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Old 10-20-2012, 03:13 PM   #70276
Rumlover
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Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I could be wrong, but I think he was saying that it would start easily from cold before he taped the airbox. Plus, so little air is required at idle, I doubt taping the airbox would affect starting.

Regards,

Derek
Your correct. I hope I am not confusing the issue.

My thoughts were (now that we know it starts without the enricher) that there are possibly two issues going on.
1) pilot screw opened too much (so no enricher needed to start).
2) And what I thought was originally a lean issue on the needle and or main (causing surging), is now a rich condition because of the excess tape.

That is why I suggested backing off the tape and turning the pilot screw in.
Probably too many opinions now --- I will bow out to avoid confusing the issue.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:20 PM   #70277
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Front Brake

If everything is up to scratch, a bigger disc is what's needed like others said. Its on my to do list. One other thing I did in addtion to a braided line was fit a Brembo master cylinder. Its got a smaller bore, so needs a bit more travel for the same force. With the braided line compensating, its a more progressive and controllable action, but ultimately, no more powerfull.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:28 PM   #70278
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
2) And what I thought was originally a lean issue on the needle and or main (causing surging), is now a rich condition because of the excess tape.
I had considered that, except that he also stated that without the tape, there was no difference in severity when the bike warmed up. Normally if the mixture was lean, matters would improve as the engine warmed up, and he said they didn't. Also consider that it takes a massive change to go from a lean surge to a rich surge. After all, the mixture has to be way, way rich to produce a symptom, whereas it only has to be a little lean (comparatively). To illustrate, the ideal CO% is ~3-5. Lean symptoms will begin to manifest around 2%, whereas rich symptoms won't until somewhere around the 12-13% mark.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:39 PM   #70279
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
I have tried those red EBC kelvar pads also, even new they have 20% less power than the oem stuff.
For the front brake I was referring to the EBC sintered pads. Pretty much their best pad. They are well below the performance of the OEM Nissin pads.
Both are rated HH ... the Nissin is worlds better in my experience, but do wear quickly if used hard.

The red EBC Kevlar ones I use in the rear brake. They are fine for me, don't need a lot of power there ... and can still lock up easy enough. I tend to drag the rear brake, so the hard wearing Red Kevlar ones seem pretty good. YMMV.
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #70280
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 702
You guys are awesome, thanks so much for the help and all the great info on diagnosing the issue.
I wont have another chance to peel away some tape until Monday when I am back at work (the bike is parked there) but I'll let you know what happens!
It was just confusing because the plugs did not indicate a rich condition.
so the consensus is remove some tape and turn in the mixture screw?
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:58 PM   #70281
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Sorry for not doing a better update on my Tubeless attempt. I used a 3M
Marine sealer for the spoke nipples and enlarged the valve stem hole for a tubeless valve stem. It would not hold air. I have some valve stems from NAPA that the guy that developed this procedure recommends. Fits stock rim hole.

The procedure I'm am planning on using uses two different materials. The guy that posted the procedure has done several of his bikes and done extensive riding. If I do go with sealing the rims hopefully this will do the job.

I'm not sure of the reason. I think the tubeless Distanzia I used would not butt up close enough to the stock 17" wheel bead to form a seal. Could not air it up ... or .... some how I missed something (quite possible) and didn't seal the wheel good enough?? ?? The originator of the procedure I plan to use says due a bathtub test and reseal any leaks.

The very best option on this, IMHO, is to send your DR650 wheel to Woody's Wheel Works and let him seal it up right to make it a tubeless affair. Have thought of that but don't have the time or money.

But here is my worry:
Lets say you get a flat on the road. You plug the hole ... but lets say the bead has broken (this typically won't happen on a real tubeless rim, but the stock DR rim is NOT a tubeless rim) So if the bead is broken ... how do you re-inflate on the side of the road with CO-2 or hand pump? I have been concerned about that happening, since I have never had a flat tire on the road or dirt 300.000 miles I feel sure it has to happen this trip. My riding buddy will have a large compressed air bottle with him and there is always using a little pour of gas and a match, boom!!!

