the DR650 thread - Page 4685

Lil' Steve · 10-15-2012, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disconnected

I just thought the other guy was picking on me..

Carbs have been a regular discussion lately so that might explain the lack of explanation.

mud390 · 10-15-2012, 01:27 PM

I was looking for options for short, adjustable levers for the DR650 and came up with very few choices. I was really looking for unbreakable (type that pivots up if it hits something) but found nothing. I thought about swapping perches with a SV650 but dislike the way the front master cylinder is mounted. A little parts book scouring led me to discover that the DL650 (Vstrom) and SV650 naked use the same levers for clutch and brake. Since they levers are the same part number, their sizing should be the same, meaning that the world of fancy, shiny levers just exponentially expanded. The perches look identical for clutch, but the brake on the DL650 has the front master cylinder like a DR, except the line output is facing the fork, not forward. It appears that there is enough clearance to rotate the line for proper routing. My questions are as follows:

1. Do you know if the DR and DL front master cylinder have the same bore, stroke, and brake line hardware size? If the DL is larger in bore and stroke, I'm good with that.
2. Will the DL perches fit a stock DR bar?
3. Do you think the difference in brake line output locations will affect routing/operation?

TinMan207 · 10-15-2012, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mud390

I was looking for options for short, adjustable levers for the DR650 and came up with very few choices. I was really looking for unbreakable

I don't know about the other questions that you asked, but the previous owner of My DR installed an ASV "unbreakable" clutch on it. works well for me, but I have no idea how to tell which lever it is.

Hoping this helps.

neo1piv014 · 10-15-2012, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vfr870

Carbs have been a regular discussion lately so that might explain the lack of explanation.

My bad.

deathu · 10-15-2012, 02:29 PM

Just a quick note, DO use the clip on the vacuum cap. I did not know about this, and although it was a tight fit mine just fell off during a ride, maybe some 300 miles after installing the tank. The crazy exhaust popping at idle immediately got me thinking of a vacuum leak. Anyway, not a nice thing to fix on the side of the road.

Quote:

Originally Posted by disconnected

I just thought the other guy was picking on me..

Quote:

Originally Posted by vfr870

Suzuki part #'s for a rubber vacuum cap and small spring clamp that will fit over where the vaccum hose is now. Or the cover which has no vacuum port. Your local auto parts store should have an assortment of vacuum caps/plugs for a couple of bucks.

procycle · 10-15-2012, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mud390

I was looking for options for short, adjustable levers for the DR650 and came up with very few choices. I was really looking for unbreakable (type that pivots up if it hits something) but found nothing.

Check here --> http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#shortlevers

TinMan207 · 10-15-2012, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by procycle

Check here --> http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#shortlevers

ohhhh man! people have to stop linking to your site! My list of "gotta haves"
get's bigger every darned time.

Mongle · 10-15-2012, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deathu

Just a quick note, DO use the clip on the vacuum cap. I did not know about this, and although it was a tight fit mine just fell off during a ride, maybe some 300 miles after installing the tank. The crazy exhaust popping at idle immediately got me thinking of a vacuum leak. Anyway, not a nice thing to fix on the side of the road.

I see a lot of rubber products that are swelling up just from the gas fumes. Don't know if it is the ethanol or something else they are putting in there. The boat world is pulling their hair out due to these problems. They still run a lot of flexible fuel lines (unlike cars) and have vapor tanks with rubber like diaphrams.

I carry of couple of spares with me now. Use a small zip tie to hold it on. They have been lasting about 9 months before falling apart completely.

sharpblade · 10-15-2012, 03:07 PM

I havn't had a dr650 for 3 years. But today I bought a new 2012 charcoal gray one. Rode it home from the dealership about 40 miles and was so impressed. I had forgotten how nimble it was. So excited and I'm 65 years old.

PPCLI-Jim · 10-15-2012, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TinMan207

ohhhh man! people have to stop linking to your site! My list of "gotta haves"
get's bigger every darned time.

