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Old 10-21-2012, 10:15 PM   #70306
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
For those of you who've tinkered with dr650 suspension mods I've got a question:

If you could have ANYTHING done on yours what would it be; forks from a donor bike, different swingarm and/or shock or would the ultimate fix be too cost prohibitive wherein a prudent person would save the cash and apply towards a different bike altogether?
Forks from a donor bike (re-sprung and valved for the weight) and a fully-adjustable shock with appropriate spring. Cogent is usually highly recommended for DR shocks. I'd like to have a remote preload adjuster too.

Note: I'm not riding a 350-400lb adv-thumper like a MX/XC racebike. I'm riding at an exploratory/fun pace when offroad. If I wanted to skim whoops and clear triples, I'd be on a 300lb-or-lighter bike.The DR's thin-wall frame isn't designed to take that kind of abuse with a load of luggage anyway. If I can get 3-4' of air and hit 6-12" ruts without bottoming/wallowing, I call it good enough.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:37 PM   #70307
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=bedbb74d41 shows the dash on my DR which I am still working on with the Vapor installed . From the factory it comes with a little clamp/base that connects to your handlebars. Unless you purchase the high speed bar mount made from alum. I like it the light isnt over poweringat night and its always easy to see unless you are at a realy odd angle from it.
the PO of my bike made a clever Vapor mount from aluminum angle and rivets, works great and is light...

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:12 AM   #70308
PPCLI-Jim
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My only issue with the current design like the DR Vapor setup is the difficulty getting to the key, if you have a set of gloves on. I wish they could of raised it or had a side accessed key which is something i am trying to wrap my brain around and design for myself
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:56 AM   #70309
NordieBoy
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I got an Acewell but it has the same bolts out the back for mounting...

I just drilled a couple of holes in the existing speedo mount...

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsp...ing/index.html

Ran the pickup cable down inside the fork boot.




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Old 10-22-2012, 02:51 AM   #70310
kezzajohnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPCLI-Jim View Post
My only issue with the current design like the DR Vapor setup is the difficulty getting to the key, if you have a set of gloves on. I wish they could of raised it or had a side accessed key which is something i am trying to wrap my brain around and design for myself
Not if you make a bracket to keep it at a similar height to the stock speedo.



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Old 10-22-2012, 06:10 AM   #70311
Slideways#96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Forks from a donor bike (re-sprung and valved for the weight) and a fully-adjustable shock with appropriate spring. Cogent is usually highly recommended for DR shocks. I'd like to have a remote preload adjuster too.

Note: I'm not riding a 350-400lb adv-thumper like a MX/XC racebike. I'm riding at an exploratory/fun pace when offroad. If I wanted to skim whoops and clear triples, I'd be on a 300lb-or-lighter bike.The DR's thin-wall frame isn't designed to take that kind of abuse with a load of luggage anyway. If I can get 3-4' of air and hit 6-12" ruts without bottoming/wallowing, I call it good enough.
Kommando,

I'm looking for a good set up for rocks. I've got a 300 xcw that will basically glide through rocky sections, ie streambeds and rock strewn roads. The Dr is understandably a different animal altogether however she is a handful in this stuff. Looking to smooth out the ride in these instances. She has eibach springs and is set up for my weight (petite 210 w/gear) but I'm thinking there has to be additional mods I can make to the big girl.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:45 AM   #70312
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Kommando,

I'm looking for a good set up for rocks. I've got a 300 xcw that will basically glide through rocky sections, ie streambeds and rock strewn roads. The Dr is understandably a different animal altogether however she is a handful in this stuff. Looking to smooth out the ride in these instances. She has eibach springs and is set up for my weight (petite 210 w/gear) but I'm thinking there has to be additional mods I can make to the big girl.
The Racetech rear shock assembly is a OEM replacement with significant improvements. It's stronger, has a Gold Valve kit and rebound adjustment. It's also made, same as the OE, so it can be put in the higher or lower height positions. If you already have the correct spring for your weight, it's $399 (or less through other vendors).

The emulators for the front forks "emulate" a more expensive offroad cartridge fork and are roughly ~$169 if you already have the springs you need for your weight.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:58 AM   #70313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I got an Acewell...
Ran the pickup cable down inside the fork boot.
Brilliant!
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:03 AM   #70314
Pike Bishop
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Dr650 batteries ... 50% more power for $8.79

OK, a few days ago in this thread I posted about doing research on replacement batteries for the DR650.

