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Old 10-23-2012, 04:52 AM   #70351
phreakingeek
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short stand

My bike is stock height with the procycle stiffer springs front and back. One of my riding buddies bought their shortened stand and in a moment of weakness sold it to me (he was in-between DR's at the time). So i have the procycle 1.5" shortened stand and it's perfect for the stock height. I have fully loaded dirtbagz and a top box...all in all, at least 50lbs of junk in addition to my svelte 230lb ass and my stand is rock solid. Only time i worry is if i'm in soft wet dirt...then it'll sink in. I just grab a rock or branch to put under it if it looks like it's going to sink in.

When my buddy bought a new 2012 DR and lowered it using the suzuki stock lowering options, his stand was way too tall and he cut off the foot about 3" up. Once he was sure that the height was ok, i took the stock stand and cut out about 2" from the tube and welded the foot back on. I used the cut out section inside the tubes to give it some additional strength. I cut it lengthwise so that i could roll the tube small enough in diameter so that i could hammer it inside the stand. Once welded, it's probably stronger at that joint than the rest of the tube. So far, he's used it for 1000's of miles and hasn't had any trouble with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlowBee View Post
My DR fully loaded pushes the limits of the OEM sidestand. I adjusted the rear preload but still feel it's too tall and ready to flop over on the right.

How much shorter is the DR650 OEM short sidestand compared to the OEM normal standstand? Would it work for heavily loaded DR650s ?

Thanks.
FB
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:42 AM   #70352
Zapp22
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Laugh

this bike could DEFINITELY benefit from one of my turnsignal relo parts..

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
For about the same amount of money as a Vapor, you can install a GPS unit and have almost all the functionality of a Vapor, plus mapping functions.

A 5" car GPS unit fits perfectly in the space vacated by the stock speedo:

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Old 10-23-2012, 08:15 AM   #70353
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
with the wheel off the bike (and thus an untorqued bearing/spacer/rim assy)
i've noticed i can put my finger into the inner spacer and move it around some.
i can push one side up or down a small bit.

if it can be pushed back and forth from side of the hub to side of the hub then yes something is not correct, but mine is not locked in there solidly when the wheel is off.

assuming there is no damage to the hub (so the bearing sit properly per spec) and there in no dirt and such in the hub cavity (so the bearing would not fully seat properly), i'd say when the full assy is properly torqued everything comes together just as it should. the axel will center spacer upon assy, so it has to sit correct.

this spacer of course supports the bearings so they have no lateral forces in play, the inner bearing lips are supported from one end to the other. without this spacer, the bearing would fail inwards.

i use 73 ftlbs of torque on the rear axel nut. those with older DRs can upgrade to a new cotter-pinless fuji-nut from Procycle so you torque it and go.
This is my exact situation... So no worries then. No dr action for me for a month... My wheel is on its way to warp 9
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:39 AM   #70354
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Is that car GPS waterproof?
The cheaper Garmin Nuvi's are not waterproof but the 500/550 models are and they sell for about $265- and also have a built in battery good for several hours so they can be used for bicycling, walking, geocaching, etc...

victor441 screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 10:55 AM
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:35 AM   #70355
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
gonna remove it all tomorrow and go from there.
seen today I have a bent lip on my rim.
having not ridden many DR's I dont have much to compare it to but in 5th when I accelerate there is alot of vibrarion/ noise coming through my footpegs, doesn't feel smooth. Is this a normal thing?
Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Grrrrrr!
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #70356
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philp38 View Post
The Pro Cycle Jet Kit and drilled slide also worked great on my 2009.
Same here.

I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.

It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #70357
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.
In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, if at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 01:36 PM
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:11 AM   #70358
isaac004
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Rough gearbox

Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:16 AM   #70359
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I've read write-ups of the whole Dyno-jet needle Pro Cycle jet kit thing being wrong for DR650's... but then my bike ran so much better with the changes that I'm just not sure what those people were talking about.
This is what we were talking about:



The CO trace is nowhere near flat, varying between extremes of 2.6 (a little too lean) and 9.5% (quite a bit too rich as rich misfires usually begin in the 10-12.5% range). The CO should be in the range of 3-5%, i.e. if the CO varied between extremes of 3 and 5% throughout the trace, I would call that acceptable.
Quote:
It may not be perfect, but it certainly makes the bike run as a stock bike should.
"May not be perfect" is an understatement. Are you saying that a stock CV carbureted engine should have mixture strengths that vary this wildly?

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 10-23-2012 at 11:08 AM
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #70360
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Rode in to work this morning, first tim i rode it in the cool morning temps and it ran horrible. Started fine, idled fine but bogged down a bunch under a load.
Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:40 AM   #70361
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the tim spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:08 AM   #70362
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Is that car GPS waterproof?
If by "waterproof" you mean surviving underwater, no -- but then again, the bike as a whole won't survive that either.

A light sprinkling? Sure, no problem.

A torrential downpour? Probably not, but I wouldn't know because I do not ride in the rain.

If one is overly concerned about rain though, weatherproofing is just a zip lock bag away.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:10 AM   #70363
isaac004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This isn't terminal, but don't let it happen any more.

That grinding you hear is the shift dogs trying to get in their slots. It's grinding off the corners of the dogs, a bad thing. The solution is to "stomp: it (not acturally stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the tim spent grinding).

Shifting slowly and dealing with a horribly clattering shift lever is doing permanent damage and the next symptom will be jumping out of gear. (I copied your wording because it's quite accurate. )

Change your oil and get a magnetic drain plug (for long term protection)..
Hmm, I'll change the oil tonight and install the magnetic drain plug I just bought a few weeks ago. I suppose I should fix the screw issue on the neutral switch too, since I don't know if the previous owner ever did that.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #70364
johnkol
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Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
this bike could DEFINITELY benefit from one of my turnsignal relo parts..
Why would one need to relocate the turn signals on a stock bike?
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:25 AM   #70365
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Why would one need to relocate the turn signals on a stock bike?
He meant turn signal/neutral light indicator. His bracket places them in a better location to be seen.
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