Woody may recommend you buy a NEW WHEEL that will work tubeless, but that could limit tire choice. So some things to think over.

Anyway, just my thoughts. Not many have done this on a DR650 that I know of. I hope you will follow up with any info you find on this and do a better job than I did documenting.

All the best!
Grifter thanks for your response and input. If I do seal the rims I will try to post results.

TravelGuy
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:16 PM   #70282
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
so the consensus is remove some tape and turn in the mixture screw?
You could adjust the pilot screw via the following method:

Start the engine and warm it up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Report back with the setting.

In order to determine whether, as Rumlover suggested, the mixture was lean before the tape was applied and is only now rich, you could gradually remove more and more tape, testing after each change. If he is right, there will be a sweet spot where it runs better than it does now as well as how it ran un-taped. If the problem gradually gets better as you untape, but never gets better at any stage than before it was taped or now, then you started out too rich and taping only made it richer.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:01 PM   #70283
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR View Post
All good there.

I spent an hour thinking about getting the vapor before i ordered the cable last week, so I'm already halfway there.... Lol. Honestly,i couldn't find a decent pic of a vapor installed to give me a good idea of what it would look like.
This was just a quick search, but I remember there being better videos out there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1KSaYo-Wpk
If I understand the instruction manual for the Vapor unit, it's basically just a handlebar mount. The mounting bracket goes around your handlebar in much the same way you'd install a RAM mount. Then, the vapor bolts up to that, so it sits closer to the bars than the stock unit. However, it looks like they make it very easy to fab up your own mounting system, so you could probably just do whatever the hell you wanted with it.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:56 PM   #70284
JTB488
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Sorry I don't have a pic, but the Vapor does come with an aluminum bracket that you can use to mount it to the front of the upper triple clamp.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:30 AM   #70285
greener556
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTB488 View Post
Sorry I don't have a pic, but the Vapor does come with an aluminum bracket that you can use to mount it to the front of the upper triple clamp.

Highway Dirtbikes has some interesting stuff..

I'm planning on getting a billet Vapor mount from HDB and relocating my key switch this winter.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:44 AM   #70286
Minsk99
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Cambridge, MA
Oddometer: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTB488 View Post
Sorry I don't have a pic, but the Vapor does come with an aluminum bracket that you can use to mount it to the front of the upper triple clamp.
Might want to double check that. Mine did not come with an aluminum bracket, but it did come with a plastic bracket that clamps to the handle bars. I believe that bracket you mention comes with the protective case that many order with the Vapor.

I have been happy with the placement using the plastic clamp. It is actually is a better placement if you intend to keep and use the stock speedo (I like the mechanical odo and trip meeter).
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:41 AM   #70287
sandwash
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Location: Flagstaff Az
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Vapor home made Alium mount:

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Old 10-21-2012, 11:13 AM   #70288
Luisgv
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Venezuela
Oddometer: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
So is there any opinions on this? Is this chain movement normal? Sure doesn't seem normal to me. What could be causing this?
Hello friend, i think your DR need a chain adjustment, remember that the chain when is properly adjusted must move about 10 mm. More than that is a loose chain.. if need a better reference, the maintenance manual may be helpfully.

Hope it help.
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:10 PM   #70289
PPCLI-Jim
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Eh? Vapor dash

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=bedbb74d41 shows the dash on my DR which I am still working on with the Vapor installed . From the factory it comes with a little clamp/base that connects to your handlebars. Unless you purchase the high speed bar mount made from alum. I like it the light isnt over poweringat night and its always easy to see unless you are at a realy odd angle from it.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:49 PM   #70290
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luisgv View Post
Hello friend, i think your DR need a chain adjustment, remember that the chain when is properly adjusted must move about 10 mm. More than that is a loose chain.. if need a better reference, the maintenance manual may be helpfully.

Hope it help.
Actually, the manual says 30-45 mm
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