In my last post, I think I mentioned that I had decided, for my next battery, to use a Yuasa YTZ14S which is the same size as the OEM battery, except 3/16" taller (someone said they still fit and after opening up my bike, I bet they do) ... but the YTZ14S stores almost 50% more energy than the stock battery (11.5 Ah versus 8 Ah).

Anyway, I had saved an ebay bookmark where they were selling these batteries, and while cleaning up my bookmarks I looked at the ebay ad again, and THEY'RE NOW SELLING THESE BATTERIES FOR $8.79 WITH FREE SHIPPING!

SCORE!

If you're in the market for a new battery for your DR, take a look! For less than $9 delivered, how can you go wrong?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YTZ14S-B...-/190737356832

Edited to Add: On second look, they appear to be knockoffs, not Yuasa batteries, but still the ebay merchant has almost 82000 points with 99.6% positive feedback...I have no financial relationship with them, and have my fingers crossed...

Pike Bishop screwed with this post 10-22-2012 at 09:08 AM
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:09 AM   #70315
FlowBee
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Anybody here use a short Suzuki sidestand with a standard height suspension bike? Is the shorter sidestand 1.5" shorter like the shortened suspension mod it is meant for? Is it too short? I wasn't able to answer my question by searching this thread.

My loaded up DR is precariously close to vertical, even with the rear preload cranked up a bit. I may just take the sidestand down to the local muffler shop to see if they can take an inch offf the bottom and re-weld a new pad on the bottom. I just thought I'd ask here first in case I just want to throw my credit card at the problem instead...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:13 AM   #70316
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Not if you make a bracket to keep it at a similar height to the stock speedo.



That is how I did mine. Easy to see and function. With the windscreen on it is a little harder to get to due to the screen arms.

I went overkill on my bracket.... 1/4" thick 6061 alumn. Was the thinnest I had at the time and I wanted to get it done. I think I could lift the front of the bike with my vapor mount!
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:15 AM   #70317
B.E. Coyote
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ordered one, hope it works out better than my last ebay battery
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:24 AM   #70318
Pike Bishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Anybody here use a short Suzuki sidestand with a standard height suspension bike? Is the shorter sidestand 1.5" shorter like the shortened suspension mod it is meant for? Is it too short? I wasn't able to answer my question by searching this thread.

My loaded up DR is precariously close to vertical, even with the rear preload cranked up a bit. I may just take the sidestand down to the local muffler shop to see if they can take an inch offf the bottom and re-weld a new pad on the bottom. I just thought I'd ask here first in case I just want to throw my credit card at the problem instead...
Any decent welder who owns a hacksaw should be able to take an inch out of the middle and reweld it in about 10 minutes flat.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:41 AM   #70319
ER70S-2
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Cut it off at the bottom, just above the foot gusset. That way there's no length below the weld to 'lever' against the weld. And then there's no need to fit an inner sleeve either.

The stock kick stand has a reinforcement at the top, by the pivot. That's where the force is focused. Think about using a crescent wrench to bend an edge on something. The force is at the jaw, not where your hand is.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:06 AM   #70320
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Kommando,

I'm looking for a good set up for rocks. I've got a 300 xcw that will basically glide through rocky sections, ie streambeds and rock strewn roads. The Dr is understandably a different animal altogether however she is a handful in this stuff. Looking to smooth out the ride in these instances. She has eibach springs and is set up for my weight (petite 210 w/gear) but I'm thinking there has to be additional mods I can make to the big girl.
I don't ride that kind of terrain much, but we have ruts around here that seem to deflect lighter bikes with stiff suspension more than the relatively-soft and heavy DR that just kind of plows through crud. Mine feels just a bit stiff at low speeds with Eibachs for similar weight and with heavier fork/shock oil. I'm thinking that slightly-softer springs and lighter oil, with adjustable damping (where the DR lacks), would work better than heavy springs with no damping adjustment, unless you're moving pretty good. When I'm moving faster than the bottom of 2nd, mine feels pretty plush through most ruts and bumps.

Did you try the soft progressive stock springs in this stuff before swapping to the Eibachs? With different preload?They'd probably be a bit too soft with stock damping, but it might give you a better idea of which direction to go with spring-rates.
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