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Old 10-20-2012, 03:21 AM   #70261
Kernel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Oh excellent, it's being done already. Can't wait for them to make this available in Australia.
BTW the picture is of the Hayes bike I mentioned, not the altius.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:27 AM   #70262
Willwilkins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Good Lord......my suggestion..get a smaller bike. If thats you on that bike you make it look like an xr650l on steroids DR's aren't normally skyscraper tall, so I'm guessing thats about a 5 footer sitting on it. A lower, lighter bike will definately stop and handle better And that 7 gallon tank isn't going to help stopping any
First time I've ever seen someone make the stock bars look like apehangers

Now show us some real pics
And if those ARE real pics forgive me.....its all in fun
The other problem is that when I go really fast, my skirt keeps blowing up. Can you help?


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Old 10-20-2012, 03:35 AM   #70263
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Laugh As the Beatles would say..."I can help"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willwilkins View Post
The other problem is that when I go really fast, my skirt keeps blowing up. Can you help?


Whatever you need
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:37 AM   #70264
PhL0aTeR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Also be aware of the little cable guide loop on the fender for the speedo cable. If your cable does not pass through the guide, then on hard stops or off road riding the speedo cable will be stressed and break prematurely.
All good there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
If you don't wind up being able to get it working and it looks like you're going to have to buy a new speedometer unit, I'd recommend saving your money and just snagging a TrailTech Vapor or something. Honestly, I'd probably go ahead and do it anyways lol. Got to start the farkling somewhere.
I spent an hour thinking about getting the vapor before i ordered the cable last week, so I'm already halfway there.... Lol. Honestly,i couldn't find a decent pic of a vapor installed to give me a good idea of what it would look like.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:04 AM   #70265
TRAVELGUY
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Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
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Sealed Rims on DR

Planning a month or longer trip into Mexico this winter. Thinking of sealing my DR rims so that I could run tubeless and just plug a tire if I get a nail or something. A lot quicker and easier than changing a tube on the side of the road. I read in another older thread that Grifter was planning on doing that to his DR but there was no results posted. Has anyone done this on their DR and what were the results, I am running stock wheels so the Tubeliss system is not a option? What about running tires designed for tubes tubeless on sealed rims without tubes?

I have already decided on the rims sealing procedure that I will and have supplies on hand. Just interested in the results that other DR riders have had.

Thanks;

TravelGuy
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:40 AM   #70266
lamotovita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post

I have already decided on the rims sealing procedure that I will and have supplies on hand.

TravelGuy
Sorry I don't have any DR experience to relate but I'd like to know what "procedure" you will be using.
I've never heard of a succesfull tubeless conversion on rims without a tubeless type bead area (safety bead).
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:42 AM   #70267
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Planning a month or longer trip into Mexico this winter. Thinking of sealing my DR rims so that I could run tubeless and just plug a tire if I get a nail or something. A lot quicker and easier than changing a tube on the side of the road. I read in another older thread that Grifter was planning on doing that to his DR but there was no results posted. Has anyone done this on their DR and what were the results, I am running stock wheels so the Tubeliss system is not a option? What about running tires designed for tubes tubeless on sealed rims without tubes?

I have already decided on the rims sealing procedure that I will and have supplies on hand. Just interested in the results that other DR riders have had.

Thanks;

TravelGuy
Sorry for not doing a better update on my Tubeless attempt. I used a 3M
Marine sealer for the spoke nipples and enlarged the valve stem hole for a tubeless valve stem. It would not hold air.

I'm not sure of the reason. I think the tubeless Distanzia I used would not butt up close enough to the stock 17" wheel bead to form a seal. Could not air it up ... or .... some how I missed something (quite possible) and didn't seal the wheel good enough??

The very best option on this, IMHO, is to send your DR650 wheel to Woody's Wheel Works and let him seal it up right to make it a tubeless affair.

But here is my worry:
Lets say you get a flat on the road. You plug the hole ... but lets say the bead has broken (this typically won't happen on a real tubeless rim, but the stock DR rim is NOT a tubeless rim) So if the bead is broken ... how do you re-inflate on the side of the road with CO-2 or hand pump?

