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Old 10-23-2012, 01:24 PM   #70351
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 703
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker
Removed half the tape on the airbox and the bike ran better, still surges on top and bogs down every time I let off the clutch when shifting through the gears but pulls strong now in the midrange.

In order to be able to assign circuits to the symptoms, they have to be isolated primarily by throttle position and secondarily by rpm, it at all. What throttle position is meant by "midrange"? Is wide open throttle meant by "top"?

Regards,

Derek
By on top I meant freeway speed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you saying that the bike runs worse with all of the tape removed when the air temp is lower?

Regards,

Derek
I left the airbox half taped last night and rode it this morning half taped and the cool temps made it much worse.
Its really hard to put a bead on because this afternoon it was just as bad as this morning and nothing changed since yesterday when it was better...
still backfires, still bogs and makes funny noises.
Ok I am officially going crazy..........................
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:58 PM   #70352
K_N_Fodder
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WTB - OEM Turn Signal Cluster

Gents -

Drop me a PM if you happen to have a working OEM DR turn signal cluster from the current generation you want to make a few bucks on. Mine's croaked... I'd go aftermarket Highway Dirtbikes or something but I'm going to sell it so will stick with stock.

Located in Bend, Oregon. Getting a little snowy here already...


Thanks!
Justin
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:15 PM   #70353
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit.
Yes, I have shifting problems too, but not with the first two gears. My main problem is 2 --> 3, and 3 --> 4, where I have to make multiple attempts to engage the next gear, but I also have difficulties downshifting all gears at once (as when you come up on a stoplight). None of this happens when the engine is cold, and there hasn't been any significant change in the time I have had the bike (got it with 5,500 miles, it now has 12,500).

I don't have a solution for it, but oil seems to make a difference: I switched from Shell Rotella to Mobil 1 synthetic and things have improved slightly.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:15 PM   #70354
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you saying that a stock CV carbureted engine should have mixture strengths that vary this wildly?
I think what Mambo Dave was saying is the bike runs much better and he's happy with the results
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:20 PM   #70355
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
Check your shift lever. Make certain it's fitting tight on the shaft, no slop. In my experience they loosen up over time/use and can effect shifting. Also make certain of the position of the shifter. Sometimes it can be sitting TOO CLOSE to the case, which interferes with shifting action. If it can touch the case, not good. Needs a gap.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:24 PM   #70356
TRAVELGUY
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Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
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Seems like you need to adjust your clutch!!

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Anyone ever have any issues with a rough shifting gear box? My 2006 has around 11k-12k miles on the clock. When I shift from N to 1 or N to 2, from a stop at a normal idle speed, I feel the gears grinding quite a bit. I either have to "stomp" it (not actually stomp, but make the shift very fast to reduce the time spent grinding), or deal with a horribly clattering shift lever if I shift slowly. Maybe a few thousand miles ago it ever so slightly grinded, but it seems that it's getting worse.

Any ideas?
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:26 PM   #70357
TRAVELGUY
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I just installed one of his brackets that relocate the "Dash LIghts". His bracket is a good change.

Travel
Guy


Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
He meant turn signal/neutral light indicator. His bracket places them in a better location to be seen.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:03 PM   #70358
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Seems like you need to adjust your clutch!!

TravelGuy
+1

If your clutch is dragging it wont let the syncros slow down enough to engage- causing grinding. Higher gears always seem to mesh easier. I often don't even use the clutch when up shifting 3-4-5 just cruising around.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:18 PM   #70359
NewDR650seOwner
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Cry 2007 Dr650 fork width???

I can't seem to find this measurement. Can someone throw me a bone?
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:20 PM   #70360
NewDR650seOwner
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2007 Dr650Se fork width???

Its an SE, if that makes a difference.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:31 PM   #70361
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewDR650seOwner View Post
I can't seem to find this measurement. Can someone throw me a bone?
Do you want to know the distance between the forks? Center to center? Or diameter?
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:43 PM   #70362
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
+1

If your clutch is dragging it wont let the syncros slow down enough to engage- causing grinding. Higher gears always seem to mesh easier. I often don't even use the clutch when up shifting 3-4-5 just cruising around.
Synchros, what synchros?