I know that feeling . every time my CC comes close to getting paid off i see a shiny Farckle.

Sierra Thumper · 10-15-2012, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deathu

Just a quick note, DO use the clip on the vacuum cap. I did not know about this, and although it was a tight fit mine just fell off during a ride, maybe some 300 miles after installing the tank. The crazy exhaust popping at idle immediately got me thinking of a vacuum leak. Anyway, not a nice thing to fix on the side of the road.

From a lifetime of riding dirt and street, I've learned to secure EVERYTHING on my machines extra well, good clamps, springs, lock/jam nuts, zipties, locktite etc just to be safe. It completely stopped me from having parts loosen up on rides

Feyala · 10-15-2012, 04:24 PM

Long story short, I parked my DR, returned an hour later, it tried to crank once and from that point forward the starter button is about as useful as tits on a bull.

There is no clicking sound when I push it. Nada. The headlights and signals etc still work.

Being in possession of a manual, I set to work. I have checked the following:

* Starter relay is not getting juice when I push it.
* Already disabled the kickstand switch, rechecked the wires and appears to still be kosher.
* Disabled the clutch safety switch by plugging the wires together.
* The PO destroyed the handlebar kill switch, I have double checked these wires twice now and they appear fine.
* Checked neutral connector, seems fine.
* Diode is fine.
* Fuses appear unbroken.
* Battery appears to be in good condition, and no drop in voltage when starter button is applied (expected).

I have some kind of open circuit before juice hits the starter relay, this much seems obvious to me. Especially as headlights work.

The manual does not offer a procedure to test the ignition switch, and google has failed me. I am certain rain has been getting inside - the flap that closes when you remove the key does not work. I have had to use graphite to get the cylinder to move the last few days (new) and the bike was drenched overnight the day before this started.

I would like to know:
* How to test the ignition switch, hopefully without disassembling it?
* What process would you follow to test the wires themselves for an open circuit? Where to begin?
* Is there a temporary way to bypass the ignition switch for testing purposes? I have found info on permanently removing it but I would like to keep the ignition for security.
* Anything I may have overlooked?

I am completely new to diagnosing electrical problems (today was the first I've used a multimeter) so please "dumb down" any advice.

Thanks in advance! This is a real downer mid-tour!

ER70S-2 · 10-15-2012, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharpblade

I havn't had a dr650 for 3 years. But today I bought a new 2012 charcoal gray one. Rode it home from the dealership about 40 miles and was so impressed. I had forgotten how nimble it was. So excited and I'm 65 years old.

Welcome, '47 was a very good year.

You'll need a seat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Feyala

Long story short, I parked my DR, returned an hour later, it tried to crank once and from that point forward the starter button is about as useful as tits on a bull.

Thanks in advance! This is a real downer mid-tour!

Mine does that about once a year and it's been loose battery terminals.

Feyala · 10-15-2012, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Welcome, '47 was a very good year.

You'll need a seat.

Mine does that about once a year and it's been loose battery terminals.

Battery terminals are fine.

While doing my "Murphy check" before worrying about the ignition, I pulled apart the starter button itself. I accidentally bridged the solder points on the back of the button and it fired up and ran like a top. Going to try to repair the button or replace it with something from Radioshack. I feel dumb but not as dumb as I would have if I paid for somebody to haul me back to Portland.

oktulsa17 · 10-15-2012, 06:32 PM

This may have been covered somewhere but I'm too lazy to look. Took my '06 to New Mexico recently and it had real problems trying to get to speed as the altitude rose Crossed the Continental divide and on I-40 just had real problems staying out of everybodies way. Just cutting out and spuddering alot. I bought it used and I think the carb has been monkeyed with. It was doing this to some extent in OK at closer to 600 ft, but was real noticeable in NM.

It's back to 'normal' but I'd like to get it running better and maybe know what to do to max performance when I get to altitude.

