for me to organize one but I want to be in on it.

Here is the direct linky
http://www.indiegogo.com/PlugAndPlayScreamer#team

Scroll to the Expanded Club Pack deal for 10 units at $59 each.
Actually I would probably like two or three of them for my bikes.
Hmmmmm, I have 4 street & DS bikes, 3 cars......
I would like to get one for each but that just isn't in the budget.

Anyone?
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:33 AM   #70229
Gustavo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post

Race Proven DR parts? Who would race one of these tanks in Baja to prove the parts?

You gotta be a bit crazy to try that...


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Old 10-19-2012, 11:24 AM   #70230
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figured id post up before i head home and begin pulling parts off...

Last week I noticed that my speedo wasnt working at all, assumed the cable was gone, so i pulled it off, noticed a couple inches were left in my wheel speed sensor, and pulled it out as well. checked that the speedo head wasnt locked up and it spun freely. Ordered a motion pro cable from procycle on a friday afternoon and it was on my desk by the following monday (Procycle FTW!) Popped it in with no problem, and rode it down the driveway and it worked, so I parked it, rode to and from work the next two days with no problem. Yesterday morning was particularly cold, (it was actually below freezing) not sure if that had anything to do with my problem, but the speedo was nonresponsive/jumping erratically as I rode down the driveway. by the time i got to the road (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mile) it was working fine, and continued to do so till I came to a stop, then it acted the same till I got up through 4th gear or so and it was fine. Today it did the same thing in the morning, and I just went to lunch and on my way back from lunch I noticed the speedo needle wasnt moving at all.

Obviously im posting up in hopes 10-15 of you will chime in an tell me im an idiot for not changing the speed sensor, or some other known to fail part when the cable goes, I'll call myself an idiot, and order up the parts. otherwise, im gonna start pulling off parts tomorrow morning and trying to find out why the cable has failed. thanks in advance!
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