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Old 10-22-2012, 03:25 PM   #70336
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Took my rear wheel off today and dismantled it. Im sending my hub to warp 9 to be fitted with a 17x4.25 rim.

I realized that inside the hub there are the 2 bearings, 1 on each side, and a hollow cylinder between them. That hollow cylinder is able to move freely around in the hub. Is this okay? It doesn't have too much play, and the bearings and dust covers are fine.

No. The disc side bearing should sit tight in the hub, up against the lip, and the other side should clamp the inner spacer/tube. It shouldn't be floating about.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:30 PM   #70337
Slideways#96
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
I don't ride that kind of terrain much, but we have ruts around here that seem to deflect lighter bikes with stiff suspension more than the relatively-soft and heavy DR that just kind of plows through crud. Mine feels just a bit stiff at low speeds with Eibachs for similar weight and with heavier fork/shock oil. I'm thinking that slightly-softer springs and lighter oil, with adjustable damping (where the DR lacks), would work better than heavy springs with no damping adjustment, unless you're moving pretty good. When I'm moving faster than the bottom of 2nd, mine feels pretty plush through most ruts and bumps.

Did you try the soft progressive stock springs in this stuff before swapping to the Eibachs? With different preload?They'd probably be a bit too soft with stock damping, but it might give you a better idea of which direction to go with spring-rates.
Haven't tried the soft progressive springs. I'm real curious now about swapping out forks with an rm though have research to do on changes to frame geometry and effects on rideability...

Thanks all for the many replies, what a great site!
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:52 PM   #70338
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhL0aTeR View Post
I spent an hour thinking about getting the vapor before i ordered the cable last week, so I'm already halfway there.... Lol. Honestly,i couldn't find a decent pic of a vapor installed to give me a good idea of what it would look like.
For about the same amount of money as a Vapor, you can install a GPS unit and have almost all the functionality of a Vapor, plus mapping functions.

A 5" car GPS unit fits perfectly in the space vacated by the stock speedo:

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Old 10-22-2012, 03:56 PM   #70339
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
I'm real curious now about swapping out forks with an rm though have research to do on changes to frame geometry and effects on rideability...
Extensive discussion about the various fork options on DRriders, with potential changes in geometry noted.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:28 PM   #70340
ndthl
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Wicked when does the bottom end usually need attention?

Hi,

I am considering buying a 1997 Dr650 with 67,000km ( 41631.8698799 miles ) on the clock.

When do the bottom end bearings usually need replacing? I spoke to the mechanic this morning who said you'd want to look at the gearbox as well if you did the bottom end and this would end up being $AU1000+.

Do Dr650s have a reputation for bottom end issues at around 60-70,000km?

The bike leaked oil in the past so the rings were done. Apparently it's fine now and did a trip across Australia and back no dramas last year.

Wil
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:09 PM   #70341
sacbandit
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i have just over 50,ooo miles on my dr 650. still kicking,
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:30 PM   #70342
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
You could adjust the pilot screw via the following method:

Start the engine and warm it up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Report back with the setting.

In order to determine whether, as Rumlover suggested, the mixture was lean before the tape was applied and is only now rich, you could gradually remove more and more tape, testing after each change. If he is right, there will be a sweet spot where it runs better than it does now as well as how it ran un-taped. If the problem gradually gets better as you untape, but never gets better at any stage than before it was taped or now, then you started out too rich and taping only made it richer.

Regards,

Derek
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
gonna remove it all tomorrow and go from there.
seen today I have a bent lip on my rim.
having not ridden many DR's I dont have much to compare it to but in 5th when I accelerate there is alot of vibrarion/ noise coming through my footpegs, doesn't feel smooth. Is this a normal thing?
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:28 PM   #70343
GaThumper
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If you're considering the Procycle seat, I just posted one in the Flea Market. Thought I'd give a heads up here to the DR650 thread.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post19878796
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:34 PM   #70344
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
You don't need to enlarge the valve stem hole; NAPA P/N 90-426 fits in the existing hole.

Not a concern -- at home I use a bicycle pump to seat the bead and inflate the tyre. On the road I carry an electric pump, so if I get a flat it's going to be easier than the procedure I use at home.