10-15-2012, 04:24 PM	#70272
Feyala Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2011 Location: Wandering... Oddometer: 319	Dead DR - ignition? Long story short, I parked my DR, returned an hour later, it tried to crank once and from that point forward the starter button is about as useful as tits on a bull. There is no clicking sound when I push it. Nada. The headlights and signals etc still work. Being in possession of a manual, I set to work. I have checked the following: * Starter relay is not getting juice when I push it. * Already disabled the kickstand switch, rechecked the wires and appears to still be kosher. * Disabled the clutch safety switch by plugging the wires together. * The PO destroyed the handlebar kill switch, I have double checked these wires twice now and they appear fine. * Checked neutral connector, seems fine. * Diode is fine. * Fuses appear unbroken. * Battery appears to be in good condition, and no drop in voltage when starter button is applied (expected). I have some kind of open circuit before juice hits the starter relay, this much seems obvious to me. Especially as headlights work. The manual does not offer a procedure to test the ignition switch, and google has failed me. I am certain rain has been getting inside - the flap that closes when you remove the key does not work. I have had to use graphite to get the cylinder to move the last few days (new) and the bike was drenched overnight the day before this started. I would like to know: * How to test the ignition switch, hopefully without disassembling it? * What process would you follow to test the wires themselves for an open circuit? Where to begin? * Is there a temporary way to bypass the ignition switch for testing purposes? I have found info on permanently removing it but I would like to keep the ignition for security. * Anything I may have overlooked? I am completely new to diagnosing electrical problems (today was the first I've used a multimeter) so please "dumb down" any advice. Thanks in advance! This is a real downer mid-tour! __________________ Ongoing Ride Report: Wherever I May Roam - One Woman Livin' on a DR650 Feyala's Wanderings

10-15-2012, 06:32 PM	#70275
oktulsa17 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2007 Location: God's country and he can have it. Oddometer: 199	Running rough at altitude This may have been covered somewhere but I'm too lazy to look. Took my '06 to New Mexico recently and it had real problems trying to get to speed as the altitude rose Crossed the Continental divide and on I-40 just had real problems staying out of everybodies way. Just cutting out and spuddering alot. I bought it used and I think the carb has been monkeyed with. It was doing this to some extent in OK at closer to 600 ft, but was real noticeable in NM. It's back to 'normal' but I'd like to get it running better and maybe know what to do to max performance when I get to altitude. __________________ ... I was born on the prairie where the wind blew free and there was nothing to break the light of the sun. I was born where there were no inclosures and where everything drew a free breath. I want to die there and not within walls Chief Ten Bears 1867

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10-15-2012, 01:27 PM	#70262
mud390 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Japan Oddometer: 160	I was looking for options for short, adjustable levers for the DR650 and came up with very few choices. I was really looking for unbreakable (type that pivots up if it hits something) but found nothing. I thought about swapping perches with a SV650 but dislike the way the front master cylinder is mounted. A little parts book scouring led me to discover that the DL650 (Vstrom) and SV650 naked use the same levers for clutch and brake. Since they levers are the same part number, their sizing should be the same, meaning that the world of fancy, shiny levers just exponentially expanded. The perches look identical for clutch, but the brake on the DL650 has the front master cylinder like a DR, except the line output is facing the fork, not forward. It appears that there is enough clearance to rotate the line for proper routing. My questions are as follows: 1. Do you know if the DR and DL front master cylinder have the same bore, stroke, and brake line hardware size? If the DL is larger in bore and stroke, I'm good with that. 2. Will the DL perches fit a stock DR bar? 3. Do you think the difference in brake line output locations will affect routing/operation?

10-15-2012, 03:07 PM	#70269
sharpblade Adventurer Joined: Jul 2006 Oddometer: 73	I havn't had a dr650 for 3 years. But today I bought a new 2012 charcoal gray one. Rode it home from the dealership about 40 miles and was so impressed. I had forgotten how nimble it was. So excited and I'm 65 years old.