Woody may recommend you buy a NEW WHEEL that will work tubeless, but that could limit tire choice. So some things to think over.

Anyway, just my thoughts. Not many have done this on a DR650 that I know of. I hope you will follow up with any info you find on this and do a better job than I did documenting.

All the best!
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:45 PM   #70268
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willwilkins View Post
I love my DR650, had it since new and done loads of mods to improve it, except the brakes. How d'you make them stop better? The brakes on mine have always left me feeling pretty underwhelmed. I've got braided hoses and decent pads, but there's a fair bit of weight to haul up especially if loaded.
Any mods/comments
There are few options to choose here:
One is to service your calipers, clean/polish pistons well, bleed all fluid & air out of system. Add New fluid. Next, clean up rotors with Steel Wool or light sanding, then wipe off with Brake Clean. Clean rotors every month or so.

Next:
I had been using less expensive EBC pads on my DR650 for a couple years. Braking force seemed to get worse as they wore down. I swapped in an old pair on OEM Nissin pads ... and WOW! Braking was up by about 20%! I believe EBC pads glaze and bite is reduced over time/use.

I've since gone back to Nissin pads. Deals can be found on them if you dig around the net. Way better performance in my experience. Rear brake, EBC seems to work OK. I don't want a really over sensitive rear brake, so the Red EBC pads out back are OK for now ... and they last well.

Next option UP is to go with a bigger front Rotor. EBC make one and probably others like: Braking, Galfer and Nissin and various Chinese options on EBay. Most provide an adapter ... so pretty much plug and play.
Should make BIG improvement in braking power up front.

I would start with the cheap things and work your way up.
I know where you're coming from carrying all the weight on a RTW ride. Lots of extra weight really points out the weakness of standard braking.

Mongolia on a DR!! How did that go?
Good luck with your book!
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:49 PM   #70269
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
you are right - perhaps a faulty assumption on my part to assume when he answered your question about cold start, he did not mean the engine was actually cold. i guess we need to wait for werification from the source.

doug s.
It will start without the enricher from cold, meaning cold motor not ran that day.
It starts beautifully, idles smooth too.
I taped the airbox 3/4 closed up couple days ago and finally got around to riding it a bit ago (im at work) and that made it worse, twist the throttle a bit fast and it boggs down. I cleaned the little elbow fiter and same thing. again, plugs were a little on the whitish-greyish side s I dunno. exhaust smells like a damn lawn mower.

I have a rattle somewhere I cant diagnose when I hit some bumps almost a squeal kinda tin sounding. I had some barkbuster knockoffs but they wouldnt work and one of the threaded stoppers inside the handlebars is missing so need to change them out, they are older purple bars on a yellow bike when it gets a bit colder im gonna need some wind deflectors.
stupid kickstand hits the swingarm also, nice little groove there.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:04 PM   #70270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
It will start without the enricher from cold, meaning cold motor not ran that day.
It starts beautifully, idles smooth too.
I taped the airbox 3/4 closed up couple days ago and finally got around to riding it a bit ago (im at work) and that made it worse, twist the throttle a bit fast and it boggs down. I cleaned the little elbow fiter and same thing. again, plugs were a little on the whitish-greyish side s I dunno. exhaust smells like a damn lawn mower.

I have a rattle somewhere I cant diagnose when I hit some bumps almost a squeal kinda tin sounding. I had some barkbuster knockoffs but they wouldnt work and one of the threaded stoppers inside the handlebars is missing so need to change them out, they are older purple bars on a yellow bike when it gets a bit colder im gonna need some wind deflectors.
stupid kickstand hits the swingarm also, nice little groove there.
your bike is definitely running too rich. which is why it runs even worse when taping up the airbox - that only makes things richer. i don't know much about the stock carbie, but i would try lowering the main needle or leaning out the mixture screw...