BTW, the whole point of going tubeless is that in case of a flat your tyres will deflate very slowly, therefore the prospect of a tubeless tyre rim getting off the safety bead is very remote.
I'm assuming you're using your stock 17" DID rim that comes with the DR650? Have you had any experience running a TKC80 or T63 knobby?
How about 50/50 tires like Mefo's or other Euro tires? Are you running a tubeliss rim up front as well or only on the rear? (Woody recommends doing rear only)

I must have really screwed up my sealing job. I'll have to read that thread and see if I can salvage what I did. Thanks for the feedback and links.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:00 PM   #70345
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
No. The disc side bearing should sit tight in the hub, up against the lip, and the other side should clamp the inner spacer/tube. It shouldn't be floating about.
with the wheel off the bike (and thus an untorqued bearing/spacer/rim assy)
i've noticed i can put my finger into the inner spacer and move it around some.
i can push one side up or down a small bit.

if it can be pushed back and forth from side of the hub to side of the hub then yes something is not correct, but mine is not locked in there solidly when the wheel is off.

assuming there is no damage to the hub (so the bearing sit properly per spec) and there in no dirt and such in the hub cavity (so the bearing would not fully seat properly), i'd say when the full assy is properly torqued everything comes together just as it should. the axel will center spacer upon assy, so it has to sit correct.

this spacer of course supports the bearings so they have no lateral forces in play, the inner bearing lips are supported from one end to the other. without this spacer, the bearing would fail inwards.

i use 73 ftlbs of torque on the rear axel nut. those with older DRs can upgrade to a new cotter-pinless fuji-nut from Procycle so you torque it and go.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:39 PM   #70346
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
Anybody here use a short Suzuki sidestand with a standard height suspension bike? Is the shorter sidestand 1.5" shorter like the shortened suspension mod it is meant for? Is it too short? I wasn't able to answer my question by searching this thread.

My loaded up DR is precariously close to vertical, even with the rear preload cranked up a bit. I may just take the sidestand down to the local muffler shop to see if they can take an inch offf the bottom and re-weld a new pad on the bottom. I just thought I'd ask here first in case I just want to throw my credit card at the problem instead...

Thanks in advance.
I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:52 PM   #70347
Magnum Noel
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Location: Wellington NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
For about the same amount of money as a Vapor, you can install a GPS unit and have almost all the functionality of a Vapor, plus mapping functions.

A 5" car GPS unit fits perfectly in the space vacated by the stock speedo:

Is that car GPS waterproof?
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:07 AM   #70348
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm assuming you're using your stock 17" DID rim that comes with the DR650? Have you had any experience running a TKC80 or T63 knobby?
How about 50/50 tires like Mefo's or other Euro tires? Are you running a tubeliss rim up front as well or only on the rear? (Woody recommends doing rear only)
Yes, stock rims both front and rear. I had both rims checked and spokes tightened professionally before I embarked on my wheel-sealing mission.

Tubeless conversion on the front too. Yes, I've read the objections about going tubeless on a wheel without a safety bead, but I do not share these concerns: on one hand, one of the main advantages of tubeless tyres is the fact that they deflate very slowly, so the chance of the tyre suddenly losing all pressure, collapsing on the rim, and you losing control of the bike, is highly improbable; and on the other hand, how is a tube going to prevent the above scenario? In fact, this is far more likely to happen to a tubed tyre.

I did the conversion this last spring, so I've only had the chance to use the Shinko 705. But they're almost worn now, so I will be trying the Shinko 700 soon. After that I'll try the Shinko 244.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:28 AM   #70349
Born-to-ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I've been running a short stand on my full height DR for 6 years now. I wouldn't go back. Ever.
Did you shorten it yourself?? Thinking of cutting the foot of mine, shortening it by 20mm and reweld the foot back on. Or did you buy one?
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:34 AM   #70350
Born-to-ride
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I fitted a FCR to the DR and had a few issues with the throttle cable. Sorted that out and the bike runs like a dream. Fuel economy around 17km/l consistantly regardless of how much throttle I use or terrain I conquer. Only issue is that the bike is still popping when I close the throttle and the beast does not idle when cold. Any advise out there, or should I just ride and enjoy?!?!
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