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Old 10-23-2012, 04:16 PM   #70363
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
By on top I meant freeway speed.
For diagnostic purposes, the road speed is mostly irrelevant. The throttle should be open less than 1/4 for steady speed freeway cruising. To be sure, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. With the help of the marks, determine precisely during what throttle opening(s) it misbehaves. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Ideally the fundamentals should be taken care of first. Make sure the slide, emulsion tube, and slide are not worn out. Replace the slide if it has been drilled. The float needle should be replaced if there is evidence of a witness line from seat contact evident on the rubber conical tip of the needle under magnification. Replace any rubber parts that have shrunken, deformed, hardened, cracked or otherwise been damaged. Set the float height to 14.7 mm with a float height setting tool. Replace the pilot jet for good measure. Install an adjustable aluminum jet needle with a reasonable profile. Reinstall the now missing white plastic needle spacer. Adjust the idle mixture and speed.

After that, tuning should be done from the top down, i.e. main jet for wide open throttle first, followed by clip position for 1/4 opening, followed by pilot jet size for 1/8 and 1/16 openings.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:17 PM   #70364
NewDR650seOwner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Do you want to know the distance between the forks? Center to center? Or diameter?
I would like to know width of a single fork, so I guess diameter. Getting some clip ons.
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:22 PM   #70365
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Cool2 Carb parts and tuning

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
For diagnostic purposes, the road speed is mostly irrelevant. The throttle should be open less than 1/4 for steady speed freeway cruising. (Depending on your gearing of course as well as the speed of traffic on your freeway... ) To be sure, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. With the help of the marks, determine precisely during what throttle opening(s) it misbehaves. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Ideally the fundamentals should be taken care of first. Make sure the slide, emulsion tube, and slide are not worn out. Replace the slide if it has been drilled. (Or just put a drop of silicone to seal it, or leave the extra hole in it like the rest of us, even though Derek says it will shorten the life of other parts) The float needle should be replaced if there is evidence of a witness line from seat contact evident on the rubber conical tip of the needle under magnification. Replace any rubber parts that have shrunken, deformed, hardened, cracked or otherwise been damaged. Set the float height to 14.7 mm with a float height setting tool. (What!? You don't have one??? Neither do most of us) Replace the pilot jet for good measure. Install an adjustable aluminum jet needle with a reasonable profile. (Make sure it is reasonable. Try asking it political questions) Reinstall the now missing white plastic needle spacer. Adjust the idle mixture and speed. (Derek didn't mention that he stocks and sells all the parts for your carby. He is so modest)

After that, tuning should be done from the top down, i.e. main jet for wide open throttle first, followed by clip position for 1/4 opening, followed by pilot jet size for 1/8 and 1/16 openings.

Regards,

Derek
You got all that? Good.
Excellent advice from a tuner who has evidently tuned hundreds of DR's. Well, dozens at least. Ok, maybe a few?
Has anyone on here had Derek tune their bike?
If you live close to his shop it could be fun to have him tune it up.
Or perhaps send him your carb for a rebuild with new parts?
Might be less expensive to just get a new pumper carb though, I don't know.

Most of us are very happy with how our bikes run with a simple jet kit from Procycle.
However, if you carb has problems, like worn parts as Derek mentioned, nothing will work well until those parts are replaced.
I am sure Derek can help you determine what, if any parts are in need of replacement. Give him a call.

It would be very interesting, I mean VERY INTERESTING if someone would take their DR to Derek and dyno it before and after having him tune it.

The best would be if it had a Procycle jet kit in it and the owner believed it to be running very well.
And how it feels to ride afterwards. Hmmmmmm,...

Any takers? Purely in the name of research of course.
A before and after dyno chart would be very nice to see, eh?
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