doug s.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:16 PM   #70271
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willwilkins View Post
I love my DR650, had it since new and done loads of mods to improve it, except the brakes. How d'you make them stop better? The brakes on mine have always left me feeling pretty underwhelmed. I've got braided hoses and decent pads, but there's a fair bit of weight to haul up especially if loaded.
Any mods/comments
Well there is always the 320mm kit.
What exactly are your 'decent pads'? The oem Suzuki pads are good, some of the aftermarket stuff is not so good. The best I have run across are EBC MXS. They are not listed for the DR but are the same as 07 Yamaha WR450 which is listed. I bought some for my WR and noticed that both bikes use the same model Nissin caliper. So I tried them, and wow, very noticable difference.
Is there any posssibility that the pads you have have been overheated and glazed? If so pull the pads out and deglaze them by rubbing in a figure 8 motion on a piece of #180 sand paper on a flat surface. Give the disc a light sanding also.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:22 PM   #70272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post

Next:
I had been using less expensive EBC pads on my DR650 for a couple years. Braking force seemed to get worse as they wore down. I swapped in an old pair on OEM Nissin pads ... and WOW! Braking was up by about 20%! I believe EBC pads glaze and bite is reduced over time/use.

I've since gone back to Nissin pads. Deals can be found on them if you dig around the net. Way better performance in my experience. Rear brake, EBC seems to work OK. I don't want a really over sensitive rear brake, so the Red EBC pads out back are OK for now ... and they last well.
I have tried those red EBC kelvar pads also, even new they have 20% less power than the oem stuff.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:31 PM   #70273
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
It will start without the enricher from cold, meaning cold motor not ran that day.
It starts beautifully, idles smooth too.
I taped the airbox 3/4 closed up couple days ago and finally got around to riding it a bit ago (im at work) and that made it worse, twist the throttle a bit fast and it boggs down.
As doug s. says, the fact that it will start from cold with no enrichment and the fact that taping up the airbox makes things worse both point to a rich condition. The fact that there is no change in the severity of the condition when the bike warms up points to a severe rich condition. There are a number of things that can be responsible for a rich condition in the 1/16-1/4 throttle opening range (this range corresponds to cruise). They are:

Incorrect needle shape (example: DynoJet needle).
Emulsion tube worn out due to worn out slide guide.
Fuel level to high due to too little float height, faulty float needle, or faulty needle seat o-ring.
Clipped slide spring.
Sticking cold start enrichment plunger, due to a missing return spring or a kinked/otherwise binding cable.
Jet needle too high (i.e clip too low)..
Pilot jet too large.
Main jet too large.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:39 PM   #70274
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
It will start without the enricher from cold, meaning cold motor not ran that day.
It starts beautifully, idles smooth too.
I taped the airbox 3/4 closed up couple days ago and finally got around to riding it a bit ago (im at work) and that made it worse, twist the throttle a bit fast and it boggs down. I cleaned the little elbow fiter and same thing. again, plugs were a little on the whitish-greyish side s I dunno. exhaust smells like a damn lawn mower.
.
If you went from a wide open air box (top) to 3/4 closed, that is a huge swing at the air intake with the duct tape. But at least you know what rich feels like now.
My thoughts originally were that you had a lean surge going on when cruising and accelerating, which is why I suggested taping the opening a little.

From your comments about the enricher I would agree with Doug that you are probably rich most everywhere now.
Before tearing into the carb (which may be inevitable) I would try turning the pilot screw in a little to lean out the idle circuit a little and removing about half the tape you put on. Then see what it does.
Remember the tape is only a quick fix to maybe get you in the ball park and help determine if it's lean or rich-- not a solution.

Also did you note the location of the carb VENT filter (not gas) . It should not be hanging down in the airbox, but off to the side a little or the intake pulses in the airbox can mess with the carb slide and cause a surge.

Good luck!

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Old 10-20-2012, 02:56 PM   #70275
motolab
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Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
From your comments about the enricher I would agree with Doug that you are probably rich most everywhere now.
I could be wrong, but I think he was saying that it would start easily from cold before he taped the airbox. Plus, so little air is required at idle, I doubt taping the airbox would affect starting.

Regards,

Derek
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